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Fugu

Windscreen / Front ESA sensor errors 41769 and 41764

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Fugu

Hi everybody. Long time no post...

 

New to me 2005RT 37k miles.

 

ESA is dead, which is fine, I have shocks being built for my baby gorilla self...

 

But at the same time I have a windshield that won't operate. GS-911 currently returning:

 

 

41769 Windscreen sensor / Front ESA sensor malfunction

 

41764 Windscreen / Spring strut adjustment malfunction, short circuit

 

 

 

41769 will not clear. 41764 will clear sometimes.

 

The codes appear whether or not the ESA is plugged in.

 

 

The codes appear with the stock motor/ actuator, and with a replacement (used). Both actuators will operate if I apply 12v to the yellow and green leads on the motor. I was able to stick my windscreen in a happy medium. None of the arms are broken. All parts are clean and move freely. They were a little gunky but nothing was dragging bad, now it's all shiny and lubed by me.

 

GS-911 cannot calibrate windscreen. It reads the windscreen present, the up and down buttons are connecting per GS-911 but the ZFE wont' send juice to make the screen go up and down. I have tried with bike running and with it not running but on charger to make sure I'm over 12.6V.

 

 

I bought the bike and the screen died on test ride. I figured (like a moron) easy fix. Seller knocked bucks off bike price and I ordered a $25 used replacement. Imagine my joy when that didn't fix the screen....

 

 

 

Any ideas? Anyone have a wiring diagram? Anyone have a rope and a tree for me?

 

 

I plan to pull all the plastics again, leave the front ESA disconnected until my new shocks arrive, and try to manually trace the 5x wires from the actuator back to the ZFE ( I presume that's where it goes, but I guess I will have to pull the tank off to really know ) Have to look up the procedure on tank yanking for this bike. This is my newest BMW ever and so far I'm really super happy with having a ZFE computer on board. grumble grumble. One of the wires at the actuator has 12V, I'm assuming that supplies juice to the little sensor in it (looks like a little hall effect sensor)

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dirtrider

Evening Fugu

 

Those are some strange interwoven codes. I'm thinking this is something that you will need to talk with HexCode to see if they have any info on how those codes are interconnected.

 

As for a wire diagram, I do have it BUT it isn't as you would imagine as it is in the new BMW wire diagram format that doesn't show much & isn't in .PDF format.

 

Really doesn't help much anyhow as all it shows is the 5 wires from the motor assembly returning directly to the ZFE & the 3 wires from the switch simply returning directly to the ZFE. Nothing shown once inside the ZFE or how it controls or receives the inputs.

 

On the 5 from the motor part-- the violet (+) & blue (-) are motor operating, the brown isn't labeled but brown is always low (ground), the gray/green is sensor (+), the gray/blue is sensor (s).

 

I suppose that inside the ZFE that some of the inner circuits could drive both the windshield & the EAS so possibly (mostly a guess) once the ESA control is shut down & locked out that might be effecting the windshield part (longshot on this one though)

 

I guess if you can't easily or cheaply get it sorted you could always make it a manual control & install an 1150RT power windshield switch & relays (somewhere) & just run the motor part using that for a up & down control. You would just have to be careful to not drive the windscreen too far in either direction.

 

 

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Fugu

Thanks for the info on the ZFE side of the plug color coding and the input. When you say the gray/ green is sensor (+) you mean it should be hot when the bike is on, correct? The violet and blue switch polarity to make the motor move one way or the other, I'm assuming. They correspond to yellow and green on the motor side of the connector, and applying voltage to those wires makes the motor go one way or the other.

 

I did consider installing a simple switch to motor the screen up and down as a last resort. I haven't entirely given up on fixing this yet.

 

I need to unplug the front and rear ESA and reset everything again, I have to pull more tupperware. I was plugging and unplugging them and trying to figure stuff out then hastily bolted the dumb thing back up to go ride it and the ESA is currently plugged in and plugs obscured by plastic.

 

Just messed with it for a minute and the 41764 cleared. 41769 on my phone (as opposed to computer) says something like "not present/ disconnected" about the sensor. That's interesting. I walked to computer to post this and the stupid app reset, however and the exact wording is now gone, but made me wonder if maybe the sensor wire is broken somewhere in the harness or something similarly low tech. When I pull the tank I should be able to rig a jumper around and see if there's any merit to that idea.

 

The thought has occurred to me that the $25 actuator I got off fleabay could be a dud. They have a little hall effect sensor in them, it's not impossible that they both have the same sensor failure, I guess.

