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EvilTwin

Howdy. Going to look at a 2009 R1200RT tomorrow

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EvilTwin

Hello everyone.  I've been back at riding now for about 2  years after first getting my license well over 30 years ago.  Had a few bikes over the last couple years, still currently have a Honda Silverwing and Can Am Spyder.  I also had a Kawasaki Vulcan and brushed up on my manual shifting skills cause these other two are auto or semi-auto.

 

Probably like a lot of folks, I picked up the bug to get a BMW.  I'm a bit inseam challenged so I have been looking for a bike with an upright riding position and a seat that I can get low enough to at least get one foot if not two on the ground.  I did manage to ride a couple of boxers so far, an older R1200C which I thought was a bit heavy handling and quite loud as well as a newer 2017 R1200GS with a low chassis and seat at a nearby dealer.  I seriously fell in love with how that bike rode and shifted, and almost came close to getting it, but I couldnt justify spending that much money on a bike, especially when I'm looking to retire in two years and want to keep long term expenses down.

 

What I have found is what looks to be a nice example of a 2009 RT with about 27K miles.  Owner says the 25K mile service was done at the same dealer I test drove the GS at.  He is the original owner and the bike has been kept indoors its whole life.   Any thoughts on what to look for or things to expect?  His ask is 6500.  He has a top case and tank bag that may be additional as well or could probably be negotiated in to the deal.  It will need new tires.

 

I am fairly handy with all things mechanical.  I'm planning on getting it on the center stand and checking for any play on the rear wheel.   What other things should I be out on the look for?  Thanks for any help in advance.

 

Bob

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Twisties

Well, the first thing I was going to say was play in the rear wheel.... sounds like you have that issue covered.  Otherwise just ride it, I think.  Cluncky tranny is normal.  Brake failure light stays on until you get moving.    

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dirtrider
48 minutes ago, EvilTwin said:

Hello everyone.  I've been back at riding now for about 2  years after first getting my license well over 30 years ago.  Had a few bikes over the last couple years, still currently have a Honda Silverwing and Can Am Spyder.  I also had a Kawasaki Vulcan and brushed up on my manual shifting skills cause these other two are auto or semi-auto.

 

Probably like a lot of folks, I picked up the bug to get a BMW.  I'm a bit inseam challenged so I have been looking for a bike with an upright riding position and a seat that I can get low enough to at least get one foot if not two on the ground.  I did manage to ride a couple of boxers so far, an older R1200C which I thought was a bit heavy handling and quite loud as well as a newer 2017 R1200GS with a low chassis and seat at a nearby dealer.  I seriously fell in love with how that bike rode and shifted, and almost came close to getting it, but I couldnt justify spending that much money on a bike, especially when I'm looking to retire in two years and want to keep long term expenses down.

 

What I have found is what looks to be a nice example of a 2009 RT with about 27K miles.  Owner says the 25K mile service was done at the same dealer I test drove the GS at.  He is the original owner and the bike has been kept indoors its whole life.   Any thoughts on what to look for or things to expect?  His ask is 6500.  He has a top case and tank bag that may be additional as well or could probably be negotiated in to the deal.  It will need new tires.

 

I am fairly handy with all things mechanical.  I'm planning on getting it on the center stand and checking for any play on the rear wheel.   What other things should I be out on the look for?  Thanks for any help in advance.

 

Bob

 

 

 

 

 

Afternoon Bob

 

There were a few recalls on the 2009 1200RT, like brake lines at ABS module, replacement  'steel' rear wheel/brake rotor mounting flange,  etc. So ask if any of those have been done.

 

The main problem with the 2009 1200RT is multiple fuel gauge (fuel strip) failures (covered under an extended 12 year warranty). Some drive shaft failures (expensive) & difficult to tell until total failure. That cracking rear wheel flange (easy to tell as the original was alloy & the replacement is steel).

 

There is also a problem with (some) 2008/2009 ABS modules with sticking motor brushes (very difficult repair & very expensive to have dealer do the repair) --I believe the Module Masters is now doing a repair.

