Changing a RT1100 18” rear wheel for a 17” K 1200 17"Rear Wheel.

[Woodchips]

Hi All

The selection of 18” tires for my RT 1100 is getting harder to find and I have read of the changeover to 17” rims from a K1200. My question is, is there a specific year and or model that I should be looking for and which wheel bolts should be used. I have also read different opinions on installing the spacer or not.

And finally, does anyone here in Canada have or know of a source, exchange and import duties can get expensive.

Ron

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, Woodchips said:

Hi All

The selection of 18” tires for my RT 1100 is getting harder to find and I have read of the changeover to 17” rims from a K1200. My question is, is there a specific year and or model that I should be looking for and which wheel bolts should be used. I have also read different opinions on installing the spacer or not.

And finally, does anyone here in Canada have or know of a source, exchange and import duties can get expensive.

Ron

 

Morning Ron

 

You need a 17" K1200 RS or LT (5 spoke) rear wheel. I don't have a wheel part number handy but you should probably use the 5" wide rear wheel as the 5.5" wide will rub the swing arm with some tire choices. Back in the day some riders used 2 wheel spacers with the 5.5" rims but THAT is a good way to end up with a wheel coming loose while riding.

 

As for wheel bolts?-- Good question. I have only done a couple of 17" rear conversions (neither were on my personal bike) & the riders that I did the conversion for brought me the wheels & tires for the project.

 

The first one that I did  I used (tried to anyhow) the stock 60mm 1100RT bolts & those bottomed out so I just shortened them to be short enough to not bottom out (a guess would be somewhere around 58mm).

 

The second one I did I used the K1200 55mm bolts & those fit OK but with a spacer they seemed a little short. The rider rode that bike with the K1200 55mm bolts until first rear tire change & at that time I shortened his 1100RT bolts to get full engagement but not bottom out. So the K1200 bolts will work, the 1100RT bolts are probably too long, slightly shortened 1100RT bolts are just right.

 

If you do the 17" rear wheel conversion don't just bolt the wheel on & ride. There might (probably will) be some slight interference between the wheel & the rotor/tone ring area so that should be identified & corrected before riding.

 

Anton did  page on BMW wheel  differences so that might help you find what you need___

 

http://www.largiader.com/parts/wheels.html

[RoanokeRider]

I don't know how similar the R1100 wheel is to an R1150 wheel but I have had both an 1150 and now an LT and the machining on the back is substantially different.

[AndyS]

DR explained the options.

The 1150RT is totally different as the wheel carries the disc, unlike the models he has highlighted, which like the 1100RT, carry the disc on the FD.

[dirtrider]

30 minutes ago, RoanokeRider said:

I don't know how similar the R1100 wheel is to an R1150 wheel but I have had both an 1150 and now an LT and the machining on the back is substantially different.

 

Morning Bill

 

Here is the 1100RT rear wheel.

 

Which of the two wheels that you have posted look closest to a match?

 

 

 

[Woodchips]

Thanks DR

Can I assume in my search, that the model year is not a factor as they all use the same wheel?

Ron

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, Woodchips said:

Thanks DR

Can I assume in my search, that the model year is not a factor as they all use the same wheel?

Ron

 

Morning Ron

 

Yes, no, maybe so (how is that for an evasive answer?)

 

Actually I don't really know. According to my BMW parts book it 'looks like' the K1200 LT all use the same 17"x5" rear wheel p/n- 36312331909.

 

Now on the K1200RS my parts book shows 2 possible rear wheels with one being the p/n- 36312331909 (that is the 17"x5") & the other a  17"x5.5". You don't want the 17"x5.5" as that could give you clearance problems with some tire combinations.

 

The other thing is: I'm pretty sure that the wheel you want is the  p/n- 36312331909 (17"x5") but I don't know the wheel casting number (some sell the wheels by casting number that is cast on the back of the wheel  not by part number).  Anton's wheel chart shows the 36312331909  rear wheel with a 2 331 468 casting number so if that is accurate then that should help you find one.  The correct wheel should also have a raised  5.00x17 cast on the rear of it (so verify this before buying).