 

 

 

 

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lkraus

Odd combination of errors. Wiring damaged by too-tight cable ties?

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Fugu

What I could see the other day looked ok but I have to pull

The tank to really test the wires between the windshield Motor and ZFE.

 

The ESA wires and windshield wires enter the harness at different points and run together only under the tank from

What I can see.

 

Either I find something under the tank, I guess, or I get a good look at the ZFE so as to be able to match numbers for possible replacement.

 

 

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Fugu

It seems really bizarre that at least two error codes combine windscreen and ESA though. Who thought that was a good idea?

 

 

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dirtrider
What I could see the other day looked ok but I have to pull

The tank to really test the wires between the windshield Motor and ZFE.

 

The ESA wires and windshield wires enter the harness at different points and run together only under the tank from

What I can see.

 

Either I find something under the tank, I guess, or I get a good look at the ZFE so as to be able to match numbers for possible replacement.

 

 

Morning Fugu

 

Replacing the ZFE isn't that easy as it has to be programed into the bike & I'm not even sure that is possible with a used ZFE that has been previously programed into a different motorcycle.

 

Did the guy that you bought the bike from try to get the ESA repaired or re-programmed at the dealer? The 05 bikes used a different ESA system than the later 1200RT bikes so there were more than few different CIP's that dealers would try to push in. It's possible that something went wrong in the ZFE re-programing that is causing your current windshield issues.

 

BMW dealer is kind of limited in what they can select or re-program as it is limited to what the entered VIN will allow. My guess is that there must be some work-arounds but the majority of BMW dealers & technicians just wont go there or even try.

 

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Fugu

Hi Dirtrider-

 

He didn't know the ESA was kaput. The windshield operated for a minute then died right in front of me, so doubtful it was a problem that existed before.

 

I have the bike service history and other 05 recalls were done, fuel strip, fuel pump collar, etc. no mention of ESA.

 

The bike had sat for a bit prior to me buying it.

 

I'll check with the dealer re re-programming ZFE. Another foellow I've chatted with about this reported that provided the ZFE is configured the same, it can be programmed to

The bike That's one guy, unsubstantiated, but he had the same problem and error codes as me. I Found and old thread at GS 911 forums and he replied to messages I sent him.

 

Sorry about typos I'm on a mobile

 

Edited by Fugu

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dirtrider
Hi Dirtrider-

 

He didn't know the ESA was kaput. The windshield operated for a minute then died right in front of me, so doubtful it was a problem that existed before.

 

I have the bike service history and other 05 recalls were done, fuel strip, fuel pump collar, etc. no mention of ESA.

 

The bike had sat for a bit prior to me buying it.

 

I'll check with the dealer re re-programming ZFE. Another foellow I've chatted with about this reported that provided the ZFE is configured the same, it can be programmed to

The bike That's one guy, unsubstantiated, but he had the same problem and error codes as me. I Found and old thread at GS 911 forums and he replied to messages I sent him.

 

Sorry about typos I'm on a mobile

 

Evening Fugu

 

Just a thought & something easy to try. Try a battery disconnect for about 1/2 hour then re-connect & do a new TPS relearn. Might clear a ZFE internal problem. The TPS relearn has nothing to do with the problem just something that should be done after a battery disconnect.

 

I see no outright reason that a used ZFE can't be programed into your bike, I see the problem on the dealer end as they have to enter the VIN to do anything & once the dealer computer sees a non matching ZFE with a different odo mileage in it I think that is as far as the dealer can go without finding a workaround. But if someone has actually had it done then there must be a way (hopefully anyhow).

 

I would sort of be surprised if your dealer will even try it (you might task them about the possibility before looking for a used ZFE).

 

The previous owner didn't remove something before selling the bike, like the radio, or TPS system, did he? If something was removed that was on the CAN (CanBus) that could have left an open (unsuppressed) CAN termination.

 

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Fugu

Thanks for the suggestion Dirtrider. I'll try that when I get a moment.

 

The battery has been disconnected twice now but neither time for a long time (30 seconds) I didn't relearn TPS either time (as I was ignorant) and it runs great. That probably means it wasn't off power long enough to reset.

 

I understand the procedure after prolonged disconnect is as follows:

 

Ignition on, engine not running.

 

Open throttle fully. Hold 1 second. Return to closed.

 

Repeat 2 more times for total of 3.

