Cruise Control Issue

[Cohiba54]

See if you can help out of this one. I didn't want to do a double posting so here's a LINK to my original MOA posting. 

 

[AndyS]

Just check that the 'Cancel' slide switch is slid fully to the right.

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, Cohiba54 said:

See if you can help out of this one. I didn't want to do a double posting so here's a LINK to my original MOA posting. 

 

 

Afternoon Cohiba54

 

Normally that would point to a couple of possible issues.

 

(1)- See Andy's post above --make sure the switch it snapped completely on.

 

If that is OK __

 

(2)- Then most likely a broken or defective switch.

[Cohiba54]

Thanks Andy & Dirtrider

 

yes the switch is all the way and can feel it click as slide to off and back to on.

 

[John]

Sounds like the cruise switch is faulty, if you're experiencing the problem when operating the switch.

 

Otherwise, I was going to suggest a faulty brake (either), clutch, or throttle switch. But since it happens when you're operating the switch, it's probable the fault lies in the switchblock. These are known to fault at times.

 

A GS911 will allow you to test the various switches.

[garr2]

I have had ongoing problems (though not exactly the same problem as yours) with the cruise control switch on my 2015 RT and an earlier 2012.

See thread here.

I've came to suspect that leaving the cruise control in the 'On' position may have been the cause.

Since only turning cruise control on when using it and making sure it was turned off when the ignition is turned off my problems were solved.

I know this sounds like witchcraft but it seems to work.

 

Ian

 

[PadG]

2 hours ago, garr2 said:

I have had ongoing problems (though not exactly the same problem as yours) with the cruise control switch on my 2015 RT and an earlier 2012.

See thread here.

I've came to suspect that leaving the cruise control in the 'On' position may have been the cause.

Since only turning cruise control on when using it and making sure it was turned off when the ignition is turned off my problems were solved.

I know this sounds like witchcraft but it seems to work.

 

Ian

 

What kind of problems were you having, Ian?  My cruise control is left on all the time, and I have never had any problems.

[wbw6cos]

Does that mean crud (dust, moiture, etc) ends up in the switch causing issues?

 

Is the bike parked, uncovered, under a tree?  Dusty yard nearby?  Left out in the rain?

 

Just curious if that would be the difference.

 

I would have thought the RT's exposed electronics would be sufficient enough to with stand the elements.  I sometime wonder about that as I park my 1250RT at work without the cover; I tend not to cover it if it rained on the way into work.  It is already wet, right?

 

Cheers,

[Cohiba54]

I’ll try your suggestion Ian, Thanks

[Cohiba54]

PadG

i never turned off the CC on my 2000 K12LT and it had 100k miles on it when I sold it,  like you never had a problem. But I’ll give Ian’s thing a try just to see what happens.

[Cohiba54]

wbw6cos the switchgear on bike is pretty resilient to the atmosphere. I’ve had bikes since the late 60s and never experienced any type of electrical fault from the switches.  Most of those bikes lived outside 24/7.  I’m thinking maybe a bit of grit got under the slide switch and the housing, keeping it from locking into the on position.

[garr2]

Quote

I have had ongoing problems (though not exactly the same problem as yours) with the cruise control switch on my 2015 RT and an earlier 2012.

See thread here.

I've came to suspect that leaving the cruise control in the 'On' position may have been the cause.

Since only turning cruise control on when using it and making sure it was turned off when the ignition is turned off my problems were solved.

I know this sounds like witchcraft but it seems to work.

 

Ian

 

What kind of problems were you having, Ian?  My cruise control is left on all the time, and I have never had any problems.

 

My particular problem was in the forward (set/reset/increase set speed) and backward (decrease set speed) toggle switch.

When already set, a backward movement of the toggle cancelled CC rather than reduce the set speed by 2kph.

I particularly liked this feature because I was one more booking away from losing my licence.

 

Ian

[PadG]

17 hours ago, garr2 said:

 

My particular problem was in the forward (set/reset/increase set speed) and backward (decrease set speed) toggle switch.

