Missing at high rpm

[RPG]

Currently doing a track day with my 04 RT, 105k. Morning sessions I was faster than Valentino but my last session the motor developed a high rpm miss. At around 4 grand it happens. Idle is fine.

recent service included new stick coils. Pulled plugs and they look great. Checked for a vacuum fuel tank lock and no whoosh. 

Any insight would be appreciated. 

 

[Jim Moore]

Check all your fuses and relays. I've had that happen due to a loose relay. After that, fuel filter?

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, RPG said:

Currently doing a track day with my 04 RT, 105k. Morning sessions I was faster than Valentino but my last session the motor developed a high rpm miss. At around 4 grand it happens. Idle is fine.

recent service included new stick coils. Pulled plugs and they look great. Checked for a vacuum fuel tank lock and no whoosh. 

Any insight would be appreciated. 

 

 

Afternoon Rick

 

That might be a difficult find while at the track.

 

Could be electrical like a stick coil, at 4k under road load that usually (but not always) eliminates the lower spark plugs.

 

Could be a fuel flow issue (like plugging fuel filter or weak fuel pump).

 

Did you miss any upshifts under heavy engine load when near red line?? If so then possibly a bent valve. (can't be real bad as you still have a decent idle).

 

Might be worth a look at the air filter element as at 105K you might be puffing some blow-by oil into the air box when leaned over under high engine loading.

 

When you get home run a fuel return flow test (that should yea/nay the fuel filter & pump). If nothing found replace the upper spark plugs (just because they look good doesn't rule out a minor crack or small carbon trace), check the air filter, maybe run a cranking compression test.

 

If problem still there then try a (new/good used) stick coil in one side then if no change put it in the other side  & ride the bike to 4k under road load.

 

Might even use a good quality voltmeter (or your GS-911) then verify that the TPS is tracking smoothly & properly.

 

Those higher RPM road load engine misfires are difficult to put a finger on as they usually don't act up sitting still at low/no engine load.  

 

Where are yo guys running, Grattan?

 

 

 

 

[RPG]

Yes. Grattan.

I failed to mention that I installed a Axfied controller. The led pattern looked a little weird so I unplugged it. Did the next three sessions with no issues so something going on there possibly. 

The 150 mile ride home afterwards was flawless. Will dig into it more this weekend.  Thanks. 

Th

[RPG]

I’ve had the controller installed for a few years now. 

[dirtrider]

9 minutes ago, RPG said:

Yes. Grattan.

I failed to mention that I installed a Axfied controller. The led pattern looked a little weird so I unplugged it. Did the next three sessions with no issues so something going on there possibly. 

The 150 mile ride home afterwards was flawless. Will dig into it more this weekend.  Thanks. 

Th

 

Morning Rick

 

You might PM__  roger 04 rt __ as he is the expert on the Axfied.

 

Any chance that your o2 sensor pig tail has dropped down onto the hot exhaust?

[Paul De]

Not too uncommon to hear of these add-on fuel management controllers going bad. The MTBF rate may be a very reliable decades of service,  but that also means some puke out  prematurely.

[RPG]

7 hours ago, Paul De said:

Not too uncommon to hear of these add-on fuel management controllers going bad. The MTBF rate may be a very reliable decades of service,  but that also means some puke out  prematurely.

Agreed

[joeb]

On 6/3/2019 at 12:30 PM, RPG said:

Currently doing a track day with my 04 RT, 105k. Morning sessions I was faster than Valentino but my last session the motor developed a high rpm miss. At around 4 grand it happens. Idle is fine.

recent service included new stick coils. Pulled plugs and they look great. Checked for a vacuum fuel tank lock and no whoosh. 

Any insight would be appreciated. 

 

Hi. My friend had the same problem this week at our track day.  09 1200rt

Pulled plugs and they looked good but since we had limited trouble shooting abilities in the paddock and even less ability to repair we decided send a bud out to find plugs. Sat out 1 session ,Installed the plugs and bike ran better than ever.  150 mile ride home flawless too. Hope your fix is as easy.