 

Turn bike off.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Fugu

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dirtrider
Thanks for the suggestion Dirtrider. I'll try that when I get a moment.

 

The battery has been disconnected twice now but neither time for a long time (30 seconds) I didn't relearn TPS either time (as I was ignorant) and it runs great. That probably means it wasn't off power long enough to reset.

 

I understand the procedure after prolonged disconnect is as follows:

 

Ignition on, engine not running.

 

Open throttle fully. Hold 1 second. Return to closed.

 

Repeat 2 more times for total of 3.

 

Turn bike off.

 

 

 

 

 

Morning Fugu

 

That should work but no need to hold open for 1 second.

 

All It needs is key-to-on (not running), then fully open then fully close throttle once (that is basically it).

 

Most do the "fully open then fully close throttle" 3 times but the second & third times are not really needed on the hexhead (but it doesn't hurt either).

 

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NickInSac

I didn't see this in the thread.

 

Is the ESA shocks connected on the bike? You say it doesn't work. I wonder if the non-working ESA shocks are stopping the ZFE from allowing power to the windscreen.

 

On my 2006, the ESA is disconnected. I get the error on my GS-911 all the time, that the ESA does not have correct voltage. I do not get a windscreen error code.

 

I had a short on the neck of the steering column. From turning the handlebars (98k miles at the time) back and forth, the harness, the wire and the black frame paint wore through and shorted out the EGR circuit, O2 sensor heating element and the idle circuits.

 

Hence, I am leaning towards a power circuit that powers the ESA and the windshield.

 

Good luck.

 

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Fugu

Thanks Nic and continued thanks to Dirtrider

 

I am in the middle of a bathroom remodel right above my home office. Time during the week is a bit rare right now and I've done nothing on the bike this work week.

 

That said- if I get a chance this weekend or next time I have time i intend to:

 

Unplug battery.

Pull Tupperware on R side and front.

Disconnect ESA front and rear all plugs. (One by lock for cubby hole in fairing, two right side rear under seat)

inspect what I can see of wiring for the windshield. Again.

 

By this stage I ought to have had it unplugged long enough to have reset the ZFE

 

Connect battery, turn on ignition

Twist throttle wide open to calibrate

Turn off ignition

 

Turn on ignition, connect Gs-911 and scan for then clear any codes.

 

Try windshield calibration.

 

Either celebrate, or hang myself.

 

Ok after they cut me down, if needed:

 

Swap old windscreen motor back in and try again.

 

Pull tank off.

Check each wire from windscreen motor plug to plug to ZFE with multi meter

 

Either repair or jumper around any bad wire(s)

 

At that point if it's not fixed I'll drink myself silly.

 

 

 

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Fugu

Well I haven't hung myself yet.

 

The ESA shocks are in the trash bin. All plugs unplugged.

 

I had the battery disconnected for a long time. Powered back up and same issues.

 

I had the windshield motor apart. It's pretty simple. A small board with a hall sensor. All connections are good to plug. I have two motor assemblies here too so unless they have identical failures it's gotta be the bike one would think.

 

At the bike side I see ground, 5v on the terminal so labeled on the motor board, and 12v on the terminal marked HS on motor board. Assume is hall sensor.

 

The motor spins well when I apply 12v

 

Did I mention the Gs-911 reads switch contact from the handlebar switch? It does. Up and down.

 

Have tank off. Now trying to find wires at ZFE end. Connections in Plugs at ZFE look good/ clean shiny

 

 

Edited by Fugu

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Fugu

I might have found a broken wire. I'm tired of screwing with this. Did shock replacement then returned to messing with windscreen.

 

Gray wire w/ White stripe doesn't appear continuous between actuator plug and ZFE plug.

 

I need to check again when I have clear eyes. Need to check other ZFE plug as well. Don't know which is which. I opened one, found gray w/green stripe right by gray w/ white stripe. I assume they are the ones but lots of wires. Will try to find the other three in the bundle and check the other bundle before doing anything drastic like jumping a new wire from plug to plug.

 

I'd be happy if it's that one stupid wire though.

 

Back at it in the morning. Dinner, beverages and feet up are calling me. Been a long ass week

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dirtrider
I might have found a broken wire. I'm tired of screwing with this. Did shock replacement then returned to messing with windscreen.

 

Gray wire w/ White stripe doesn't appear continuous between actuator plug and ZFE plug.

