low beam failure/warning light

[barryNmarin]

My 2018 RT flashed a warning light indicating a front light failure.  Upon checking I discovered the low beam had failed so I figured that would be an easy fix and I replaced the bad bulb with a new one from my local dealer.   The actual replacement wasn't much of a problem but when I tested the new bulb it didn't work and the warning lamp is still lit.   Now I'm stumped.   All of the other front light bulbs, high beams, parking, etc. are working fine. Yes, I did double check the installation of the bulb, clips and plug; all secure and fitted.

I'd really like to sort this out without having to take the bike in for a dealer visit, especially since I was hoping to take off on a long road trip in the next few days.

If anyone has any bright ideas I'll be glad to hear them.  Help!

[dirtrider]

6 hours ago, barryNmarin said:

My 2018 RT flashed a warning light indicating a front light failure.  Upon checking I discovered the low beam had failed so I figured that would be an easy fix and I replaced the bad bulb with a new one from my local dealer.   The actual replacement wasn't much of a problem but when I tested the new bulb it didn't work and the warning lamp is still lit.   Now I'm stumped.   All of the other front light bulbs, high beams, parking, etc. are working fine. Yes, I did double check the installation of the bulb, clips and plug; all secure and fitted.

I'd really like to sort this out without having to take the bike in for a dealer visit, especially since I was hoping to take off on a long road trip in the next few days.

If anyone has any bright ideas I'll be glad to hear them.  Help!

 

Morning Barry

 

A number of possibilities on this, are you SURE that the new bulb is good? It's not unheard of to get a defective bulb right out of the box. You might need to remove the new bulb & test it off-bike.

 

Depending on the bulb's glass type, sometimes  touching the bulb glass with your fingers can leave an oily film & cause the bulb to fracture at first usage. (never touch bulb glass during install, or clean it with alcohol if in doubt) 

 

If the bulb is good then is there anything else connected to that side bulb circuit? Sometimes an add-on fuse box will use the low beam circuit as a trigger for the fuse box power relay. If there is something shorting on that side then the chassis computer will shut that side  circuit down & illuminate the failure light.

 

Otherwise look for a pinched wire on that side low beam.

 

Or even a possibility that the chassis computer has issues with that particular low beam circuit.

 

 

[barryNmarin]

Thanks Dirtrider, you're  always there with timely advise.   All is well and the warning light gone and bulb shining brightly.   I removed the bulb and it worked fine on the bench test.   I reinstalled and it worked fine.    Maybe I wasn't holding my jaw at the correct angle when I installed it the first couple of times.   Anyway all's well that ends well.  I now have a couple of spare H7 bulbs in my side case.

[longjohn]

I got about 14kmi out of the oem. Why is Bmw still installing h7 bulbs. Jfc. 

[LAF]

On my 15 RT I tried for hours and literally had bloody knuckles.  I took it to the dealer with my own bulb and they charged me a 1/2 hour labor or 55 bucks.  At that point it was so worth it as the next step was me kicking it off the side stand

 

On my GS I have LED and you RT guys are getting it soon.  I love it and am so happy I dont have to deal with that clip setup of the RT.  Of course double edge sword, the LED light is 1800.00 to replace.

 

I just dont get why BMW stayed with that setup so long.  They do eat bulbs on a 9-12K schedule it seems.  Really one of the few things I really bitched about on the RT. 

 

We really do ride extraordinary motorcycles.

[dirtrider]

14 hours ago, longjohn said:

I got about 14kmi out of the oem. Why is Bmw still installing h7 bulbs. Jfc. 

 

Morning longjohn

 

You will have to ask BMW why they stayed with the H-7 as only they know for sure.

 

My personal guess would be it is due to a few reasons. First, the H-7 is cheap, easy to obtain in mass quantities, & produces a fair amount of light output for the low cost.

