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kruuuzn

‘04 aux lights.

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kruuuzn

With the increasing problem of distracted drivers nowadays I’m thinking about a set of auxiliary lights for my RT after all these years.

 

I've seen all of the typical mount locations over the years but really don’t know where would be the best. I don’t want to alter any bodywork so I’m leaning towards the forks (would that be on the brake calipers?).  

 

I’m just starting to look into this so I don't yet have a feel for what’s available. Can anyone recommend a quality proven system? And maybe pros and cons of the different locations?

 

What are the most amps I can safely draw to run extra lights?

 

Thanks!

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kruuuzn

Can anybody tell me what this cast boss is with the little threaded hole on my forks?

Would this make a good mount if I drilled this out?

 

 

image1.jpeg

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ltljohn

I believe on the 1100 it was a fender mounting screw.  I used it to mount lights on my 1150 RT.  I made my own mounts but I think there are some out there that will bolt on there.  As far as current draw just use LED lights and the draw is very low.  I powered my lights from and auxiliary fuse panel that was on a relay so they went off with the key. I used the 3 circuit setup from Eastern Beaver

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kruuuzn

Ah yes, the 1100 DID have that fender style that covered that area of the forks didn’t it? I’ll bet you’re right.

 

I scanned some of the LED lights at Twisted Throttle and I found some that draw 10 amps. Would that be a concern?

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Miguel!

I've been obsessed with lighting for years.  I've tried a few things to upgrade the lighting on my 01 R1100RT. I swapped out the headlight for a Cyclops 10K LED. 10,000 Lumens on low and hi beam. I was not hot on it initially because it uses a fan but my local independent BMW mechanic says he puts them in all the police bikes they have held up well. I've been running mine for about 1500 miles. No problem. Its very bright white. So far I recommend it for $79.

 

Recently, I saw a modern 1200GS pull behind me that had yellow running lights on the engine guards. He was so obvious, I got out of my car at the next light, introduced myself as a fellow rider and asked what they were: Clearwater Krista. I don't think he had them cranked up all the way either. 

 

I, like you Kruuuzn, didn't want to break into the body work so decided to turn the turn signals into running lights. I was going to build my own controller but the parts cost wasn't not much less than the signal minder that promised to do the same thing and had more feature. So I upgraded the bulbs in the turn signals to 2K lumen LED, installed the signal minder and discovered that, for at least the 1100, the signal minder only runs the lights at 30% intensity in running light mode. The configuration is not quite as conspicuous as I'd hoped. I am considering going back to design my own or modify the signal minder circuit to get the light up to full brightness. Even at full brightness, they are not focused in the right direction inside the turn signal housing. We'll see. 

 

I've also been looking at running lights for a while. Seems like the two front runners for me that are low profile are the Denali 2139 Lumen LED modules (they have several models and I don'g know the differences yet) at $370 and include and amber lens and Clearwater Darla at $499 + $40 for the amber lens.. They both have brightness controllers and both are about 2" diameter and come with mounting hardware. The Clearwater Darla have an R1100RT-specific mounting kit (for the brake calipers I think). Skene lights are another option that has been recommended by several people at about $129-$165 depending on features. 

 

There's lots of recommendations for cheap lights on amazon and eBay. I'm not going that way tho. 

 

Seems like the best place to mount them is on the brake calipers or the fenders or engine protector if you have them. I've seen some mount them under or on top of the turn signals with the right bracket but some say they will wash out the turn signals. I guess you could make them blink like the turn signal to avoid that issue.. My local mechanic say you can mount them on the fender but you have to do a mod to the bolt holding on the fender. I haven't looked at it. He highly recommended the Darla. 

 

I launched a thread a few months ago about running lights. It is instructive read. I finally decided it had to be amber vs white but not on the specific light manufacturer. There's s strong following for the Clearwater, Denali and Skene. 

 

Some reviews: Darla,  Skene, Denali DM 2.0.

