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2018 Key Fob woes


BamaRider

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A search on this subject in this forum only brought a half solution.

 

My 2018 has been mostly dormant since returning from Montana last August.  I shifted the work load to my other 3 bikes because the RT needs servicing, and I wanted to preserve the rear tire for a upcoming trip to California.  I ride it a couple hundred miles a month to keep everything working and charged.

 

-A few weeks ago I got the low battery light on the dash for the key

-I keep the key in the left compartment, my bikes are secured in a climate controlled garage, leaving the keys in the bike helps me keep up with them.

-The bike has been idle the last 31 days.

-I went to the garage to take it for a ride and the key fob failed to initiate the power process, all I got was the blinking red light

-Replaced battery with what I think is a good battery, but no dice

-The spare battery powered the bike and it cranked right up, so the battery is good on the RT, and the problem is now pinpointed to the fob.

-I did notice the fob was damp, but not wet in the battery comp.  The last significant ride on the RT came in November.  A 250 mile ride with the last 130 miles in a torrential downpour, I mean it came down hard on me for 2 hours.  My guess water found its way into the compartment and got the fob, but it could have went down a few days later when I washed the bike (NO power wash, just gentle garden hose.)

- since the ride in the rain I did take the  RT out on a couple 50 mile rides.  I had no issue except for the low battery display.  "I'll get to it later" was my thought at the time.  Low battery light on my cars and I can still go 2 months?  Maybe not on the RT.  Lesson learned.

 

All that background brings us to today.  I'm confident the new battery I put in was good, but maybe not, so I'm going to head up to the nearby Target store and secure a brand new duracell 2032.  I'm  thinking the battery is not the problem, but the fob is.  I did use a hair dryer on it this morning.  However, the unit did perform post rain and wash.  Have I missed anything?

 

I know a NEW fob is a dealer thing, what's the $$$$$ gonna be to replace, if my FOB is DOA?

 

 

 

 

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Is the problem that you are leaving the key in the bike and it is constantly trying to communicate with it - thus leading to a faster discharge of the battery.. This is a WAG because I have no idea how it works. I do know, however, that the key fob should be lasting you MUCH longer than it is.

As an aside, why do you leave the key in the bike? If the bike got stolen, and the insurance company established there was a key sitting there, they may be reluctant to help you sort out the issue.

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Hello BamaRider,

I purchased a second fob when I bought my 2016 R1200RT from Max BMW in South Windsor, CT.

The part number is 66 12 8 555 168  and cost $142.

 

Over the last 3 months, I also got the low battery warning for the key fob on my dash for one, then later for the other of my fobs and have replaced the batteries without further issue.

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Andy wanted to know- "Is the problem that you are leaving the key in the bike and it is constantly trying to communicate with it "

 

I didn't know it did that, if it does could be why it died, but still doesn't explain why the Fob with a new battery is not working.  I press the button and all I get is a flashing red light.  Is it blinking some kind of code??  Do I have to do some kind of reset after replacing the battery?   I did go to Target and installed a brand new 2032 Duracell, still no dice.

 

Then Andy said- "As an aside, why do you leave the key in the bike? If the bike got stolen, and the insurance company established there was a key sitting there, they may be reluctant to help you sort out the issue."

 

My bikes are locked in my garage.  If they tear the door down to steal then I dunno.  I leave the keys in them, makes it easier to find, I don't  have to hunt them up.  I  have 4 bikes, and 3 cars, alot of keys to keep up with and sort.  My cars are also locked in my garage.  Well my 09 Civic isn't, but the 2018 turbo Si for sure has a place next to the bikes.  I leave the key in it too.

 

I was just wondering if there is something else I missed or is my fob kaput.

 

The Boxflyer joined in and said-"

I purchased a second fob when I bought my 2016 R1200RT from Max BMW in South Windsor, CT.

The part number is 66 12 8 555 168  and cost $142.

 

Does the dealer have to do anything special to the fob before turning ya loose?  What about the luggage key?  

