R1150RT Hall effect sensor

[Mark1]

Hi,

Can you folks help me understand a Hall effect replacement on an 1150RT?

 

I have read around the forums and while I understand it, I still really don’t. 

My questions: 

Is there more than one plug end possibility? Do I need to pull the old one before I order to know which one I have?

 

Is the procedure the same as on the 1100? I have seen videos on it but not sure it’s the same for the 1150. 

 

Some people mention a “timing indicator” type light that is used to do the timing. Is this required? If so where would I get one? I have heard people turn it till the fuel pump turns on? Is this sufficient? Or just to get you in the ballpark then use the light?

 

Is the Bosch from BeemerBoneyard going to last better than the old one?

Anyone have an opinion on ordering this sensor from this guy? (Someone posted this on another thread)

Thanks

Mark

 

 

[Tri750]

For the Bosch part , price check ebay as well. There is a supplier there selling the same as BB. 

 

[dan cata]

Wow, my video has 15,192 views

 

There are two types of end connectors, inline 6 or two rows of 3 pins / row. your bike, being a 1150RT, has the 2 rows/ 3 pins per row plug.

After fitting, you can time it using the fuel pump in the tank, described here - https://www.sugarsync.com/pf/D2331532_223_6180416878

 

The plates I sell or refurbish have a lifetime warranty; they will outlast the engine

" Anyone have an opinion on ordering this sensor from this guy? " I would love some reviews, because it helps me improve the stuff I make.

This is how the new sensors get riveted:

 

 

 

Dan.

[Patallaire]

As I understood the "Hall Sensor Problem" and experienced it, it is a wire problem, they dry rot.  It had nothing to do with the plate. How is that a solution to dry brittle wires?

[AndyS]

5 minutes ago, Patallaire said:

As I understood the "Hall Sensor Problem" and experienced it, it is a wire problem, they dry rot.  It had nothing to do with the plate. How is that a solution to dry brittle wires?

 

How is 'what' a solution Pat?

[dirtrider]

10 hours ago, Mark1 said:

Hi,

Can you folks help me understand a Hall effect replacement on an 1150RT?

 

I have read around the forums and while I understand it, I still really don’t. 

My questions: 

Is there more than one plug end possibility? Do I need to pull the old one before I order to know which one I have?

 

Is the procedure the same as on the 1100? I have seen videos on it but not sure it’s the same for the 1150. 

 

Some people mention a “timing indicator” type light that is used to do the timing. Is this required? If so where would I get one? I have heard people turn it till the fuel pump turns on? Is this sufficient? Or just to get you in the ballpark then use the light?

 

Is the Bosch from BeemerBoneyard going to last better than the old one?

Anyone have an opinion on ordering this sensor from this guy? (Someone posted this on another thread)

Thanks

Mark

 

 

Morning Mark

 

I rewire my own so can't really recommend anyone to re-wire yours but  I know a few that have used Dan's & there were no complaints.

 

See Dan's post on how to identify the connector shape as it is spot on.

 

Most of the procedure is same between the 1100 & the 1150 but the base timing setting (if using fuel pump trigger on)  can be slightly different between the 1100 & the 1150 as the spark triggers differently on the HES input signal. Personally I use a timing light & set them at  the high RPM max advance point as that is the important one to have precise. Just keep in mind that on the BMW 1150 that the spark advance is dynamic so it will jump & scoot all over the place with engine running)

 

So my suggestion to you (If you want to use the fuel pump 'ON' to check base timing) is to carefully mark the original HES plate to engine case before removal (mark the screw locations ON the plate,  & mark the ends of the plate on front case).

 

If you have your HES 're-wired' then just use the screw marks to re-align the HES & you will be back very close to where you are now, timing wise. (this is usually how I do it as the only thing that fails on the HES is usually just the wring insulation degrading, not the actual sensors)

 

Now, if you replace your complete HES, or have new sensors installed, then use the marks that you placed on the outside of the original HES to do a preliminary adjustment (that will be pretty close but maybe not exact).  

 

THEN, use the fuel pump trigger-on to set it closer-- First (with key-on) try turning the crankshaft in the engine running direction & see how close the pump-on is to your timing mark  (will probably be way off), then turn the crankshaft in the other direction (counter to running direction ( & see how close the pump-on timing is), will probably be way closer.

 

Use the engine turning direction that is way closer to set your base timing using the fuel pump-on.

 

 

 

 

[Jim Moore]

I've always just put some scribe marks where the old one was, and lined up the new one in the same spot. It's always worked for me. Of course, if I say one thing and Dirtrider says something else, do what Dirtrider says.

[Michaelr11]

7 hours ago, Patallaire said:

As I understood the "Hall Sensor Problem" and experienced it, it is a wire problem, they dry rot.  It had nothing to do with the plate. How is that a solution to dry brittle wires?

 

Pat - it is a solution because the new plate is wired with high temperature heat resistant wiring.  The original defective part had wiring insulation that dried up due to the ambient heat in the location that the plate sits.  Correct wire type should last for the rest of the bikes life.