[roger 04 rt]

Since RPG has a gs-911 it’s very easy to determine if the AF-XIED is doing its thing.  Just collect a log of real-time data and plot the voltages. You should see Closed Loop patterns at least some of the time at steady throttle, meaning voltages varying between ~200mV and 750 mV. If the voltages are stuck low or high all the time it MIGHT indicate an AF-XIED, cable, or O2 issue. 

 

Another possibility: If voltages at the injector head are low, or if fuel volume or pressure is low, and at high engine loads, it might take injection pulse times that exceed the range allowed by the Motronic to add 6-8% to the fuel.

[RPG]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I was offline yesterday.

 

As I mentioned earlier, I went out for session #3 at Grattan on Monday and bike started missing above 5 grand. Returned to pits and checked the main plugs (dual spark '04 RT)

Those looked perfect so re-installed. New stick coils were installed last fall along with a new O2 sensor.

 

I've had some idling issues in the past but even with this problem, the bike was idling fantastic.

 

I opened the fuse panel door and noticed one fuse #4) was not inserted all the way. I believe that fuse is for turn signal's, etc. so didn't think it was an issue. Checked it for continuity along with #5 (Motronic). Both were good.

 

Started bike to check out the LED pattern on the AFxied controller. Got 7 blinks, confirming my setting at 7, but then noticed the yellow LED started flashing continuously. Not having the manual with me, I decided to disconnect it from the system. I think this returns it to normal operation (closed loop).

 

Suited up for the next session and the bike ran great, no misses or hiccup's.

 

Stayed that way through the last afternoon session and including the 130 mile ride back home.

 

So this weekend the plan is to pull the plastic, hook up the GS911 and see what's amiss with the controller.

 

RPG

[RPG]

2 minutes ago, roger 04 rt said:

Since RPG has a gs-911 it’s very easy to determine if the AF-XIED is doing its thing.  Just collect a log of real-time data and plot the voltages. You should see Closed Loop patterns at least some of the time at steady throttle, meaning voltages varying between ~200mV and 750 mV. If the voltages are stuck low or high all the time it MIGHT indicate an AF-XIED, cable, or O2 issue. 

Thanks Roger,

 

I'll be grabbing that data this weekend.

Rick

[roger 04 rt]

Rick,

Do you also have the R1200 injectors?

 

I believe you have the 2nd load relay but it’s worth check the +12V at the injector while running with a DVM. You should measure 13.8V.

 

Btw, One of the side benefits of boosting the alternator voltage is better (faster) injector turn-on times. I’m not positive but the r1200 injectors might be set up for 14.4 V. 

[RPG]

5 hours ago, roger 04 rt said:

Rick,

Do you also have the R1200 injectors?

 

I believe you have the 2nd load relay but it’s worth check the +12V at the injector while running with a DVM. You should measure 13.8V.

 

Btw, One of the side benefits of boosting the alternator voltage is better (faster) injector turn-on times. I’m not positive but the r1200 injectors might be set up for 14.4 V. 

Hi Roger,

 

yes, I installed the R1200 injector's a few years ago. I was going to change out the V.R. on my alternator a couple of winter's ago and wimped out, seeing how it was more complicated (hard to remove the alt.), so I wimped out. I rationalized that with the fact that my bike is on a Ctek charger daily, when not at my office.

 

And yes, I do have the 2nd Load relief relay on my late model '04 RT.

 

But now is probably a good time to upgrade to the higher output alternator.

 

Thanks,

 

Rick

[roger 04 rt]

The alternator project’s a pain. I’ve done it twice. Last time I just unbolted the alternator and fiddled it into a position so I could remove the cover and dig the VR out. But if I were you I wouldn’t rush to do it, just check the voltage at the injector while idling to make sure it’s full B+ (around 13.7-13.8).

 

btw, if you just unplug the AF-XIED, you have no O2 input to the Motronic and no Closed Loop. 