 

I need to check again when I have clear eyes. Need to check other ZFE plug as well. Don't know which is which. I opened one, found gray w/green stripe right by gray w/ white stripe. I assume they are the ones but lots of wires. Will try to find the other three in the bundle and check the other bundle before doing anything drastic like jumping a new wire from plug to plug.

 

I'd be happy if it's that one stupid wire though.

 

Back at it in the morning. Dinner, beverages and feet up are calling me. Been a long ass week

 

Morning Fugu

 

The Gray/White wire turns to Gray/Blue at the 5 pin connector coming from the motor, the Gray/Green stays Gray/Green all the way to the ZFE.

 

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Fugu

Thanks Dirtrider, I'm pretty sure i don't have a gray w/blue at the actuator end unless it's such a light blue it's appearing white. I'll double check shortly. Will look for gray w/ blue at the ZFE plug end as well.

 

 

Edited by Fugu

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dirtrider
Thanks Dirtrider, I'm pretty sure i don't have a gray w/blue at the actuator end unless it's such a light blue it's appearing white. I'll double check shortly. Will look for gray w/ blue at the ZFE plug end as well.

 

 

 

Afternoon Fugu

 

The wire should be Gray/White at the ZFE end & change to Gray/Blue at motor plug.

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Fugu

Dirtrider it is definitely not gray/ blue at windscreen actuator. It's gray w/ white.

 

Of the 5 wires at the actuator I can trace 4 of them from actuator plug to ZFE plug. With both ends unplugged metering from the plug pins I have continuity end to end.

 

The grey w/white from the actuator I just located in the other bundle to ZFE so that wire connects to ZFE just in the other bundle. Again tested with plugs pulled so theoretically just wires.

 

If all the wires get to ZFE I'm running out of options here. Either the original motor went bad AND the used replacement the was reportedly working went bad in the same way, or the ZFE itself is bad.

 

Note both motors turn when given voltage. No idea how I'd test the just bigger than a pinhead Hall effect sensor in them.

 

Pretty goddamn sick of this.

 

 

Edited by Fugu

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dirtrider
Dirtrider it is definitely not gray/ blue at windscreen actuator. It's gray w/ white.

 

Of the 5 wires at the actuator I can trace 4 of them from actuator plug to ZFE plug. With both ends unplugged metering from the plug pins I have continuity end to end.

 

The gray/ white does not get there. It's not shorted to any others that I can tell. It's not connected to any other ZFE pins.

 

The killer is I jumpered it and nothing changed.

 

So I'm flummoxed.

 

 

 

Afternoon Fugu

 

OK, my wire schematic shows the 2005 1200RT being Gray/White as it exits the ZFE & changing to Gray/Blue at the motor HES connector (possibly BMW changed that to all Gray/White as the production year progressed.

 

The Gray/White wire enters in a different place at the ZFE (pin 32).

 

Do NOT run 12v to that Gray/white wire as it is the actuator HES sensor wire so would never see 12v.

 

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Fugu

I edited as you were replying. I found that gray/ white in the other ZFE plug.

 

I'm at a complete loss here. I guess next is a brand new actuator to try, or a ZFE but I'm not sure which of the numbers have to match perfectly on that replacement or I guess take it to a dealer and let them go crazy before I do.

 

I appreciate your continued input.

 

No, I wouldn't give any of these wires 12v, but I've fed the motors 12v directly to verify they turn by pulling them out of the gearbox/ sensor assembly.

 

 

 

 

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Fugu

Just checked and yes pin 32 is the gray w/ white.

 

The Assholes used gray w/white on the other plug too. Pin 57??

 

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Fugu

When I said I “jumpered” it I meant I used a lead with alligator clips on each end to make the circuit between the actuator end and the ZFE plug end, to make it a continuous wire.

 

Which turned out fruitless because although 4 of the actuator motor wires are in one ZFE plug, the 5th is in the other ZFE plug and is unbroken.

 

 

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dirtrider
When I said I “jumpered” it I meant I used a lead with alligator clips on each end to make the circuit between the actuator end and the ZFE plug end, to make it a continuous wire.

 

Which turned out fruitless because although 4 of the actuator motor wires are in one ZFE plug, the 5th is in the other ZFE plug and is unbroken.

 

 

Afternoon Fugu

 

Did you have a good medium to high output battery charger on the bike's battery when you tried to calibrate the windscreen/actuator?

 

My BMW dealer service manual says that programming will terminate if system voltage drops below 12.6 volts during programing.

 

Have you checked the continuity of the 3 wires between the handlebar switch & the ZFE?

