Eckhard Grohe Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 Engine side that is. Is this something that has to be checked from time to time???? Link to comment
BeniciaRT_GT Posted April 15, 2006 Share Posted April 15, 2006 Yes. I learned last year that it should not just be checked, but turned a quarter turn or so. It's easy on the engin side if you have the socket (12mm allen socket and 30mm socket.) The torque is just finger tight almost (7 N/M) but it will take some heat to get it out. Green loctite (weld!) is holding in there. (It is high torque on the non-engine side (150 N/M)) The reason they wear out is there isn't enough movement to move the bearing around the race so it sits and rolls back and forth on one loaded area. I plan on being in there every 50,000 or so. I'm just going do it as an anual event. Link to comment
calrider Posted April 15, 2006 Share Posted April 15, 2006 I plan on being in there every 50,000 or so. I'm just going do it as an anual event. In Will work for sauerkraut hotdogs. Link to comment
BucksTherapy Posted April 15, 2006 Share Posted April 15, 2006 You've got my interest but I have no idea what you are referring to. This is maintenance I didn't know needed to be done. What adjustment where? Link to comment
Rich06FJR1300 Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 he's talking about the 2 large bolts near the final drive (really they are positioned right where the yoke is before the final drive). The one on the outside is fixed, not sure you can tighten it anymore. But the one on the wheel side, can be tightened. They're both held in by locktight so you need to heat them up in order for them to loosen up. I have heard reports where there may be some freeplay at the rear wheel, and you can tighten these up to do away with that freeplay. I believe you can check them by grabbing the swing arm and the wheel to see if you can detect any movement. Also, grabbing the rear wheel at 12 oclock and 6 oclock will detect if your crown bearing is going. There should be no freeplay at all at the rear wheel. Link to comment
Eckhard Grohe Posted April 16, 2006 Author Share Posted April 16, 2006 I was posting about the pivot bolt for the 'A' arm of the front suspension. I once, years ago, saw service list drawn up by a rider that had retorquing of the nuts on it. But I have never heard any mention of it since then. and I was wondering if that was something people actually did or just someone more paranoid than me. Eckhard. Link to comment
Rich06FJR1300 Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 ohhh, big oops on my part. Sorry! Link to comment
bmweerman Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 There are those here who know much more about this...however having spent recently spent a lot of time inside that area and learning a lot about it...I would say the bolts should be maintenance free. If those suckers have been torqued to spec with the correct loktite.."They ain't going nowhere." Usually it requires a LOT of heat and patience to get those suckers loose when you WANT them loose. If it t'aint broke.......... Link to comment
BeniciaRT_GT Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 I was posting about the pivot bolt for the 'A' arm of the front suspension. Eckhard. Hence the telelever word in the title!!! Oops, sorry! FWIW, at 110,000 miles and a lot of rain, mine seem tight and friction free. I wouldnt' worry about them! Sorry for the confusion! Link to comment
BucksTherapy Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 Thanks folks, I was a little confused but I think I'll take the advice and leave this one alone. I will do the check on the rear bearings though. Thanks again. Link to comment
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