Hello! New to an 1150 RT. And question.

[DangerCell]

Hello all!

Bought a 2004 1150 RT with 20,023 on the clock today!

 

Bike seems basically new and seems to have been maintained by previous owner since new. Couple questions though.

 

1. Where do I find a maintenance schedule to make sure she is up to par for spring just in case the ole fella that owned it slacked off toward the end of his relationship with the bike? Any past or present owners out there with advice if in my shoes?

 

2. fuel/oil temp gauge at bottom right of dash seems like it is inoperative. Anyone experience this?

 

Thanks!!!

[ltljohn]

Welcome! 

Do you have any indications at all, fuel, oil, gear indicator?

[DangerCell]

10 hours ago, TEWKS said:

The What

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/R1100RT-R1100-1150 service schedule - Copy.pdf

 

The How

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Oilhead_R1100-1150_1994-2006.html

 

Pretty bike, what color did ya find? Just posted a beautiful black 04 in the craigslist find of the day thread.

 

Welcome!   

 

 

Thanks for info!

Yeah, it must have been this one (see pic)

:-) I am just off cape and there was only 1 other 1150 in CR within a day's travel so even though I did not see your post, I think I did in fact buy the one you posted judging by your location. 

10 hours ago, ltljohn said:

Welcome! 

Do you have any indications at all, fuel, oil, gear indicator?

All idiot lights in the middle workin fine...only thing not working is that lil up ended rectangle to the far right that looks like it presents oil temp/fuel level data as vertical "bars" that seems in operative.

 

On up side...radio works! So I guess I am good. If it overheats or runs outa fuel at least I can jam out!

[RandyShields]

Welcome DangerCell.  Beautiful RT!  I had an '02 and still miss its lovely lines.  Things to look at/think about:  With just 20K on the clock, that engine is brand new.  As you ride it, keep some oil with you; some of them used it until they smoothed out a bit more.  Have a mechanic check your final drive fluid and seals; that was a weak spot on the bike.  As for farkles, you should consider some cylinder guards, as they would prevent damage to a more expensive part.  Some auxiliary lights for conspicuity, and a cover for your headlight; again, less cost that having to replace it.  And perhaps a throttle lock, since this bike does not have cruise control and you want to give your right hand a break.  Oh yeah, and check for dry rot on those tires, as it has probably been sitting around a bit.

[dirtrider]

13 hours ago, DangerCell said:

Hello all!

Bought a 2004 1150 RT with 20,023 on the clock today!

 

Bike seems basically new and seems to have been maintained by previous owner since new. Couple questions though.

 

1. Where do I find a maintenance schedule to make sure she is up to par for spring just in case the ole fella that owned it slacked off toward the end of his relationship with the bike? Any past or present owners out there with advice if in my shoes?

 

2. fuel/oil temp gauge at bottom right of dash seems like it is inoperative. Anyone experience this?

 

Thanks!!!

 

 

Morning DangerCell

 

No matter what you choose to do about verifying  maintenance you really should do a full brake service as your 1150 bike has a very expensive to repair servo type braking system that requires regular flushing to prevent future expensive problems. It's just good preventive maintenance  to start with an up-to-date brake service,  up-to-date clutch fluid service, up-to-date final drive service,  up-to-date transmission service as well as an oil & oil filter change. That way you have a KNOWN service base to work from in the future.

 

Unfortunately, on the BMW 1150RT the fuel tank must be removed to do a proper brake service as there are  fluid reservoirs under the fuel tank that must be accessed so might as well do a new fuel filter as well as replace the high pressure  fuel hoses inside the fuel tank as long as it is removed.

 

The fuel hose service in not in any manual or service sheet but a split internal fuel hose is a BIG concern on an older BMW 1100/1150 bike as a split hose (somewhat common on older BMW 1100/1150) can cause a complete & total  engine quit then a trailer tow or a very bad day anyhow.  