 

Another issue is what you are looking for from the light. For me, I want day-time conspicuity. I avoid riding at night like the plague. I'm thinking the Skene's might work great for me. Please keep us informed about what you do.

 

Best Miguel

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kruuuzn

Thank Miguel.

 

I'll definitely spend some time reading that thread.

 

That's a good point about the amber lenses. For years I had amber lens protectors over the driving lights that are next to the headlight on my '04. They were held on with velcro buttons. My riding buddies always commented about how conspicuous I was in their mirrors. I lost one of them recently so I no longer have them. I still have the clear protector over the headlight though. I'm putting a check mark for amber lenses on whatever I decide on.

 

I'm also going to check on the 3-circuit harness that Itihohn recommended. I've been on the Eastern Beaver web site in the past. It looks like quality stuff. I can usually wire anything with good directions but I'm not about to design my own system. That component should make things much easier since I've got a new electrified tank bag on the way too.

 

And if I had my choice I think I'd like the lights to be mounted lower. The threaded bosses on my forks look perfect, even if I need to drill them larger.

 

I'm going to do some research on these lights. I think sometimes that's half the fun. I sit down with the Ipad in the evenings and it's not usual for my wife to ask: "What are you researching NOW???". They just don't understand! LOL

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Miguel!

Kruuuzn. 

Thanks for the yellow/white conspicuity feedback. Yup, yellow/amber seems to be the way to go for being conspicuous during the daytime, white at night.  One advantage to the Clearwater Darla is that the yellow/amber lens cover is "quickly" removable if you end up riding at night. 

 

I'll have to look back at the post by littlejohn on the 3 circuit harness. I've completely forgotten about it. 

 

My plan (I think) is to mount lights to the brake calipers. 

 

Let me know what you come up with on the lights. Check out this thread on bmwmoa for yet more perspective. Seems like the Clearwater are top of the line, closely followed by the Denali and then the others from everything I read. The 1100 doesn't have CANbus so any of the light controversy advantages of CANbus are irrelevant to the 1100. I don't know about the 1150. 

 

Also, check out this Denali page on the D2 which allows you to change the beam pattern from spot, flood and hybrid.  Seems like flood is best for daytime conspicuity. Since I'm primarily a daytime rider, changing the beam pattern is not important to me. Just sayin'

 

Best

Miguel

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kruuuzn

I've been doing a little studying and comparing on the Denali D2 and Clearwater Darla. Both of these lights are about the same size, right around 2".

 

If you include the extra yellow lenses and mounting brackets for the RT front forks the Clearwater is $100 more.

 

BUT, the Clearwater has a nice beefy bracket that is designed for the pre '05 RTs. You can actually choose the R1100RT or R1150RT from their web site and it recommends this particular bracket. You can't choose the older RT's on the Denali web site. It looks like you need to choose between a couple of less beefy generic bracket designs. Will they work ok? Who knows, it's hard to confirm on their site.

 

AND, if you want to change between the yellow and clear lenses it requires removing screws on the Denali. This exposes the o-ring seal and bulb. That's not something I want to do beside the road at dusk. On the Clearwater you get a clear cover and yellow cover. They just slip on and off. This seems more appealing to me.

 

AND, the Clearwater lights are dimable and come with a rotary "volume control" as they call it. The Denali is a single intensity light but can be upgraded to a dual intensity with the optional controller for an additional $50.

 

The only thing these are missing for me is the size. I've been thinking a larger light would look better aesthetically but the specs on the larger Denalis are the same as the D2 so the larger models don't gain any advantage on the Clearwater. The only difference is the size and price. On the Clearwater, if you want a larger size the price steps up considerably so that's not a good option. I guess I can live with 2".

 

Food for thought.

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Miguel!