 

Second, the H-7 is already certified & legal in all countries & in all U.S. states  that  BMW sells motorcycles in (this is large factor as changing bulb design then re-certification is not only expensive but time & labor intensive). So  new bulb/reflector  designs are usually saved for the more expensive up-level lighting packages as that eventually pays for itself through higher retail prices on up-level lighting.   

 

Third, (smaller factor)    is that the BMW reflector & lens is set up to work with the H-7 so changing would take a re-design/re-certification  in that area. (why spend money when what you currently have is working)

 

Nothing really wrong with the H-7 (as far as conventional bulbs go) it is how BMW chose to use them that is the biggest problem. BMW runs their H-7 full power/ full brightness ALL the time that the engine is running.  Auto companies have made them work OK but some of the major auto companies run the H-7's in series (about 1/2 power) during the day when the H-7 is used for DRL (Day Light Running) lights. Then back to running in parallel for night time lighting.  (this more than doubles the bulb life) 

 

To me (personally) BMW's biggest mistake in using the H-7 is it they should have used the slightly more expensive H-7 LL (Long Life) bulb as those usually last considerably longer in normal use.  

 

Also (to me personally)  BMW's next major mistake is in not turning the headlight on UNTIL the engine is started.  As it is now the H-7 stays off & cold-bulb until engine start, so the cold bulb gets instantly hit with 14.4 volts after engine start (the H-7 typically fail right after engine start). If they would have brought the bulb on at key-on 12-12.7 volts or so then it would warm up slightly before getting hit with the full engine running higher system voltage. The computer could still turn it off during cranking (like the 1100/1150 bikes did). 

 

BMW also gets a slight (unintended)  gain in using the H-7 as it brings riders into the dealer for routine H-7 bulb replacements. BMW pays big money to run ads in magazines, on the internet, &  on TV just to get riders into their showrooms. With using H-7 bulbs they basically get BMW riders (their intended audience) into the showroom without spending anything extra & might even make an extra  buck on the deal. 

 

 

[realshelby]

DR, you are right about the cost and proven use of the H-7. I get that from a manufacturers standpoint. 

 

But I simply cannot forgive the single low beam!!!!  90% of your time is with low beams on ( around here anyway ) and a single low beam is NOT adequate for night riding. Tape over one of your cars lights and see how safe that feels! My Oilhead RT had two low beam bulbs and had much better lights on low beam. 

[92Merc]

What would have made more sense to me is dual low beam bulbs.  Then when on high, leave one of the low beams running and turn on the high beam bulb...

[longjohn]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

 

Morning longjohn

 

You will have to ask BMW why they stayed with the H-7 as only they know for sure.

 

My personal guess would be it is due to a few reasons. First, the H-7 is cheap, easy to obtain in mass quantities, & produces a fair amount of light output for the low cost.

 

Second, the H-7 is already certified & legal in all countries & in all U.S. states  that  BMW sells motorcycles in (this is large factor as changing bulb design then re-certification is not only expensive but time & labor intensive). So  new bulb/reflector  designs are usually saved for the more expensive up-level lighting packages as that eventually pays for itself through higher retail prices on up-level lighting.   

 

Third, (smaller factor)    is that the BMW reflector & lens is set up to work with the H-7 so changing would take a re-design/re-certification  in that area. (why spend money when what you currently have is working)

 

Nothing really wrong with the H-7 (as far as conventional bulbs go) it is how BMW chose to use them that is the biggest problem. BMW runs their H-7 full power/ full brightness ALL the time that the engine is running.  Auto companies have made them work OK but some of the major auto companies run the H-7's in series (about 1/2 power) during the day when the H-7 is used for DRL (Day Light Running) lights. Then back to running in parallel for night time lighting.  (this more than doubles the bulb life) 

 

To me (personally) BMW's biggest mistake in using the H-7 is it they should have used the slightly more expensive H-7 LL (Long Life) bulb as those usually last considerably longer in normal use.  