 

As far as your RID (Riders Information Display) not registering oil temp or fuel level, the common place to start with that is to verify that #3 fuse is there, not blown, & making good contact (3rd fuse in from the shifter side of the bike in fuse box under the seat).

 

If it isn't the fuse  then it gets more complicated as it will take some trouble shooting & good working knowledge of how the RID is wired & how it operates including how it gets it's information.   

 

Have you run the engine long enough to allow the oil temp to heat up enough to register on the RID? (in cold weather just idling in place that could take some time).

 

If the oil temp starts working after riding the bike then maybe give the fuel gauge some time to also start working. If the bike has been sitting a long time it's possible that the fuel sender (inside the fuel tank) is varnished up & not responding  so try using some Techron concentrate in your fuel tank to see if that helps the gauge start reading again.

[DangerCell]

Thank you dirtrider! Good advice that I will act on.

[AnotherLee]

11 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Have you run the engine long enough to allow the oil temp to heat up enough to register on the RID? (in cold weather just idling in place that could take some time).

 

DangerCell - since you are new to BMW you need to be aware of engine overheating if bike is left idling for any length of time - especially unattended. How long is too long I'll leave up to dirtrider's excellent advice but melted plastic and even fires have been reported in this situation. 

[DangerCell]

23 hours ago, AnotherLee said:

DangerCell - since you are new to BMW you need to be aware of engine overheating if bike is left idling for any length of time - especially unattended. How long is too long I'll leave up to dirtrider's excellent advice but melted plastic and even fires have been reported in this situation. 

 

I have owned air cooled bikes since around 1980 so I am intimately aware of what overheating looks like in an air cooled bike. I should have mentioned that I am not quite new to BMW, my other bike, just now joined by this RT, is a 1988 R100GS.  Temp gauge for that is my brain, hand and my nose.

 

That said, "oil cooled" is new to me with this RT, so yeah, paying attn to advice of you oilhead owners. I think it is groovy that there is a temp gauge at all...and I am keen on it working :-)

 

[dirtrider]

13 hours ago, DangerCell said:

 

I have owned air cooled bikes since around 1980 so I am intimately aware of what overheating looks like in an air cooled bike. I should have mentioned that I am not quite new to BMW, my other bike, just now joined by this RT, is a 1988 R100GS.  Temp gauge for that is my brain, hand and my nose.

 

That said, "oil cooled" is new to me with this RT, so yeah, paying attn to advice of you oilhead owners. I think it is groovy that there is a temp gauge at all...and I am keen on it working :-)

 

 

 

Morning DangerCell

 

Just keep in mind that on the 1150RT that the front exhaust pipes run REAL CLOSE to the plastic tupperwear above them with little to no air flow with bike sitting still.

 

You can idle the engine at normal low curb idle speed for a while (like long stop lights & sitting in traffic) but NEVER run the engine on fast idle for more than a very short time sitting still without fans blowing on the engine/exhaust pipes as there is  BIG risk of burning, discoloring the plastic tupperware above the pipes, or even causing a fire.   

 

Never idle in place on fast idle,  just start engine then as soon as it stabilizes enough to stay running ride it away (never warm up in place on fast idle).

[Miguel!]

Thanks DR. The manual says the same thing. I presume BMW designed the engine and oil requirements so that even at very cold temps, you don't need to warm it up much. 

 

Miguel

[AndyS]

To be honest, this is true for all modern vehicles - especially those running multigrade oils. The moment the engine starts, there is oil feed to all the key components. Fits and limits are such that you don't need the heat to close the gaps to relevant working tolerances - they are already there. 

[DangerCell]

5 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

 

Morning DangerCell

 

Just keep in mind that on the 1150RT that the front exhaust pipes run REAL CLOSE to the plastic tupperwear above them with little to no air flow with bike sitting still.

 

You can idle the engine at normal low curb idle speed for a while (like long stop lights & sitting in traffic) but NEVER run the engine on fast idle for more than a very short time sitting still without fans blowing on the engine/exhaust pipes as there is  BIG risk of burning, discoloring the plastic tupperware above the pipes, or even causing a fire.   

