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Heated handgrips connector prewired under dash?


Miguel!

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2001 R1100RT. I can purchase BMW grips new on eBay for ~US$200 new, less used. My mechanic says the BMW grips are better than the aftermarket grips in his opinion (he an independent BMW mechanic, formally a BMW dealer mechanic and uses mostly BMW parts, he's $130/hour BTW). I'm 5 hours flying time from my bike on vacation away from the cold and rain so thought I'd ask here. My bike does not have heated grips but does have a blank cover for the switch. Anyone know if it has a prewired connector under the dashboard? Thanks!

 

Miguel!

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20 minutes ago, Miguel! said:

I can purchase BMW grips new on eBay for ~US$200 new, less used. My mechanic says the BMW grips are better than the aftermarket grips in his opinion (he an independent BMW mechanic, formally a BMW dealer mechanic and uses mostly BMW parts, he's $130/hour BTW). I'm 5 hours flying time from my bike on vacation away from the cold and rain so thought I'd ask here. My bike does not have heated grips but does have a blank cover for the switch. Anyone know if it has a prewired connector under the dashboard? Thanks!

 

Miguel!

 


Afternoon Miguel!

 

What year/model bike are you working on?

 

No guarantee but a lot of U.S. BMW 1100/1150 bikes came prewired.  If a non U.S. bike then it's anybody's guess.

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I struggled for ages with my duff Heated Grips on the Rockster that I bought used two years ago.  So now, ask me anything about Heated Grips and the chances are I can point you in the right direction.

Even though in the end I abandoned the the H.G. repair 'cos the bike's now in south-eastern Spain where Heated Grips are not needed because of the generally balmy weather all-year-round.  BMW handguards are all that's needed.

 

To attend to absent or faulty Heated Grips, first of all you need the correct right-hand ( throttle ) side grip assembly, which is quite elegantly designed and comprehensively complicated.  Then you need to remove the tank and seek out the two flying leads terminating in small black connectors strapped to the bike's main spine that feed the volts up to the switch and heating elements on the handlebar(s).

The twin wires from under the tank go up to the bar(s) and through a hole beneath the centre section, where your bar risers are fitted, splitting in each direction inside the tubing to the relevant H.G

There's several vids on the Toob showing all this.

 

The three-position switch has OFF, Lo-Heat and Hi-heat in the grip assy and uses a short resistance-wire to heat the grips at half-power for LO.  The switch-wiring schematics are all available on here if you are that kind of expert wiring man.  See my link below.

 

As you're fortunate enough to have available a trained BMW tecnico who's not going to be charging dealer prices,  let him sort you out.

 

Motorworks in Yokk-shurr in the Divided Kingdom has the correct grip assy's at used-item prices and offers a great international shipping service for not a lot of loot.

 

Switch schematic link :-

HG-Schematic-R1150-RT-Dual-Switch.jpg

¡

 

Buena suerte !

 

ALAN in s.e. Spain

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On ‎2‎/‎14‎/‎2019 at 7:48 PM, Miguel! said:

Dirtrider,

Its a 2001 R1100RT, US version. Purchased at Bob's BMW in Jessup Maryland. Thanks for the insights!

 

Best

Miguel

 

Morning Miguel

 

The later U.S. bikes (late 1100RT & 1150) should be pre-wired but I am not 100% sure on the early 1100RT bikes. 

 

Your 1100 bike isn't real early so it is probably OK but you still should still look just to verify. 

 

You can probably tell if your bike is easily updatable to heated grips  by looking at your handlebars (see picture below). Some  early 1100 bikes did not come with pre-drilled handlebars so there is also a chance that  those bikes did not come with heated grip factory prep.  

 

Just look at the underside of the each side handlebar casting for the pre-drilled hole shown in picture. If no hole then installing heated grips either needs new replacement bars or some precise/ precision drilling.

 

The parts book only shows one set of handlebars as all the replacement bars came with the pre-drilled holes. (I used to know the  1100  model year  that the change-over took place but that was so long ago I can't remember off-hand). I think your 2001 is  OK but definitely  look to verify.  

 

 

YPchc1x.jpg

 

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 Señor Alan. Thanks for the useful schematic. It helps complete the puzzle. I'm pretty adept at electrical and electronics and I completely understand it. Enjoy the sun in SE Spain. At the moment I'm in The Mexican Yucatán enjoying weather and water in the low 80s(F) daytime, high 70s night time. Lovely time to escape the rain and cold weather in the San Francisco Bay area. Cheers. Miguel
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Dirt Rider. I'm about two weeks away from my bike at the moment. I'll look when I get home. You picture and info were perfect at helping me understand. My  2001 has a black where the switch is supposed to go but I didn't have time to look at the electrics before I left on vacation. 

 

Thanks!! Miguel

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My '99 R1100RT was pre-wired with the connector tie wrapped to the harness right behind the left dash switches.  Guessing they would not have eliminated that connector after that...but don't take my word on that.  I purchased the OEM heated grip kit and it was plug and play. Routing wires was straight forward if not a bit tedious to get it neat.  YRMV but my OEM heated grips continue to work flawlessly after 19 years...and in Wisconsin they do get used every spring and late fall!

 

 

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For all those that might follow this thread now or in the future, I found a great 2015 post on bmwlt.com that shows a step-by-step installation guide with pictures of installing relatively inexpensive aftermarket under-grip heaters for $20 on his 2000 R1100RT and integrated them with a BMW heater switch he found on eBay for $20. He says they work great and for $20, its worth a shot. I've been hunting for the BMW heated grip kit but haven't been able to find one. I have found used BMW heated grips but no guarantee that they work and most of them look beat up. So I may go the aftermarket way. I rarely ride when its below 40 degrees F so these will probably work great .

 

Probably the only change I would make in the installation is to use a more modern method for connecting the wires under the dash and not bother cutting the connector OEM off and soldering. Your choice but I won't use Scotchloks. Too may reports of them cutting through the wire tho its never happened to me. 

 

Best

Miguel

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