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avu3

Bleeding brakes after ABS removal (Alternator Install)

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avu3

My alternator's bearings are going bad, so I'm researching replacing it.

 

The Clymer says the ABS system must be pressure bled by a dealer after ABS removal.

 

In reading, I've found a few answers -

Just bleed it like any other brake system at the calipers - its not clear to me if the responders are talking about just a brake bleed/flush or after ABS removal.

Use the bleed valves on the ABS system - seems the most logical

Absolutely do not touch the bleed valves on the ABS system as they have blind nuts that break off and ruin it - sounds about like what would happen to me given my luck

 

Curious if anyone who's done it has any input.

 

I'll probably pickup a used one on eBay and have a local shop go through it and put that in, so I can do the repair in one session without leaving it apart waiting for the rebuilder.


Thanks

Scott

 

 

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dirtrider
1 hour ago, avu3 said:

My alternator's bearings are going bad, so I'm researching replacing it.

 

The Clymer says the ABS system must be pressure bled by a dealer after ABS removal.

 

In reading, I've found a few answers -

Just bleed it like any other brake system at the calipers - its not clear to me if the responders are talking about just a brake bleed/flush or after ABS removal.

Use the bleed valves on the ABS system - seems the most logical

Absolutely do not touch the bleed valves on the ABS system as they have blind nuts that break off and ruin it - sounds about like what would happen to me given my luck

 

Curious if anyone who's done it has any input.

 

I'll probably pickup a used one on eBay and have a local shop go through it and put that in, so I can do the repair in one session without leaving it apart waiting for the rebuilder.


Thanks

Scott

 

 

 

Afternoon Scott

 

As a rule I just shim the front brake caliper pistons back (shim the pads back from the brake rotors), then bleed the system as a conventional brake system. THEN, go back & bleed the ABS module bleed screws to remove the air from the ABS module.

 

You might try cautiously breaking the bleed screws loose before disassembly as that way you can find a workaround if they won't easily break loose.

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avu3

Thanks DR. That clears it up nicely. I can use heat and or penetrating oil to get those ABS unit bleeds open if necessary.  The bike's had regular service, so its not like this will be the first time they've been opened in 20 years. Hopefully that's to my advantage.

 

Scott

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Michaelr11

Scott - you don't say in the original post if your bike is an 1100 or 1150.  The bleed procedures are completely different for each.

 

The ABS2 1100 system can be bled just like any conventional hydraulic brake system, just as DR explains.  The 1150 does not conform to a conventional bleed. Others will point you to the iABS bleed procedure if that's what you have. 

 

If you do have the 1100 ABS2 system, the rear fluid circuit will be much easier to get going if you attach a syringe or bleed bag to rear caliper bleed screw and PUSH the fluid up the lines until it starts to fill the rear master cylinder. Once fluid has filled the circuit, you can bleed it conventionally.

 

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avu3

Thanks for the clarification, Michael, and the tip on pushing fluid up the rear.  Mine's a 99 1100, so ABS2.

 

Scott

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Jim Moore

Bleed at the calipers. Bleed at the ABS ports, go back and forth a few times. My brakes always seem spongy at first, but get better after I ride a little bit. I would invest in a MityVac. Makes the job a lot easier.

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