Alternator removal, 2002 RT-P

[twstm]

Has anyone here had to remove the alternator on their RT? I had a catastrophic failure on the way home from work last week. Upon removing the alternator cover, the alternator pulley nut and washer felt out on the floor. On closer inspection it wiped out the threads on the end of the alternator shaft. So now I need a new one...more like a good used one.

 

It looks to me like the Motronic at a minimum has to come out. Any suggestions? Part out the bike lol?

[11101110]

Can't say for sure about alternator removal but I just adjusted my alternator after replacing the belt 6000 miles ago but have not removed it.  I can say that going out toward the rear appears to be the only option. 

 

Since you have to get the Motronic out I would inspect your wiring and see if the tubing is deterring.  This would be an excellent time to get to the wire buried around the Motronic and ABS unit.  I just spent about two weeks wrapping almost all my wires with 3M friction tape due to this rot.  The wires themselves were fine.  I also made a tool to tension the alternator belt using an acorn nut and part of a 1/2" spring (cut down).  Both I got from my local ACE hardware.

[twstm]

4 hours ago, 11101110 said:

Can't say for sure about alternator removal but I just adjusted my alternator after replacing the belt 6000 miles ago but have not removed it.  I can say that going out toward the rear appears to be the only option. 

 

Since you have to get the Motronic out I would inspect your wiring and see if the tubing is deterring.  This would be an excellent time to get to the wire buried around the Motronic and ABS unit.  I just spent about two weeks wrapping almost all my wires with 3M friction tape due to this rot.  The wires themselves were fine.  I also made a tool to tension the alternator belt using an acorn nut and part of a 1/2" spring (cut down).  Both I got from my local ACE hardware.

 

Thanks for the reply and the tip about the wiring, I was thinking about that.

[dirtrider]

On ‎5‎/‎29‎/‎2019 at 7:30 PM, twstm said:

Has anyone here had to remove the alternator on their RT? I had a catastrophic failure on the way home from work last week. Upon removing the alternator cover, the alternator pulley nut and washer felt out on the floor. On closer inspection it wiped out the threads on the end of the alternator shaft. So now I need a new one...more like a good used one.

 

It looks to me like the Motronic at a minimum has to come out. Any suggestions? Part out the bike lol?

 

Evening Twstm

 

I can't remember if I have removed the alternator from a (fully assembled)  1150RT-P or not, I have on the regular 1150RT.

 

Not an easy or quick task by any means.

 

BMW manual calls for removing the fuel tank, exhaust,  front shock, & front alternator mount cover ( engine front chain cover) then pulling it out the front.

 

Personally I usually remove it out the rear (no service manual procedure on this way so you have to wing it)

 

I usually remove the fuel tank, then  the alternator belt cover & belt, battery, ABS module, & Motronic. (probably takes longer than removing shock & front engine cover if you include the full brake bleed after  reassembly) but it seems less intrusive.

 

Not sure if being a  police bike will add any extra steps.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[twstm]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

 

Evening Twstm

 

I can't remember if I have removed the alternator from a (fully assembled)  1150RT-P or not, I have on the regular 1150RT.

 

Not an easy or quick task by any means.

 

BMW manual calls for removing the fuel tank, exhaust,  front shock, & front alternator mount cover ( engine front chain cover) then pulling it out the front.

 

Personally I usually remove it out the rear (no service manual procedure on this way so you have to wing it)

 

I usually remove the fuel tank, then  the alternator belt cover & belt, battery, ABS module, & Motronic. (probably takes longer than removing shock & front engine cover if you include the full brake bleed after  reassembly) but it seems less intrusive.

 

Not sure if being a  police bike will add any extra steps.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks dirtrider. How difficult is the brake bleed if I remove the ABS module? I have a Clymer manual but its packed away in a storage unit while our new house is being built.

[11101110]

Brake bleed is easy especially if you have a vacuum system.  You have to get a funnel adapter from beemer boneyard.

 

When I replace the belt on my RTP I removed the front shock and disconnected the front sub-frame in front of the alternator cover.  I did NOT remove it.  this gave me enough room to work.  When I checked the belt tension recently I did not remove anything other than the cover and that stayed inside the sub-frame.

 

Don't forget to disconnect the battery.  Haven't done it personally but have been nearby during vehicle alternator work when the battery was still connected.

[dirtrider]

10 hours ago, twstm said:

Thanks dirtrider. How difficult is the brake bleed if I remove the ABS module? I have a Clymer manual but its packed away in a storage unit while our new house is being built.

 

Morning  Twstm

 

Not difficult as long as you know the procedure & take proper precautions.  (there are a number of I-ABS bleeding procedures posted on-line).

