Jump to content
KetoSoi

2009 R1200RT Fuel Strip Installation?

Recommended Posts

KetoSoi

Hi Guys... could use a little guidance....

I have all the tupperware off my bike, doing some cleaning and other maintenance items. During my misc activities, I pulled up the orange filler-neck slightly out of the tank, not realizing the strip was hanging off of it :4607:

If I read the diagrams correctly, and looking at pics of the strip, there appears to be a "clip" at the bottom end of it, that looks like its supposed to slide "into place" in something down in the tank to hold it into place. Is that the case? Or does it just kind of "hang down there"?

 

Thanks for any info/help :)

 

 

K

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dirtrider
10 hours ago, KetoSoi said:

Hi Guys... could use a little guidance....

I have all the tupperware off my bike, doing some cleaning and other maintenance items. During my misc activities, I pulled up the orange filler-neck slightly out of the tank, not realizing the strip was hanging off of it :4607:

If I read the diagrams correctly, and looking at pics of the strip, there appears to be a "clip" at the bottom end of it, that looks like its supposed to slide "into place" in something down in the tank to hold it into place. Is that the case? Or does it just kind of "hang down there"?

 

Thanks for any info/help :)

 

 

K

 

 

Morning  KetoSoi

 

There is guide molded into the bottom of the tank that the lower end of the fuel strip (plastic backing) goes into.

 

 

fuel strip guide 1200RT.JPG

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
KetoSoi
4 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

 

Morning  KetoSoi

 

There is guide molded into the bottom of the tank that the lower end of the fuel strip (plastic backing) goes into.

 

 

fuel strip guide 1200RT.JPG

 

Thanks DR :)

 

How easily does the strip land in that guide when positioned in from the top? Or does the fuel-pump assembly need to come out in order to guide the strip into place?

 

 

K

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dirtrider
Just now, KetoSoi said:

 

Thanks DR :)

 

How easily does the strip land in that guide when positioned in from the top? Or does the fuel-pump assembly need to come out in order to guide the strip into place?

 

 

K

 

 

Afternoon  KetoSoi

 

You know 'that' is a darn good question.

 

I have had a number of fuel strips out, then new one back in, on the 1200 bikes but I haven't ever just pulled the same strip up then back down through the top filler assembly hole.

 

The fuel strip pig tail is plugged into the bottom of the fuel pump assembly so I always remove the fuel pump assembly first as I need to unplug the fuel strip there anyhow then reach down in through the fuel pump hole & make sure the new fuel strip is full seated.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
KetoSoi
2 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

 

 

Afternoon  KetoSoi

 

You know 'that' is a darn good question.

 

I have had a number of fuel strips out, then new one back in, on the 1200 bikes but I haven't ever just pulled the same strip up then back down through the top filler assembly hole.

 

The fuel strip pig tail is plugged into the bottom of the fuel pump assembly so I always remove the fuel pump assembly first as I need to unplug the fuel strip there anyhow then reach down in through the fuel pump hole & make sure the new fuel strip is full seated.

 

Hmmm, ok, well, out it comes then! lol.... Luckily I have a type of spanner that will work on the assembly.

 

The 2 fuel lines look like they have typical retaining clips. Those pull-out, not push-in, correct? Any other tips/tricks/caveats I should be aware of?

 

 

K

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dirtrider
6 minutes ago, KetoSoi said:

 

Hmmm, ok, well, out it comes then! lol.... Luckily I have a type of spanner that will work on the assembly.

 

The 2 fuel lines look like they have typical retaining clips. Those pull-out, not push-in, correct? Any other tips/tricks/caveats I should be aware of?

 

 

K

 

 

On fuel line quick disconnects always try pushing the trigger in first, if the trigger will move in a notable amount then that is how they come apart. If you can't push the trigger in then carefully look into sliding the trigger out to remove.

 

On your 1200 the triggers push in to remove, (Caution: always hold the trigger all the way in during complete removal or complete assembly) --If you don't hold the trigger all the way in then you can nick the sealing "O" ring during assembly or disassembly.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
KetoSoi
12 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

 

 

On fuel line quick disconnects always try pushing the trigger in first, if the trigger will move in a notable amount then that is how they come apart. If you can't push the trigger in then carefully look into sliding the trigger out to remove.

 

On your 1200 the triggers push in to remove, (Caution: always hold the trigger all the way in during complete removal or complete assembly) --If you don't hold the trigger all the way in then you can nick the sealing "O" ring during assembly or disassembly.

 

Thanks again DR, good info :) I'll give it a whirl this evening, and let everyone know what I find :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
KetoSoi

Well, not being able to help myself, going into the office late, lol...

