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How long does the Wethead suspension last?


RecentConvert

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RecentConvert

My R1200RT (2014) seems to be riding a bit low and soft in suspension.  It has 37000 miles and 90% of those miles are from riding two up and loaded.  How does one know when it is time to think about replacement?  We have also put on a few lbs since last year which likely contributes to the softness.

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I have 38K on my 2013 R1200GSW and have felt them degrade over the last year. I plan on replacing them with the Tractive shocks in early August since I do not ride a lot because of the heat here in GA in August.

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I have 40 some thousand on my RT. Just came back from a trip to North Carolina where I enjoyed the handling of the RT as it was meant to be....

 

I was telling my Son that I was quite surprised at how well the suspension was holding up. I don't doubt there is a bit of difference from new, but honestly I don't know where it is. 

 

The best thing I ever done for  my suspension was during a major service I tried recalibrating it with the GS 911. What a difference that made!

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On 6/11/2019 at 1:10 PM, realshelby said:

The best thing I ever done for  my suspension was during a major service I tried recalibrating it with the GS 911. What a difference that made!

 

What was/were the noted improvement after recalibration?

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Difference in damper performance lifespan depends a lot on how hard it is being worked.  GS's with lots of dirt washboard road miles and RT's loaded like a pack mule all the time should degrade sooner than suspensions not worked as hard.   Maybe if one could figure out a way to calculate something like a full stroke equivalent number you could compare.  To me this is like tire mileage discussions.  ERWV (everyone's results will vary).

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Suspension is so subjective. Even when there is objective data, such as travel and acceleration sensors, it’s hard to compare. Rider preferences, rider style, road condition, rider (and passenger) weight(s), etc also play into it. OEM build quality and tolerances  might vary between units as well. 

 

Realshelby by has a great suggestion with regard to recalibrating with a GS-911WIFI, assuming you have access to one or are willing to pay the dealer to do it. This seems like an inexpensive, simple and noninvasive way to see if you feel any change/improvement. If you don’t notice any difference, then if you chose to, you may look into changing. 

 

I chose to change out mine with TracTive units. I only have 23K miles. I wanted better response on smaller bumps (less high speed compression damping) and more low speed compression damping than the OEM units. When I changed them out, both my dampers were leaking some oil. I haven’t had a chance to put a lot of miles on them yet but I will this weekend. I’ll be riding over several passes south of Lake Tahoe!  

 

The rear TracTive uses the OEM spring and “preload adjuster”, but the static preload setup can be set for your weight and if you ride two up most of the time. So this could be a very helpful feature for RecentConvert. I rode with my preload set at two helmets but with TracTive, I was told to set it to one helmet. This ability to integrate with the OEM menu and wonderwheel to be able to adjust the suspension easily was a huge plus for me, unlike other brands. It also means when I ride two up, my rear suspension won’t sag as much. 

 

Initial impression based asked on a short ride is that it does seem to perform as I wanted. It’s not dramatic. Am I “wanting” to feel the differences?  Maybe, but I don’t think so. Is it worth it?  Too early to tell since I have ridden so few miles. This weekend will be a great test. 

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I too had the suspension re-calibrated and it made a remarkable difference to the ride. I would be surprised if your suspension is knackered at only 37000 miles.

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10 hours ago, Paul De said:

 

What was/were the noted improvement after recalibration?

Yes, there was a noticeable change. And it was a welcome improvement. In my case the bike actually rides smoother in "road" and more firm in "soft". Dynamic didn't seem a lot different, but I don't run there unless flogging the bike. 

 

I assume, and it is just that, that the recalibration correctly sets the sensors for the actual ride height the bike runs at and therefore has the correct damping/preload for that. Was mine off by a lot? I don't know, but having done it I would do it to another one asap. 

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48 minutes ago, realshelby said:

Yes, there was a noticeable change. And it was a welcome improvement. In my case the bike actually rides smoother in "road" and more firm in "soft". Dynamic didn't seem a lot different, but I don't run there unless flogging the bike. 

 

I assume, and it is just that, that the recalibration correctly sets the sensors for the actual ride height the bike runs at and therefore has the correct damping/preload for that. Was mine off by a lot? I don't know, but having done it I would do it to another one asap. 

Did you do the recalibrate procedure with the bike on the center stand, with the wheels in the air? Or fully loaded with the bike resting on the wheels?

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When I had mine done, I was complaining if a very harsh ride. The recalibration improved that significantly, but it is nowhere near the magic carpet ride of my 1150.

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1 hour ago, AndyS said:

When I had mine done, I was complaining if a very harsh ride. The recalibration improved that significantly, but it is nowhere near the magic carpet ride of my 1150.

Two considerations. First is that you may be running the "GT" or heavier sidewall tires on this RT. They ride a LOT more firm. I am running 35/39 in the T-31 GT's after finding the rear seems to last longer than at 42 and it rides and feels much better leaned way over at these pressures. 

