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03 RT sidestand switch failure


BobW03

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Posted

Hi, last year I ad an issue with the bike not running and ended up cleaning the sidestand switch to get it running. Now I am getting ready to sell the bike and I have no RID,but neutral light does work. Searching through posts here I think the sidestand switch finally died. I took it apart last night , cleaned it and saw the RID working. This morning, back out to re-install side panel and no RID. And the bike will stay running with sidestand down and in gear. 

 

Is the consensus a new switch at this time? I can drive to Max in NH if they have it in stock. Or take a chance on used from EBAY. But I do have a person who wants to look at the bike so I am thinking just buy new and show the potential buyer the invoice.

 

Thanks

Bob

Posted
22 minutes ago, BobW03 said:

Hi, last year I ad an issue with the bike not running and ended up cleaning the sidestand switch to get it running. Now I am getting ready to sell the bike and I have no RID,but neutral light does work. Searching through posts here I think the sidestand switch finally died. I took it apart last night , cleaned it and saw the RID working. This morning, back out to re-install side panel and no RID. And the bike will stay running with sidestand down and in gear. 

 

Is the consensus a new switch at this time? I can drive to Max in NH if they have it in stock. Or take a chance on used from EBAY. But I do have a person who wants to look at the bike so I am thinking just buy new and show the potential buyer the invoice.

 

Thanks

Bob

 

 

Morning Bob

 

Put an ohmmeter across the (disconnected)  side stand switch terminals then move the stand up & down. That should tell you if the problem is in fact your side stand switch.

 

It does sound like the side stand switch but there are other (very slight) possibilities, like the side stand isn't properly moving the switch.

 

Those side stand switches are pretty durable so (personally) I would go the E-Bay route. Worst that will probably happen is that E-Bay (or the seller) will refund your purchase price if it turns out to be a bad switch.

 

You can also by-pass the side stand switch to demo your bike then if bike sells give the new owner the E-Bay switch when it comes in.

Posted

Thanks for the quick response, Max Fiche shows the switch and cable as 3 separate pieces for a total of 150.00.

04  61 32 8 526 970

 SWITCH, KICKSTAND

 

ONLY IN CONJUNCTION WITH :

 

 61 12 8 523 364

 ADAPTER LEAD - L=820MM

 

05  11 78 7 650 156  FIXING CLAMP - D=10MM

Beemerboneyard has a used one for 45 with the cable attached like my existing switch. Going to order from BeemerBoneyard as they are also on the East coast .

Posted

Well, replacing the switch did not resolve the issue. I have the used one and plugged it into the bike but still no display. The switch is not on the sidstand, does that make any difference? Does it need to be on the pivot point for ground?

 

The bike starts and runs fine with either switch connected to the bike and just hanging.

I do have neutral light and the neutral light goes out when I shift the bike.

I just noticed that I do not have brake lights when I depress the rear pedal or the front brake lever.

I do have hyper-lites as additional brake lights and they are flashing at the same sequence as the brake failure light on the dash.

I also hear a relay clicking at the same frequency/sequence as the dash brake light

 

I do understand the brake failure will go away after the bike rolls x feet..

 

But now I am wondering if there is a common link for the RID and brake light?

 

For the briefest moment I had the clock and the gas gauge back. But shut off the engine and all go out, not even the clock is displayed.

 

I tested fuse 3 and it is good, but replaced it with a new 15 amp fuse, no change.

 

I have the Clymers and looking at the wiring diagram.

 

Thanks

Posted
25 minutes ago, BobW03 said:

Well, replacing the switch did not resolve the issue. I have the used one and plugged it into the bike but still no display. The switch is not on the sidstand, does that make any difference? Does it need to be on the pivot point for ground?

 

The bike starts and runs fine with either switch connected to the bike and just hanging.

I do have neutral light and the neutral light goes out when I shift the bike.

I just noticed that I do not have brake lights when I depress the rear pedal or the front brake lever.

I do have hyper-lites as additional brake lights and they are flashing at the same sequence as the brake failure light on the dash.

 

I do understand the brake failure will go away after the bike rolls x feet..

 

But now I am wondering if there is a common link for the RID and brake light?

 

For the briefest moment I had the clock and the gas gauge back. But shut off the engine and all go out, not even the clock is displayed.

 

I tested fuse 3 and it is good, but replaced it with a new 15 amp fuse, no change.

 

I have the Clymers and looking at the wiring diagram.

 

Thanks

 

Afternoon Bob

 

The side stand switch doesn't have to be on the stand as it has a remote ground.

