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Throttle Bodies Control Box


boxerguy

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Yesterday I was exiting the freeway and downshifting, got to gear 3 and all of a sudden there was free play in the handgrip throttle...Oh Oh...

Bike went to idle and I had no throttle response! Pushed the bike to the shoulder and called a Tow truck to get me and bike home!

 

Is there a return spring in the handgrip assembly? or is everything done down in the Throttle Body Junction Box that sits beside the air box?

I removed all the tupperware today and opened the control box to find loose cables in there...Looks like the pulleys in there may be broken....

 

I had the dealer do a valve adjustment and throttle body sync just 2 days prior...Could they have done something to facilitate the incident?

In any event, they said they would send a Tow at their expense to get the bike and troubleshoot it...

I'm sure this junction box with pulleys is very expensive from BMW? is there a place where one can get this item without mortgaging your house??

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Yesterday I was exiting the freeway and downshifting, got to gear 3 and all of a sudden there was free play in the handgrip throttle...Oh Oh...

Bike went to idle and I had no throttle response! Pushed the bike to the shoulder and called a Tow truck to get me and bike home!

 

Is there a return spring in the handgrip assembly? or is everything done down in the Throttle Body Junction Box that sits beside the air box?

I removed all the tupperware today and opened the control box to find loose cables in there...Looks like the pulleys in there may be broken....

 

I had the dealer do a valve adjustment and throttle body sync just 2 days prior...Could they have done something to facilitate the incident?

In any event, they said they would send a Tow at their expense to get the bike and troubleshoot it...

I'm sure this junction box with pulleys is very expensive from BMW? is there a place where one can get this item without mortgaging your house??

 

Morning boxerguy

 

No return spring in twist grip as that free floats but uses the return springs at the throttle bodies for the return tension.

 

Can you more fully explain the cable distributor box pulley's may be broken??? The pulley's in the distributor box are loose with the cruise pulley sort of free floating (they are not solidly tied together) so might appear broken when moving. (is a pulley actually cracked, split, or a piece broken off?)

 

I guess the first thing that I would check is that one of both plastic cams (under the covers) on the throttle bodies are not broken as a broken cam is not unheard of & once they break the cables can go loose. (see picture below)

 

Also, look to see if a cable adjuster (where cable enters the throttle body) on each throttle body is still intact & the threaded end in not broken.

 

It's also possible that the main (pull) cable at the twist grip somehow de-railed & in now not tracking in the twist grip groove. (the throttle cables have a little barrel on the twist grip end that slips into a hole then each cable tracks around in a groove).

 

6wH7W3o.jpg

 

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Good Morning D.R.

 

Thanks for that informative reply! I suspected that there was no return spring at the handgrip, took it apart and found no issues there!

When I opened the cable distributor, I found both wheels free floating and just assumed something was broken, but I actually didn't

see any cracks or broken pieces inside the box...So, as you pointed out with the diagram, it's quite possible one of the short cables

that run to each throttle body has dislodged because of an issue with the cam...

 

Yesterday when I twisted the handgrip back and forth, I could see the cable moving on the left throttle body BUT not the right...

So, with your excellent diagnosis I remember that there was no movement of the cable that went to the RIGHT Throttle Body...So, it's

quite possible there is an issue with that side..

 

The cable adjusters on both sides are intact and the cable ends sit in there as they should. Also the cables track flawlessly in the twist grip barrel.

and they track fine. So I'm assuming now that the issue is probably in the right throttle body...Are those cams readily available to replace?

How likely is it that the return spring could be busted?

 

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Yesterday when I twisted the handgrip back and forth, I could see the cable moving on the left throttle body BUT not the right...

So, with your excellent diagnosis I remember that there was no movement of the cable that went to the RIGHT Throttle Body...So, it's

quite possible there is an issue with that side..

 

 

Morning boxerguy

 

That fits with a broken TB cam possibility, for some reason the R/H side seems to break more than the L/H side. My suspicion is that is due to the R/H side that is usually the one that is adjusted at service. If the R/H side is adjusted too far ahead it can place great force on the TB pulley at wide open throttle when the leading TB cam hits it's WOT stop.

 

There is a circular spring on the cruise control pulley inside the distributor box that can come loose due to lack of cable tension & once that spring is loose the pulley's become very loose & rotational. It is kind of a pain to get the pulley's back in battery, cables hooked up, & the spring in the proper clocking due to the box location & the difficult working angle.