When already set, a backward movement of the toggle cancelled CC rather than reduce the set speed by 2kph.

I particularly liked this feature because I was one more booking away from losing my licence.

 

Ian

Those are the features that I use all the time as well, and haven't had any issues, and I have had my '15 since when the model first came out.  I keep my cc on all the time because I activate it whenever I ride on roads with no traffic, which is most of the time.  It also keeps me "honest" by keeping my speed just a few mph above the legal limit.  We usually can get away with higher speed than legal limit, if we stay less than about 10 mph above the speed limit.

[PadG]

Rene, the switchgear issues that was mentioned really doesn't have anything to do with ruggedness, but more to do with marginal design and bad manufacturing issues.  The camhead had really big issues with switchgear failing, and that was carried over into some of the '14 wethead.  I didn't think that the '15 wethead had any issues, but it is quite possible.

[dirtrider]

19 hours ago, Cohiba54 said:

wbw6cos the switchgear on bike is pretty resilient to the atmosphere. I’ve had bikes since the late 60s and never experienced any type of electrical fault from the switches.  Most of those bikes lived outside 24/7.  I’m thinking maybe a bit of grit got under the slide switch and the housing, keeping it from locking into the on position.

 

 

Morning Cohiba54

 

Your older-bike switch gear were real switches that had actual circuit load to keep the contacts washed clean. The newer BMW control switches' are extremely  low load as they don't control the actual circuit-load-switching but instead just tell the on-board computers the riders switching intent (almost no current switching with the handlebar switches).

 

Since 2010 BMW has had a slew of handlebar switching issues as that is when the switching on the handlebars was changed to foil type switches as they just don't need to switch high current circuits. It seems that the (BMW)  foil type switches are very delicate & heat sensitive. Automobiles have been using them for a long time now without a lot of issues.

 

I'm not sure if the handlebar cruise control switching is foil or not but the other handlebar switching is foil type switches so it stands to reason that the cruise switching is also foil type.  The big downfall of the foil type switches seems to be heat ( sun-load heat & ambient temperature heat) as dumping a bottle of cold water on them will usually make them work again for a short while until they heat back up again.

[Cohiba54]

On 3/17/2019 at 5:30 AM, garr2 said:

I have had ongoing problems (though not exactly the same problem as yours) with the cruise control switch on my 2015 RT and an earlier 2012.

See thread here.

I've came to suspect that leaving the cruise control in the 'On' position may have been the cause.

Since only turning cruise control on when using it and making sure it was turned off when the ignition is turned off my problems were solved.

I know this sounds like witchcraft but it seems to work.

 

Ian

 

Ok Looks like that turning off CC before turning ignition off did the trick. I use my CC a lot so at start up I switch CC to on and ride. I started that routine this past Sunday went for a short 100 mile ride, CC did falter a couple of times. I did a few stops turning off CC then ignition off, start up, turned on CC and test some more. I do a 60 mile round trip to work every day and the CC has been working flawlessly set/accelerate/decelerate/resume all function as it should, tested clutch, brake and negative throttle role off shutting down CC and resume. 

 

Sure would be good to have others that are dealing with CC issues test this out and have them report back. Sure would save some worries and possibly some dollars.....  

 

Thanks

Ian (garr2)

 

[Cohiba54]

On 3/18/2019 at 8:39 AM, dirtrider said:

 

 

Morning Cohiba54

 

Your older-bike switch gear were real switches that had actual circuit load to keep the contacts washed clean. The newer BMW control switches' are extremely  low load as they don't control the actual circuit-load-switching but instead just tell the on-board computers the riders switching intent (almost no current switching with the handlebar switches).

 

Since 2010 BMW has had a slew of handlebar switching issues as that is when the switching on the handlebars was changed to foil type switches as they just don't need to switch high current circuits. It seems that the (BMW)  foil type switches are very delicate & heat sensitive. Automobiles have been using them for a long time now without a lot of issues.

 

I'm not sure if the handlebar cruise control switching is foil or not but the other handlebar switching is foil type switches so it stands to reason that the cruise switching is also foil type.  The big downfall of the foil type switches seems to be heat ( sun-load heat & ambient temperature heat) as dumping a bottle of cold water on them will usually make them work again for a short while until they heat back up again.