 

I have started seeing some throttle body cable cam cracking on the 1200RT's (very expensive to have repaired but we are working on a home type repair that is WAY  less costly. This is difficult to check for on a pre-buy inspection as a lot has to come apart on the 1200RT to see those cams.   

 

On a used 2009 1200RT look for signs of oil leaking at rear of engine (it might be cleaned up by seller so look for indicating spots  on front of cat converter. Look for cracking rear top box mounting (luggage rack) plate. Look for fork seal leakage, look for a faded dash backlighting (some are getting faint, especially in the bright sunlight). Look for engine oil leaks (present & past). Look for  broken windshield arms (especially if the bike has an aftermarket windshield).

 

 

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EvilTwin

Thank you, that is the type of information Im looking for.  

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large-stache

What dirtrider said.  My 09 RT had cracked but not completely broken throttle body cams, impossible to see without things apart, "might" be possible with tupperware removed and a small mirror.  I replaced mine(both were cracked at 47K miles) with the aluminum cams from beemerbits.com.  My fuel strip is no good, but just use the trip odometer to keep track of fill ups. I absolutely love my RT and I'm sure you will too. the price looks good.  let us know what you decide.

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LBump

Looks to be a clean and well maintained example of the last year for the Hexheads.  I'd call the dealer you mentioned and run the vin. for all the outstanding recalls.  Including the fuel pump which is prone to cracking and leaking fuel,  a safety concern, let alone a fire risk. Yes, some bikes have caught on fire.

As mentioned if you are running a larger aftermarket windscreen you'll need to replace the windscreen brackets, at least the lower ones. Originals crack/break.

Best of luck with the deal. :thumbsup:

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EvilTwin

Today turned out to be a very nice day.  We decided to make this trip a bit of an outing, since it was up on the Eastern Shore of Virginia, 83 miles according to Google from where I live to see the bike.  My mother in law is visiting with us so my wife thought it would be nice for her to see that part of the state.  From where I live, you cross the Chesapeake via the Bay Bridge Tunnel, which is about 20 miles from start to finish.  Because of this, I decided not to drag the trailer either since that would make it much harder to do some sight seeing on the way back.

 

The pictures the owner, Bob, sent me did not do the bike justice.  Except for one scratch on the front faring and one on the lens, the bike was pristine.  Clean and shiny paint, no visible grime that I could see with a flashlight under the tupperware.  All the recalls were done.  Rear rotor flange replaced, also a new fuel pump and ESA was replaced at about 6k miles.   Everything worked fine.  We set the esa to single rider and I could feel the bike drop down a bit and I was able to touch both toes down, though I could not flat foot it, even on the lowest setting of the seat.  I took it out for a ride and it did pretty well.  Shifted well enough, not quite as precise as my little Kawasaki did, but not bad at all.   There were some really twisty roads right by his house, not fast twistys, maybe 40 something MPH.    I got a bit lost, ended up pulling into a parking lot and using my phone to navigate back to the house.  I used the bluetooth to play back through my helmet and made it back fine.  Got the bike up to around 60-70 for a couple of miles and it felt very solid and planted.  At this point I had already decided to take the bike,  he was pretty firm on the price, but threw in the large topcase as well as the tank bag and all the liners for all the bags.   I'll pick it up next weekend with the trailer.

 

On the way back we stopped a couple of times, once at a farm stand, once to look at outdoor furniture.  Then we swung down to Cape Charles which is just north of the bridge and had a late lunch sitting outside with a nice breeze watching the boats go out on the bay.    Last stop before heading home was at the Brown Dog Ice cream shop for some home made ice cream cones.  All in all a neat day out with my wife and I got a bike to boot.  

 

A few pics of the day:

 

DlD5AbZ.jpg

 

7CWHoNS.jpg

 

Vi6GGLS.jpg

 

3GnERa4.jpg

 

A pretty place for lunch:

KBuGKug.jpg

 

Ice Cream at the Brown Dog:

 

66syy01.jpg

 

 

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LBump

Congrats.!

I believe there are a number of manufacturers making lower seats, if that is an issue.