 

The TB cams are actually available (or were anyhow) from BING but they come attached to the throttle plate shaft so the whole shaft needs to be replaced, then the throttle plate properly centered up. The difficult part is then re-setting the idle screw as there is no procedure for doing that (the base idle screw is factory set & very importantly critical)

 

There are (or were anyhow) some aluminum CNC cut aftermarket cams available that attach to the current TB throttle plate shaft. (I haven't ever installed those aluminum TB cams myself but I believe a couple or riders have so look in archives here as maybe there is some Info there)-- Again the base idle screw will have to be set but no BMW procedure on how to do that).

 

If only one side TB cam is broken then there is a home-brewed procedure to match the new-cam-side TB idle screw setting to the known good side base idle screw setting (a bit touchy-feely-guess like but close enough to function).

 

 

 

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Morning D.R.

 

Really appreciate this Synopsis...This gives me some ammunition when dealing with the Dealer...When I called them yesterday to inquire about this

issue, the manager was very quick to offer a free tow to his shop which happens to be 165 miles away!

 

I had the Routine Valve adjustment, and then a throttle body sync done 2 days prior to this issue! it seems too much of a coincidence that I would

experience a problem in the throttle body right after the service was done! I was actually quite surprised that he offered the free Tow, but didn't

question it. The only reason I had them do the initial service, was that I was visiting a friend in Scottsdale Az and they quoted me a very reasonable fee for

both the valve adjustment and Throttle sync, I also supplied them new Plugs and Air filter, seeing as they had to remove the Tupperware to do the service!

 

They have been very good to me in the past. They don't overcharge on their time frame estimate and the service is usually very competent. I had the fuel gauge

replaced under the recall program there, and they did 2 other adjustments, (gear selector and rear brake lever) for me at no charge!

 

I'm suspecting that the manager thinks this cable issue could be due to their tinkering and was quick to offer the Tow to resolve the problem swiftly...

I'm inclined to just let them pick up the bike and see what their troubleshooting shows up...What do you think?

 

As a side note to all of this...The bike ran great before the valve adjustment and Sync, BUT after the service! it ran SUPER NICE...I found more smoothness

and less engine noise at 4000 rpm and above! I was unbelievable impressed with the improvement in performance, So when I encountered the problem the

the other day, it was a big let down of the previous day's high...

 

I try to do most of all my service, especially routine maintenance, like oil, fluid, final drive oil etc, but sometimes for convenience sake, this dealer can be

a good alternative when my schedule is hectic and i want to adhere to strict maintenance schedules!

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Morning boxerguy

 

I believe if it was my bike then the first thing I would do is to figure out IF the TB cam is cracked or broken.

 

After knowing that info you can then get the dealers input on (IF) they will take responsibility for that problem.

 

If the dealer will fix it for you (on their dime) then definitely have it towed.

 

On the other hand if you know up front that they won't repair it for you for free then you could end up with your motorcycle 165 miles away & no good way to get it home to repair it yourself (those throttle bodies bought from the dealer are very expensive & my guess is THAT is the only way a BMW dealer will make the repair).

 

So, my suggestion is to verify the issue at your place first, THEN call the dealer & discuss their options for them doing the repair, then make your (informed) decision from that.

 

 

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I had a broken throttle cam last year, ended getting the TB replaced under aftermarket warranty

 

This is the pulley DR was referring to Bing

 

There are these too Pulley

Edited by ltljohn
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Also, they recorded the measurements before and after...here's the data...It looks like the adjustments were very minimal, but

seemed to make some difference in performance! I'm also very much in tune with how the bike runs, and i guess, I'm reacting

to small changes easily...

 

Intake Valve - before .17 - after .15

 

Exhaust Valve - before .28 - after .30

 

,02mm adjustment seems small to me, but maybe that's enough to notice.

7082.jpg.bd82e08e0c522a97e2623e5a057acbe1.jpg

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Also, they recorded the measurements before and after...here's the data...It looks like the adjustments were very minimal, but

seemed to make some difference in performance! I'm also very much in tune with how the bike runs, and i guess, I'm reacting

to small changes easily...

 

Intake Valve - before .17 - after .15

 

Exhaust Valve - before .28 - after .30

 

,02mm adjustment seems small to me, but maybe that's enough to notice.

 

 

Afternoon boxerguy

 

There is no way any rider could tell the difference in runability between those small changes. (if they are true numbers).