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Fugu

I have a charger on it and I've been watching voltage. I have previously tried with engine running.

 

I will try right now with a larger charger straight to battery since I can't run bike with tank off.

 

I haven't manually checked continuity between bar switch and ZFE- BUT the Gs-911 shows the ZFE is registering the button presses. I assumed that meant the ZFE is getting the up/ down signal from the bar switch.

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Fugu

It returns this error:

 

An error occurred during calibration: calibration started, but not yet running

 

Nothing moves. I've tried this probably 25 times all told. Losing hope.

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Fugu

The Gs-911 readout for bar switches has been verified again. It reads up press, and down press in real time.

 

There is “windscreen sensor” listed under switch positions and it shows “off” continually. Not clear if this is the HES sensor in the windshield actuator or something else. It doesn't matter which motor is plugged in. No change.

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dirtrider
It returns this error:

 

An error occurred during calibration: calibration started, but not yet running

 

Nothing moves. I've tried this probably 25 times all told. Losing hope.

 

Afternoon Fugu

 

You might try a battery disconnect for about 20 minutes, then re-connect, then re-try the calibration.

 

You might also try manually powering the motor to mid travel THEN try the calibration (I have had this work on a rear strut that wouldn't calibrate until I set it at about mid travel)

 

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Fugu

I did disconnection repeatedly. As long as overnight. Can try again. I can clear the errors if no windshield actuator is plugged in.

 

The motor has infinite travel when out of the arm assembly. The rotor affixed to the gear which is what the HES reads has numerous magnets or metallic elements about 3mm wide and spaced about 3mm apart around the entire disc.

 

I've tried to calibrate an actuator with that disc spun various orientations.

 

The calibration routine isn't even moving the motor

 

Perhaps the HES in the stock actuator is bad and the cheap used replacement I got which was advertised as working, is also broken.

 

Right now with the bike on, metering the plug at the actuator, the ZFE is sending 5.25v on the gray/ green and 12.75v on gray/ white using the brown as ground.

 

 

 

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Fugu

Oh, and the motor assembly in the bike is at mid travel. I can't calibrate it or the loose assembly or just the loose board while manually slowly turning the HES ring. No change regardless.

 

Perhaps two bad HES sensors.

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dirtrider

 

Right now with the bike on, metering the plug at the actuator, the ZFE is sending 5.25v on the gray/ green and 12.75v on gray/ white using the brown as ground.

 

 

 

Afternoon Fugu

 

I haven't ever measured one but this doesn't sound correct.

 

The gray/ green @ 5v sounds good but the gray/ white is the HES sensing output so I wouldn't think it should ever be at 12v with a 5v input. See if that gray/ white is still at 12v with the actuator disconnected.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Fugu

I think I'm ordering a brand new actuator tomorrow.

 

What are odds of the HES in the factory actuator failing on my test ride and the HES in the used replacement having the same failure?

 

I don't know what else to possibly do next.

 

If it's the actuator assemblies any “savings” by trying to use the used motor have evaporated in time and frustration.

 

If it's not, then it's the ZFE and I will probably just Hotwire the goddamn thing, the problem with that is I'll have to always be very careful since the gear is plastic held in a plastic case held together by nothing but clips. Perhaps if driven past limits that gear harmlessly skips. Or perhaps it strips it or breaks the tabs off.

 

I'd like it to work properly.

 

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dirtrider
I think I'm ordering a brand new actuator tomorrow.

 

What are odds of the HES in the factory actuator failing on my test ride and the HES in the used replacement having the same failure?

 

I don't know what else to possibly do next.

 

If it's the actuator assemblies any “savings” by trying to use the used motor have evaporated in time and frustration.

 

If it's not, then it's the ZFE and I will probably just Hotwire the goddamn thing, the problem with that is I'll have to always be very careful since the gear is plastic held in a plastic case held together by nothing but clips. Perhaps if driven past limits that gear harmlessly skips. Or perhaps it strips it or breaks the tabs off.

 

I'd like it to work properly.

 

Afternoon Fugu

 

I guess if it were mine I would first see if the gray/white is still at 12v+ with it disconnected on both ends. If it goes dead then maybe a ZFE problem or it is normal due to your voltmeter having more resistance then the pulldown resistor inside the ZFE.

 

If it is still at 12v with it disconnected on both ends then it is getting stray 12 from somewhere (maybe an add-on accessory hooked in).