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Jeffrop

I got same model (and color) last August with 28000 miles and have thoroughly enjoyed every ride.  Riding single, I can push to the “sport” side with many trips to N. Ga, NC and TN mountains.  Still amazed at handling, braking and smooth power. Riding 2-up with my wife, the “touring” side is very smooth and allows us to escape the city environs in comfort (and quickly).  Not unusual for us to ride 200+ miles-just because. 

 

Looks like you got a good one as well.

 

keep an eye on tire pressure-I use 36/42; changing engine oil, gear box fluid and FD oil was a breeze. Also checked valves and made minor adjustments. Haven’t done the TBS yet but will this winter after valve check. Just put on 2nd set of tires and replaced rear brakes as well

 

we bought Sargent heated seats with low driver so I can touch both feet easily.  Also put on engine covers, front fender extender, and taller  VStream windshield with the heavy duty support arms from Beemer Boneyard. One of best safety related item was Wunderlich GS mirrors so rear views were actually possible

 

this site has been a huge source of shared and valuable knowledge!

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NoKick90

BMW made a "low" chassis version of this bike, one of which I bought  at the end of Winter. No ESA with that package, though; perhaps the solo setting on your bike's ESA can get your boots almost as close to the ground. If you're built like me [68", 30" inseam] the oem windscreen will do fine. All the way up it will negate most of the effects of crosswinds, and all the way down you can easily see over it and get a nice breeze through your helmet. After several thousand miles out West and through the WV mountains, nothing has gone wrong and there is nothing the bike needs - other than an old Alaska Buttpad.

Two recommendations: get some case savers {crash bars, whatever); and get these valve adjusters: https://www.beemerboneyard.com/wurthoilhead.html. At 27k, your valves are probably still in spec, but it's always good to check. Happy Trails!

NoKick90

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EvilTwin

Thank you both for those replies.  I'm really stoked to be picking her up in a couple of days.   I've been perusing the web looking for ideas on what I can get for this bike.  I'd like to mount a GPS.  Whether its one of the BMW units or a standard Garmin, I'm not sure.  The sales guy at the BMW dealer said he would sell me a used Navigator V for 300 if I bought the GS.  Now I dont know if that offer still stands just to sell it by itself.  The other issue would be how to mount it, this bike does not have the dedicated mount for it.  

 

I do think the mirrors need improvement.  Will any mirror with say an 8 or 10mm mount fit or do you need something special?   I've also looked at the mod to drop the foot pegs down a bit and maybe extend the shifter out as well as the brake, but I'll wait till I put a few hundred miles on it and see how I feel then.

 

The windscreen was upgraded by the current owner, and he didn't mention if he kept the OEM screen.  I'll ask about it, might be nice to have a smaller screen to use in Summer to get more air.

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dirtrider
4 hours ago, EvilTwin said:

Thank you both for those replies.  I'm really stoked to be picking her up in a couple of days.   I've been perusing the web looking for ideas on what I can get for this bike.  I'd like to mount a GPS.  Whether its one of the BMW units or a standard Garmin, I'm not sure.  The sales guy at the BMW dealer said he would sell me a used Navigator V for 300 if I bought the GS.  Now I dont know if that offer still stands just to sell it by itself.  The other issue would be how to mount it, this bike does not have the dedicated mount for it.  

 

I do think the mirrors need improvement.  Will any mirror with say an 8 or 10mm mount fit or do you need something special?   I've also looked at the mod to drop the foot pegs down a bit and maybe extend the shifter out as well as the brake, but I'll wait till I put a few hundred miles on it and see how I feel then.

 

The windscreen was upgraded by the current owner, and he didn't mention if he kept the OEM screen.  I'll ask about it, might be nice to have a smaller screen to use in Summer to get more air.

 

Morning EvilTwin

 

The BMW K1200RS mirrors fit, look great,  & work very well on the BMW 1200RT bikes. They are pretty well the go-to upgrade mirrors for the 1200RT bike. You mainly use the K1200RS bar mounted mirrors for rearward vision then turn the stock dash mounted mirrors w-a-y out so you cover all the  side vehicle blind areas.

