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Decaf

R1150 Spin On Oil Filler Cap - Not Tabbed

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Decaf

2002 R1150R, 60K on the clock.

 

The Story

Soooooo....

 

After not having luck selling my bike, I'v been renting it out. After having many good experiences, I ran into a bad one. The gentleman who rented it hit the blue ridge parkway but called me 2 days later to say that the oil filler cap had come off and the bike was spewing oil. Oh no! Later he said he was able to get a bolt approximately the same size and keep riding. Great! He called me a day later to say that my oil sight glass was leaking...he looked it up...it was common. It was bad enough that I told him to find a safe place to leave it (restaurant) and I would reimburse his bus ticket home. I felt pretty bad about ruining this dudes trip but the bike has 60K so I can't really control those things. The oil cap however seemed strange, but I left it alone.

 

The bike was at that point, 400 miles away, so I listed it on Uship.com, and had a shipper willing to pick it up in and deliver it to my driveway for significantly less then the cost of a tow. I got the bike home, I ordered a new oil filler cap and a sight glass. I cracked the 1st sight glass with my impatience. I ordered another sight glass and successfully installed it. 

 

The oil cap however...I do not have a stock one. All the stock oil filler caps I ordered have two tabs at the bottom. Mine was just a spin on oil filler cap. Seems the previous owner got fancy...

 

I am still riding the bike, just with a giant bolt instead of an oil filler cap. But man, would I like to get a replacement!

 

The Question

The oil filler cap I had was a metal cap with a hex wrench opening on top.

Creative Concepts on Ebay sells one that looks similar but when I contacted them they said theirs had two tabs at the bottom. 

Wunderlich sells the aftermarket oil filler cap but that one looks nothing like what I had.

 

1. Does anyone have any experience or advice? It doesn't even have to related to my problem. Weight Loss Advice is acceptable. 

2. Is the R1200 oil filler cap hole the same size as the R1150? I see many spin on caps for the R1200.

 


Best,

Sanka

 

creative concepts.JPG

Wunderlich.JPG

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dirtrider
7 minutes ago, Decaf said:

2002 R1150R, 60K on the clock.

 

The Story

Soooooo....

 

After not having luck selling my bike, I'v been renting it out. After having many good experiences, I ran into a bad one. The gentleman who rented it hit the blue ridge parkway but called me 2 days later to say that the oil filler cap had come off and the bike was spewing oil. Oh no! Later he said he was able to get a bolt approximately the same size and keep riding. Great! He called me a day later to say that my oil sight glass was leaking...he looked it up...it was common. It was bad enough that I told him to find a safe place to leave it (restaurant) and I would reimburse his bus ticket home. I felt pretty bad about ruining this dudes trip but the bike has 60K so I can't really control those things. The oil cap however seemed strange, but I left it alone.

 

The bike was at that point, 400 miles away, so I listed it on Uship.com, and had a shipper willing to pick it up in and deliver it to my driveway for significantly less then the cost of a tow. I got the bike home, I ordered a new oil filler cap and a sight glass. I cracked the 1st sight glass with my impatience. I ordered another sight glass and successfully installed it. 

 

The oil cap however...I do not have a stock one. All the stock oil filler caps I ordered have two tabs at the bottom. Mine was just a spin on oil filler cap. Seems the previous owner got fancy...

 

I am still riding the bike, just with a giant bolt instead of an oil filler cap. But man, would I like to get a replacement!

 

The Question

The oil filler cap I had was a metal cap with a hex wrench opening on top.

Creative Concepts on Ebay sells one that looks similar but when I contacted them they said theirs had two tabs at the bottom. 

Wunderlich sells the aftermarket oil filler cap but that one looks nothing like what I had.

 

1. Does anyone have any experience or advice? It doesn't even have to related to my problem. Weight Loss Advice is acceptable. 

2. Is the R1200 oil filler cap hole the same size as the R1150? I see many spin on caps for the R1200.

 


Best,

Sanka

 

 

 

 

 

Morning Decaf

 

It seems like you have some choices.

 

My first recommendation would be to simply install the OEM BMW fill neck, cap, & "O" rings (well under $20 for everything). That would make future replacement parts easier to find (especially if you continue renting the bike out)

 

Or-- just buy an entire new aftermarket  locking cap assembly (BMW or aftermarket).

 

Or--  keep trying to find & source parts for your existing oil filler assembly (with enough time & research you might find the parts)

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Decaf

You know...I don't know why I never just considered buying the entire stock fill neck. Duh!