[RPG]

9 hours ago, roger 04 rt said:

The alternator project’s a pain. I’ve done it twice. Last time I just unbolted the alternator and fiddled it into a position so I could remove the cover and dig the VR out. But if I were you I wouldn’t rush to do it, just check the voltage at the injector while idling to make sure it’s full B+ (around 13.7-13.8).

 

btw, if you just unplug the AF-XIED, you have no O2 input to the Motronic and no Closed Loop. 

good morning, as luck would have it, I started my ride into work this morning and noticed my battery light was on. So with 105k, I'll be looking at the alternator a little more closely.

and thanks for the O2 info. I thought that might be the case, that it would go open loop.

 

RPG

[Jim Moore]

"Battery light on" almost always means shredded poly-V belt.

[dirtrider]

22 minutes ago, Jim Moore said:

"Battery light on" almost always means shredded poly-V belt.

 

Afternoon Jim

 

Rick has a 2004 (twin spark), those don't have (shouldn't have)  a poly-V belt. Most 2003 & all 2004 1150RT's have the 'ELAST- Belt' (stretchy elastomer belt).

[Jim Moore]

Yep. Absolutely. I'd still be surprised if it was the alternator instead of the belt. 

[RPG]

Thanks Jim and D.R.,

 

I had the front cover off over the winter, so the belt inspection showed an almost brand new looking belt. No strange squeaking noises, indicating a loose belt on start up. Belt tension was good as well.

 

I mentioned I was at the track on Monday, troubleshooting the main topic of a high rpm miss. At one point I started the bike and the battery light stayed on even when revving. I turned it off, re-started and the battery light stayed off through three more track sessions and the 150 mile ride home. If I recall though, when the light stayed on, I checked battery voltage with my digital meter (engine running and it was close to 14vdc at idle. Thinking about that, I'll do the same check when I get home tonight.

 

Typically, I would think battery voltage to be less than 12.7vdc, engine running, battery light on.

 

I'll start taking off the tupperware this evening and will know more.

 

RPG

[dirtrider]

47 minutes ago, RPG said:

I mentioned I was at the track on Monday, troubleshooting the main topic of a high rpm miss. At one point I started the bike and the battery light stayed on even when revving. I turned it off, re-started and the battery light stayed off through three more track sessions and the 150 mile ride home. If I recall though, when the light stayed on, I checked battery voltage with my digital meter (engine running and it was close to 14vdc at idle. Thinking about that, I'll do the same check when I get home tonight.

 

Typically, I would think battery voltage to be less than 12.7vdc, engine running, battery light on.

 

 

 

Afternoon Rick

 

Pay attention to WHEN the light is on & when it is off. If it doesn't come on at key-on (engine not running yet) but then comes on &  stays on with engine running then the alternator is probably back feeding the RID back through the charge light (like #1 fuse is blown).

 

The charge  light can also be ON even if the alternator is charging if the voltage regulator is having issues, or if something else is tied into the blue alternator D+ wire circuit adding a load.

 

Basically the ignition  switch powers one side of the charge light & the alternator powers the other side of the charge light. So if either side has a lower voltage potential then the light  will light (ie 12v at charge-light feed but 0 volts at alternator then light on-- or 12v at alternator output but 0 volts at charge-light feed input then again light on). 

 

In normal service the charge light is OFF with engine running as it has 12v at charge-light feed side & 12v at alternator D+ pin side.

Light is ON at key-on (engine not running) due to 12v on charge-light feed side but 0 volts + small load at alternator D+ pin.

 

When alternator starts charging the alternator  D+ pin goes to 12v so charge light bulb sees 12v on both sides therefore no potential across charge light & no lit bulb.

 

Also, don't assume the alternator rotor is spinning just because the upper pulley is spinning as there is a one-way over-running clutch between the pulley & the shaft behind it. I have seen a few of those one-way alternator drives fail over the years (especially after a large number of high G downshifts that force the alternator rotor to back spin excessively).

 

 

[RPG]

Good morning D.R.,

 

Good info as always,

 

I managed to get the Tupperware off last night before doing some water skiing.