 

As for a GPS, that is something that you need to research. Personally I am not that impressed with the BMW version of any of the older Garmin GPS devices as BMW quits supporting them quickly so the common updates for the same  Garmin unit are not always available for the BMW version.

 

Plus if any older GPS that you are looking at doesn't come with life-time mapping updates then you will quickly out money the initial savings with additional mapping upgrade purchases.   (my recommendation is buy the Garmin model not the BMW model of any GPS that you are looking at) plus get one with existing lifetime map updates if possible.

 

As for mounting the GPS, center low mounting using a ball stud on a handlebar attaching bolt works good as it keeps the GPS out of the direct sunlight (so you can see the darn thing in the sun) as well as toss your helmet over it at stops to prevent theft.

 

You need to decide on a tank bag (or not) before mounting the GPS as that can change how/where you mount the GPS.  

 

Personally I like my GPS mounted just above the tank bag front top but just low enough to see the entire dash over it as that allows easy re-programming while riding as I can rest my arm on the tank bag (so I can hit the correct buttons on a moving bouncing bike)  but still see the road in front of the motorcycle  out of the top of my eyes  while re-programming.

 

Different riders like their GPS mounted in different locations so it kind of boils down to what YOU like & need.

 

Picture below shows K1200RS mirrors on a R1200RT, even though the picture doesn't show it from this angle, when sitting on the riders seat you can just see the GPS over the tank bag but still see the entire dash instruments & LCD screen over top of GPS.

 

 

K1200RS mirror_GPS.JPG

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NoKick90

My RT came with a ball mount and a phone mount. I refuse to have anything on the bike that might distract, so those mounts were removed instantly and are available for resale. If you're interested I can shoot you a few pics.

As for a tankbag, I adapted the 10-liter magnetic bag that worked well on my Bandit. Two grommets at the rear hold small zip ties that are then attached to a much larger zip tie that fits through the rear bracket - the part visible in the pic above. At the front I've got a quick-disconnect strap to make fill-ups nice and easy. Not secure, but the locking compartment can hold most valuables when you're away from the bike.

For Dirt: how much more wind noise do you get from those K1200RS mirrors?

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EvilTwin

The bike is coming with the BMW expandable tank bag.  Not sure I'll have a use for it unless I take it on a long trip and need the storage.  I'll also need to try it out with either the side cases or the top box on using it for the daily commute.  If either of the side cases will take my helmet, then I'll probably leave those on and just store the top box.  I did see an aftermarket flat mount that sits on top of the dash that I might go for and use a RAM mount to hold an older Garmin GPS that will come off my Silverwing.  It's not the latest or greatest, but it shows all the backroads of where I normally ride and that should be good enough.  I could also get some type of mount for my cell phone if I need the latest and greatest google maps for long distance travel.

 

 

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dirtrider
38 minutes ago, EvilTwin said:

The bike is coming with the BMW expandable tank bag.  Not sure I'll have a use for it unless I take it on a long trip and need the storage.  I'll also need to try it out with either the side cases or the top box on using it for the daily commute.  If either of the side cases will take my helmet, then I'll probably leave those on and just store the top box.  I did see an aftermarket flat mount that sits on top of the dash that I might go for and use a RAM mount to hold an older Garmin GPS that will come off my Silverwing.  It's not the latest or greatest, but it shows all the backroads of where I normally ride and that should be good enough.  I could also get some type of mount for my cell phone if I need the latest and greatest google maps for long distance travel.

 

 

 

Evening EvilTwin

 

Depending on how you want to power your GPS (key-on, engine running, always on, etc) there is a GPS power connector taped to the front upper steering neck area. It take a special BMW connector (if you don't want to cut into the  factory wiring).

 

But that   GPS connector is powered kind of strangely as it comes on at key-on but stays on for a short while after key-off. This lag in power down can drive some older Garmin GPS  units crazy as some of the older GPS units will power themselves back on (using internal battery)  after turned off as the lagging power-down happens.