 

Got all the bits disconnected and the ring off. Is there a trick to pulling the pump assembly out? I gave it a bit of a tug, but its not moving. Erring on side of caution, better to ask before I get too ham-fisted with it, lol.

 

 

K

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dirtrider
28 minutes ago, KetoSoi said:

Well, not being able to help myself, going into the office late, lol...

 

Got all the bits disconnected and the ring off. Is there a trick to pulling the pump assembly out? I gave it a bit of a tug, but its not moving. Erring on side of caution, better to ask before I get too ham-fisted with it, lol.

 

 

K

 

Afternoon  KetoSoi

 

After the ring is remove the pump assembly should just pull out (sometimes with a bit of force required)

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bimmers

Not trying to hijack but related question;

on the quick connect barbs the hose clamp is a BMW special one (oetker?) what is the best way of opening it? And then closing /tightening a new one when the male piece is being replaced?

I assume opening has to be done with a screwdriver or such to opeen the crimp, while closing could be done with a pair of "Hoof" pliers like the ones one can pull up nails with. 

Hope im not totally of base.

Hans 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dirtrider
20 minutes ago, bimmers said:

Not trying to hijack but related question;

on the quick connect barbs the hose clamp is a BMW special one (oetker?) what is the best way of opening it? And then closing /tightening a new one when the male piece is being replaced?

I assume opening has to be done with a screwdriver or such to opeen the crimp, while closing could be done with a pair of "Hoof" pliers like the ones one can pull up nails with. 

Hope im not totally of base.

Hans 

 

Evening Hans

 

This is hijacking as it is taking this thread from the original posters issue to your issue.

 

Quick answer with no further discussion on this thread due to hijacking concern--

 

You can cut the clamp off with large side cutters, use a Dremel & thin cutting wheel to cut the clamp off, you can open it with a screwdriver  (or 2 small screwdrivers fighting each other)  but that can damage the hose as well as damage the fitting under the hose. Dremel works good but makes a mess.

 

As for installing a new clamp-- some do use things like side cutters, tile nippers, hoof pliers, etc  BUT none of those tighten the clamp correctly as they can allow the clamps' crimping  loop to balloon up to a round top so the clamp isn't as tight & won't stay as tight as using the proper tool.

 

Proper tool  pinches the loop correctly to keep it tight & straight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
KetoSoi
8 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

Afternoon  KetoSoi

 

After the ring is remove the pump assembly should just pull out (sometimes with a bit of force required)

 

Thanks. Took quite a bit of careful tugging to get it out, but it eventually got there, lol.

 

On my 09 RT, theres not a 'guide' as shown in the pic you provided DR. Instead, there is simply a 'dimple' in the bottom of the tank that the strip tucks itself into (see attached pic).

 

My strip was not in place, so lesson learned, lol. It may be possible to slide it in place without removing the pump, but ya cant see past the filler neck, so its an approximated shot in the dark if its in or not.

 

The pump assembly is a little tough to get back in when the seal is in place on the tank. Can it be lightly lubed with anything safely?

 

 

K

09_RT_Tank_Strip.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
KetoSoi

My gawd, this gasket is driving me crazy....

 

After 2 hours of screwing with it I still havent been able to get it to seat properly. I thought I had it, but it still had a small leak. Either that, or I havent tightened in down enough. Just how tight should the ring be for this thing?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dirtrider
4 hours ago, KetoSoi said:

My gawd, this gasket is driving me crazy....

 

After 2 hours of screwing with it I still havent been able to get it to seat properly. I thought I had it, but it still had a small leak. Either that, or I havent tightened in down enough. Just how tight should the ring be for this thing?

 

Morning  KetoSoi

 

You can lightly lubricate the gasket if needed, that upper sealing gasket is exposed to gasoline  &  E-10 so not a lot of petroleum products should hurt it,  just don't use anything with silicone in it as silicone in the fuel system (even a very slight amount) can damage the o2 sensors.  For a quick install you might try WD-40 as that mostly evaporates in a short time. Or use a very small amount of tire mounting lube.

 

Also, make sure the pump assemble isn't rotating as you tighten the retaining ring (I haven't had a problem with this but there is a warning in the service manual about the possibility of pump assembly rotating)

 

You might need to leave that gasket out in the sun for while to boil out the hydrocarbons as some will swell up slightly due to gasoline exposure.  Allow it cool off before installing.

 

The BMW manual shows 35 nm for that retaining ring but I haven't ever torqued one, I just get it tight.

 

Are you sure that your leak is from the gasket? There was a BMW recall on the 1200 fuel pump assembly as the plastic boss was cracking where the high pressure fuel line fitting was screwed in (recall involved adding a metal clamping ring around the boss  but those didn't always prevent leakage so on the leakers (or on pump assemblies with large cracks)  BMW replaced the entire fuel pump assembly.