I've also been doing some research. My goal is to get DRL on my bike. I avoid riding at night. I looked at the Clearwater Darla, Denali DM, and the Skene. Why the Skene you ask. Everything I've read on the Skene is positive and it has a "twinkle factor" that catches onlookers attention that aren't looking directly at them. The webbikeworld review thought the Skene might actually be too bright for DLR. Since I don't ride at night, I wondered if the Clearwater and Denali were overkill for me. The Clearwater look like the brightest lights at 2000 lumens for each light. The Denali are 1/2 that at about 1175 lumens each. The Clearwater come with all the parts. They Denali requires you purchase the brackets for another $65 plus another $50 for the "DataDim" giving you 0, 50% and 100% brightness. So the cost difference between the Denali and Clearwater is not much. In that case, I'd take the Clearwater over the Denali. The Skene is interesting. The Skene are so small they will just disappear visually when the bike is not running. I think the Clearwater and Denali will look fine but they will be more obvious when looking at the bike. So I'm down to choosing the Darla or Skene. Cost wise, the Darla will be ~$529 (for yellow, and I think the bracket) + ~$50 for CA sale tax and shipping; total $575. Skene will be ~$135 with shipping. WBW says you have to turn the Darla dimmer down almost all the way for DLR, otherwise they are too bright. Since I don't ride at night, seems like most of the capabilities for the Darla are wasted on me. OTOH, if I get stuck someplace, it might be good to have the extra light. But $575 - $135 = $440 is a lot of money for a capability that I plan never to use. I don't like the Skene zip tie mounting which may not last (tho they only weigh a few ounces) . But Skene does get good reviews.

 

That's where I am tonight. We'll see where I end up tmw. I'd like to make a decision and get them installed and move on from here in the next few days. 

Miguel. 

 

 

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Miguel!

Kruuzn. I made a decision. I have two key criteria whenever have to make decision about my bike: Keep me rolling and keep me safe. I, like all of us, have spent many 1000's of dollars on our bike and accoutrements and I decided I'd be happy with the Clearwater Darla and would have no reservations about them. I "think" I'd be happy and satisfied with the Skene's but decided to abide by my second criterion: Keep me safe. So I decided that even tho I don't think I need the full Darla features, I'm going to get them. I have my bike serviced at a local independent BMW and they have ordered me a pair this morning. I should have them next Tuesday. I'll post pics when I have them installed.Let us know what you decide to do. 

 

Best

Miguel

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Miguel!

Kruuzn. Just a bit more on the Denali. I was confused about the difference between the DM and D2 models. They look almost identical but the D2 is $75 more expensive. I called Denali about that. They told me the D2 is a little larger and the lease is slightly different so you get more of a narrow beam. Seemed a little over too much for some different plastic and a little larger enclosure IMO. 

 

Best

Miguel

Quote

 

 

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kruuuzn

EXCELLENT! I ordered the Darlas this morning too! GMTA! LOL

I also ordered the optional clear and amber slip-on covers.

 

Some of the items that I liked:

1) Fully adjustable with a rheostat. 

2) The lights come to full power when you turn on your bright lights.

3) Slip-on covers in both colors that act as lens protectors.

4) Well designed brackets for my particular bike.

5) American made.

 

I also have a 3-circuit harness from Easter Beaver and a Kisan headlight modulator on the way. I’m going to power the Darlas thru the 3-circuit along with the new SW-Motech electrified tank bag that I installed today. Everything will be switched power. Since the Darlas have the “high beam switch” feature I’ll need to run the modulator on the low beam.

 

I’m so looking forward to this!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Miguel!
3 hours ago, kruuuzn said:

I also have a 3-circuit harness from Easter Beaver and a Kisan headlight modulator on the way. I’m going to power the Darlas thru the 3-circuit along with the new SW-Motech electrified tank bag that I installed today. Everything will be switched power.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Great. Please keep us informed of your progress. I will too. You going to mount it on the fender or the brake caliper?