 

If you felt an improvement after service then more likely due to the dealer re-setting the fueling computer adaptives (it will slowly return to how it ran before).

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Afternoon D.R.

 

Thanks for that, I was a bit skeptical that those small adjustments would change the performance that much.

I'm going to confirm today whether the RH Throttle body cam is defective and then talk to the dealer.

 

Thanks!

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I had a broken throttle cam last year, ended getting the TB replaced under aftermarket warranty

 

This is the pulley DR was referring to Bing

 

There are these too Pulley

 

Afternoon ltljohn

 

Those lower ones are ones that I have installed in the past but they are REAL PAIN to install correctly as the originals are swaged on the shaft so have to be removed with great care & a lot of fidgety work, then a special shaft holder & swager made to properly re-attach & expand the shaft without bending or damaging the shaft.

 

Trust me, spend the extra money & buy the shaft/cam assemblies as that will make life so/so/so much easier.

 

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Afternoon D.R.

 

Thanks for that, I was a bit skeptical that those small adjustments would change the performance that much.

I'm going to confirm today whether the RH Throttle body cam is defective and then talk to the dealer.

 

Thanks!

 

Afternoon boxerguy

 

That sounds like a good plan-- let us know what you find & how it works out with the dealer?

 

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Good Evening D.R.

 

Thanks, I will update you on the exact issue and what transpires with the dealer next week. D.R. sounds like you've replaced these before!

Are these cams subject to frequent breakage? I didn't get a chance to look at the bike today, as we actually got a decent rain here in

the Arizona desert...

 

I'm thinking tomorrow will be a better day to look at that right throttle body...The Tow is set for Wed of this week.

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Yesterday I was exiting the freeway and downshifting, got to gear 3 and all of a sudden there was free play in the handgrip throttle...Oh Oh...

Bike went to idle and I had no throttle response! Pushed the bike to the shoulder and called a Tow truck to get me and bike home!

 

Is there a return spring in the handgrip assembly? or is everything done down in the Throttle Body Junction Box that sits beside the air box?

I removed all the tupperware today and opened the control box to find loose cables in there...Looks like the pulleys in there may be broken....

 

I had the dealer do a valve adjustment and throttle body sync just 2 days prior...Could they have done something to facilitate the incident?

In any event, they said they would send a Tow at their expense to get the bike and troubleshoot it...

I'm sure this junction box with pulleys is very expensive from BMW? is there a place where one can get this item without mortgaging your house??

 

Morning boxerguy

 

No return spring in twist grip as that free floats but uses the return springs at the throttle bodies for the return tension.

 

Can you more fully explain the cable distributor box pulley's may be broken??? The pulley's in the distributor box are loose with the cruise pulley sort of free floating (they are not solidly tied together) so might appear broken when moving. (is a pulley actually cracked, split, or a piece broken off?)

 

I guess the first thing that I would check is that one of both plastic cams (under the covers) on the throttle bodies are not broken as a broken cam is not unheard of & once they break the cables can go loose. (see picture below)

 

Also, look to see if a cable adjuster (where cable enters the throttle body) on each throttle body is still intact & the threaded end in not broken.

 

It's also possible that the main (pull) cable at the twist grip somehow de-railed & in now not tracking in the twist grip groove. (the throttle cables have a little barrel on the twist grip end that slips into a hole then each cable tracks around in a groove).

 

6wH7W3o.jpg

 

 

That happened to me. Of course BMW said they never heard of it before. Anyway, I replaced the throttle bodies with one's off a salvage bike. Came with the FI and the throttle setup for $235, versus $1400 BMW wanted to fix it. I know there's a chap in Tucson that makes metal replacement pulleys now. I think they're around $400.

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The Timing of this breakdown couldn't be worse! I've been planning a Bike Trip with 5 other riders from Yuma Az to Cabo San Lucas Mexico

on the southern tip of the Baja...

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The Timing of this breakdown couldn't be worse! I've been planning a Bike Trip with 5 other riders from Yuma Az to Cabo San Lucas Mexico

on the southern tip of the Baja...

 

Morning boxerguy

 

Or put another way, the breakdown could be a savior. Better that it broke now near home (if a broken cam is your problem) than if it had waited & broken 3/4 of way down the Baja peninsula.

 

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Good Evening D.R.

 

Thanks, I will update you on the exact issue and what transpires with the dealer next week. D.R. sounds like you've replaced these before!