 

Second, and I had Ohlins on my '04 RT and agree it had a great ride, I think this Wethead suspension handles two up and/or heavy luggage much better than the Ohlins equipped Oilhead did. You can go to "soft" which is a smoother ride than the Oilhead, but ONLY good to use on very smooth pavement. In "road", where my RT stays most of the time, the Oilhead was a smoother ride. Yet I think the Wethead feels way better leaned over hard. Everything is a compromise. 

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On 6/13/2019 at 6:56 AM, realshelby said:

In my case the bike actually rides smoother in "road" and more firm in "soft". Dynamic didn't seem a lot different, but I don't run there unless flogging the bike. 

 

Thanks realshelby, that is great info.  And like you my '15RT is too underdamped on Soft and not as plush on Normal as I would wish for.  In fact Normal is pert-near the same feel as Dynamic now.  So, next service day I will go do that procedure.   I haven't used my GS-911WiFi yet so I  assume once on the center stand and in the correct menu it is simply clicking on the calibrate icon and wait for it to indicate it is done. 

 

I don't expect it to be as good as you might get from a premium aftermarket suspension, but the harshness I experience on Normal now is enough that softer sidewall tires likely won't get me to a supple controlled.  In any case the right place to start is to be sure the current system is running to its full potential.

 

21 hours ago, AndyS said:

When I had mine done, I was complaining if a very harsh ride. The recalibration improved that significantly, but it is nowhere near the magic carpet ride of my 1150.

Right. I put Ohlins my '99RT and while those shocks didn't have adjustment for compression damping, along with proper springs for my typical load, it was plush and yet well controlled.   I suspect the OEM dampers seem too heavily compression damped because they have single rate valving,     Personal preferences aside, as Paul4450 points out, setting a suspension up right can be tricky.  If you simply go to no compression damping but need a heavy spring with heavy rebound damping you'll risk the suspension packing down.  Haha, in the extreme,, I could imagine as the road gets rougher the lower the bike would ride on its suspension and then lift as you slowed and came to a stop.

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RecentConvert

After reading of the potential improvement by having the suspension calibrated, I called the local dealer and he would work me in this morning.  Since I don't have the GS911, I figured it was a good time to reset the maintenance light, check for codes, and calibrate the suspension.  I just returned from the 110 mile round trip.

 

That was $58 well spent!  The ride is taut again.  The ride height is up a bit.  It was a very noticeable change!

 

The service manager was telling about some new whiz bang BMW diagnostic computer ($15000).  Of course, I can't verify that, but they did provide two calibration confirmations.  1. ESA ride height sensors and 2. Spring travel calibration.

 

Since we ride two up and near the upper vehicle weight limit, I wonder if the spring has fatigued a bit and the calibration reset the zero point to compensate for the sag.  

 

This is worth doing!  If I had access to a GS911, I might consider it every tire change.

 

Terry

 

 

 

 

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14 hours ago, RecentConvert said:

This is worth doing!  If I had access to a GS911, I might consider it every tire change.

 

It doesn't need it.

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I asked my service manager about this suspension calibration and he said that it is done as part of the software update done at every scheduled maintenance. 

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I would be inclined to say the Service Manager wasn't being fully truthful. But I am willing to admit when I am wrong too. 

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I have used this GS-911 feature since the 15 RT.  As a matter of fact at every service I use just about every test, calibration, and re set I can do on any service function except the transmission.  In my experience if SAP is working for you just leave it alone.

 

The GS-911 is a great tool and has many more uses then just setting the service reminder which is what everyone talks about.

 

So as the others have said a calibration may help but if the shock is gone it is gone. 

 

Shocks degrade so subtle that it is hard to know unless you are wallowing all around or see some wetness on the shock it's self. 

 

All I know is new aftermarket shocks on any vehicle, car or motorcycle, will put a big grin on your face.

 

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At the National I spoke with both a suspension guy and the Michelin folks.  I was told by the Michelin rep the GT sidewall is the same as the normal spec tire (note the weight capacity are the same), what makes the GT tire different and needed is an extra belt on the contract patch, it stiffens it up. 

 

The suspension guy feels you should change out the shocks earlier the better since you'll enjoy the ride from that day forward (yeah, salesman talk).  He was very knowable about the Tractive shocks and I'll go with them when I'm ready.   I replaced my shocks on an 02R1150RT around 35,000 sMiles, best improvement I ever did.  I have 36 - 37,000 on my 14 RT and feel the shocks are good at this time.  I can say this since I've been riding the best motorcycle road to the my max. 

 

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Here's a thing. On my Oilhead, I changed to Ohlins at 15000 miles. It was incredible. At 75000 miles I sent them for rework. They came back and felt exactly the same. At 115000 I got them serviced again. However, while they were being serviced, I popped on my OEM shocks. I really was impressed how good they felt. When I got the Ohlins back I popped them on and there was no earth shattering moment. I am of the opinion that when I first installed the Ohlins at 15000 miles, my heart and wallet convinced me they were that much better!