[Woodchips]

Thanks DR, now the search begins.

[dirtrider]

14 minutes ago, Woodchips said:

Thanks DR, now the search begins.

 

Evening Ron

 

Usually a number on E-Bay (search first by  36312331909 wheel number, then try casting number, then try k1200LT or K1200RS).

 

Problem with E-Bay is some are from crashed bikes or from long mistreated bikes so paint is usually chipped up, or damaged from poor tire mounting. Worst case is being bent from crash damage.

 

If going that route ask a LOT of questions, get some seller feedback, get some idea of the person that you are dealing with.

 

If going over the border to Canada you might lose some of E-Bay's or Pay Pal's protection.  

[Woodchips]

Afternoon D.R.

I’m going start my search here in Canada as my past experience dealing with Canada Customs is not good, and the exchange rate (35%) makes it almost prohibitive to purchase in U.S. dollars. While the supply of 18” tires is getting limited, they are still available but the price seems to be escalating each year beyond what one might consider “normal”.

Meanwhile, the search may have to wait a bit as I caused myself a problem when replacing the alternator pulley after a HES inspection, the inner timing component did not get aligned with the pulley center and when I attempted to start the bike the HES was damaged. I’m shipping the unit off to Dan in Romania for a rebuild. Live and learn.

Thanks again for your replies

Ron in Calgary

[dirtrider]

6 minutes ago, Woodchips said:

Afternoon D.R.

I’m going start my search here in Canada as my past experience dealing with Canada Customs is not good, and the exchange rate (35%) makes it almost prohibitive to purchase in U.S. dollars. While the supply of 18” tires is getting limited, they are still available but the price seems to be escalating each year beyond what one might consider “normal”.

Meanwhile, the search may have to wait a bit as I caused myself a problem when replacing the alternator pulley after a HES inspection, the inner timing component did not get aligned with the pulley center and when I attempted to start the bike the HES was damaged. I’m shipping the unit off to Dan in Romania for a rebuild. Live and learn.

Thanks again for your replies

Ron in Calgary

 

 

Evening Ron

 

The BMW repair manual states that timing cup should be glued to the back of the pulley before re-installing the pulley. Doesn't sound like you did that.   (personally I use BlackMax super bonder for that)

[Woodchips]

Afternoon D.R.

 

I have R&R'd the one off of my other RT1100 a couple of times, and noticed that this one had been off from the previous owner and did not anticipate a problem. I can assume you have been in the game long enough to realize there’s always that “other" guy in the garage (even when you work alone) that doesn’t pay attention and the results can get embarrassing and expensive. This getting “older” sucks.

Ron

[catskill]

This link has a lot of good information about converting rims: http://www.largiader.com/parts/wheels.html

 

The wheel you want has the casting number: 2 331 468 . You do need the change the wheel lugs, and there are issues with the ABS ring if I remember correctly.

[Trobinson]

Hey Ron,

 

Did you ever get the rear wheel conversion to 17" done?  I may be looking at this as well given the ever decreasing supply of tires in 18".

 

Tom

[Woodchips]

Hi Tom

no, I have not found a suitable rim yet and I’m still fighting with the backfiring/rough running issues since last fall. 

I may be heading to California/Arizona in early summer and will try and find one and change it out on the trip.  

[fatbob]

A wheel from an RS OR GT is too wide! Only an LT wheel works.    I did it years ago on my old 97 RT, was very happy.    Look at BMWLT.com for their LT forum, often bikes being parted out!   You won’t regret the conversion!    I bought LT bolts and used the spacer.   BTW I run a Metzeler ME 888 on my 2001 LT, great life 12k on that 900 lb bike.   

[Lowndes]

Woodchips,

 

GSAddict here is a very good rebuilder of the HES wiring and is in Canada.  He has done two rebuilds for me and his work is beautiful.  You might contact him for advice/options.