Are these cams subject to frequent breakage? I didn't get a chance to look at the bike today, as we actually got a decent rain here in

the Arizona desert...

 

I'm thinking tomorrow will be a better day to look at that right throttle body...The Tow is set for Wed of this week.

 

Morning boxerguy

 

Yes, I have replaced a few over the years, not a lot but more than I should have had to do if Bing would have used a more robust cam material or BMW would have specified more robust TB cams.

 

There seems to be enough reported Throttle Body cam breakages to make me inspect mine before any long trips. If you catch a crack just starting then it can be repaired before it leaves you stranded. Plus, if a rider catches it early enough (crack just starting) the TB cam can be replaced & throttle plate centered, then the base idle screw/vacuum re-set to the same values as before removal (makes getting the base idle screw back close to factory easier, probably not perfect but so far close enough to not cause any runablity problems).

 

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Good Morning D.R.

 

Very good point you have about the timing of this breakdown! It would have been really bad news halfway down the Baja...So, it looks like my takeaway from all of this is, that these T.B Cams slowly develop cracks and then finally let go...Is that right? If that's the case, then your point about periodic checks, especially before any planned major rides, would be very prudent...These cams don't just self-destruct, they show signs of the impending doom that looms in the future! The return springs look robust enough, have you ever had issues with those?

Taking this even one step further in your estimation, what mileage interval would you suggest a rider briefly check these for premature cracks?

I really appreciate all your help and insight, as well as the other riders that have added their comments, as I'm new to these bikes (this is my 2nd boxer)

in 3 years. So far, I'm having a Love/Hate situation with them! I've owned a few Japanese bikes in the past and none of them came close to the superb

handling and centre of gravity of these boxers! Every time I go for a ride on one of these, I have a perpetual smile etched into my face!

But, when I look at this cam issue and my fuel strip issue (by the way, this 3rd fuel strip is still working), oh yes, and final drive issues! I begin to wonder,

what is going on with these guys! What else should I be looking out For??

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Evening boxerguy

...So, it looks like my takeaway from all of this is, that these T.B Cams slowly develop cracks and then finally let go...Is that right?-- I can't tell you this for sure but that seems like what is happening on the ones that I have seen

 

If that's the case, then your point about periodic checks, especially before any planned major rides, would be very prudent...These cams don't just self-destruct, they show signs of the impending doom that looms in the future! -- Again, I can't say for sure or if they ALL act that way but the ones I have seen seem to. The problem is, I have dealt with some that came to me broken & I have no idea if they slowly cracked first or they just broke in one ride.

 

The return springs look robust enough, have you ever had issues with those?-- I haven't seen any break up till now but that doesn't mean that they can't due to wear, or abuse, or???? Easiest way to have spring break sometime in the future is to nick the darn thing with a pair of pliers or a tool as that creates a fracture point.

 

 

Taking this even one step further in your estimation, what mileage interval would you suggest a rider briefly check these for premature cracks? -- No idea but probably a good idea before a long trip or every time that you have the tupperware off.

 

I really appreciate all your help and insight, as well as the other riders that have added their comments, as I'm new to these bikes (this is my 2nd boxer)

in 3 years. So far, I'm having a Love/Hate situation with them! I've owned a few Japanese bikes in the past and none of them came close to the superb

handling and centre of gravity of these boxers! Every time I go for a ride on one of these, I have a perpetual smile etched into my face!

But, when I look at this cam issue and my fuel strip issue (by the way, this 3rd fuel strip is still working), oh yes, and final drive issues! I begin to wonder,

what is going on with these guys! What else should I be looking out For??--BMW definitely has some durability issues in certain areas but they are such a nice riding bike that most of us just accept it deal with the issues as they appear. BMW does use paying riders as beta testers (have for a long time now) so personally I never buy a first year of any BMW model. Your 2009 is well vetted so is probably the best year of the hexheads.

 

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Good Evening D.R.

 

I had a chance today to do some more exploring around those throttle bodies...Yes, definitely it is the right side cam that has split in half..

In one of your previous replies to this thread, you mentioned that the right side was more prone to breakage, especially if a technician

doesn't adjust the Sync Properly....It's too much of a coincidence that I had the Throttle Body Sync performed just one day prior to the

mechanical failure of that cam! I'm convinced now that they must have hastened the demise of that cam during the service!

 

OK, now my question is: when they come on wed of this week to tow me to phoenix, to their repair facility, do I play dumb and see what

transpires in their troubleshooting? OR I'm inclined to tell them in advance that with the help of this forum I did some preliminary work

and found a broken right side throttle body Cam?