 

If it starts OK then shuts down when you put the stand down with trans in gear (clutch lever held in) then the side stand switch is working OK. 

 

I can't think of a total or direct connection between the brake/taillight & the side stand or RID circuit but there are a number of intermediate circuits that do have some crossover effect.

 

If you can give us EXACT details on what isn't working then maybe we can cross reference all back to the root B+ or IGN supply.

 

My first suggestion is to check ALL the fuses (don't just look at them but actually use a meter to check them).

 

Is the headlight working? Does it go out when you push the starter button?

Posted

Is it possible I simply have a weak battery? I have a WestCo battery in the 03. But I pulled the WestCo from the 2011 I bought last May as I initially had a Odyysey PC680 in the 03 and moved it to the 11. I dont know how old the WestCo battery is, and I have been moving a Battery-Minder brand charger back and forth over the winter.. If theWestCo battery is weak could the RID stop reporting? Maybe I should take the 03 off the battery charger this evening and try to start the bike in the morning? If I put a voltmeter across the battery terminal while starting,  should there be a drop in voltage?

 

I will go back out to the garage in a couple of hours and do some more evaluation.

 

The headlight does go on after the bike starts up and all the turn signals work.

 

Posted
13 minutes ago, BobW03 said:

Is it possible I simply have a weak battery? I have a WestCo battery in the 03. But I pulled the WestCo from the 2011 I bought last May as I initially had a Odyysey PC680 in the 03 and moved it to the 11. I dont know how old the WestCo battery is, and I have been moving a Battery-Minder brand charger back and forth over the winter.. If theWestCo battery is weak could the RID stop reporting? Maybe I should take the 03 off the battery charger this evening and try to start the bike in the morning? If I put a voltmeter across the battery terminal while starting,  should there be a drop in voltage?

 

I will go back out to the garage in a couple of hours and do some more evaluation.

 

The headlight does go on after the bike starts up and all the turn signals work.

 

Quote

 

 

Afternoon Bob

 

It sure doesn't sound like a weak battery, but even if it was the RID should still work after engine is started.

 

Yes, you should see a battrey voltage drop during engine starting (could go as low as 10 volts or even slightly lower).

Posted

OK, this is really weird, the RID is working again. :4607:

 

 First I ohmed out all the fuses and they were fine.

Next clean all fuses and relays with 93% Isopropyl alcohol.

Not wanting to re-use fuse 3, I installed a new 10 amp fuse.

All functions of RID are now functioning as designed.

 

Test by inserting key, turning to on but not starting engine.

                          Headlight is on, Neutral indicator is on,. RID displays the time

Start engine, fuel level is displayed, number 0 and oil temp comes up after a couple of minutes; kickstand is down

Leave kickstand down, shift into first gear and engine quits; working as designed.

 

Re-run all tests with original switch and same results. 

Conclusion: not the sidestand switch, possible dirty contacts somewhere or a fuse that was ready to go bad.

 

Reminds me of working on computers in the early 80's. We all kept a big pink eraser to clean the gold contact fingers on the boards then reseat them. :4317:

And I should not have tried to add the brake issue here. I work in support and we constantly tell customers one issue per ticket. 

 

Thank You DR for your time and patience

 

Bob

Posted
11 hours ago, BobW03 said:

OK, this is really weird, the RID is working again. :4607:

 

 First I ohmed out all the fuses and they were fine.

Next clean all fuses and relays with 93% Isopropyl alcohol.

Not wanting to re-use fuse 3, I installed a new 10 amp fuse.

All functions of RID are now functioning as designed.

 

Test by inserting key, turning to on but not starting engine.

                          Headlight is on, Neutral indicator is on,. RID displays the time

Start engine, fuel level is displayed, number 0 and oil temp comes up after a couple of minutes; kickstand is down

Leave kickstand down, shift into first gear and engine quits; working as designed.

 

Re-run all tests with original switch and same results. 

Conclusion: not the sidestand switch, possible dirty contacts somewhere or a fuse that was ready to go bad.

 

Reminds me of working on computers in the early 80's. We all kept a big pink eraser to clean the gold contact fingers on the boards then reseat them. :4317:

And I should not have tried to add the brake issue here. I work in support and we constantly tell customers one issue per ticket. 

 

Thank You DR for your time and patience

 

Bob

 

Morning Bob

 

Thanks for the follow up.

 

The good news is: it works.

 

The bad news is: we don't know the exact cause of the problem.

 

Personally, I never consider something totally repaired until I understand  (& can reproduce) the root cause of the problem. (hopefully just a fuse, or fuse connection problem).

 

 

 

 

 

 

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