Ozzyal Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 I'll shortly be due for a service on my recently purchased 2010 RT . Is there any short cuts to removing the body work required to change the gearbox oil ? I'd like to do this every time I change the engine oil if practical . Link to comment
Pappy35 Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 (edited) I watched this just before I bought my Camhead. After two times I can pull off all the plastic (other than the tail cone) in ten minutes. Bit Driver Set This bit of kit is a little pricey but that ratchet (which is maybe 6 " long) is REALLY nice. It holds the bit securely and is perfect for getting the screws under the oil cooler that are a little hard to reach with a power driver. Plus, it has the T25 you'll need. Finally, if you don't have one already, get a little powered screwdriver similar to the one the guy uses in the video. If you have the right tools, a willingness to learn, and little patience you will be able to strip and reinstall all the tupperware in 15 minutes flat after one or two repetitions. For the gearbox oil, you only have to remove the right side upper and right side engine fairing (which is one piece all the way from the right front footpeg, around and over the engine all the way to the tank bag mount rail. Its huge but it easy to remove that way. If I recall correctly one has 4 bolts and the other has 13 including the storage compartment lid. Watch the video and you'll see what I mean. I've got it down to the point where I pull off all the plastic to polish the thing. It really is that easy. Edited August 8, 2018 by Pappy35 1 Link to comment
r100rsman Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 New owner here. Thank you for the tips and info. Link to comment
Pappy35 Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 (edited) Forgot that you also have to remove the tank bag mount frame to get the lower sides off but that's only four more screws and they are easy to get to. Edited August 8, 2018 by Pappy35 Link to comment
Ozzyal Posted August 8, 2018 Author Share Posted August 8, 2018 Thanks Pappy , I'll check it out . I know this series doesn't have any major issues with the gearbox and final drive , but a litre of oil at each engine oil change just seems like good insurance . Link to comment
Ozzyal Posted August 8, 2018 Author Share Posted August 8, 2018 Excellent video . Thanks , makes me feel much easier about removal of the body work . Pity they didn't just make an access hole in the body work though 😉 Link to comment
Pappy35 Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 (edited) Yeah but trust me, those parts, despite the complaints you might read, are well engineered to come off and go on. The side trims, the ones blocking your access to the gearbox fill port, interlock with tank top trim (these are cleverly hidden under the tank bag frame) with molded hooks that fit into slots that the side fairing. These are used to hang the fairing in place while you busily drive all those screws back in. I suppose they could have perhaps done it with fewer bolts but I digress... By removing the plastic, as opposed to drilling an access hole though it, you can put the gear oil bottle's nipple in the hole and fill. The thing with the transmission oil is that the volume needed to fill it can vary a little as, due to its viscosity, there's always some amount trapped in the case (it's stated to be 700ml) so what you're supposed to do is fill it to the bottom of the hole and stop when it starts dribbling out. One could just measure out 700ml and feed it in using a syringe or something like that but the panel will then be in the way of the case and your clean up rag. Get it? Once you get the hang of it just those two panels on the right side can come off in less time than you'll spend to clean up the spilled oil. Edited August 9, 2018 by Pappy35 Link to comment
Ozzyal Posted August 9, 2018 Author Share Posted August 9, 2018 Yep , makes sense . The fact they're all the one size helps too . The R1100RT had different bolts everywhere 😬 Appreciate the input Pappy . I will attack when she's due . 👠Link to comment
BobW03 Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 Good video, I bought Denali brackets to add extra lighting made for the 05-13 RT and this will make life easy when removing the panels Link to comment
jack d Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 ATTENTION: The screws for the storage compartment lid are slightly shorter than the others. If you use the longer screws you could poke a hole in your fuel tank. Link to comment
MichiganBob Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 That's interesting jack d. Never thought of that. Link to comment
Ozzyal Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 Yep sorry, I did notice that on the video 😉 Link to comment
Ozzyal Posted October 2, 2018 Author Share Posted October 2, 2018 Sorry guys , one more question . What viscosity is the gearbox and final drive oil on a 2010 R1200RT ? I'm finding conflicting information online some state 75w90 some 75w140 Link to comment
dirtrider Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 Sorry guys , one more question . What viscosity is the gearbox and final drive oil on a 2010 R1200RT ? I'm finding conflicting information online some state 75w90 some 75w140 Morning Ozzyal The BMW manual calls for Castrol SAF-XO & Castrol SAF-XO is a 75w-90 gear oil. Some BMW 1200RT riders use a 75w140 gear oil in the transmission (on some it helps shifting & on others it hurts shifting so if your gearbox shifts good now then probably stick with 75w90. The final drive should definitely use a good quality non LS 75w90 gear oil. I don't recommend an LS (Limited Slip) gear oil in either the trans or final drive so if possible try to find a good quality non LS gear oil. The final drive only takes 180 ml for each service so you get a number of oil changes per quart or liter. (don't overfill) 1 Link to comment
Ozzyal Posted October 2, 2018 Author Share Posted October 2, 2018 Thanks DR , you're a champion . Gearbox is shifting beautifully at the moment. I plan on doing gearbox and final drive oil change and spline lube every 10,000kms to keep it that way . Link to comment
Ozzyal Posted January 27, 2019 Author Share Posted January 27, 2019 I did the full engine/gearbox/final drive oil change the other day . Yes very simple to remove the body work , also replaced air filter whilst I was in there . All pretty easy thankfully . I'm really enjoying this bike , I have been toying with the idea of trading to a GS , but this bike is pretty damn hard to part with . Link to comment
Pappy35 Posted January 28, 2019 Share Posted January 28, 2019 I'll be doing the 12,000 mile service soon and rather than slog through hundreds of posts about what gear oil to use I just bought a liter at my dealer. I figure no need to worry about the rating, limited-slip this or that, purgle, green, or pink, he said-she said, my oil's the best, yadda...yadda...yadda. He charged me $19. SO maybe a couple of dollars more than elsewhere but it was worth it to save the time and I dropped a few dollars in his coffers to help him stay in business. The next closest BMW dealer is 180 miles away. 1 Link to comment
lkchris Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Doing pretty much any maintenance yourself should be accompanied by ownership of and reference to the DVD service manual available from your BMW dealer. OTOH whenever I remove bodywork, I refer to the installation instructions which came with the BMW plastic plastic valve cover protectors that I've installed. Link to comment
Ozzyal Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share Posted February 27, 2019 I may have missed it , but I don't remember seeing anything about servicing/ adjusting the cam chains on these bikes . Is this something that needs periodic attention ? Link to comment
dirtrider Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 13 minutes ago, Ozzyal said: I may have missed it , but I don't remember seeing anything about servicing/ adjusting the cam chains on these bikes . Is this something that needs periodic attention ? Afternoon Ozzyal No real cam chain service or adjustment as they are hydraulically tensioned so they self compensate as they wear. It wouldn't hurt to do a cam timing check at least once in the early life of the bike though. The good news is that once they are properly set they seem to hold timing without issue for many miles of service from then on. Link to comment
Ozzyal Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share Posted February 27, 2019 Thanks . Hopefully the dealer who has done all the servicing up till my ownership has checked that . Link to comment
dirtrider Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 1 hour ago, Ozzyal said: Thanks . Hopefully the dealer who has done all the servicing up till my ownership has checked that . Evening Ozzyal I would be surprised if they did check it but you might call & see if they will look in their records to verify (more than likely they will tell you that it isn't necessary). You can look up the required service needed at what time frame or mileage on this web site__ Just scroll down to find your model & year. https://www.ascycles.com/bmw_motorcycle_service_and_maintenance_schedules#RDOHC Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now