 

I'm fully expecting that they should cover the costs for the repair and want them to know that.

It's a bit comforting to know that you think the 09 RT is one of the better hexheads to have purchased...I bought it from a fellow 3 months ago

that only had it a couple of months. he told me it didn't have enough performance for him as He was always interested in the robust performance

of the 6 cylinder inline BMW. I got try one of those puppies 2 weeks ago and found them considerably heavier, harder to chuck around and do a u-turn

in tight spaces, and I hear their thirst for fuel is considerably more!

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Morning boxerguy

 

I had a chance today to do some more exploring around those throttle bodies...Yes, definitely it is the right side cam that has split in half..

In one of your previous replies to this thread, you mentioned that the right side was more prone to breakage, especially if a technician

doesn't adjust the Sync Properly.... It's too much of a coincidence that I had the Throttle Body Sync performed just one day prior to the

mechanical failure of that cam! I'm convinced now that they must have hastened the demise of that cam during the service!-- There isn't a doubt in my mind that (IF) they adjusted the R/H cable tighter that did hasten the TOTAL BREAKAGE on that cam. But their adjustment might not have caused the original crack, probably just caused the final full failure. (thankfully before your trip)

 

If a slight crack caused the R/H TB to be opening slightly late the dealer would probably have adjusted that side cable a little tighter to bring the balance back to even so that could have put even more load on the crack & caused it to totally break.

 

The other thing to keep in mind it that after a dealer service that "the rider" wants to see if they can feel a difference in the service so they keep wringing on the twist grip to wide open throttle. Continually slamming wide open throttle with a crack in the TB cam CAN & WILL hasten the breakage. So if you went to wide open throttle more than you did prior to the breakage then you also contributed to the total breakage.

 

You are going to claim the dealer caused it to break & the dealer is probably going to tell you that is would have broken anyhow so you might want to have a 2nd plan in your head to bargain with them on a compromise.

 

 

OK, now my question is: when they come on wed of this week to tow me to phoenix, to their repair facility, do I play dumb and see what

transpires in their troubleshooting? OR I'm inclined to tell them in advance that with the help of this forum I did some preliminary work

and found a broken right side throttle body Cam? -- Difficult to tell, it depends on the dealer, & how receptive they are to a rider getting involved. You might mention that you are pretty sure the R/H throttle Body cam is broken but don't go any farther or tell them how you think that.

 

I'm fully expecting that they should cover the costs for the repair and want them to know that.-- This is difficult assumption as there is chance they will & chance they wont cover it.

 

In my opinion what you need think about (or discuss with the dealer before having it towed) is WHAT HAPPENS if they tow it to their dealer then decide not to cover the repair???? How will you get it home to repair it yourself, or how much could it cost to have them repair it if they don't cover it??? Or if they will split the repair cost with you???? Etc.

 

Personally, before I had it towed to far off place I would want to know what the options are if they don't repair it for free.

 

On the other hand you might owe that dealer a thanks if that R/H cam was already cracked before they did the service & the service they did caused it to totally break before you were part way down the Baja peninsula & it totally broke down there.

 

I guess the bottom line here is: If it was cracked prior to the service (& it probably was) AND the dealer did adjust the R/H short cable (possibly did if the existing crack allowed a slight lag on that side) then the dealer didn't cause the original problem they just caused it to fully fail earlier than it would have if they didn't do the service.

 

I do blame the dealer for not checking for a cracked cam (IF) they found the R/H side opening late & needed to adjust the R/H cable tighter (Personally, I sure would have checked for a cracked cam once (or IF) I found the R/H side opening late but I don't make my living hustling bikes through service).

 

 

 

 

 

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Good Morning D.R.

 

Your synopsis in the last reply is spot on and I will heed those viewpoints. Playing the devils advocate here! If they want to sell me a new throttle body

to fix it for a quazillion dollars, I'm not going for it, so how much work? expertise? special tools?? etc may be involved in changing out that broken Cam?

 

The other issue here is that I don't have vacuum gauges to perform a proper sync after the repair. That's one reason I opted for them to do it in the first

place. The valve adjustment portion of that service is easy enough to do as I have the feeler gauges, but normally I believe a Throttle Sync would be done

after the valves, hence I just let them do both...This may veer off topic slightly but in your opinion, how useful would it be for a rider to own their own GS911 ??

