ABS flush - DOT-4 colour

[RT1150Ted]

Hello all;

 

I did the brake flush today. I clearly am NOT Chris Harris  

 

But as a result of the kind advice and posts here I managed.

 

I bought my 2004 R1150RT two (2) years ago. When I first brought it home I had a BMW Motorrad tech give it a fluid change and thorough going over...

 

I rode about 1000 kms over last 2 years, and plan to rectify the low mileage this season.

 

Here is a picture of the fluid from ABS reservoir to front brakes....and the bike has been in my garage.

 

Does that colour look right to everyone? I was surprised how dark the fluid was. can fluid get that dark in 2 yrs and 1000 kms?

 

Or do you think the ABS wasn't flushed properly?

 

T

 

 

 

[RT1150Ted]

...and this is what came out of clutch flush......

 

There was a flush in 2012 from what I can see in previous owners maintenance history.....

 

I flushed system with the BMW DOT-4 clear fluid.....

 

[Claudio]

The fluid can definitely discolor that much in a short time depending upon the environment it is exposed to (generally heat or temperature extremes).  In the broad range of temps I ride, I've generally done my flushing annually. 

 

The installation of appropriate speed bleeders on both the callipers and the ABS bleed valves makes it a lot easier but still a pain compared to modern ABS systems.

 

[RT1150Ted]

That was my next question, I think I need the speed bleeders, the room to attach the nipple and wrench on the small bleed valve was brutal, are the speedbleeders longer at least?

 

After looking at the fluid I guess the best time to change fluid is in fall before i store bike.... doing this over again in 6 months....ugh, oh well. I know it has already been said, but why would anyone engineer a mechanical unit that needs this type of service and put it where they did.... rhetorical question....

 

I still love the bike though..

 

 

[dirtrider]

30 minutes ago, RT1150Ted said:

That was my next question, I think I need the speed bleeders, the room to attach the nipple and wrench on the small bleed valve was brutal, are the speedbleeders longer at least?

 

After looking at the fluid I guess the best time to change fluid is in fall before i store bike.... doing this over again in 6 months....ugh, oh well. I know it has already been said, but why would anyone engineer a mechanical unit that needs this type of service and put it where they did.... rhetorical question....

 

I still love the bike though..

 

 

 

Morning RT1150Ted

 

Careful with speed breeders in the  ABS module, the valve body on the 1150 (I-ABS) is very fragile on the outer corners  & more than few have been cracked due to using speed bleeders (that is an expensive timesaver)

 

I'm guessing the BMW I-ABS system wasn't designed to be difficult to service.  The ABS system was designed to WORK & to improve over the earlier (slower) ABSII system. That working system was then placed (integrated) in the motorcycle where it would fit & stay out of harms way. The service intervals were then figured out after extensive durability testing was completed, then shortened as real world feedback showed that the system needed even more frequent servicing. 

 

The secret to doing BMW 1150 (I-ABS) brake service is to not make it a separate 'stand alone' service but to work it in with any other service or tasks that require Tupperware removal.  

 

I'll trade you (3) 1150rt  I-ABS brake services for (1) BMW 800gs valve adjustment & still come out ahead time wise.

 

 As for your bled brake fluid color?- that is a pretty normal color after some usage time & really doesn't point to any problems or issues. Sometimes a real dark color in a short time could be pointing to deteriorating brake hoses on the inside (brake hose degradation will  darken brake fluid very quickly).

[RT1150Ted]

Thanks for that.

 

I am concerned about the brake lines as well....that colour could well be a player....and I plan on Speiglers. I was going to do it altogether on this service.... long story ... but was trying to source in Canada and there is a company in Toronto that makes motorcycle brakelines but they are difficult to communicate with... after weeks of attempts I gave up. Want to ride ....so attacked the problem. If I can get through the summer I will do it in Fall..... 

 

I was really concerned about the Clutch servo from everything I read... so that worked well and the fluid flush was nice and clear and handle feel clean.

 

Interesting on the speedbleeder review. I guess I need a smaller diameter bleed hose that really attaches well...and is flexible...my hose was thick and moved my waste can all over the place ... really a pain... once I figured it out the bleed was a bit messy but cleaned up ok.

 

That's pretty funny about your trade for a 800gs valve adjustment.... i can only imagine.

 

Thanks again everyone. What a great forum and cool group!

 

T

[Selden]

6 hours ago, dirtrider said:

I'll trade you (3) 1150rt  I-ABS brake services for (1) BMW 800gs valve adjustment & still come out ahead time wise.

Dirtrider, you just answered that question for me. I picked up a 2014 F700GS last September, with ~4200 miles on it. I believe it had an initial valve adjustment after purchased new, and as far as I can determine, the next scheduled interval will be at 12,000 miles. Do you have any idea what the "going rate" is for a dealer 12,000 mile service? 

 

I still have my 1999 R1100RT, and over the years, I have grown to appreciate its tractor-like simplicity. I knew the F-series twins were more complex, especially valve adjustments. At my working pace, adjusting the valves myself would probably require a week of downtime.

 

PS : I just looked in https://advrider.com/f/threads/f800-gs-valve-adjustment-schedule.838529/ and I may be dead or retired from riding by the time the valves need adjusting.