 

Regarding the 3-circuit harness from Eastern Beaver, here's an alternative. $8.99 on Amazon. Lot of various SAE connectors on Amazon. It's the same connector used on battery tenders. 

Miguel

 

image.thumb.png.39ad787d15c1f3140afdecc60d3e1d4d.pngEaster

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kruuuzn

I’m hoping to mount them on the threaded hole that was shown in my picture. I’m guessing that was a fender hole on the earlier RTs but don’t know that for sure. I DO know I’ve never found a use for it in the last 15 years I’ve owned the bike.

 

But....I think I may have goofed up on something else.

I’m reading the Kisan instructions that came in the package and it says they recommend running their modulator on the high beam only.

This will kinda messes up my plans with the Darlas. The way I understand it you run the Darlas with your headlights on low beam. That allows you to adjust the brightness with the rheostat. Then when you switch to high beam the Darlas come to full power. And when you switch back to low beam the Darlas return to the previous setting. That’s a pretty cool setup if I’m understanding it correctly.

 

I’ve also got a question on the Cyclops LED bulb you mentioned. Do you have a separate high beam and low beam bulb on your RT like my ‘04? Did you need to buy TWO of those bulbs?

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Miguel!
42 minutes ago, kruuuzn said:

Kruuzn, see comments below in red.

 

I’m hoping to mount them on the threaded hole that was shown in my picture. I’m guessing that was a fender hole on the earlier RTs but don’t know that for sure. I DO know I’ve never found a use for it in the last 15 years I’ve owned the bike. I'm guessing that is the fender bolt. I can't see that location on my forks because of the fender is in front of it and there is a bolt hole on the fender that looks like it'd fit that location.  I think my local mechanic was recommending drilling that out. I'll ask him when I pick up the bulbs either Tu or W and let you know. 

 

But....I think I may have goofed up on something else.

I’m reading the Kisan instructions that came in the package and it says they recommend running their modulator on the high beam only.

This will kinda messes up my plans with the Darlas. The way I understand it you run the Darlas with your headlights on low beam. That allows you to adjust the brightness with the rheostat. Then when you switch to high beam the Darlas come to full power. And when you switch back to low beam the Darlas return to the previous setting. That’s a pretty cool setup if I’m understanding it correctly. I've looked at the Kisan in the past but never purchased one. You should give it a try and see how it works out. 

 

I'm not sure how I will hook the Darla up. I was out for 3-4 hour ride today and thinking about it. I wondered it there's a hookup and configuration that allows 0-100% rheostat control rather than 0-50% and then 100%. Reason it that I ride with high beam a lot during the day. I'd prefer the Darla to maintain its intensity regardless of lo/hi beam setting. The manual doesn't call out such a setting. I'll call Clearwater on Tu to clarify that. Perhaps once I get the Darla set up, I'll change my low/high beam headlight setting strategy.  

 

I’ve also got a question on the Cyclops LED bulb you mentioned. Do you have a separate high beam and low beam bulb on your RT like my ‘04? Did you need to buy TWO of those bulbs? The R1100RT has a single bulb that has a low and high beam "filament" in a single "bulb". In low beam, the two low beam LED runs at 38 Watts combined. In high beam, the low beam LEDs runs at about 19 Watts and two different high beam LEDs run at about 19 Watts. The bulb has a single metal projection with two LEDs on the top and two on bottom - see below.  Its pretty bright on both low and high beam and I'm happy with it. I think the 1150 has a different headlight setup uses two sperate bulbs. You'd have to dig into that. I'm glad to PM you my local, independent BMW mechanics contact info. They work on a lot of oilheads. They are quite helpful. It's just him, his wife, who is quite knowledgeable as well, their two boxer dogs (I'm sure the pun is intended) and their two young daughters. He used to work for a local BMW dealer as a mechanic but started his own biz when they closed. Nice people. 