 

 

 

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I purchased an extra key for each, my 2008 R1200RT, 2013 K1600GT, as well as the 2016 RT and they are run through the dealership as a safety net to ensure you are the rightful owner of the vehicle that the key is ordered for.

It's easier to rekey any of the other compartments that are controlled by the internal tooth key than you would think.  

 

 

I've been working on my 3D printer to make a valet kind of key that does not have any chip in it to allow unlocking of the cases, or seat, but could not be used to start the bike...

Not very successful, but I'm getting closer to what I want.

image.thumb.png.3934c966d0210ddc5ae4e9d7b70ba8e7.png

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If you think moisture in the FOB is an issue, perhaps you could place it in a ziplock bag with rice.  This was an old trick I read on the internet concerning a cellphone that had been immersed in a toilet.  No, not mine.  Thanks for asking.   

 

It is worth a try, though.

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I strongly suspect the "new" battery in the FOB.  The last time that I replaced the battery in my FOB, it was a "new" unused battery, but an inexpensive brand.  It was bad.  Replaced that with a name-brand battery and everything was fine.  I usually keep a stash of this particular battery because I have needs for them in several of my devices, starting with my "desktop" computer, but that battery only needs to be replaced about every 4-5 years. 

 

The inexpensive brand battery that had not worked was the last of the batch, and was probably been in my storage for a couple of years.  The same may be true for the "new" battery that you had used!

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Ok so I'm down to a new fob, nothing seems to work to resurrect mine.  I've never been a fan of key fobs for this very reason, just too much stuff to go wrong and over complicated, just gimme a key like my 2005 had.  It worked every time.

 

Do I have go back to the dealer I bought the bike from or will any do?

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22 minutes ago, BamaRider said:

Ok so I'm down to a new fob, nothing seems to work to resurrect mine.  I've never been a fan of key fobs for this very reason, just too much stuff to go wrong and over complicated, just gimme a key like my 2005 had.  It worked every time.

 

Do I have go back to the dealer I bought the bike from or will any do?

 

At this point I would take it to a dealer and let them look at it.  I'm sure if you replace you can order one from any dealer not sure how they will check proof of ownership.

 

Jay

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1 hour ago, strataj said:

 

At this point I would take it to a dealer and let them look at it.  I'm sure if you replace you can order one from any dealer not sure how they will check proof of ownership.

 

Jay

When I wanted to get a couple of metal keys and a spare fob for my '17 RS I had to show my title, even though I bought the bike there.  I suppose some sort of registration paperwork might work also.

With all the possible chicanery that can happen these days, I really didn't mind.

 

Frank

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One unlikely thing: make sure you pulled the paper sticker off the fob battery before you installed it.  I've neglected to do that with zinc-air button batteries a couple of times.

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21 hours ago, BamaRider said:

Ok so I'm down to a new fob, nothing seems to work to resurrect mine.  I've never been a fan of key fobs for this very reason, just too much stuff to go wrong and over complicated, just gimme a key like my 2005 had.  It worked every time.

 

Do I have go back to the dealer I bought the bike from or will any do?

You ARE going to make a warranty claim, right??

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Pad got online and put this out-""

"You ARE going to make a warranty claim, right??"

 

I am now.

 

Lemme ask y'all this-  When I press the switch I get the flashing red light.  Does that mean no fob, or is it flashing some kind of code?  You know 3 flashes=blown fuse or et al.

 

The fact the spare key boots up the power tells me all is good on the inside.

 
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1 hour ago, BamaRider said:

Pad got online and put this out-""

"You ARE going to make a warranty claim, right??"

 

I am now.

 

Lemme ask y'all this-  When I press the switch I get the flashing red light.  Does that mean no fob, or is it flashing some kind of code?  You know 3 flashes=blown fuse or et al.

 

The fact the spare key boots up the power tells me all is good on the inside.

 

The flashing red light indicates no authorized key has been recognized.  As far as the number of flashes indicating a specific code for a fault, I cannot confirm.  A tech may have a better idea. 