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EvilTwin

It's home.  Drove up this morning and picked it up.  Pretty uneventful trip which is always good.  We got it cinched down pretty well, I stopped about half way to check the straps and all were still tight.  Got home around 230 so I decided to head over to the DMV, wow, what a pain that was.  Lines were wrapping around, little ac in the building.   Took about 2.5 hours to get the bike titled and registered.  I'll put the plates on it tonight and take it around the neighborhood to start getting comfortable with it.

 

At the sellers house:

OYghTJn.jpg

 

Home:

vDdwjmB.jpg

 

Next to the Silverwing:

 

Pqr7PEf.jpg

 

 

 

 

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EvilTwin

Took the bike out for a couple of 30+ mile rides out to Suffolk this weekend.  Really enjoying the ride on this new beastie.  Interestingly enough, it weighs about the same and is close to the size of the Silverwing, but that is where it ends.    While out in Suffolk, I went by a street that had new gravel put down and I had my first experience of a bit of a slide on it.  That woke me up a bit.  But otherwise the bike did fine.  On the hunt for a low seat, I have to get my feet a bit firmer on the ground.  In the meantime, I'm practicing my technique of using the rear brake to come to a stop since I've had a couple of instances of using the front and having the bars turn on me if they weren't perfectly straight.

 

 

IMG_20190628_200626394.jpg

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dirtrider
1 hour ago, EvilTwin said:

  In the meantime, I'm practicing my technique of using the rear brake to come to a stop since I've had a couple of instances of using the front and having the bars turn on me if they weren't perfectly straight.

 

 

Afternoon EvilTwin

 

Rear brake only is giving up a major portion of your braking as the vehicle weigh transfers to the front on hard braking making the rear brake even less effective.

 

Your 2009 RT should have a learning (adaptive) ABS system so using the front brake lever gives you the best braking as the ABS computer learns your vehicle braking needs then automatically adjusts the front/rear braking bias for best most effective braking.

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Kerry in Mpls
1 hour ago, EvilTwin said:

...

In the meantime, I'm practicing my technique of using the rear brake to come to a stop since I've had a couple of instances of using the front and having the bars turn on me if they weren't perfectly straight.

 

 

The handlebars want to turn when you use the front brake? I wonder if your forks have somehow been bumped out of parallel. I could see that causing the front wheel to tend to turn a bit to one side as the forks compress under braking.

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EvilTwin

I think it is just me not keeping them in a straight enough line when coming to a stop. If I let them turn even a little bit, once the front brake is applied, then they continue to turn in and if there is any speed on the bike, it gets dicey.  And I am talking about coming to a gradual stop where I can use the drag from the motor to slow way down before letting the brakes finish the job.  Slowing down quick on the highway, I use the front brake mostly.  That is also a carryover habit from the Silverwing since it doesnt use a foot brake and the left bar handle is also a brake for the front and rear combined.

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EvilTwin
14 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

 

 

Afternoon EvilTwin

 

Rear brake only is giving up a major portion of your braking as the vehicle weigh transfers to the front on hard braking making the rear brake even less effective.

 

Your 2009 RT should have a learning (adaptive) ABS system so using the front brake lever gives you the best braking as the ABS computer learns your vehicle braking needs then automatically adjusts the front/rear braking bias for best most effective braking.

 

I did not know that.  Thats quite a sophisticated system coming from my previous rides.

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dirtrider
28 minutes ago, EvilTwin said:

 

I did not know that.  Thats quite a sophisticated system coming from my previous rides.

 

Afternoon EvilTwin

 

It has more than that to offer, the ABS system also has a built in (programmed in) rear wheel anti-lift (anti-stoppie) programming to prevent the rear wheel from lifting real high or staying up (it can still lift slightly at very heavy abrupt brake input) but won't stay up for long or lift very high.  

 

You'll get used to your 1200RT braking system pretty quickly as it has a very good brakes that are linear, progressive, & like big anchors.

 

I can't remember on your SilverWing but it is like the GoldWing of that era then the rear brake pedal on the GoldWing also cross-applied one front brake caliper so they got a lot of front braking with just rear pedal apply.

 

On your 1200RT it is sort of backwards to that as you get automatic rear braking when using the front hand brake lever.