 

Good point on the switch gear not carrying the circuit load and just sending a signal to the computer dirtrider. No reason for that not to work on the bikes as long as the switch internals are sufficiently protected from the elements.

[AndyS]

On 3/17/2019 at 10:30 AM, garr2 said:

I have had ongoing problems (though not exactly the same problem as yours) with the cruise control switch on my 2015 RT and an earlier 2012.

See thread here.

I've came to suspect that leaving the cruise control in the 'On' position may have been the cause.

Since only turning cruise control on when using it and making sure it was turned off when the ignition is turned off my problems were solved.

I know this sounds like witchcraft but it seems to work.

 

Ian

 

 

 

???

My cruise control switch is always 'on' (slid to the right). I never have any reason for it not to be there.

[PadG]

17 hours ago, Cohiba54 said:

 

Good point on the switch gear not carrying the circuit load and just sending a signal to the computer dirtrider. No reason for that not to work on the bikes as long as the switch internals are sufficiently protected from the elements.

The issues that people were having was, as I said, marginal design.  Marginal in that the plastic substrate, where the conductive traces are placed, had been weak and susceptible to cracking and therefore breaks the circuit!  This had been proven by riders getting some of the switch function to work by pouring cold water over the switch cluster to allow the substrate to physically contract as it cools down, so that the copper trace would reestablish electrical contact.

 

BTW, I had just thought of another thing that might be causing your cc operation!  I had some problems when I had first gotten my '15 RT.  As I said, my cc is always in the "ON" position, and never turned off at any time, and that had worked quite fine for me all along.  However, in the early days of the '15 RT I did have an annoying issue in that, when I try to resume the CC (after having set the speed previously) it would not do so, but ran as if I had just set the cruise speed.  This had happened often, but not all the time.  Other riders had also reported the issue.  That was solved and the issue completely went away when the RT's computer was updated with new release software!  So . . . make sure that your RT is running the latest update of the software!

[LittleBriar]

25 minutes ago, PadG said:

That was solved and the issue completely went away when the RT's computer was updated with new release software!  So . . . make sure that your RT is running the latest update of the software!

 I have had problems with the nudge up or down in speed function that would not work properly twice. The first time the dealer installed new switch assembly under warranty but the problem came back shortly after. I found a dealer in Florida on a road trip who solved the problem by reflashing the computer. This worked for 18 months but then the same problem came back. I had my dealer reflash the computer again and the problem went away and has not reoccurred. I don't believe there was a software update, they just reflashed the computer. So i agree with PadG, to have the dealer look at the software.

[PadG]

23 hours ago, LittleBriar said:

 I have had problems with the nudge up or down in speed function that would not work properly twice. The first time the dealer installed new switch assembly under warranty but the problem came back shortly after. I found a dealer in Florida on a road trip who solved the problem by reflashing the computer. This worked for 18 months but then the same problem came back. I had my dealer reflash the computer again and the problem went away and has not reoccurred. I don't believe there was a software update, they just reflashed the computer. So i agree with PadG, to have the dealer look at the software.

In my case, there was a general software update.  I was notified by BMW, but the specifics weren't given as to what was updated.  Nonetheless, the key point is, as we both said, the software can be an issue to CC problems.

[Cohiba54]

it's starting to sound more like computer related than switch to me. Come to think of it last week was the first time in a month I road, all the rain we had this winter just kept off the bike. I don't mind cold, I don't mind rain, I did 2 days of 52 degree and rain in NM a few years back and I sure wasn't having fun. So it just may have been the computer relearning the on/off position for the CC. The battery may have been down some but it fired up just fine, never gave it another thought. Like most of us never turning the CC off i never had a problem, then again I was a bit behind the tech curve '04 R1150R which I still have.

 

BTW anyone have an extra ABS module for that bike laying around?

 

I think if we continue getting input on this we might start see a trend. Not riding for a while, battery replacements or battery starting to go out etc.......