 

As you have stated, the spare key would lead to the FOB being the culprit.  When you say spare key, does that mean you refer to the emergency key, which is made of plastic?  

My RT is 2019 model and the sales associate could not show me the spot on the tank to place the emergency back-up key for it to be recognized.  I later found out that it goes in the groove, centered between the speedo and tach, just above the screen.  The guy kept trying various spots around the gas filler cap.  Guessing that it changed.

 

Hope you get it sorted.

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11 minutes ago, Bernie said:

The RT owners guide clearly explains where to position the plastic emergency key to unlock and start the bike. 

That is how I found out.  HA

 

Did the location change from prior year models?

 

Still have more to read though.

 

Cheers,

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I don’t know. But I was told that the location is different on different versions of the WetHead bikes. 

Did your dealer not supply you with the factory owners guide for your bike? 

If not you can download a copy from BMW in different languages and also for different model years, if you enter your vin number. 

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Yes, I did get the owner's manual.  The guy was showing me how to work the keyless ignition, but could not spot the emergency key in the right location.  He kept honing in around the gas cap or areas on the tank. He was unaware for the exact location on the 2019 model, which indicates to me that they do vary.  He told me that he could look it up and let me know.  I told him not to worry about it.  Once I got home, I commenced to reading the book.  

 

Thanks!

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8 hours ago, wbw6cos said:

Yes, I did get the owner's manual.  The guy was showing me how to work the keyless ignition, but could not spot the emergency key in the right location.  He kept honing in around the gas cap or areas on the tank. He was unaware for the exact location on the 2019 model, which indicates to me that they do vary.  He told me that he could look it up and let me know.  I told him not to worry about it.  Once I got home, I commenced to reading the book.  

 

Thanks!

Well I am sorry that your salesman didn’t know where to hold the key.

On the 2018 RT it is not by the gas cap, that is all I know.

I am also glad you have been able to figure out where it is for your model.

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Indeed Bernie. It has NEVER been by the petrol filler cap!  It was, and still is a case of insert the emergency key 1 in the gap in the centre above the instrument cluster and the bodywork above it.

 

GS -  touching the rear-wheel cover with the radio-operated key.

R and RS - Insert emergency key  into the slot between front seat and rear seat, in such a way that the emergency key is positioned above aerial.

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Is it possible that your blinking red light could be caused by some new source of electrical interference in your garage?

 

  I say that because on my '16 i will get the blinking red light every time i fill up at one particular gas station, i have to push my bike forward away from the pumps a foot or so to get the fob to be recognized.  I have never had an issue with any other gas station. 

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Oldiron was sitting around and thought of this theory -"Is it possible that your blinking red light could be caused by some new source of electrical interference in your garage?"

 

Maybe.  I'll push it out of the garage and see what happens.

 

As far as the key placement with the emergency/spare key the manual is good.  I've been doing it that way the last week.

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Interference is also a possibility!  I am sure that you will let us know!  :)

 

I usually carry my fob in my riding pant pocket, and one time (don't recall why), I had the fob next to my phone, and possibly shielded by the phone, and had gotten that blinking red light with no response from the RT.  I knew what the cause was though, and repositioned the fob to another pocket at that was that.

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Where you put the fob/plastic key depends on what bike you have.

K1600 is near the filler neck

R1200 GS/GSA is above the rear tire and under the seat

R1200 RT is the gap between the TFT and the dash (plastic key) or [I swear I'm not making this up], remove the right speaker and stick your fob behind the TFT

R1200 RS, etc. - RTFM

 

It would seem that BMW would pick ONE place and always put the sensor there, but no.

 

My experience is that the fob does not like to be in the same pocket as my cellphone. It sometimes fails to connect even if I'm sitting on the bike; if they're separated it'll connect from 5 feet away.