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Woodie

Looks awesome to me. I got an '09 last year, factory lowered, w/ lower seat, etc.  Would offer you a trade since I don't need the lowered part...but I've now got >100k miles on it...and yours is really, really clean. 

 

I have cell phone (aka GPS) RAM mounted on left (clutch fluid resevoir) and then GoPro mounted (sometimes) on a RAM mount across the steering head (where GPS is in above pictures). I tried phone on the center mount, but really prefer it closer to my left hand and higher/closer to line of sight.  Thanks for the tip on the GPS power, I wish I had known that before mounting a dual-USB power outlet on the inside of the left fairing. (for power to phone/camera while moving)

 

Enjoy the ride!

 

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EvilTwin
On 6/26/2019 at 8:42 PM, dirtrider said:

Depending on how you want to power your GPS (key-on, engine running, always on, etc) there is a GPS power connector taped to the front upper steering neck area. It take a special BMW connector (if you don't want to cut into the  factory wiring).

 

But that   GPS connector is powered kind of strangely as it comes on at key-on but stays on for a short while after key-off. This lag in power down can drive some older Garmin GPS  units crazy as some of the older GPS units will power themselves back on (using internal battery)  after turned off as the lagging power-down happens.

 

This afternoon I looked at the power plug on the left side of the bottom of the dash.  I pulled my meter out and checked voltage on it.  Sure enough, it powers on with the ignition, but then takes a good minute after the ignition is off before it turns off.  I think it will be fine since the old garmin that I am going to use will power down by itself if it loses its external power.   I just have to figure out how to loosen up the fairing or the black dash panel so I can get access to the wiring.  I don't have a problem splicing the wires to the plug and then shrink wrapping them to protect from weather.

 

 

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EvilTwin
4 hours ago, Woodie said:

Looks awesome to me. I got an '09 last year, factory lowered, w/ lower seat, etc.  Would offer you a trade since I don't need the lowered part...but I've now got >100k miles on it...and yours is really, really clean. 

 

Enjoy the ride!

 

 

Thanks.  I would love the lowered version, but probably not with 100K on the clock.   I had a chance to ride a lowered R1200GS and loved being able to put both feet firmly on the ground, but that bike was over double what I paid for mine and I just couldn't justify it.  

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dirtrider
1 hour ago, EvilTwin said:

 

This afternoon I looked at the power plug on the left side of the bottom of the dash.  I pulled my meter out and checked voltage on it.  Sure enough, it powers on with the ignition, but then takes a good minute after the ignition is off before it turns off.  I think it will be fine since the old garmin that I am going to use will power down by itself if it loses its external power.   I just have to figure out how to loosen up the fairing or the black dash panel so I can get access to the wiring.  I don't have a problem splicing the wires to the plug and then shrink wrapping them to protect from weather.

 

 

 

Afternoon EvilTwin

 

No need to cut into the wiring as BMW sells a connector with pig tail that will plug right into that GPS/ plug (just splice your GPS onto that then plug it in).

 

You might be able to reach in from the front of bike (up over the front fender & plug it in). If not then the L/H side plastic panels come off fairly easily & quickly (remove tank rack on top then just follow the screws on panels). On the L/H side there is a black plastic twist retainer up by the dash plus don't forget the  2 screws up front by the oil cooler, & don't forget to unhook the power socket connector on back of panel.

 

BMW part number  ---  83300413585  --- "REPAIR PLUG, 3-PIN - NO. 611656, optional-accessories plug".

 

Not real cheap but  that accessory connector  makes connection very easy. 

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Dann

I have the K1200RS Mirrors on my 07 and love them

As for GPS holder, the Migsel is the best IMHO for this bike. Easy to install (2 screws), fits above the instrument cluster and can hold up to 3 RAM balls

 

IMGP7065a.jpg

TPMS 5.jpg

IMGP7062a.jpg

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EvilTwin

So while I was at the dealer this afternoon, I showed the bike to Rick the sales guy that has been there forever. He nailed it as an 09 from 50 feet away.   I asked him about a noise the bike makes at idle.  It's a bit of a knocking sound that goes away as soon as you rev it.  I initially though it was just part of the way these boxer engines idle, but the more I ride it, the more I wonder.  He thinks it might be a bad coil for one of the plugs, which makes sense that it would cause a shaky idle and then go away with higher RPM.  I guess I will consult my Haynes manual tonight to see where these coils reside.  Does this sound like a possibility?

