Clutch Inconsistency

[Hank R1200RT]

2013 RT with 34.4K miles.  Over the last week the clutch is acting funny.  When I release the clutch lever, it does not seem to actually engage the clutch fully.  At low speeds and gentle acceleration, seems to be OK.  In 4th or higher at 50 MPH or higher, the engine RPM will vary under more forceful acceleration (i.e. getting on the freeway).  It also feels like the clutch lever is not snapping back as strongly as it used to.

 

The clutch hydraulic fluid is dark, so I am guessing it is time to drain and re-fill.  Is there any way to check the master cylinder without disassembly?  Anything else obvious to review before taking it to the dealer?  Or is it possible this can just be adjusted at the lever?

 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions,

 

 

[dirtrider]

22 minutes ago, Hank R1200RT said:

2013 RT with 34.4K miles.  Over the last week the clutch is acting funny.  When I release the clutch lever, it does not seem to actually engage the clutch fully.  At low speeds and gentle acceleration, seems to be OK.  In 4th or higher at 50 MPH or higher, the engine RPM will vary under more forceful acceleration (i.e. getting on the freeway).  It also feels like the clutch lever is not snapping back as strongly as it used to.

 

The clutch hydraulic fluid is dark, so I am guessing it is time to drain and re-fill.  Is there any way to check the master cylinder without disassembly?  Anything else obvious to review before taking it to the dealer?  Or is it possible this can just be adjusted at the lever?

 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions,

 

 

 

 

Evening  Hank R1200RT

 

This is a very difficult diagnosis over the internet as  it is something that we actually need to feel/experience to give a solid diagnosis.

 

It might be a clutch pack issue, or oil-on-the-clutch issue, or something else like a sticking clutch lever.

 

It doesn't sound like a slave cylinder or master cylinder but again without feeling it there is no way to be sure. (could be a sticking clutch lever pivot). As a rule a master cylinder problem, or a slave cylinder problem, or air in the system results in no, or poor, clutch dis-engagement not  a poor clutch engagement.

 

My best suggestion is to get  it to your dealer as soon as possible so they can give a hands-on diagnosis before you do any clutch damage.

 

Added: just a quick thought-- any chance that your clutch master cylinder reservoir is overfilled. Unlike the brake system where the fluid level goes down with brake wear  the clutch master cylinder reservoir increases fluid level height as the clutch wears so if reservoir is overfull it can prevent the clutch from fully engaging .

[Pappy35]

The first and easiest thing to check is the master cylinder fluid level. The clutch hydraulic system works opposite to most systems: as the clutch wears the fluid level in the reservoir increases. This is because of how the actualion hardware is oriented but the bottom line is that once the reservoir reaches the top there's nowhere for the fluid to go and it acts like a slipping clutch. No ideal but perfectly normal behavior.

 

Now if the reservoir is not full, then I agree that it gets pretty difficult to diagnose over the internet.