 

Thanks, Dirtrider. Can you suggest a place to purchase the whole thing? I only see the cap and the boot. Since I have never seen a stock one, I dont know what all the pieces are...

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dirtrider
1 hour ago, Decaf said:

You know...I don't know why I never just considered buying the entire stock fill neck. Duh!

 

Thanks, Dirtrider. Can you suggest a place to purchase the whole thing? I only see the cap and the boot. Since I have never seen a stock one, I dont know what all the pieces are...

 

 

Morning Decaf

 

Go here (A&S BMW)   1150R engine page        https://www.ascycles.com/bmw/2001/R1150R/Engine/Cylinder head cover - Double-Ignition.html#PartsTable

 

You need #    5, 6, 7, 8

 

Usually free shipping but not very fast shipping. 

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Decaf

Well, they were fast shipping. But I forget the charm of mechanical endeavors.


I received the stock parts, took off the valve cover, only to realize there was no easy way to get this blasted aftermarket oil cap off. It had two small screws but they were flat! There was no indents for a tiny screwdriver (nevermind I could only reach one of them). After trying for an hour, I decided I'll come back to this...so I screwed the valve cover on...wait for it...and I snapped a valve cover bolt off....wait for it....in a slot i had already helicoiled! AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! So now I have a sheared off bolt stuck inside a helicoiled thread. And still no oil cover cap.

 

I went inside to contemplate what life choices brought me to this point. 

 

I said OK, how about I search for a valve cover instead of a single bolt and a oil cap. LUCK! I found an ebay seller selling a 2002 R1150RT right valve cover with the wunderlich oil filler cap on it. I talked him down to $70. Please, Dirt Rider, tell me the RT is compatible with the R. Please...

 

So as I await my new valve cover, I am methodically looking over all the posts on removing this bolt from my threads.

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dirtrider
8 minutes ago, Decaf said:

Well, they were fast shipping. But I forget the charm of mechanical endeavors.


I received the stock parts, took off the valve cover, only to realize there was no easy way to get this blasted aftermarket oil cap off. It had two small screws but they were flat! There was no indents for a tiny screwdriver (nevermind I could only reach one of them). After trying for an hour, I decided I'll come back to this...so I screwed the valve cover on...wait for it...and I snapped a valve cover bolt off....wait for it....in a slot i had already helicoiled! AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! So now I have a sheared off bolt stuck inside a helicoiled thread. And still no oil cover cap.

 

I went inside to contemplate what life choices brought me to this point. 

 

I said OK, how about I search for a valve cover instead of a single bolt and a oil cap. LUCK! I found an ebay seller selling a 2002 R1150RT right valve cover with the wunderlich oil filler cap on it. I talked him down to $70. Please, Dirt Rider, tell me the RT is compatible with the R. Please...

 

So as I await my new valve cover, I am methodically looking over all the posts on removing this bolt from my threads.

 

Afternoon Decaf   

 

The 2002 1150R  & 2002 1150RT do use the same valve covers.

 

Can't you simply drill the old oil filler assembly out  with strategically placed drill holes?

 

Where is the valve cover bolt broken? It there anything sticking up that you can get a tool on? Is the little stop collar still on the cylinder head side or did that break off with the top part?

 

If broken off flush then the best way that I have found to remove is to center drill with a small drill bit, THEN switch to progressively larger left hand drill bits. As the L/H drill bit size  gets larger usually one will stick enough in the broken part to screw the broken piece out on the spinning L/H drill bit.

 

 

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Decaf

Thank you, Dirt Rider!

 

Its just not in a good place to drill out. Its actually very well made, but that makes drilling out those screw difficult. I will post pics when I try (Since I now have a separate valve cover).

 

Nothing is sticking out. The bolt has broken off flush recessed in the hole. I will use the technique of using a centering bit to make a hole, and then use left handed drill bits to spin it out. I will go purchase left handed drill bits as Id never heard of them before this issue.

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AndyS

In addition to DR's comment about drilling out the broken bolt. It is worth the couple of £'s to get something like a BS1 or BS2 centre drill bit. That will make keeping things centered much easier.

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Decaf

So I proceeded to center punch it and start drilling. It never caught. I ended up drilling the entire damn thing out. Then I helicoiled it again and am using the R/T Valve Cover. I just didn't realize the valve cover caps are different.