 

I only got as far as turning on the ignition (Battery light lit)

Starting the bike, (battery light goes off)

Checking voltage at battery (14.01vdc)

 

Tonight I'll get into it much further.

 

much appreciated!

 

RPG

[dirtrider]

22 hours ago, RPG said:

Good morning D.R.,

 

Good info as always,

 

I managed to get the Tupperware off last night before doing some water skiing.

 

I only got as far as turning on the ignition (Battery light lit)

Starting the bike, (battery light goes off)

Checking voltage at battery (14.01vdc)

 

Tonight I'll get into it much further.

 

much appreciated!

 

RPG

 

Morning Rick

 

Check the system voltage with the high beam headlight on & brakes applied hard (that runs the high current servo pumps).

 

The BMW alternator is a 3 phase alternator so you can have 1 or 2  of the 3 phases stop charging but still show a charge with no-load on the electrical system.

 

In fact even with a perfect alternator it is possible to run the battery down on the servo system bikes  if a lot of hard (numerous) braking events with the engine RPM's near idle. (that was the reason for a BMW service bulletin covering police bikes & battery run down during hard rider braking training). 

 

That was also the reason for the change on the later 1150 bikes shutting the rear servo pump off at standstill with light (or no) braking pressure on the rear pedal.

[RPG]

On 6/8/2019 at 7:46 AM, dirtrider said:

 

Morning Rick

 

Check the system voltage with the high beam headlight on & brakes applied hard (that runs the high current servo pumps).

 

The BMW alternator is a 3 phase alternator so you can have 1 or 2  of the 3 phases stop charging but still show a charge with no-load on the electrical system.

 

In fact even with a perfect alternator it is possible to run the battery down on the servo system bikes  if a lot of hard (numerous) braking events with the engine RPM's near idle. (that was the reason for a BMW service bulletin covering police bikes & battery run down during hard rider braking training). 

 

That was also the reason for the change on the later 1150 bikes shutting the rear servo pump off at standstill with light (or no) braking pressure on the rear pedal.

D.R., I wish I would have checked for posts before I removed the alternator. LOL!

 

I did get the alternator removed this morning, (wow! what a job!) and brushes and slip rings look pretty good (for 105k) I'm measuring about .0095" wear on the slip rings.

No bearing issues or noises when rotating.

 

I'm thinking of having it tested at an alternator shop I know of, and then updating the voltage regulator with the Euromotoelectrics 14.5v unit.

 

I'll report back what I find.

 

Thanks,

 

RPG

[dirtrider]

4 minutes ago, RPG said:

D.R., I wish I would have checked for posts before I removed the alternator. LOL!

 

I did get the alternator removed this morning, (wow! what a job!) and brushes and slip rings look pretty good (for 105k) I'm measuring about .0095" wear on the slip rings.

No bearing issues or noises when rotating.

 

I'm thinking of having it tested at an alternator shop I know of, and then updating the voltage regulator with the Euromotoelectrics 14.5v unit.

 

I'll report back what I find.

 

Thanks,

 

RPG

 

Morning Rick

 

Check the over-running clutch on the pulley (best you can anyhow).

 

Also, check the large red were connection at the battery B+ post.  

[RPG]

3 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

Morning Rick

 

Check the over-running clutch on the pulley (best you can anyhow).

 

Also, check the large red were connection at the battery B+ post.  

afternoon D.R. the clutch seems fine. It locks in the direction of rotation and free spins in the opposite. You can take the plastic cover off and insert a large Torx socket to lock the clutch and test (if anyone is interested in how to do it)

 

Large wire connection looks clean. Don't see any issues.

 

I'm cleaning the slip rings with contact cleaner and emery cloth and I'll go ahead and buy that higher output V.R. from Euromotoelectrics. I don't see any other issues with the alternator, visually speaking.

 

RPG

[dirtrider]

15 hours ago, RPG said:

afternoon D.R. the clutch seems fine. It locks in the direction of rotation and free spins in the opposite. You can take the plastic cover off and insert a large Torx socket to lock the clutch and test (if anyone is interested in how to do it)

 

Large wire connection looks clean. Don't see any issues.