 

Never idle in place on fast idle,  just start engine then as soon as it stabilizes enough to stay running ride it away (never warm up in place on fast idle).

 

Roger that DR!

 

So, gonna bring to "official" beemer service to give it a go through ( don't normally do this, but good ju ju on this one me thinks). I will get RID sorted. NO HIGH IDLE while taking a leak. 

 

Now, FARKLES!!!!!!!! 

What is the best seat for this machine? I am 6'1" so no need anything low. Found the stock seat very bad...slants fwd at point of contact which is terrible for me. Think I need a little concave and level or even back tilting a tiny bit if anything. 

All I really know of is Sargeant and Corbin. Like looks of Sargent but never sat on one. Which of these worked for you? What else is out there???

[ltljohn]

You may also look at Russel day long pricy but wort it.  I had a Sargent On my RT and it was all day comfortable and reasonably priced.

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, DangerCell said:

 

Roger that DR!

 

So, gonna bring to "official" beemer service to give it a go through ( don't normally do this, but good ju ju on this one me thinks). I will get RID sorted. NO HIGH IDLE while taking a leak. 

 

Now, FARKLES!!!!!!!! 

What is the best seat for this machine? I am 6'1" so no need anything low. Found the stock seat very bad...slants fwd at point of contact which is terrible for me. Think I need a little concave and level or even back tilting a tiny bit if anything. 

All I really know of is Sargeant and Corbin. Like looks of Sargent but never sat on one. Which of these worked for you? What else is out there???

 

 

Afternoon DangerCell

 

Obviously a new (aftermarket) seat is great addition to long term tush comfort but some of us old-time (numb butt) BMW riders could make do quite nicely by just adding a  couple of 1/4" plastic spacers plus longer bolts  to the front of the seat adjuster therefore raising the seat front  up a bit as that tipped the seat more-up in the front so we would stop sliding forward while riding.  

 

Very easy to move the front up 1/4", personally  I would usually use (2) 1/4" spacers on each side to raise  it up 1/2" but 1/2" up is more difficult to make the seat fit & work properly.

 

[Claudio]

Quote

 

What is the best seat for this machine? I am 6'1" so no need anything low. Found the stock seat very bad...slants fwd at point of contact which is terrible for me. Think I need a little concave and level or even back tilting a tiny bit if anything. 

 All I really know of is Sargeant and Corbin. Like looks of Sargent but never sat on one. Which of these worked for you? What else is out there???

 

Hi DC,

 

I am 6'2" (~ 190 lbs), long inseams and had similar experience / discomfort with the stock seat.  The tilting of the seat DR mentions would be worth a try (cheap/easy). In my case the seat was just too soft and I felt it created pressure points on long days so a new saddle was the way to go. I use my stock seat for daily riding in the city.

 

I ended up with the Corbin seat and have logged 150K+ kms with it. It is a very firm (some say rock hard seat) but it works for me. I added a driver backrest to mine which I use on long tours (allows more positions).

 

Only complaint I have on the Corbin is that it is tricky to install/remove (like an impossible child-proof medicine bottle).  I made minor shim-based adjustments to the rear latch to solve the problem. Be prepared to do the same if you go Corbin.  I haven't read any reviews about the Russel Day Long that were negative. I think they are a bit pricier but you'll likely be able to find a good used one for the RT.

[DangerCell]

6 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

 

Afternoon DangerCell

 

Obviously a new (aftermarket) seat is great addition to long term tush comfort but some of us old-time (numb butt) BMW riders could make do quite nicely by just adding a  couple of 1/4" plastic spacers plus longer bolts  to the front of the seat adjuster therefore raising the seat front  up a bit as that tipped the seat more-up in the front so we would stop sliding forward while riding.  

 

Very easy to move the front up 1/4", personally  I would usually use (2) 1/4" spacers on each side to raise  it up 1/2" but 1/2" up is more difficult to make the seat fit & work properly.

Good advice again!

