2005 R1150 RT High Idle

[smiller102]

HI, I took my RT in and had the throttles Synched. Since then the Idle has been too high (1500 rpm). Today I checked and found that they didn't reconnect the vac. lines

back on to the throttles. I put them back on and when I first put them on it Idled normal 1100rpm , after I rode it I see the idle is back up to 1500rpm again. Does the motronic unit need to be reset somehow? I did check and see if the vac lines are still in place. The bike is fully stock except for a booster plug.

  Thanks for the help.

[dirtrider]

12 hours ago, smiller102 said:

HI, I took my RT in and had the throttles Synched. Since then the Idle has been too high (1500 rpm). Today I checked and found that they didn't reconnect the vac. lines

back on to the throttles. I put them back on and when I first put them on it Idled normal 1100rpm , after I rode it I see the idle is back up to 1500rpm again. Does the motronic unit need to be reset somehow? I did check and see if the vac lines are still in place. The bike is fully stock except for a booster plug.

  Thanks for the help.

 

 

Morning smiller102

 

You can t-r-y a Motronic TPS re-learn & adaptive reset but I seriously doubt that will help. (see procedure below)

 

Usually with a high idle it is either incorrectly adjusted throttle cables or incorrectly adjusted throttle bodies. Or it could be a vacuum leak on the engine side of the throttle plates.

 

That booster plug could be effecting the pre-closed-loop idle but with the engine/fueling system warm &  in closed loop it is probably doing nothing positive or negative (booster plugs basically do nothing on a closed loop system).

 

If you paid to have the throttle synced then take it back & have them do it right (if they left the vacuum lines disconnected then what else did they not do correctly???). That's sloppy work & shows how uncommitted the tec was about your motorcycle.

 

To Do a TPS re-learn--

(with choke OFF)

*Remove fuse #5 for about 3 minutes, then re-install the fuse.

Then

*Switch on the ignition. (do not start engine)

Then

*Without starting the engine, fully open & close the throttle twice so that the Fueling Computer can register the throttle-valve position.

Then

*Switch off the ignition.

That's it, that re-teaches the TPS where closed & open throttle is.

[smiller102]

2 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

 

Morning smiller102

 

You can t-r-y a Motronic TPS re-learn & adaptive reset but I seriously doubt that will help. (see procedure below)

 

Usually with a high idle it is either incorrectly adjusted throttle cables or incorrectly adjusted throttle bodies. Or it could be a vacuum leak on the engine side of the throttle plates.

 

That booster plug could be effecting the pre-closed loop idle but with the engine/fueling system warm &  in closed loop it is probably doing nothing positive or negative (booster plugs basically do nothing on a closed loop system).

 

If you paid to have the throttle synced then take it back & have them do it right (if they left the vacuum lines disconnected then what else did they not do correctly???). That's sloppy work & shows how uncommitted the tec was about your motorcycle.

 

To Do a TPS re-learn--

(with choke OFF)

*Remove fuse #5 for about 3 minutes, then re-install the fuse.

Then

*Switch on the ignition. (do not start engine)

Then

*Without starting the engine, fully open & close the throttle twice so that the Fueling Computer can register the throttle-valve position.

Then

*Switch off the ignition.

That's it, that re-teaches the TPS where closed & open throttle is.

Thanks D.R<

  I'm going to try it and hope for the best. I thought about bringing it back to them but now I don't trust them to do it and it was done several months ago. I have been off the bike for a few months (had spine surgery). If it doesn't work I'll try and redo it myself. I usually do my own work and this was the first time I had someone else touch the bike. I just need to make my own manometer to do it.

[dirtrider]

23 minutes ago, smiller102 said:

Thanks D.R<

  I'm going to try it and hope for the best. I thought about bringing it back to them but now I don't trust them to do it and it was done several months ago. I have been off the bike for a few months (had spine surgery). If it doesn't work I'll try and redo it myself. I usually do my own work and this was the first time I had someone else touch the bike. I just need to make my own manometer to do it.

 

Morning smiller102

 

If it otherwise runs & idles evenly then you can probably just turn both side BBS (air by-pass) screws in (precisely) 1/4 turn then re-evaluate hot curb idle speed. If still high then turn in each side BBS (precisely) 1/4 turn more (or even 1/8 turn more).

 

As long as you move the BBS screws exactly the same on both sides then you won't ruin the balance & won't need a manometer.  

[Michaelr11]

If the idle is too high after the bike has warmed up to operating temperature, it is very likely that they didn’t warm up the motor before doing the work. 

[JamesW]

Hi Smiller.  And that is precisely why, especially where an oilhead is concerned, I began doing virtually all my own maintenance.  That and I have never lived particularly close to a BMW shop let alone one I thought I could trust.  In the airhead days I think things were a bit better mainly due to simplicity.  My advice to  you would be get your hands dirty with the help of folks on this forum.  Oh, and it doesn't get much better than advice from D.R. as you probably already know.  Also, I would start by pitching that booster plug into the old circular file.   Read up on throttle body synchronizing, cleaning and adjustment and for this you need to invest in a tool or make one to properly sync the throttle bodies (TBs).  Not hard to do.  A tech that leaves the vacuum lines disconnected is pathetic and because of your idle issue I would return to that dealer and flat out demand my money back and not worry at all about making him angry because I would never darken his sorry door again anyway!

[Swordofwords]

Dr?  Would that work if my R1100 (2000) stutters, and the high whine (other than mine)?  The pull the fuse, off, throttle, etc. Trick?

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, Swordofwords said:

Dr?  Would that work if my R1100 (2000) stutters, and the high whine (other than mine)?  The pull the fuse, off, throttle, etc. Trick?

 

You are tacking your problem on to someone else's thread turning  their thread & problem into your thread & problem  (that is hijacking & makes the thread get confusing, especially by adding in a different motorcycle model).

 

So I will give you a quick answer but no more discussion in this thread--

 

In a word NO, it will not help your bike as the BMW 1100 Motronic doesn't have a learnable TPS system.      

[Swordofwords]

Sorry.  I dont know about hijacking, but lesson learned.  Thanks