 

I'm cleaning the slip rings with contact cleaner and emery cloth and I'll go ahead and buy that higher output V.R. from Euromotoelectrics. I don't see any other issues with the alternator, visually speaking.

 

RPG

 

Morning Rick

 

Visual isn't always a good way to judge an alternator as they can look good but still have an internal diode that is shorted or open.   

 

The BMW alternator is a 3 phase alternator (most all 12v alternators are 3 phase) so it will have 9 internal diodes. 3 positive diodes on the  3  phase legs,  3 negative diodes on the  3  phase legs (this is the A/C to D/C rectification part ),

plus 3 additional diodes on the regulation/generator light circuit. 

 

If any one of the main (rectification) diodes is open or shorted then the alternator current output will be low & if any one of the 3 regulation side diodes is open or shorted then the voltage control will be skewed & possibly the generator light remains on.

 

The best approach is to install the new regulator (or add a diode to the existing regulator) to get your 14.7 voltage increase for the PC 680 battery then take your completed alternator to a generator/alternator shop & have it tested for current output, voltage output, & voltage stabilization under load.

 

It's a LOT of work to go back in to remove that alternator again if  it there is something unseen wrong inside it.    

[RPG]

27 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

 

Morning Rick

 

Visual isn't always a good way to judge an alternator as they can look good but still have an internal diode that is shorted or open.   

 

The BMW alternator is a 3 phase alternator (most all 12v alternators are 3 phase) so it will have 9 internal diodes. 3 positive diodes on the  3  phase legs,  3 negative diodes on the  3  phase legs (this is the A/C to D/C rectification part ),

plus 3 additional diodes on the regulation/generator light circuit. 

 

If any one of the main (rectification) diodes is open or shorted then the alternator current output will be low & if any one of the 3 regulation side diodes is open or shorted then the voltage control will be skewed & possibly the generator light remains on.

 

The best approach is to install the new regulator (or add a diode to the existing regulator) to get your 14.7 voltage increase for the PC 680 battery then take your completed alternator to a generator/alternator shop & have it tested for current output, voltage output, & voltage stabilization under load.

 

It's a LOT of work to go back in to remove that alternator again if  it there is something unseen wrong inside it.    

Good morning D.R.,

 

You're reading my mind. I'm calling a couple shops today to do just that. Yes, a very large amount of work to remove that alternator so I want to be certain everything is good before re-installation.

 

Thanks much,

RPG

[RPG]

I found a shop that can do the testing for me once I get the new VR installed.

 

RPG

[RPG]

I stopped by the alternator shop this morning to have it tested. With the new V.R. installed, it puts out a healthy 14.4vdc, except the tech told me the clutch pulley is bad.

 

So I need to source one of those, and maybe get the tools to remove and install.

 

RPG

[RPG]

I think it's official name is a decoupler pulley.

[dirtrider]

49 minutes ago, RPG said:

I stopped by the alternator shop this morning to have it tested. With the new V.R. installed, it puts out a healthy 14.4vdc, except the tech told me the clutch pulley is bad.

 

So I need to source one of those, and maybe get the tools to remove and install.

 

RPG

 

Morning Rick

 

First you need to find a pulley as BMW hasn't sold or serviced that over-running pulley for quite a few years now.

 

You used to be able to easily find the alternator/with over-running pulley for sale on E-Bay but the last few years BMW 50/60 amp alternators for sale on E-Bay seem to be missing those difficult-to-find one way pulleys.

 

I haven't installed 'just' the over-running pulley in years now (last one that I did I removed the alternator & had the BMW dealer swap  it over for me). The BMW automobile side used a similar pulley so possibly a BMW auto dealer could do the swap. Maybe even that alternator shop has the tools (or something that would work).

 

If you can't find a suitable fee-wheeling pulley (or decent 50 amp alternator with a free-wheeling pulley) then you might look into using the early 50 amp alternator's 58.7mm solid pulley then switching back to the early Poly-V belt-- (Elastomer 'stretchy' belts don't work so good with a solid pulley).