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That part about sticking the fob behind the right speaker is to bypass the antenna, giving it a more direct connection, I guess.  Yeah, I thought that was strange too,

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On my bike, a 2018 RT, the best connection was achieved by removing the windshield and the plate just beneath it.  The center of where that plate sat, when it was in place, gave me a connection in a few seconds.  I've been told that some don't have to remove that plate to get the connection. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update-  My key fob was diagnosed kaput by the dealer.  He advised it had gotten wet.  I told him I was in deluge for 2 hours but the key was tucked away, but somehow water made its way in.  It was never wet, just damp.   Fob was replaced under warranty.   Took a week for it to come in.  The tech has to remove a few things to program the key, didn't say what.  The operation took about 1 hour and I was back on the road.  Fob is working flawlessly and the key opens the panniers.  I don't know how that works, I didn't have the panniers on the bike today, and feared that would be a problem.  I don't know if they copied the old key, or there are several keys out there and they send a fob with the right key using VIN number or something.

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14 hours ago, wbw6cos said:

Is it possible for the old key portion be swapped over to the new FOB?

 

No, I have the old fob and the key is still there.  Reckon its a one key fits all?  Its possible they copied the key somehow, but I'm thinking Motorrad sent the fob with the correct key via the VIN?

 

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Your key in the old FOB should still work.  Now you have a spare key for the cases.  Right?

 

Not real sure about specific process they use to cut  a new key, but I suspect they are machined in lots and many may, or may not, work multiple ignitions (guessing.)  Not a great comparison,  but agricultural, construction, and heavy truck keys work other ignitions.  Mack Truck keys that I had worked quite a few different trucks, very easily, on earlier models (97-2015) according to my experience.  I may be interested to know for certain how mottorad works it.

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On 2/17/2019 at 10:42 AM, BamaRider said:

 

No, I have the old fob and the key is still there.  Reckon its a one key fits all?  Its possible they copied the key somehow, but I'm thinking Motorrad sent the fob with the correct key via the VIN?

 

Yes Motorrad sends the new key matched to the VIN. My brother had a FOB eat batteries for dinner and it too was replaced under warranty.

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2 hours ago, pdpwcd said:

wow I would like to be able to get a second key fob for $142 my dealer gave me a quote for $300.

 

I would suggest you try again at your dealer, or try another dealer.

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  • 1 month later...
On 2/2/2019 at 6:10 PM, WBinDE said:

Where you put the fob/plastic key depends on what bike you have.

K1600 is near the filler neck

R1200 GS/GSA is above the rear tire and under the seat

R1200 RT is the gap between the TFT and the dash (plastic key) or [I swear I'm not making this up], remove the right speaker and stick your fob behind the TFT

R1200 RS, etc. - RTFM

 

It would seem that BMW would pick ONE place and always put the sensor there, but no.

 

My experience is that the fob does not like to be in the same pocket as my cellphone. It sometimes fails to connect even if I'm sitting on the bike; if they're separated it'll connect from 5 feet away.

I had to take my windshield off to activate my new additional fob on my 17 RT. Taking the right speaker out routine was unsuccessful. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

15 Rt my key fob quit working over the winter, it wouldn't work as an emergency key either so I suggest you all keep the plastic key with you at all times. I followed the book instructions to use the dead fob as the emergency key and still nothing, so I took the windscreen and top dash off so I could put the fob right in the center of the pickup ring and still nothing.  My fob did not get wet and wasn't dropped, battery was good so who knows with these computers, just don't get caught on the road without the plastic spare

 

 Every where I looked online the fobs retail price to us is $324 now,  although my dealer showed me they listed at $273 and gave me a 10% discount on that for a total of $261.00

 

 My gs911 showed no faults but the serial number for the key less ride /immobilizer ECU showed just weird characters, no serial # like every other ECU on the bike.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had this issue intermittently. I thought it was a bad battery, replaced it, and still had the occasional blinking red light issue.

 

I found that the battery was not making a good connection with the contacts inside the fob. I played with and adjusted the contacts slightly, and whoa-la!, problem fixed.

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