garage floor epoxy? Any experience out there?

[RT Russ]

I am on the verge of a garage makeover and I am struggling to choose the floor coating. Rust-Oleum products? Valspar? Professional installation/application. I have read many reviews and they are all over the map. Some love then, some hate them. Good experiences and horrible experiences. What say you?

[TEWKS]

Here in the NE garage floors tend to crack with the winter frost so I chose race deck flooring. RD hides any cracks in the floor. Also, cheaper then a professionally applied epoxy floor.

https://racedeck.com/galleries/photo-gallery/

 

Design your floor here.

[Twisties]

We use the dance floor version from the same co. as racedeck, Snaplock for the dance studio we support, and our performances.  One issue with it is that liquids and dirt can go down the cracks and remain under, on slab.  May or may not be an issue to you... but some things like dog or cat urine can be problematic.  I'm pretty sure what we get is the same stuff,  just marketed differently and a smooth surface. It's tough as nails, fairly easy to install.  We pull ours apart and install it at performance venues, then bring it back to the studio and put it back.  

But, I think I would rather have surface like you are speaking of for my garage.  Also,  we paid about $3/sq ft for ours.  

[John Ranalletta]

14 hours ago, RT Russ said:

I am on the verge of a garage makeover and I am struggling to choose the floor coating. Rust-Oleum products? Valspar? Professional installation/application. I have read many reviews and they are all over the map. Some love then, some hate them. Good experiences and horrible experiences. What say you?

 

Russ, I've not used epoxy but saw it fail in the neighbors application where repeated tire wear scuffed it off in less than a year.  I also don't know how well it was applied.

 

Racetrack flooring is attractive, but I've also wondered how many times one would have to remove it to clean oil and dirt that fell through the cracks.

 

My concrete floor in my old, old garage was pitted and very unattractive.  My garage is a garage, not a showplace, so, I used horse stall mats from Tractor Supply.  They're made from recycled tires; are about 3/4" thick and heavy as hell.  If you want utility, practical protection and an impervious work surface, can't beat them.  They're perfect for the shop as I can drop heavy pieces of iron without worry.   Occasionally, I'll throw a cup of mineral spirits on oil/grease stains to clean the shop floor and scrub the garage floor with dish soap and a scrub brush to remove winter road slime & salt.

 

Weight-lifting gyms use them.  Here are a couple of shots of mine.  The mats are heavy and don't move around with car traffic.  While not easy the mats can be cut and shaped to size with a electric saws.   

 

 

[taylor1]

If doing this project yourself, keep in mind preparation is key. I have always had great results from H&C products sold at Sherwin Williams.

No product will work better than another if the the concrete is old and has not been etched and cleaned properly.

[John Ranalletta]

If you've got the scratch and the floor is intact, have it ground, polished and sealed professionally.

 

[realshelby]

I have what amounts to a 3 car garage attached to the house ( not my shop, that is out back...). Well over 10 years ago I done the floor with the Rustoleum brand garage floor epoxy. 

 

This floor was oil stained in several areas. I knew that was a problem. Just like with any paint, preparation is the key. I started out by pulverizing cat litter by twisting on it with my feet on the worst oil spots. This does a LOT to get rid of oil spots! Then I scrubbed the worst spots with SOS pads. Then I bought cheap powdered laundry detergent and sprinkled it all over. Then wet it down just enough to make a paste as I scrubbed with a large shop broom. Keep it wet/damp. One more scrub with the brush and make it wetter this time. Then rinse it off. Then I pressure washed it. Sounds like more work than it was. BUT, preparation is key. 

 

YOU MUST LET THE CONCRETE DRY PROPERLY!

 

Then I applied the paint. Don't put too much on, it covers instantly and leaving too much might promote flaking. If you are going for low cost, very good looking results, then that is what I got. Showing some age now. There are some spots where hot car tires have pulled the paint. Many spots from parking motorcycles on the side and center stands. These would be in ANY paint job as they actually tear into the concrete. Surprised at how well it actually held up and how good it looks. Planning to "remodel" this garage over the winter. I will likely use the same product to recoat the floor. 