 

The solid pulley did add some rotating mass to the engine on engine decel but personally I liked the extra rotating mass on engine decel as it seemed to make moderate throttle up shifting smoother.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[RPG]

33 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

 

Morning Rick

 

First you need to find a pulley as BMW hasn't sold or serviced that over-running pulley for quite a few years now.

 

You used to be able to easily find the alternator/with over-running pulley for sale on E-Bay but the last few years BMW 50/60 amp alternators for sale on E-Bay seem to be missing those difficult-to-find one way pulleys.

 

I haven't installed 'just' the over-running pulley in years now (last one that I did I removed the alternator & had the BMW dealer swap  it over for me). The BMW automobile side used a similar pulley so possibly a BMW auto dealer could do the swap. Maybe even that alternator shop has the tools (or something that would work).

 

If you can't find a suitable fee-wheeling pulley (or decent 50 amp alternator with a free-wheeling pulley) then you might look into using the early 50 amp alternator's 58.7mm solid pulley then switching back to the early Poly-V belt-- (Elastomer 'stretchy' belts don't work so good with a solid pulley).

 

The solid pulley did add some rotating mass to the engine on engine decel but personally I liked the extra rotating mass on engine decel as it seemed to make moderate throttle up shifting smoother.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Morning D.R., I'm trying to locate a pulley as the alternator shop didn't have a replacement. Removal and installation looks pretty simple (with the correct tools) so no issues there if I can get the toolkit (always like adding tools to my shop) and can source the pulley. If I can't source the parts then going back to a solid pulley is a great suggestion. After reading up on the decoupler pulley's operation, I like the feature so wouldn't want to give that up unless I have no other choice and have to go back to a solid pulley.

I have no complaints though. 105k on the oem alternator is still a pretty good service life IMHO.

 

RPG

[dirtrider]

6 minutes ago, RPG said:

Morning D.R., I'm trying to locate a pulley as the alternator shop didn't have a replacement. Removal and installation looks pretty simple (with the correct tools) so no issues there if I can get the toolkit (always like adding tools to my shop) and can source the pulley. If I can't source the parts then going back to a solid pulley is a great suggestion. After reading up on the decoupler pulley's operation, I like the feature so wouldn't want to give that up unless I have no other choice and have to go back to a solid pulley.

I have no complaints though. 105k on the oem alternator is still a pretty good service life IMHO.

 

RPG

 

 

Morning Rick

 

Just a thought, you might give Mike at BMWSEM a call as they just might have a scrapper alternator sitting around with that pulley still on it.

[RPG]

26 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

 

 

Morning Rick

 

Just a thought, you might give Mike at BMWSEM a call as they just might have a scrapper alternator sitting around with that pulley still on it.

Thanks D.R. I know Michael well. I'll call him. Appreciate it.

 

RPG

[RPG]

well, calls to BMW MC of Southeast MI revealed that most bikes they get in with alternator trouble, resolves in getting the stock alt. sent out for rebuild. So they dont have any extra decoupler pulley's laying around. I have calls into beemerboneyard, Re-psycle and others. My local NAPA auto store says to bring the alt. by and they may be able to help as well so I'll stop there after work.

 

RPG

[dirtrider]

54 minutes ago, RPG said:

well, calls to BMW MC of Southeast MI revealed that most bikes they get in with alternator trouble, resolves in getting the stock alt. sent out for rebuild. So they dont have any extra decoupler pulley's laying around. I have calls into beemerboneyard, Re-psycle and others. My local NAPA auto store says to bring the alt. by and they may be able to help as well so I'll stop there after work.

 

RPG

 

Afternoon Rick

 

Some BMW automobiles do use the same style free-wheeling pulley set up but I'm not sure about the pulley diameter. I'm pretty sure that your 1150RT 50 amp alternator uses a  58.7mm pulley.