They are a little pricey brand new, but I've seen used ones from time to time for sale on eBay. Although a Throttle Sync still requires the air measured coming down from the airbox to each body? The GS911 doesn't help with that function. I've had them reset the Service reminder msg's in the past at no charge, because

they were doing something else that required plugging in to the computer. Normally they charge 50 bucks to do that...I believe that service reminder is probably

set to indicate the msg at 4 or 5,000 miles! Do you know if that msg only triggers for a engine oil change or for other regular maintenance items like transmission

oil or Final Drive oil?

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Afternoon boxerguy

 

Your synopsis in the last reply is spot on and I will heed those viewpoints. Playing the devils advocate here! If they want to sell me a new throttle body

to fix it for a quazillion dollars, I'm not going for it, so how much work? expertise? special tools?? etc may be involved in changing out that broken Cam?--Not extremely difficult but that assumes that a person is familiar with working on the BMW Boxer throttle system. It is a bit of a challenge to get it set up correctly & the adjustments back close as well as a fiddily to get the throttle plate properly centered. You might try calling Bing (TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE 620-767-7844) as I t-h-i-n-k that you might be able to send your TB's in & have them do the replacement (how much $$$ I don't know). You will probably need to buy or make a tool to remove the throttle body tube clamps.

Replacing the throttle body cams is NOT a good first 'get acquainted' project for a new BMW hexhead owner.

 

Just keep in mind that there is NO book procedure or book specifications on replacing those TB cams as the BMW contention is they are not replaceable (new Throttle Bodies required), & BING contention is that they are not replicable without special setting fixtures & special flow bench calibration that only they have.

 

 

The other issue here is that I don't have vacuum gauges to perform a proper sync after the repair.--Vacuum gauges are not the best tool for the BMW as you are doing a cross-side balance so need better resolution than most inches of mercury vacuum gauges gives.

Very easy to make a homemade "U" tube manometer that reads in inches of H2o (or ATF fluid).

 

This may veer off topic slightly but in your opinion, how useful would it be for a rider to own their own GS911 ??--If you are going to keep that bike for a long time then a GS-911 is a VERY useful tool & could be a big help in re-setting your TB base idle screw after repair. (you don't really need it but it could make life easier as you can lock the idle steppers)

 

They are a little pricey brand new, but I've seen used ones from time to time for sale on eBay. Although a Throttle Sync still requires the air measured coming down from the airbox to each body? --Not exactly, you are measuring the pressure drop across the throttle plates. But even pressure drop across the throttle plates does equate to equal air flow through the TB's.

 

The GS911 doesn't help with that function. --It does allow you to lock the computer controlled idle stepper's & some like to do the sync that way (personally I like to set the sync just like they are operating while riding the bike).

 

I've had them reset the Service reminder msg's in the past at no charge, because

they were doing something else that required plugging in to the computer. Normally they charge 50 bucks to do that...I believe that service reminder is probably

set to indicate the msg at 4 or 5,000 miles! Do you know if that msg only triggers for a engine oil change or for other regular maintenance items like transmission

oil or Final Drive oil? --It is re-set to the next service interval so what ever next service to be done it should remind you of that. With a GS-911 you can set it to much longer so it doesn't come up to bother you.

 

I usually plan on doing the final drive at rear tire change as you will have the rear wheel off then anyhow & I do the transmission about once a year (or thereabouts when I already have the Tupperware removed for something else).

 

You REALLY should also inspect the L/H TB cam for any signs of cracking starting to appear--If a crack is found then replace both side TB cams (CAUTION do not replace both sides at the same time as that makes getting the base idle screws back to near correct almost impossible).

 

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Good Morning D.R. (or at least it's still morning here in AZ)

 

I do intend to keep this bike for a long time! It's in unbelievably great condition for an 09 and low mileage! It also runs and feels like a new bike, and all

the bike I could ever want or need at this stage in my life. So I think I'll keep my eyes and ears open for a GS911 (used one).

 

Thanks for the tip on checking the Left hand Throttle Cam as well, also I will call Bing to inquire about their service!

 

I'll let you know what transpires after the dealer visit on Wed. of this week!

 

 

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...

I'll let you know what transpires after the dealer visit on Wed. of this week!

Not to crash the party, but you may need to hold that thought. The forum will at some point Wednesday go offline and not be back until late Saturday. Even if you find you can still get to it on Wednesday ,no posts then made will transfer to the new forum.

 

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