 

 

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dirtrider
47 minutes ago, EvilTwin said:

So while I was at the dealer this afternoon, I showed the bike to Rick the sales guy that has been there forever. He nailed it as an 09 from 50 feet away.   I asked him about a noise the bike makes at idle.  It's a bit of a knocking sound that goes away as soon as you rev it.  I initially though it was just part of the way these boxer engines idle, but the more I ride it, the more I wonder.  He thinks it might be a bad coil for one of the plugs, which makes sense that it would cause a shaky idle and then go away with higher RPM.  I guess I will consult my Haynes manual tonight to see where these coils reside.  Does this sound like a possibility?

 

 

 

 

Afternoon EvilTwin

 

It's a possibility but with an upper  coil out they usually run pretty bad so I doubt it is an upper coil.

 

Could be a lower coil as those are important for a good idle but those phase out & do nothing above mid RPM range.

 

Lower coil is on bottom of cylinder head so you can disconnect each to see if it makes a difference in how engine idles   (caution: carefully unplug  the coils, do not run engine with a coil removed from spark plug but still connected to wire harness as that can damage a good coil)  -- Be very very carful & gentle in unplugging the coils as it is REAL easy to break/damage the coil connectors.  

 

A bad o2 sensor can also effect the engine curb idle (makes engine run unevenly at idle).

 

Does your knocking go away with clutch lever held in? If so then you probably just  have a normal transmission gear rattle.

 

 

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greiffster
On 6/26/2019 at 7:42 PM, dirtrider said:

 

Evening EvilTwin

 

Depending on how you want to power your GPS (key-on, engine running, always on, etc) there is a GPS power connector taped to the front upper steering neck area. It take a special BMW connector (if you don't want to cut into the  factory wiring).

 

But that   GPS connector is powered kind of strangely as it comes on at key-on but stays on for a short while after key-off. This lag in power down can drive some older Garmin GPS  units crazy as some of the older GPS units will power themselves back on (using internal battery)  after turned off as the lagging power-down happens.

 

My older 450 does that.....sometimes.

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EvilTwin

 

 

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

 

 

Afternoon EvilTwin

 

 

Does your knocking go away with clutch lever held in? If so then you probably just  have a normal transmission gear rattle.

 

 

Idle does not change with the clutch held in.  I'll do a bit of troubleshooting later on tonight.  Bike is hot from riding home from work.

 

On another note, I just replaced the battery with one from Amazon.  Brand was a Deka, paid about 100 for it.  I pulled the old one out and guess what, it was the same exact brand.  Date code said C3, looked that up online and it corresponds to March 2013.  So six years out of a battery.  It was cranking on the slower side and last Saturday wouldn't turn over and I had to jump it. and then charge it.  Cranks much faster now.

 

I also ordered the little connector for the GPS, 25 and change.  Yep, thats a BMW price.

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dirtrider
8 minutes ago, EvilTwin said:

 

 

Idle does not change with the clutch held in.  I'll do a bit of troubleshooting later on tonight.  Bike is hot from riding home from work.

 

On another note, I just replaced the battery with one from Amazon.  Brand was a Deka, paid about 100 for it.  I pulled the old one out and guess what, it was the same exact brand.  Date code said C3, looked that up online and it corresponds to March 2013.  So six years out of a battery.  It was cranking on the slower side and last Saturday wouldn't turn over and I had to jump it. and then charge it.  Cranks much faster now.

 

I also ordered the little connector for the GPS, 25 and change.  Yep, thats a BMW price.

 

Afternoon EvilTwin

 

Did you do a new TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) re-learn after the new battery install (it's shown as required in your riders manual under battery replace).

