Fuel tank quick connect fitting broke... replacement?

[BF204]

So I have what I think is the dreaded HES failure over the weekend (left me walking).. but that is another story (likely will make a separate thread).  Luckily was in town, not in the middle of nowhere.  I trailered bike home... while removing the tank one of the plastic quick connect fuel fittings (maybe factory?) broke.  The male end broke at the base where there is a groove in the plastic (where the locking clip, clips in).  I stopped at my 1 and only BMW dealer in the city, and they quoted me $88 for 1 male plastic end, 1 O-ring, 1 crimp on clamp.  It would be a week to come from Montreal.  I've seen online parts supply (e.g. Motobins) sell metal male ends.... would they be compatible with the plastic female locking end that is on the bike?  What they list as the female part appears (?) to be what I have (seems to be plastic).   When people replace the plastic disconnects with metal ones, do you replace both sides?  If so, is there a preferred aftermarket supplier for those?   The BMW parts guy said it's always the male end that breaks... but otherwise he was pretty useless.  Looked at me like I had 2 heads when I said I would rather replace with a metal fitting rather than use the same plastic OEM, POS one. 

 

Thanks...

[Keith_A]

Yep. they do break and should be replaced.    Here are the 2 most common suppliers here in the states>

https://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html

 

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/fp-qdc120kitplus.htm

 

Keith

 

 

[Tri750]

Bmw hasn't made he plastic male end for years . 

He actually said plastic or did you assume plastic or did he not know ? 

 

At any rate, the factory male end is metal, it comes with an o ring , and you'll need a clamp. 

Assuming those are CDN  prices. 

 

The bmw factory male does fit the BMW plastic female with no problem. The female will last a long time as it wasn't the weak link in the system. .

I added the QD to my 1100RT years ago, updated to the metal male about 5-6 years ago and the original plastic female is still doing its thing. 

 

[Skywagon]

The ones from beemer boneyard will serve you well.  Be careful not to mix up the two lines.  When I had my 1150 the plastic cracked and I replaced them in about 30 minutes.  It is a known problem.

[BF204]

Good answers... thx folks.  I haven't had time to source HES yet, but I'll get metal male connectors at the same time....

[Claudio]

Quote

The ones from beemer boneyard will serve you well.  Be careful not to mix up the two lines.

 

That also reminds me. I've worked on some colleague's bikes where they replaced these connectors. Rather than flip the male/female so they can never be connected in reverse, a lot of inexperienced mechanics seem to forget this and connect the male/female as pairs...big no-no.

[James in OK]

The HES can be rewired and there is a Canadian guy on this forum (GSAddict) who does the work quickly and reasonably.  Send him your old one and ten days or two weeks later you'll have it back with a permanent fix.

 

I did my own and wished I had sent it to him.  It's a bit of a tough job and I have some electronics experience.

[BF204]

On 5/27/2019 at 2:40 PM, Keith_A said:

Yep. they do break and should be replaced.    Here are the 2 most common suppliers here in the states>

https://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html

 

Keith

Ya, I ended up ordering a set from beemerboneyard... they're on the way... thanks!

 

On 5/28/2019 at 12:08 AM, Claudio said:

That also reminds me. I've worked on some colleague's bikes where they replaced these connectors. Rather than flip the male/female so they can never be connected in reverse, a lot of inexperienced mechanics seem to forget this and connect the male/female as pairs...big no-no. 

Hi... ya I already noticed that they have the male / female ends flipped on the 2 lines to avoid the possibility of re-connecting the wrong lines together... I'll put the new ones in the same way. But thanks for the "head's up".   By the way, aren't you also a Winnipegger??  I haven't noticed many others on the forum, but had thought I should send you  PM sometime to introduce myself.... So "Hi!"...  I don't notice too many oilheads running around town, so maybe we'll cross paths.  Maybe we should go for a ride sometime... (once I get my bike back together)...