 

 

 

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
KetoSoi
4 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

Morning  KetoSoi

 

You can lightly lubricate the gasket if needed, that upper sealing gasket is exposed to gasoline  &  E-10 so not a lot of petroleum products should hurt it,  just don't use anything with silicone in it as silicone in the fuel system (even a very slight amount) can damage the o2 sensors.  For a quick install you might try WD-40 as that mostly evaporates in a short time. Or use a very small amount of tire mounting lube.

 

Also, make sure the pump assemble isn't rotating as you tighten the retaining ring (I haven't had a problem with this but there is a warning in the service manual about the possibility of pump assembly rotating)

 

You might need to leave that gasket out in the sun for while to boil out the hydrocarbons as some will swell up slightly due to gasoline exposure.  Allow it cool off before installing.

 

The BMW manual shows 35 nm for that retaining ring but I haven't ever torqued one, I just get it tight.

 

Are you sure that your leak is from the gasket? There was a BMW recall on the 1200 fuel pump assembly as the plastic boss was cracking where the high pressure fuel line fitting was screwed in (recall involved adding a metal clamping ring around the boss  but those didn't always prevent leakage so on the leakers (or on pump assemblies with large cracks)  BMW replaced the entire fuel pump assembly.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks DR, I will try again this Morning. The recall was done right after I received the notice. The fuel is definitely not coming from there fuel-line fitting. Its just seeping out of the gasket under the ring somewhere.

 

 

K

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dirtrider
1 minute ago, KetoSoi said:

 

Thanks DR, I will try again this Morning. The recall was done right after I received the notice. The fuel is definitely not coming from there fuel-line fitting. Its just seeping out of the gasket under the ring somewhere.

 

 

K

 

Afternoon  KetoSoi

 

Personally I have had very little problem with that gasket area leaking, with the problems you had getting it pulled apart I think I would just install a fresh new supple gasket just to be sure that you don't have issues later. (you sure don't want to put all the plastics back on then find fuel seeps a couple of weeks  later).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
KetoSoi
20 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

 

Afternoon  KetoSoi

 

Personally I have had very little problem with that gasket area leaking, with the problems you had getting it pulled apart I think I would just install a fresh new supple gasket just to be sure that you don't have issues later. (you sure don't want to put all the plastics back on then find fuel seeps a couple of weeks  later).

 

The gasket seems pretty new, very soft/supple, no nicks or defects that I can find. I have it baking in the sun right now. Biggest problem I had was getting the gasket to stay uniform when pushing the pump in. It would fold-in, curl, etc. I was going to try a trick I used to use for older Suzuki rubber gaskets for fuel tanks, lube it lightly with a little 2-stroke oil, but I ran out of steam and patience last night.

 

Once the gasket bakes for a while, I will try WD first, see if I can coax it in.

 

I appreciate all your guidance on this :4322:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
KetoSoi
4 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

Afternoon  KetoSoi

 

 

Looks like I got it. I think your suggestion to sun dry it help a bit. With a little judicious stretching, and some minor lubrication, I was able to get the gasket seated properly with the pump and tank. I'm not entirely sure I had it tight enough the first time. Fortunately, the threads on the ring are position-specific, so the stamped letters always end up in the same general place. I referenced another pic I took and made sure it was in the same spot, which I knew would be adequately torqued.

 

I filled the tank up incrementally, checking every so often. Its almost full now, and no sign of  leaks. Dry as a bone.

 

Thanks again for all your help, its really appreciated!

 

 

Keto

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dirtrider
3 minutes ago, KetoSoi said:

 

Looks like I got it. I think your suggestion to sun dry it help a bit. With a little judicious stretching, and some minor lubrication, I was able to get the gasket seated properly with the pump and tank. I'm not entirely sure I had it tight enough the first time. Fortunately, the threads on the ring are position-specific, so the stamped letters always end up in the same general place. I referenced another pic I took and made sure it was in the same spot, which I knew would be adequately torqued.

 

I filled the tank up incrementally, checking every so often. Its almost full now, and no sign of  leaks. Dry as a bone.

 

Thanks again for all your help, its really appreciated!

 

 

Keto 

 

Afternoon Keto

 

Glad you got it to stop leaking.

 

That put-in-the-sun thing works on a lot or rubber type parts that are/were exposed to gasoline. Like "O" rings, rubber gaskets, rubber collars, etc.

 

Just a little fuel hydrocarbons absorbed by the rubber expands them just enough to  prevent easy re-installation. The hot sun bakes that out so the rubber parts shrink back to design intent.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...