 

You need to bleed both sides of the brake system (it is effectively 2 separate hydraulic braking systems).

 

You bleed the control side as a conventional brake system (master cylinders to the ABS module) by simply keeping the reservoirs full then pumping the hand  lever or foot pedal until all the air is purged out. (the ABS module bleeders need to be bled in the proper order to properly purge the  air out of the system). The actual work is easy but the set up, procedure, & access takes some planning.

 

On the wheel side you just turn the key on then use the hand lever or foot pedal  as that runs the  I-ABS module power servos to pump the fluid through as you bleed at the calipers. For this you need to make or buy a reservoir filler/adapter  (a rubber plug with a hole in it & a small  bottle with a short spout will work here). Or just buy an adapter/funnel on-line.

 

I just make my own fill adapter/bottle from a small water bottle & a  rubber plug (available from Home Depot).

 

 

I sent you a PM on a long winded version on the bleeding process in PDF form so check your PM's.

 

 

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

More info

 

Here are the bare-bone  basics but you really need to know the entire procedure (hopefully someone has a simplified online procedure-- "edit, I just sent you one by PM"  -- bookmarked & can provide you a link to the procedure) -- I don't have the time now to type it all out in a simplified form.-- Note-- your RT-P (police bike) has a slightly different ABS module but the basics are about the same.

 

 

Bleed in the following sequence, using front brake lever___

 

-- front metering cylinder (1),

--front integral circuit (2),

-- front control circuit (3) --and then

--front metering cylinder (1) for the second time.

 

 

 

Bleed in the following sequence, using rear brake pedal

 

-- rear metering cylinder (1),

-- rear integral circuit (2),

-- rear control circuit (3) -- and then

-- rear metering cylinder (1) for the second time.

 

Use the below ABS controller  picture to determine proper circuit numbers.

 

Be sure to keep the reservoirs full of fluid during the bleeding process.

 

Put a long clear hose on the controller bleed nipples to vent the used fluid into a  container & away from the motorcycle (brake fluid can really damage the paint & electrical components).

 

(important) --  toss a clean box cutter blade or a clean US quarter (25 cent piece) into the front master cylinder reservoir to keep the fluid squirt-back inside  the reservoir as you pump the lever.

 

Also cover the dash  & painted plastic with plastic garbage bags, or a good plastic tarp,  to prevent damage if some brake fluid gets away from you.

 

Unless you have specialized wrenches you might have  a problem getting on a couple of the controller bleed nipples. If so then remove the main wire harness plug going into the brake controller but BE SURE to use duct tape over the exposed open cavity to keep ALL the brake fluid out of the controller electronics. 

 

[twstm]

Ok, I got the alternator replaced and bled the brakes. Good pedal and lever feel, brakes work excellent. The only problem is now my abs lights are flashing. Alternate flashing between both lights. Any suggestions?

[dirtrider]

58 minutes ago, twstm said:

Ok, I got the alternator replaced and bled the brakes. Good pedal and lever feel, brakes work excellent. The only problem is now my abs lights are flashing. Alternate flashing between both lights. Any suggestions?

 

Evening twstm

 

Have you tried riding the bike a short ways to allow the ABS to a checksum?

 

As a rule the ABS & general warning light flashing alternately means low fluid level in one of the under fuel tank ABS controller reservoirs. (or possibly a damaged or disconnected low fluid sensor in the ABS controller)

[twstm]

17 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

 

Evening twstm

 

Have you tried riding the bike a short ways to allow the ABS to a checksum?

 

As a rule the ABS & general warning light flashing alternately means low fluid level in one of the under fuel tank ABS controller reservoirs. (or possibly a damaged or disconnected low fluid sensor in the ABS controller)

Yes, took it for a 10 mile ride, lights still on. Guess I'll have to bleed the ABS reservoir again.

[dirtrider]

3 minutes ago, twstm said:

Yes, took it for a 10 mile ride, lights still on. Guess I'll have to bleed the ABS reservoir again.

 

Evening twstm

 

If you have good feeling brakes then it shouldn't need bleeding again, just make sure the under tank reservoirs are full & that the low fluid sensors are plugged in (those sensors work in series so both sensors need to be connected & working 'N/C' to put the low fluid flashing lights out) 

[RogerC60]

I read somewhere that the pins in those fluid sensor connectors are very easy to bend/break, and even though the connector looks like it's on right the connections inside are not being made.

 

[twstm]

I have to wait until Saturday to look at it again. Rode it to work today, brakes worked perfectly. Maybe the ABS reservoir is low.

[twstm]

Just an update...went back in and checked both ABS reservoirs.  One was low. Filled it up and all is well. Thanks for all the help and advice!