 

Be safe out there this weekend!! I'll get another ride in Sunday or Monday. Cheers! Miguel

 

cyc_16_led_hea_bul_h4_3800_lum.jpg

 

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AndyS

STOP RIDING ON HIGH BEAM DURING THE DAY. IT IS OFFENSIVE TO OTHERS. MUCH LIKE SHOUTING OR TYPING IN CAPITALS.

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kruuuzn

I ride with my high beam also. I've never had anyone complain. Maybe my light is adjusted a little low.

 

Miguel,

 

Let me know what you find out from Clearwater.

 

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Miguel!

AndyS. Like I said above, we'll see if the Clearwater darla will change my lighting strategy WRT  hi beam usage during the day. Thx for the input. :)

 

Miguel!

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Miguel!

Is there a way to snake a pair of wires from the fuse box to the front  fairing without removing all the side fairing?

 

Miguel 

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AndyS

You can use a stiff wire passed along the frame member from front to rear. However, If I was looking to install a cable to run accessories, I would recommend taking the tank off and routing it exactly how it should be. It can then be gently cable tied in place to prevent any unwanted trappage (and therefore possible shorts from wires rubbing where they shouldn't).

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Miguel!

Thanks AndyS!

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tallman

Didn't open the thread cited. But, certain it referenced Kissan Signal MInder M5, for this era oilhead.

Converts turn signals into running lights, self cancel, etc.

Excellent option becasue in low light the turn signals are seen as side markers.

Front pointing acc lights don't give the bike this added profile from the side, IMO.

Having the rear turn signals as running lights also adds to conspicuity.

 

I'm also in the no daytime bright light for SOP.

I had 2 sets of forward facing lights (PIAA & MotoLights), turn signals as running light.

This allows plenty of conspicuity, and, saves the high beam for a flash as needed.

If one wonders, drive a cage, have someone follow you with your bike on high beam.

Best wishes.

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Miguel!

Thanks Tallman. I truly appreciate the comment and opinion about the daytime high beam. My practice is to use high beam when riding in the mountains where a motorcycle headlight could be confused for dappled light coming thru the tree or the sun gets into a drivers eyes. Upon seeing a car coming, I drop the HL back to low beam. It does not seem to have created any confusion for oncoming traffic and I don't think I've ever been flashed. I also have a Signal Minder and like it quite a bit. I think the forward facing Darla and the Signal Minder will make a very conspicuous bike and that is my key goal. Like I said in an earlier post, I'll be reevaluating my lighting strategy once I get the darlas installed. 

 

Cheers

Miguel

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Craig G.

Quick (related) question for the expertise in this thread.... 

 

I recently installed some DRLs that are apparently making my turn signals hard to see.  Are there any modules out there that will kill the DRLs while the turn signals are activated?  Similiar to what happens on newer cars/trucks when a headlight is turned off when a turn signal is activated.

 

Spent about an hour on the net researching and have not had any luck.

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Miguel!

 

 

1 hour ago, Craig G. said:

Are there any modules out there that will kill the DRLs while the turn signals are activated

I don't know of any module that will do what you are asking.

 

I've seen this interference talked about before. Most recommendations state that the running lights be "separated" from the turn signals to reduce the visual interference. Examples include mounting on the fender or the brake calipers. See this thread for some suggestions: thread a few months ago about running lights.

 

My bike is an R1100RT where the turn signals are integrated into the fairing at the end of the handlebars. My main concern is being conspicuous during the day. I avoid riding at night. So my plan is to mount amber running lights on the brake calipers or the fender mounting bolt. I don't remember who stated it but I latched onto it: "amber lights down low are the most obvious daytime running lights".

 

Best Miguel

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kruuuzn
On 6/17/2019 at 10:01 PM, ltljohn said:

 I used the 3 circuit setup from Eastern Beaver

 

I just received this little harness yesterday. Man, it's quality stuff. I'm impressed.

 

Where did you find room to mount this?

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Miguel!