I am not saying they don't make an improvement, because for sure, mine did. Just not as much as some of us believe they do.

I would like to try some different shocks front and rear on the Wethead. I am SURE the original items can be replaced with something a LOT more supple. It is an expensive thing just to try though!

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3 hours ago, strataj said:

At the National I spoke with both a suspension guy and the Michelin folks.  I was told by the Michelin rep the GT sidewall is the same as the normal spec tire (note the weight capacity are the same), what makes the GT tire different and needed is an extra belt on the contract patch, it stiffens it up. 

 

The suspension guy feels you should change out the shocks earlier the better since you'll enjoy the ride from that day forward (yeah, salesman talk).  He was very knowable about the Tractive shocks and I'll go with them when I'm ready.   I replaced my shocks on an 02R1150RT around 35,000 sMiles, best improvement I ever did.  I have 36 - 37,000 on my 14 RT and feel the shocks are good at this time.  I can say this since I've been riding the best motorcycle road to the my max. 

 

EXACTLY!  I also cornered him and a GT spec tire has NOTHING to do with side wall so lets just leave that Internet Myth alone, at least as it applies to Micheline Tires.

 

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12 hours ago, strataj said:

At the National I spoke with both a suspension guy and the Michelin folks.  I was told by the Michelin rep the GT sidewall is the same as the normal spec tire (note the weight capacity are the same), what makes the GT tire different and needed is an extra belt on the contract patch, it stiffens it up. 

 

The suspension guy feels you should change out the shocks earlier the better since you'll enjoy the ride from that day forward (yeah, salesman talk).  He was very knowable about the Tractive shocks and I'll go with them when I'm ready.   I replaced my shocks on an 02R1150RT around 35,000 sMiles, best improvement I ever did.  I have 36 - 37,000 on my 14 RT and feel the shocks are good at this time.  I can say this since I've been riding the best motorcycle road to the my max. 

 

 

Would you mind sharing who the suspension guy is or works for?

Thanks.

As for the Michelin tires, I had that same conversation with the Michelin Rep at the MOA rally in Salida, MO a few years ago. He even claimed that the compound and construction was the same as the PR-3‘s, except for the groves in the tire carcass.

I have decided that I am happily using Metzler Z-8 and Continental RoadAttack 3 GT on my 2018 WetHead.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Again I asked my service manager about the suspension calibration.  He told me that this calibration happens automatically every 10-15 times that you start your motorcycle.  Since this calibrates for your weight, you should be on your bike when you start it.  I think (?) I have noticed this happen, but I'm not sure.  I will run a test and see if this is true.

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I mentioned earlier that I was suspicious of the service manager. The difference calibrating mine made, after owning it for a couple years and thousands of miles, tells me it does NOT calibrate itself. And having done the deed, I can tell you that you WOULD notice it doing the calibration. And I don't think you should be sitting on it. But, I am willing to admit I am wrong.....

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20 hours ago, KSB said:

Again I asked my service manager about the suspension calibration.  He told me that this calibration happens automatically every 10-15 times that you start your motorcycle.  Since this calibrates for your weight, you should be on your bike when you start it.  I think (?) I have noticed this happen, but I'm not sure.  I will run a test and see if this is true.

 

Well, I can tell you that mine didn't. It felt horrible all the time until I had it calibrated. Since then it has been as good as every other one I've ridden (which is good, but not as good as people seem to rave about).

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I run the calibration every 6K.  Also calibrate the stepper motors for the intake.  As a matter of fact I use every service function and test except a transmission reset, in the GS-911 at EVERY 6K.

 

I dont believe for a second that the bike calibrates every so many starts but hey it could.

 

My experience on any aftermarket suspension is is heads above OEM stuff.  I am saving my pennies.  I want to replace mine before they wear out so I have them to swap if aftermarket needs rebuilt. 

 

Hell to be on a fixed income.  If I was not, they would be on by now.   MY LT had Hyper Pro and it made a huge difference and nothing to do with placebos or trying to convince myself they were better, they were so much better then OEM.

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THANKS for the responses, but they beg the questions: Does the bike self calibrate the suspension and should the calibration be done with or without the rider's weight?  How can I find out what is done when the software functions are done either with a GS-911, BMW shop computer or self checks at startup?  These bike are so complex and smart that it would be nice to know what is going on.

I am also interested in after market shocks and will get them at some future point; just passed 49K on the odometer.

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realshelby

I think this video does a good job of explaining what is happening. Not a current model, so there may be differences in the new bikes. But I think this is worth looking at.

 

 

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Thanks for video Terry...I assume if you don't have a GS 911 then the dealer can do during service if you ask?  It looked pretty simple to do and since I am due service I may ask them to do this without charging me an arm and a leg to punch a couple of buttons.

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realshelby

Yes, the dealer should be able to do this for a minimal fee. They have to hook it up to the computer anyway!

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I did calibrate my suspension before leaving for the UN. After 3K+ miles on this trip I did confirm that my suspension does need to be replaced soon with 42K on the odo. 

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