 

TPS re-learn procedure-----

 

*Disconnect the lead to the battery's positive  post for about 3 minutes.
Then
*Reconnect the positive lead to the battery's positive post.
Then
*Switch on the ignition.
Then
*Without starting the engine, fully open/close the throttle once or twice so that the control unit of the BMW engine management system can register the throttle-valve positions.
Then
*Switch off the ignition.

 

That's it__

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EvilTwin

Nope, but I will.  Thanks again.  I'm on the steep end of the learning curve.

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bimmers

hi and congratulations on a good choice. I picked up a 09 RT a year ago with 22k miles as a replacement for a 1200C Montauk which looked great and always was a magnet for viewers but not that fun to ride. Have an 06 RT as well at 2nd home with 36k miles since new. They do ride differently and the 09 feels smoother whikle both have had valve adjustments and TB synchs done recently. 

I have the GS mirrors on both and the Migsel GPS mount on both which I love with an old Garmin 550 on. The phone I mounted with a RAM mount from one of the handlebar screws left of center.

On the 06 I had to replace the clutch at around 30k because of a failed seal wetting it, it is a big deal at the dealer since they have to "split the bike halves to get to it.

 

Loving the bikes and riding in the GA mountains and beyond and cruising in FL which is now both boring and hot.

 

Be safe.

 

Hans 

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EvilTwin
3 minutes ago, bimmers said:

hi and congratulations on a good choice. I picked up a 09 RT a year ago with 22k miles as a replacement for a 1200C Montauk which looked great and always was a magnet for viewers but not that fun to ride.

 

Thanks.  That is interesting, I was going to get an R1200c since the seat height is so low, but once I got to ride it for a short ride, I was not terribly impressed.  It felt heavy and not very precise and one of the previous owners had put ztechnic mufflers on it and I thought it was on the loud side..  But they are cool looking and if you like chrome you're all set.

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EvilTwin

Picked up a couple of used BMW mirrors off Ebay for about 50 shipped.  Not perfect shape, but not terrible shape either.  They do help seeing behind as well as to the side.  

 

 

IMG_20190711_144806295.jpg

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EvilTwin
On 7/9/2019 at 4:44 PM, EvilTwin said:

 

 

Idle does not change with the clutch held in.  I'll do a bit of troubleshooting later on tonight.  Bike is hot from riding home from work.

 

On another note, I just replaced the battery with one from Amazon.  Brand was a Deka, paid about 100 for it.  I pulled the old one out and guess what, it was the same exact brand.  Date code said C3, looked that up online and it corresponds to March 2013.  So six years out of a battery.  It was cranking on the slower side and last Saturday wouldn't turn over and I had to jump it. and then charge it.  Cranks much faster now.

 

I also ordered the little connector for the GPS, 25 and change.  Yep, thats a BMW price.

 

Took the bike in to the dealer to have the tires changed.  The price they gave me on the Pirelli Angel GT 2's A spec was much cheaper than what I could get them for.  I asked them to look at the issue with the idle knock,  and they called and told me it was a missing rubber cap on one of the throttle bodies.  They replaced it and that fixed the miss.  Cost me 47 bucks over the cost of the tires and mount.  You can color me happy over that one.

 

 

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dirtrider
13 minutes ago, EvilTwin said:

 

Took the bike in to the dealer to have the tires changed.  The price they gave me on the Pirelli Angel GT 2's A spec was much cheaper than what I could get them for.  I asked them to look at the issue with the idle knock,  and they called and told me it was a missing rubber cap on one of the throttle bodies.  They replaced it and that fixed the miss.  Cost me 47 bucks over the cost of the tires and mount.  You can color me happy over that one.

 

 

 

Afternoon EvilTwin

 

Glad they found it that easy,  that kind of problem is very difficult to diagnose over to internet as you need the bike running & in front of you.  

 

I don't have that cap on my 1200RT as I run a hose from both TB nipples to up under the seat then plug off one of the hoses there, then also run the evap can purge hose to that under-seat area then hook it to the other TB remote hose.

 

This allows a quick throttle body balance check  without removing the side plastics or trying to use long hemostats to work hoses onto the  hidden TB  nipples with a hot engine.

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