 I think the manual recommends somewhere around the battery and fuse box so its out of the weather  You might also be able to tuck it under the front fairing someplace. I haven't picked mine up yet from the shop. 

 

Miguel

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kruuuzn

Another little tidbit:

I talked to Andy at Kisan and he told me modulating the low beam is no problem, especially since I bought the universal unit.

This will leave my high beam to bring the Darlas to full power when needed.

 

So I'll have the headlight modulating, the stock running lights in the fairing, and the amber Darlas.

THAT outta make me visible!

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ltljohn
10 hours ago, kruuuzn said:

 

I just received this little harness yesterday. Man, it's quality stuff. I'm impressed.

 

Where did you find room to mount this?

I mounted it under the seat

 

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Miguel!
55 minutes ago, ltljohn said:

I mounted it under the seat

 

Lt John. How long did it take you to install the lights. Did you mounted them on the brake calipers? Did you remove the fairing and gas tank to ruin the power wire?

 

Thx Miguel 

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ltljohn

I ran the lights while I was doing other service so I had the fairings off already.  I did lift the tank to route the wires to the front  I just ran them along the wiring harness so the did not get pinched.

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ESokoloff
On 6/27/2019 at 6:20 PM, Craig G. said:

Quick (related) question for the expertise in this thread.... 

 

I recently installed some DRLs that are apparently making my turn signals hard to see.  Are there any modules out there that will kill the DRLs while the turn signals are activated?  Similiar to what happens on newer cars/trucks when a headlight is turned off when a turn signal is activated.

 

Spent about an hour on the net researching and have not had any luck.

 

On my 2016 Zero DSR, I want to install 3w Amber led bolts in the handgards & use as DRL's as well as turn indicators. 

 

I THINK these will work so I ordered one via Amazon to try out. 

Should be delivered tomorrow so I will report back when I test it out. 

Likely these will not serve your purposes (only 1amp rated) but.....

These go to 11 (well, actually only 10amps but that should be plenty).

NOTE: Im ASSUMING you can configure this to work as a "Switchback" controller. 

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ESokoloff
45 minutes ago, ESokoloff said:

 

On my 2016 Zero DSR, I want to install 3w Amber led bolts in the handgards & use as DRL's as well as turn indicators.  (Switchback driver/controller). 

 

I THINK these will work so I ordered one via Amazon to try out. 

Should be delivered tomorrow so I will report back when I test it out. 

Likely these will not serve your purposes (only 1amp rated) but.....

These go to 11 (well, actually only 10amps but that should be plenty).

NOTE: Im ASSUMING you can configure this to work as a "Switchback" controller. 

These are also offered via Amazon.

Also likey will have to add isolating diodes to prevent feedback.

EDIT: Here is info on configuration of relay for DRL/Running lights... http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/documentation/RunningLight_Cancellation.pdf

 

 

45 minutes ago, ESokoloff said:

 

 

 

Quote

 

 

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Miguel!
2 hours ago, ltljohn said:

I ran the lights while I was doing other service so I had the fairings off already.  I did lift the tank to route the wires to the front  I just ran them along the wiring harness so the did not get pinched.

 

LtlJohn,

While I intended to do the Darla install myself, I'm just too short on time right now.  At the moment, I have more money than time so I asked my local independent BMW mechanic how much to install them for me. He's installed them on a number R1100RT's before. He quoted about 3 hours. Given that you have to remove all the fairings, at least lift the gas tank, route and secure all wires, install lights and the brightness control rheostat, this didn't sound out of line but thought I'd ask.  This sound reasonable to you? Thanks

 

Miguel

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kruuuzn

Three hours sounds reasonable to me.

 

i wonder where he plans on mounting the dimmer control!

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Miguel!
2 minutes ago, kruuuzn said:

Three hours sounds reasonable to me.

 

i wonder where he plans on mounting the dimmer control!