 

 

[RPG]

26 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

 

Afternoon Rick

 

Some BMW automobiles do use the same style free-wheeling pulley set up but I'm not sure about the pulley diameter. I'm pretty sure that your 1150RT 50 amp alternator uses a  58.7mm pulley.

 

 

afternoon D.R. I appreciate the info. I'll try and find something in that size at the NAPA store today.

 

Worst case scenario, is I go back to the standard pulley from BMW. But I believe this requires a different belt?

[dirtrider]

1 minute ago, RPG said:

afternoon D.R. I appreciate the info. I'll try and find something in that size at the NAPA store today.

 

Worst case scenario, is I go back to the standard pulley from BMW. But I believe this requires a different belt?

 

 

Afternoon Rick

 

Yes, you can't stay with the elastomer belt as stretchy belts don't work very well with a solid pulley (reason that BMW gave for going to the free-wheeling pulley was to use the elastomer belt to get longer belt life with no belt part-life re-adjustment). At least that is what a BMW service bulletin that I have says.

 

You will have to go back to the poly-v belt but you can get that at about any auto parts store fairly reasonable.

[RPG]

Finally got all the pieces back together last night and the bike runs great, no battery light illuminating when running.

 

Picked up a new Poly V belt (611) and battery voltage at idle is a nice, healthy 14.45vdc. (new voltage regulator and brushes from Euromotoelectrics)

 

You CAN get the alternator out without removing the Brake Servo module, but it's still a struggle.

 

So to re-cap, I started experiencing a high speed miss and seeing the Batt light stay on last month at my Track Day at Grattan Race Track. The high speed miss was resolved by disconnecting the AFxied fuel controller at the track (Going open loop)

 

I removed the alternator by of course, first getting the plastic out of the way.

 

• Remove the tank
• Glove box
• left side Air cleaner snorkel
• Left side shark fin
• Alternator cover
• Loosen alternator and remove belt
• Disconnect battery and remove

 

On the right side of the bike:

• remove oil return line from cooler
• remove oil temperature sensor
• remove small Torx screw on frame for front brake lines
• remove Motronic unit
• remove lower plugs ignition coil from frame
  • Be VERY careful removing plug wires as they are 90 degrees into the coil and can break the connector (just like I did)

 

Alternator

• Once you have the coil off, loosen and remove the three alternator bolts
• Disconnect the small spade terminal wire to the alternator
• Remove bolt cap/cover for larger wire to the alt. and remove

 

Brake Servo

• Remove two screws on right side, one on left

With the servo unit loosened but still in it's frame,  and the brake line junction screw removed,  (mounts to the right side frame), you can finagle the alternator rearward and out by moving the brake lines out of the way. You shouldn't have to disconnect any brake lines on the servo. I was able to get it out by orienting the pulley down, and removing under the brake lines.

 

Stock BMW Parts:

• New BMW pulley. p/n 12 31 1 342 075 $78.55 (original De-coupler pulley is NLA.)
• Hex Nut. p/n 12 31 1 459 814 $6.86
• Washer. p/n 07 11 9 906 046 $2.86

 

Euromotoelectrics parts:

 

• Voltage Regulator
  • https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BOSCH-Voltage-Regulator-BMW-R-K-p/boalt-reg365.htm  $39.00
• Alternator Belt
  • https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/belt-4pk611779.htm  $25.00
• Spark Plug Wires (Lower)
  • https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Ignition-Wire-Set-BMW-R-Oilhead-p/bmw-wsr299.htm  $40.00

 

Last but not least, I removed the AFxIED fuel controller, reset the Motronic, cleaned the LBB's, synched the throttle bodies and performed Roger 04RT's procedure for setting the left butterfly to stock factory  settings. I had inadvertently messed with it waaaay back when I bought the bike brand new and it hasn't really idled consistently ever since.

 

Rode to work this morning (60 miles) and the bike performed perfectly. Idle at 5 bars is just a tick over 1000 rpm, and very, very smooth.

 

Want to thank both Roger and Dirt Rider for their help and guidance. We're all very lucky to have them in the RT community.

 

RPG