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J. Paganel

I think my clutch is going

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J. Paganel

So, over the last couple of weeks the bike is progressively slower on take-off. I would have the clutch released completely, engine at 5k RPM, and it moves kinda slow. Gets going eventually, but I'm not sure how long that's gonna last.

 

I'm worried enough about it to get a spare bike out of storage.

 

Is there an RS-specific guide on clutch replacements somewhere? Everything I'm finding seems to be about RT, which probably isn't a big deal, I just need to skip half the plastic removal.

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roger 04 rt

It may be that your clutch slave has failed resulting in brake fluid migrating to your clutch disk, making it slippery. You might want to start by examining the fluid in your clutch reservoir and then remove the slave and inspect it. RB

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Jim Moore

You may have also spun your driveshaft. Pull back your boot at the final drive and see if it stinks like rubber. What bike? What year? How many miles?

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WilloCo

Mine was stripped splines on the clutch disc and more damage than I liked on the trans. Swapped the trans and did the clutch all is well now.

It's really not a bad job. I had all the allen head sockets already for my car so all I needed was an alignment tool.

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WilloCo

Oh and a $30 tube of stauberags. :)

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RayG

Have you seen this guy's Videos? I found it worth watching but have not done the job myself yet. In another video he mentions a spline / clutch assembly mis-alignment causing premature main shaft wear because the clutch does not fit over the full splines.

 

The solution is a specialty modified / machined clutch that covers more of the spline area on the shaft. That has me worried since the part was custom made and no longer available so I am not sure what the alternative is.

 

I am searching all over for info that backs this up as discusses alternatives to address this issue. If you're like me you dont want to go back in a year from now or have problems with the main shaft down the road.

 

As mentioned by previous poster a dab of the Staburag NBU 30 PTM applied thoroughly to the transmission shaft (and not Clutch side), all alignment tabs and tip of Clutch rod is important for parts to last and not seize until the next time your in there.

 

 

Good luck

 

Edited by RayG

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Lincoln_Faller

The clutch plate with longer splines is available from Beemerboneyard for $115.95, or from Motorworks in England for 70.83 pounds sterling. When shipping is included, as little as 3 days from England to New Mexico, the dollar price is about the same. No interest in either business, but my dealings with both have been excellent.

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J. Paganel
You may have also spun your driveshaft. Pull back your boot at the final drive and see if it stinks like rubber. What bike? What year? How many miles?

 

96 R1100RS. Something over 100K, the speedo failed.

 

 

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