Thanks Kruuzn. Given I'd never taken off the fairings and am unfamiliar with what's under there and other aspects of wiring up the lights, I figured it would take me 5-6 hours which for me is most of the day which I'd rather spend riding than wrenching. Hence my query. 

 

I'm guessing he'd mount it to the left handlebar but I'll work that out with him and let you know. At the moment, I have an appt on July 11. 

 

Thanks for the comments.

 

Miguel

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ltljohn

3 hours sounds reasonable.

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Miguel!
3 hours ago, ltljohn said:

3 hours sounds reasonable.

Thx lt John. Miguel 

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kruuuzn

Where’s the best place to tap into some switched power?

 

Never mind gang. I found a pretty good thread on here.

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Miguel!

Kruuzn, My lights were installed yesterday. Took the mechanic 3 hours. He did a nice job. I"ll post pictures tmw. The Darla's are quite bright. They look brighter than my 10,000 lumen headlight because have a beam thats narrower than the headlight so look more intense when looking head on.. I'm happy with the results. BTW, the mechanic mounted the brightness knob on the left dash above the ABS button.  The lights are mounted on the fender bolt. Again pics tmw. 

 

I noticed and immediate result on people being more cautious about pulling in front of me. 

 

Regarding you post for switched power, I used the "add-a'circuit" device which shares a switched fuse in the fuse box. I didn't ask my mechanic what he did. He has installed quite a few of these lights. He wanted to install an on/off switch but I told him I didn't anticipate ever shutting them off. 

 

Miguel

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kruuuzn

Excellent!!! I'm looking forward to the pictures.

 

Did he tap the lights into your high beams?

 

I started mounting my lights today. I thought I would use the L-shaped bracket that came with the kit to mount the switch on top of the clutch fluid reservoir (I had my XM radio mounted there in the past). But guess what? They forgot to include it in the package. Gesh! I guess I'll go to Home Depot tomorrow and see if they have any stainless angle stock. I'll just make my own.

I've been debating if I want to tap into the high beams. It looks like I'll need to take the fairing apart to get at the wires.

 

 

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Miguel!
1 hour ago, kruuuzn said:

Coments in red. Excellent!!! I'm looking forward to the pictures. 

 

Did he tap the lights into your high beams? I didn't ask him. I needed to get going. I'll be seeing him next week for a new rear tire. 

 

I started mounting my lights today. I thought I would use the L-shaped bracket that came with the kit to mount the switch on top of the clutch fluid reservoir (I had my XM radio mounted there in the past). But guess what? They forgot to include it in the package. Gesh! I guess I'll go to Home Depot tomorrow and see if they have any stainless angle stock.My HD doesn't. You should probably just ask them to overnight them to you. I'll just make my own.

I've been debating if I want to tap into the high beams. It looks like I'll need to take the fairing apart to get at the wires. Take pictures if you do. 

Miguel

1 hour ago, kruuuzn said:

 

 

 

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kruuuzn

I went ahead and dropped the nose off the fairing to wire the Darla tap and my new headlight modulator. Removing the nose couldn't be any easier. Just remove the headlight and the black cover then the fairing. It conveniently hangs on a heavy grounding strap on the left side so you don't need to unplug any wiring. 

The little white wire is the Darla tapped into the high beam. You can also see where I broke into the low beam wire for the modulator.

There's also a pic showing where I mounted the Darla control above the clutch reservoir. I couldn't find any stainless angle locally this morning so I bought mild steel at the hardware. I still need to give it a couple coats of good paint.

I spent the day running wires for the Darla, modulator, and my new powered tank bag. I've got everything wired back to the top of the filter box where the Eastern Beaver 3-circuit will reside. I drilled a hole and mounted the Eastern Beaver relay to the top of the snorkel tube adjacent to the filter box. I need to run to town in the morning to try and find a crimping tool to attached the plugs that came with the 3-circuit. It seemed like such a waste to cut the nice relays and fuse holders off BOTH the Darla and tank bag wiring. All of that will be handled by the 3-circuit.