 

On 5/28/2019 at 10:37 AM, James in OK said:

The HES can be rewired and there is a Canadian guy on this forum (GSAddict) who does the work quickly and reasonably.  Send him your old one and ten days or two weeks later you'll have it back with a permanent fix.

 

I did my own and wished I had sent it to him.  It's a bit of a tough job and I have some electronics experience.

Ya, thanks, I had seen that.  I thought about doing it myself, but ended up sending if off to GS Addict to rewire, his work will be prettier than mine would've been, and he's setup to test it properly afterwards.  So, that's the in the works.... Thanks for checking to make sure I knew about him!

[BF204]

Just as a followup / conclusion to this thread... The metal (stainless?) quick disconnects from  beemerboneyard are great.  They are quality pieces, came with good fuel injector type clamps and went on without hassle.  I lubed the O-rings with a tiny dab of grease, and disconnects slide together well with a nice "click" when they lock.... likewise they come apart nicely, (way smoother than the plastic ones).  The corners of the clamps are sharp, so I gave them a slight touch up with a file so they don't slice your fingers immediately when you grab them.

 

I got my HES back from GS addict and was very happy with his work, and the overhauled HES got me back on the road.  I wrote up my HES story as a response to another poster's questions... so if you're interested in my HES failure (e.g. found this by searching "HES" or Hall Effect Sensor) you can read this thread:

 

https://www.bmwsporttouring.com/topic/92614-96-rt-electrical-failure/

 

Thanks again for the help!

[Michaelr11]

6 hours ago, BF204 said:

Just as a followup / conclusion to this thread... The metal (stainless?) quick disconnects from  beemer boneyard are great.  They are quality pieces, came with good fuel injector type clamps and went on without hassle.  I lubed the O-rings with a tiny dab of grease, and disconnects slide together well with a nice "click" when they lock.... likewise they come apart nicely, (way smoother than the plastic ones).  The corners of the clamps are sharp, so I gave them a slight touch up with a file so they don't slice your fingers immediately when you grab them.  .......................

 

Just an addition to your comments on the metal QDs from the Boneyard.  I have had mine on the bike for years.  Every time I open them up to remove the RT tank, I smear a light coating of dielectric grease on the O-rings before connecting them together. Like I said, on the bike for years and never had a problem with the QDs, or the O-rings. Always make sure you press and hold the release button all the way in when opening or closing the QDs, This prevents the locking mechanism from cutting the O-ring.

[JimmR75]

+1 on GSAddict HES service.  Quick turnaround, great communication and the cleanest, most professional work you can imagine.  Aviation / aerospace quality.

 

[Lowndes]

1 hour ago, JimmR75 said:

+1 on GSAddict HES service.  Quick turnaround, great communication and the cleanest, most professional work you can imagine.  Aviation / aerospace quality.

 

 

I'll gladly and enthusiastically second JimmR75's testimonial.  Reto does GREAT WORK, much better than anything I could do.  NEW connector, both sensors checked, the correct heat tolerant wire, expert solder connections, spaghetti insulation, beautiful workmanship, Better Than New, and FAST turnaround.  It was so pretty I didn't want to hide it under the tank.  He has done two for me, R1100S and R1100RT.

 

IMPORTANT:

Send your old unit USPS to Reto in Canada.  When you fill out the DUTY forms at the PO, BE SURE TO SHOW THE VALUE OF THE UNIT AS "$0.00" (NO value - it's dead).  Otherwise Reto would have to pay an import duty of more than $200 USD to get it.  Maybe.  You don't want that to happen.

 

Photos:  https://goo.gl/photos/s9tgCYUf7Q8VoMHy6

 

Rewired RT HES by Reto (GSAddict):

 

Backside - excellent splicing and spaghetti (shrink tubing):

 

HES sensors checked.  My index mark at lower right

 

NEW connector!!  You just can't appreciate this kind of work until you've tried it yourself.