[Rougarou]

In two of our factories that get heavy use, the floors were epoxied, $100k for one, $200k for the other.  These floors hold up to abuse to include 18-wheeler's driving in to pick up loads, 10k forklifts moving equipment around and other heavy items that are used.  I'd say, epoxy is the way to go, but during construction, the floors were properly prepared.  One floor was an older building the second is a new floor,.....we're getting ready for a third at 125000 sqft and it will be epoxied as well.

 

While my main garage currently has Perfection Vinyl Stonecraft that we got for a steal on craigslist (no way I'd pay full price $$$$), I am contemplating the epoxy for both the upstairs garage and downstairs garage.  We had our basement floor epoxied and it is gorgeous.  The vendor had just completed a large 5000 sqft garage for some Ford collector.  Anyway, roughly 500sqft costs us only $3k to get done.

[Go Cats Go]

I had a polyaspartics product installed on my garage floor last May. The floor was diamond ground, a custom color applied and it turned out very nice. . The  garage porch was coated also. I was concerned about it being slippery especially in winter. There was no issues with snow or rain and am glad I had the porch done also. r

 

Tom

[Rinkydink]

1 hour ago, Go Cats Go said:

I had a polyaspartics product installed on my garage floor last May. The floor was diamond ground, a custom color applied and it turned out very nice. . The  garage porch was coated also. I was concerned about it being slippery especially in winter. There was no issues with snow or rain and am glad I had the porch done also. r

 

Tom

Slight hijack

 

Your recessed lift...did you put a drain in the recessed portion?

 

Hijack over. 

[Go Cats Go]

When I had the floor cut for the lift I did not request a drain. The masonry contractor put it in. It is not connected to any plumbing. I do not wash the bikes in the garage. I do change fluids on the lift but no liquids of any kind have hit that drain.  It was a someday project to pull the grate and trowel it over. I just sent a email to the floor installer (he lives in town) to stop by and have him look at it. I hope he has some leftover flakes from the  Thank you for the push to make a someday project a completed project. 

[RT Russ]

Thanks for all of the responses. I like the rubber mat idea for comfort when standing and working on things. Ultimately, I have seen many nice results with various epoxy coatings and lean toward this for my garage floor. The wife's Camaro doesn't get driven often so I hope the "hot tire pickup" will not he an issue. I also desire a lighter color for light reflectivity. The black mat does not do this for me. Race Deck flooring is bloody expensive. I just spent several thousand on a nice cabinet set so a few hundred for epoxy is attractive. I hope it will be nice when it is done.

      I'm working WSBK races at Laguna Seca this coming weekend. I'll have a week to purge the garage and do the floor before the cabinet set gets delivered after the 22nd. Then I'll have a little over 4 weeks before our Europe trip. Retirement does NOT suck but it sure is a lot of work. :-)

 

Russ

[RandyShields]

Had ours done a couple of years ago.  Agree with the comments on preparation.  After the garage was emptied, they pressure washed it and let it dry for a full day before applying the Sherwin Williams epoxy.  Then, 3 days of not driving on it before it was ready.  Definitely worth it for a finished look and better protection than plain concrete.

 

 

[RT Russ]

While not the beautiful result as some of the professionally applied coatings, I am pleased with the overall results. I had some coverage issues with the epoxy.......it actually covered better than expected so as I got closer to the end, I had a lot left so I out it on a little thicker. I have a couple of wrinkles where it is too thick. No one but me will notice. I put clear coat with added anti slip material after the epoxy cured. I started the clear coat late in the day and had it setting up fast.

[RT Russ]

Then came the new cabinets! I've been busy trying to get everything organized and into the new cabinets for days! Good thing I don't have to work outside the house anymore!

 

 

[taylor1]

Looks great !    What product did you end up using ?

[wbw6cos]

Nice.

[Marty Hill]

Very nice!

 

[RT Russ]

6 hours ago, taylor1 said:

Looks great !    What product did you end up using ?

Rust-Oleum epoxy shield and clear coat. I spoke with Rust Oleum support and didnt get a great feeling for the newer Rick Solid product from them.