 

 

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dirtrider
4 hours ago, Decaf said:

So I proceeded to center punch it and start drilling. It never caught. I ended up drilling the entire damn thing out. Then I helicoiled it again and am using the R/T Valve Cover. I just didn't realize the valve cover caps are different

 

 

Afternoon Decaf

 

That valve cover difference isn't an (R) vs (RT) difference it is single spark vs the later dual spark cover  difference.

 

Early single spark engine uses a different cover than the later dual spark engine as the early single spark uses a spark plug wire  & the later dual spark engine used a coil-on-plug on the upper spark plug so the cover is different in the spark plug area.

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Decaf

Thank you, gentleman. I rode it to work today and no leaks, fuss (so far), so I am happy with the result if not the cost. But great lessons usually dont come cheap...

 

 I plan to ride without a spark plug cover (outside of rain) until I can source one at a reasonable price. I really wanted to get this up and about as I am planning on doing one of those 2 day slow speed skills courses over the next two weeks and I'd prefer to use this bike, so thank you for the help!

 

Best,

Sanka

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dirtrider
2 hours ago, Decaf said:

Thank you, gentleman. I rode it to work today and no leaks, fuss (so far), so I am happy with the result if not the cost. But great lessons usually dont come cheap...

 

 I plan to ride without a spark plug cover (outside of rain) until I can source one at a reasonable price. I really wanted to get this up and about as I am planning on doing one of those 2 day slow speed skills courses over the next two weeks and I'd prefer to use this bike, so thank you for the help!

 

Best,

Sanka

 

 

Morning Decaf

 

You need the spark plug cover for the 2003-2005 1150 twin spark engine. They are usually all over E-Bay (both used & Chinese new).

 

Look closely at the part picture as some very early 2003 1150 engines were still single spark.

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Decaf

Well, this just wont die. I'm on my second rental after this condundrum and the the new cylinder head cover has started leaking on someone while they rode it from DC to NYC. I am unfortunately not able to get there so I said go ahead and drop that thing off at a shop (knowing how brutal this was about to be).

 

The shop owner, a royal d*ck, and Im from NYC so I already had some tolerance but this guy is up there. I asked him what he did, he says he reinstalled a new gasket, oil and filter change. When he drained the oil he saw some pieces of plastic which he thinks are the timing chain guide. He said the rear wheel has a few mm of play and that the rear brake pads are worn. He deemed it unrideable and said he wants $325 cash for this effort. I appreciated the work, but not that bill.

 

Well, now I am in a condundrum, hard to get up there with my schedule...hard to ask the renter to ride it back.

 

Anyway, there is a question in this story---the highlight in bold, how bad is that? I am familiar with rear wheel play and possibility of needing a new bearing, rear brake pads are easy (even if i just dropped in and changed them on the sidewalk).

 

Trying to figure out if its time to cut my losses as we all know that the R's arent selling like Gold. I do like that 1100S.... But I digress.

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dirtrider
3 hours ago, Decaf said:

 When he drained the oil he saw some pieces of plastic which he thinks are the timing chain guide. He said the rear wheel has a few mm of play and that the rear brake pads are worn. He deemed it unrideable and said he wants $325 cash for this effort. I appreciated the work, but not that bill.

 

Anyway, there is a question in this story---the highlight in bold, how bad is that? I am familiar with rear wheel play and possibility of needing a new bearing, rear brake pads are easy (even if i just dropped in and changed them on the sidewalk).

 

 

Afternoon Decaf

 

Broken cam guide rails are REAL BAD as  in most cases the engine has to be removed & disassembled to repair correctly.

 

But we really don't know if what he found IS pieces of cam chain guide, or something else, or maybe he is just lying to you.

 

In any case, without seeing the issue yourself, or getting someone that you trust to look at it then you are at the mercy of whoever has the bike now.

 

Maybe list it for sale locally  in the area that the bike is at now, then take whatever (or best offer) that you get & be done with it.  (explain possible issues to possible buyer)

 

Or find a low cost motorcycle shipping company & have it shipped back to you (but, low cost shipping is usually pretty slow).

 

Where is the bike at now? Maybe someone that lives in that area will make you an offer (or look at it for you).

 

 

 

 

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Decaf

It's a done deal. I contacted a buddy that lived up in Brooklyn ("where you been? I'm getting married! Can you help me with that sv650?") And he went to go look at it. He paid the bill and drove it around town and noted that the engine sounded terrible and had trouble with power.

 

This looks like the end of the road for the roadster! This is sad as it was an amazingly good commutter for my 10 mile trip. I should have just kept it at that way but it's no one fault but my own.

 

DirtRider, your responses are always a pleasure to read! Thanks for the sanity check.

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