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blueridgerider

relocating handlebars

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blueridgerider

Has anyone relocated (raised/moved rearward) the handlebars on a K75?

I recently bought (on the internet) a 1995 K75RT in "excellent condition and ~34k miles". It was indeed as advertised, and the splines were perfect (but the first thing I did was grease them anyway). I've wanted one since I was a much younger man. So, I drove the nearly 900 miles to KCMO to get it, and trailered it home to NC. After riding it a few times, I loved the way it handled. But for a 72 year-old, 6-1, 235 lb. guy like myself, it was an ergonomic nightmare. I decided that the only way I was going to keep it was to make it comfortable to ride.

So I cut 2" off the the rear edge of the stock fairings, fabricated new knee panels, moved the foot pegs about 3" down and 4" forward, and fabricated nice bolt-on shift and footbrake extenders. HUGE improvement! And, the pegs can be restored to stock locations and condition in about 20 minutes. But, now I want to move the handlebars up about an inch or so, and rearward about 5".

Fabricating and installing a riser looks pretty straight-forward. But relocating the harnesses and cables so that there will be sufficient slack for turning lock-to-lock, or even for straight-ahead operation looks a bit more complicated. I've no doubt that most of them will have to be run to the rear of the upper triple-tree yoke instead of over the front of it (and under the tank). I think I can do the electrical mods OK, but am wondering about the control cables (clutch, throttle, brake line, ...)

I have some experience doing wrenching work and modifications on my various bikes, but have never had to deal with cabling to any degree, leaving that to qualified mechanics)

How difficult a job is rerouting those control cables and harnesses?

Is it even possible that I'll have enough slack?

Will I have to have custom cables built?

Always best to see if anyone else has tried something before jumping in with both feet.

 

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Dennis Andress

Look for cables from a similar year K1100 LT. The bars are taller so the cables are longer.

Google "custom motorcycle cables"

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blueridgerider

Great ideas. Thanks! I'll certainly give those serious looks before committing to the modification.

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Tri750

You will probably have better luck looking at K75RT cables.

The Accel cable was upgraded with a diff bracket .

Stand by for a bit.

For the brake line, check with Apex brakes in Niagra Falls NY. Raymond Chan.

He is the most reasonable for custom lines IF his catalogs show the fittings. The master should have a standard 10mm banjo but the other end might be tricky.

I'll have his contact info as well.

 

Edited by Tri750

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Tri750

Ok the S cables.

clutch : 1510mm

Throttle: 969mm

Choke : length not given

Brake line master to center junction is 10mm banjo on both ends.

 

The K75RT

Clutch: 1625mm. PN 3273 2324 960

Throttle: 1142mm. PN 3273 1457 378

Choke: listed as longer but doesn't say length. PN 3273 1451 638

Brake line master to center junction. Elite Automotive, Raymond Chan. havetodoit@hotmail.com

He will need the length from end to end you want and can make a custom line.

 

BUT that much of a set back is unusually long. As you see by the cable length, the factory set the bars back a bit from the S to the RT. 5 inches is huge.

But, you're the boss.

I don't think the factory long cables will be long enough but try Motion Pro in Calif for true custom cables. the price may be enough to change your mind.

 

 

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tallman

Tri 750

 

Well done. :thumbsup:

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