 

But I am getting a good seat. The story as to why I bought the bike to begin with necessitates it! I am goin all in!

 

 

[Charles Elms]

Even with a good seat, you may want to shim the front up.  One of the best, and by far the cheapest, modifications I made to my '97 RT.

[AndyS]

a big +1 to shimming the front of that seat up. It makes a big difference. 

Try this BEFORE changing the seat.

[Trilegy]

Also make sure the back of the seat is in the low grooves (towards the front) and not the higher ones (near the back). 

I realised today after looking at the shim option (because of a very sore butt ongoing and after only 2 hours in the saddle) that I had it placed in the back so it was raised even more up at the back. Its very easy to do as they are so close together.  

Added 2 spacers to the front and the difference was immediate. I'll test it on the weekend properly.

 

ps..this is for low seat setting. Not sure about high settings

[dirtrider]

10 hours ago, Trilegy said:

Also make sure the back of the seat is in the low grooves (towards the front) and not the higher ones (near the back). 

I realised today after looking at the shim option (because of a very sore butt ongoing and after only 2 hours in the saddle) that I had it placed in the back so it was raised even more up at the back. Its very easy to do as they are so close together.  

Added 2 spacers to the front and the difference was immediate. I'll test it on the weekend properly.

 

ps..this is for low seat setting. Not sure about high settings

 

 

Afternoon  Trilegy

 

Yes, that is one of the slight problems with using (2) spacers as that makes the seat naturally want to sit on the middle step at the rear. As long as you are mindful & careful you can force the seat rear bumpers to snap into the lowest step.

 

There is a way to use a Dremel & taper the lower edge of  rear middle step so the seat bumper wants to slide into the lower step easier.

 

 

[PAS]

Is the front seat on the R1100RT basically the same as the R1150RT?  Same front bumpers as the rear?

[dirtrider]

17 hours ago, PAS said:

Is the front seat on the R1100RT basically the same as the R1150RT?  Same front bumpers as the rear?

 

 

 

Afternoon PAS

 

The 1100RT & the 1150RT use basically the same bumpers  but the seat  'front' bumpers (your picture)  are slightly different than the rear bumpers according to my old 1150 parts book(?) _  (but they sure do look the same so possibly my parts book is incorrect).

Or possibly  the bumpers use the same shape  but the durometer of the rubber could be slightly different due to front using the side for compression & the rear using the end for compression.

 

 

 

[Trilegy]

It was before the spacers. Didn't even realise it DOH!!!

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, Trilegy said:

It was before the spacers. Didn't even realise it DOH!!!

 

Morning Trilegy

 

That can happen even without the spacers but without the spacers the seat usually eventually snaps down into the lower step as you ride the bike & the seat works itself  forward. Apparently yours didn't so that.

[DangerCell]

OK. Played with seat adjustments today...was totally on lowest setting in front. So yeah, pretty tilted fwd. Very interesting system. There is a whole lot of adjustment there. Its much better now as far as level. 

 

But I still nabbed this (see pic) for just under $200. Figured what the hay, I'll try that!

 

I think it looks goofy as hell compared to the groovy lines and that fancy patch on the sargents.

And I know these are custom made to an individual butt, but with all that adjustment "room" I imagine I can get it so rollin down the road on it should be pretty posh even though was not made for my specific arse.

 

[Skywagon]

one of the other things I did when I had my 1150, I took those bumpers in DR's phone and cut off some at the top.  You have to be careful not to cut too much, but cutting it lowered the back, therefore raising the front....

[Charles Elms]

I also shaved my rubber seat bumpers on the back side so they would fit into the adjustment ladder at the appropriate position.  I had my front jacked up pretty high.  As I recall, they were pretty cheap.  Just in case I messed it up.  I didn't have to buy new ones.

[tallman]

Goodie, a seat thread.

Hope that one works.

 

If not, try an Airhawk.

Le$$ money. Can take off and on. Bike to bike.

We used the Airhawk and alaskan sheepskin pads for hundreds of thousands of miles.

YMMV