 

Also (to me personally)  BMW's next major mistake is in not turning the headlight on UNTIL the engine is started.  As it is now the H-7 stays off & cold-bulb until engine start, so the cold bulb gets instantly hit with 14.4 volts after engine start (the H-7 typically fail right after engine start). If they would have brought the bulb on at key-on 12-12.7 volts or so then it would warm up slightly before getting hit with the full engine running higher system voltage. The computer could still turn it off during cranking (like the 1100/1150 bikes did). 

 

BMW also gets a slight (unintended)  gain in using the H-7 as it brings riders into the dealer for routine H-7 bulb replacements. BMW pays big money to run ads in magazines, on the internet, &  on TV just to get riders into their showrooms. With using H-7 bulbs they basically get BMW riders (their intended audience) into the showroom without spending anything extra & might even make an extra  buck on the deal. 

 

 

Good morning DR
 

All of your points are valid. Thanks so much. I get frustrated every time a bulb burns out, mostly because the previous make of motorcycle I had used 1 bulb in 15yrs/100k+mi. (H4 I believe). 
 

Some hexhead users do a partial dismantling of the mirror/dash assembly when replacing their bulbs. Can a similarly straight forward procedure be done on the wetheads, or would it be much more involved?
 

 

 

[Skywagon]

To DR’s point about 14v at startup there is a workaround. When you turn on the ignition before start you can hit the high beam trigger or the brakes. This will cause the low beam to come on. Then start. You can decide how long you want the bulb to warm before start. 

[dirtrider]

5 hours ago, longjohn said:

Good morning DR
 

All of your points are valid. Thanks so much. I get frustrated every time a bulb burns out, mostly because the previous make of motorcycle I had used 1 bulb in 15yrs/100k+mi. (H4 I believe). 
 

Some hexhead users do a partial dismantling of the mirror/dash assembly when replacing their bulbs. Can a similarly straight forward procedure be done on the wetheads, or would it be much more involved?
 

 

 

 

Morning longjohn

 

I suppose you could take the front end apart, I haven't ever found that necessary as I can do the headlight bulb replacement in just a few minutes each (wetheads are more difficult though),  but I mostly work by feel. I do look into the lens from the front to be sure the bulb is properly seated.

 

Probably the thing to do is ask how others are doing those bulbs (seems everybody does them a bit differently) then using that info use that procedure, or combination of procedures, that work FOR YOU. 

 

Or, go watch a dealer tec, (but look quickly) as they are in & out in flash.  

 

[jamesptzbmw]

I am new to the BMW world and find the forums reassuring when I encounter a problem.  Seems everyone does.  I bought an almost new 2015 RT 1200 with only 6500 miles on it.  Sat in the other fellows garage for 3 years.  I have ridden it for 4500 miles and noticed the bulb failure warning.  I added after market LED lamps for added visibility exposure, and I never ride at night.  But I need to pass the vehicle inspection so I need the low beam functional.  After reading multiple posts, I tackled the problem of "working blind" from the front of the bike.  One suggestion I read proved to be VERY helpful.  After removing one side of the clip holder I just couldn't get the other side to release.  I retrieved an old golf club shaft and was able with the flashlight to position it on the clip and get it to release.  From the sounds of things, I can expect more light failures in the not too distant future.  Will keep the old golf shaft handy.  I thought about replacing the light with a LED, but after reading many forum posts I did not as it sounded like it wasn't worth the potential problems I would encounter.  And with the after market lights I added, I don't really need the additional light in the light unit anyway.  After market LEDs can be added for $200-$400.  Seems like a more practical solution than adding LEDs to the original light bar housing.

[jamesptzbmw]

I bought the Denali DM Tri Optic LED lights and they were easy to install.  They are small and produce loads of light.  I had to bypass the Cambus system and wired directly to battery, not a problem.  Just had to buy a small motorcycle battery connector from local automotive store.

[strataj]

You should check your local law, headlights are required in most states.  Installing an LED bulb just takes some time, not hard to do.  There are posts with step by step directions available.