 

So......now I need to figure out how to power the 3-circuit relay with some switched power. I came across a thread last night with lots of info but I'll be darned if I can find it now.

 

Can somebody walk me through the options? I've read some people tap into the tail light wire. Is that a good option? Where's the best place to get to it? The Eastern Beaver relay wire isn't very long so it wouldn't reach into the tail of the bike if that would be necessary.

Other places I've read to tap into a fuse. How would you get the wire into the sealed fuse box? Can you come up from the bottom? How do you physically make the connection to the fuse? If you use a fuse what about the ground wire on the relay?

Question, questions, questions......

 

Thanks gang.

 

 

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Miguel!

Kruuzn. Looking good. 

 

Here's some picture. I'll send more tmw. It is a bit of a chore to get the bike out of the garage to take good pics. 

 

Picture one is the fender mounted Darla. My mechanic told me a couple months ago that you have to drill out the fender to make this work. I didn't quiz him on that so don't really know what that means tho I suspect Clearwater uses a larger bolt. I note that he didn't put the loop in the wire recommended by the Darla installation manual. I don' t know why. I may cut a few zip ties, make some slack for a loop and re-zip tie it. 

 

Picture two is of the brightness knob. He drill hole in the dash which looks clean to my eye. 

 

Picture three shows the fused wire from the +12 Volts from the battery. The other wires to the battery got to an SAE connector on the left side of the bike for my battery tender. I also made up a battery charger cable that plugs into the SAE connector is I ever need it. 

 

Picture four shows a clever little device called Add-a-Circuit. The black gizmo with the red wire coming out the right side of it and the yellow fuse. There are a number of manufacturers on Amazon. I just showed one. The Add-a-Circuit replaces one of your switched fuses. It has two fuse position. You put the replaced fuse in one of the fuse positions. The other fuse is connected to there red pigtail. In my case, that red wire is spliced to the heater wire from my Corbin seat. 

 

I hope that helps. I'll take a few more pictures tomorrow if I have time to go for a ride (which is my plan).

 

Best

MIguel

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kruuuzn

Thanks for posting the picture on that fuse tap. It's perfect. I guess I didn't realize that component was available.

I just returned from the auto parts store after buying one.

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Miguel!

👍

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kruuuzn

I’ve got my wiring completed!

And it all works as advertised.I like how the Darlas are triggered by the high beams. That fuse tap made it way too easy. Here’s a pic of my setup with the Eastern Beaver 3-circuit. 

 

Now its its time to reassemble. Thanks for everyone’s input and help.

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kruuuzn

Miguel,

Did you purchase the lens protectors that come with the clear and amber lenses?

The amber lenses look yellow but there's definitely a green tint to them when you turn on the lights.

A couple of years ago the county snow plow trucks here started changing their yellow flashing lights to green. There was a big write up in the paper about how the green has been scientifically proven to be more noticeable.

Interesting huh?

 

 

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Miguel!

Kruuzn, You talking about these? Yes I did get them. The lights don't look green to me tho. But I haven't been out when it's dark. I keep my bike at a second house (11 mines away) and I don't ride at night. 

 

I do know that your eye is not equally sensitive to all colors  and that its most sensitive to green. I'm sure there's an evolutionary reason for it but I don't know what it is.

 

Lights look great! Congrats on getting them successfully installed. 

 

I don't know what the eastern beaver 3-circuit module is or does. I'll look it up. 

 

Miguel

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Miguel!
On 7/17/2019 at 3:59 AM, kruuuzn said:

Did you purchase the lens protectors that come with the clear and amber lenses?

The amber lenses look yellow but there's definitely a green tint to them when you turn on the lights.

 

Interestingly enough, my wife was watching me come down the driveway the other day and said, " your new lights have a green tinge to them"!! Miguel

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