Edited May 1, 2019 by Selden

[dirtrider]

3 minutes ago, Selden said:

Dirtrider, you just answered that question for me. I picked up a 2014 F700GS last September, with ~4200 miles on it. I believe it had an initial valve adjustment after purchased new, and as far as I can determine, the next scheduled interval will be at 12,000 miles. Do you have any idea what the "going rate" is for a dealer 12,000 mile service? 

 

I still have my 1999 R1100RT, and over the years, I have grown to appreciate its tractor-like simplicity. I knew the F-series twins were more complex, especially valve adjustments. At my working pace, adjusting the valves myself would probably require a week of downtime.

 

Afternoon Selden

 

I really don't have an answer on the dealer price but based on the time & effort  that it takes me it can't be cheap (especially if a check shows that a cam needs to be lifted to make a change).

 

The actual procedure isn't that technical but the access to the cam area is a REAL pain as the air  box & battery need to be removed JUST to begin the actual work (just to see in there).

 

To me it is the access to the work area that is the problem as every move that you make is hindered by something (even the clutch cable & wire harnesses will  interfere  with your access so I usually take the extra steps to disconnect & move the clutch cable completely out of the way & pull/tug/zip tie the harness out of the way.  You are working down in the frame surrounded area so everything is difficult to access openly easily.

 

I'm not sure but my guess is that the dealer charges the same even if the cams don't need to be lifted/removed if the lash check shows they are still barely within spec.  

 

By doing the valve check/re-set yourself you can be sure that they are set well within the center of spec so you then buy a lot more miles until the cams have to be lifted again.

 

I think that you will find that even installing new spark plugs is a BIG pain in the a$$. 

 

Just give your dealer a call as I'm sure they will give you a ballpark price.

[Claudio]

14 hours ago, RT1150Ted said:

Interesting on the speedbleeder review.

 

DRT is correct. You need to be really careful with the ABS unit.  When I swapped out my bleeder valves for the speed bleeders early in my ownership of the bike (I think the previous owner had never flushed the system), the existing bleeders were quite tight/semi-siezed.  Fearing a break with a standard spanner, I removed them only after purchasing a deep 8mm socket to apply a nice and even force on them.

 

14 hours ago, RT1150Ted said:

my hose was thick and moved my waste can all over the place ... really a pain... once I figured it out the bleed was a bit messy but cleaned up ok.

 

A tip from me on this. I use a plastic container (I think its an old grated parmesan cheese container) to catch the fluid. A hole the same diameter as  the tubing helps keep it in place and  to keep the container upright, I place a few large river stones in it....voila...no more tipping over.

[CNred]

+1 on Speed Bleeders, but as dirtrider suggested not on the ABS module.

Go to the Speed bleeder web site, if you dont buy the bleeders themselves, buy the silicone tubing and bleed bag. The hose is very pliable and will not slip off the bleeder.

I bought Spped bleeders for front and back calipers and the hose and bag, made the job a lot easier.

Again as dirtrider said, make the brake maintenance part of what ever you have to do when you already have the fairings off. I try not to remove them if at all possible, they are just not fun.

[RT1150Ted]

Thanks. Good advice.

 

 

[RPG]

On 5/1/2019 at 12:06 AM, RT1150Ted said:

Hello all;

 

I did the brake flush today. I clearly am NOT Chris Harris  

 

But as a result of the kind advice and posts here I managed.

 

I bought my 2004 R1150RT two (2) years ago. When I first brought it home I had a BMW Motorrad tech give it a fluid change and thorough going over...

 

I rode about 1000 kms over last 2 years, and plan to rectify the low mileage this season.

 

Here is a picture of the fluid from ABS reservoir to front brakes....and the bike has been in my garage.

 

Does that colour look right to everyone? I was surprised how dark the fluid was. can fluid get that dark in 2 yrs and 1000 kms?

 

Or do you think the ABS wasn't flushed properly?

 

T

 

 

 

The color doesn't look that bad, given the somewhat unknown history.

I flush my '04 RT fluids yearly.

When I flush mine, the first section of old fluid coming out in the tube is dark but then clears up right away. I've flushed brake and clutch fluids annually on my 104k bike. No issues whatsoever so P.M. must be the ticket.

RPG

[greiffster]

On 4/30/2019 at 11:06 PM, RT1150Ted said:

Hello all;

 

I did the brake flush today. I clearly am NOT Chris Harris  

 

But as a result of the kind advice and posts here I managed.

 

I bought my 2004 R1150RT two (2) years ago. When I first brought it home I had a BMW Motorrad tech give it a fluid change and thorough going over...

 

I rode about 1000 kms over last 2 years, and plan to rectify the low mileage this season.

 

Here is a picture of the fluid from ABS reservoir to front brakes....and the bike has been in my garage.

 

Does that colour look right to everyone? I was surprised how dark the fluid was. can fluid get that dark in 2 yrs and 1000 kms?

 

Or do you think the ABS wasn't flushed properly?

 

 

Ted,

Its hard to tell from the photo, but did you see any black crud in the bottom of the fluid.  My first brake flush on my 1150RT after the PO, I had concerning bits of black stuff that came out (looked like black sand).  I can only assume it was bits of rubber brake lines.  I did the Spiegler swap.

[RT1150Ted]

Hi there

 

No, nothing like that came out, that would be alarming. But this is the last few months with these lines, I am changing them..... i am probably going to put some more lighting on the bike so if the tupperware comes off I am going to have the lines ready.