 

You might also go to the Hexcode web site (or call them) & see if the GS-911 is capable of calibrating the 2005 windshield (my wire diagram calls out a difference between the 2005/2006 & the later 2007/up windshield circuits but I'll be darned if I can find any difference by looking at the schematic.

 

 

 

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Fugu

The gray/ green @ 5v sounds good but the gray/ white is the HES sensing output so I wouldn't think it should ever be at 12v with a 5v input. See if that gray/ white is still at 12v with the actuator disconnected.

 

 

Those were the voltages at the plug with the actuator disconnected. Disconnected the gray/ white has 12v

 

When I connect the actuators I still see 5v in the gray/green but the gray/ white is 1.5v, that's the same on both. I thought I saw 7.5v for a minute but I can't duplicate that.

 

 

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dirtrider

The gray/ green @ 5v sounds good but the gray/ white is the HES sensing output so I wouldn't think it should ever be at 12v with a 5v input. See if that gray/ white is still at 12v with the actuator disconnected.

 

 

Those were the voltages at the plug with the actuator disconnected. Disconnected the gray/ white has 12v

 

When I connect the actuators I still see 5v in the gray/green but the gray/ white is 1.5v, that's the same on both. I thought I saw 7.5v for a minute but I can't duplicate that.

 

 

Afternoon Fugu

 

OK, that sounds more in line. That 12v is probably just very a very low ZFE internal bias voltage that your voltmeter doesn't put enough load on to pull down.

 

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Fugu

I found a fellow at Gs-911 forums with similar issue once. He replaced ZFE. His thread had zero replies. I messaged him and he verified ZFE replacement fixed his.... I hear “match the ZFE numbers and it is a drop in”

 

And I hear the ZFE can't be reprogrammed. That's a bummer.

 

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dirtrider

 

Afternoon Fugu

 

Just a quick thought-- do you have the latest available updates installed in your GS-911?

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dirtrider

Afternoon Fugu

 

One other quick thought-- have you measured for voltage at the (unplugged) motor connector? (just statically with no up/down button push). If that shows a stray voltage 5v to 8v ish coming from the ZFE that might point to a driver problem inside the ZFE.

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Fugu

It's a month old Gs-911 that I updated when I got it but I'll check firmware later and also check for stray voltage as you mention. I can do that later tonight.

 

Thanks again for all of your help. Despite the issue persisting I really appreciate the assistance

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dirtrider
I found a fellow at Gs-911 forums with similar issue once. He replaced ZFE. His thread had zero replies. I messaged him and he verified ZFE replacement fixed his.... I hear “match the ZFE numbers and it is a drop in”

 

And I hear the ZFE can't be reprogrammed. That's a bummer.

 

 

Evening Fugu

 

On the later 1200RT bikes you can't just toss a new (even matching number) ZFE in & have it work. You m-i-g-h-t be able to on the 2005 early 2006 as the early bikes didn't integrate the ZFE like the later bikes.

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Fugu

Good evening here now, dirtrider. Firmware is current. No apparent voltage leak at motor leads. Pretty consistent tiny voltage shown,like 0.0375v each lead. Thought it was interesting they were identical and tiny. Not so much relevant to the issue but still sort of interesting for some reason.

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Fugu

Well I have two ZFE modules en route. One “untested” and identical to mine from an 05. One reported working from an 06 with very similar specs.

 

I have another actuator enroute as well.

 

Total cost for these used parts is very low. Less than an hour of shop time. If there's no help I will button her back up with a lead rigged to adjust screen and ride it that way into winter then get it to a shop over winter months.

 

I want to get this thing on the road fancy screen or not for the next good riding months.

Edited by Fugu

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dirtrider
Well I have two ZFE modules en route. One “untested” and identical to mine from an 05. One reported working from an 06 with very similar specs.

 

I have another actuator enroute as well.

 

Total cost for these used parts is very low. Less than an hour of shop time. If there's no help I will button her back up with a lead rigged to adjust screen and rode it that way into winter then get it to a shop over winter months.

 

I want to get this thing on the road for the next good riding months.

 

Afternoon Fugu

 

If you have to rig up a separate control you might try using 2 small double throw style relays with 2 terminals (one terminal N/C & one terminal N/O) run the motor leads to the common then ground the N/C terminal. Then have your original handlebar switch operate one relay for up & one relay for down. At rest both motor legs will be low (grounded), when the switch is pushed one motor lead will still be grounded on the non triggered relay & the triggered relay will power the other motor lead. It will reverse when the other button is pushed. (just like on the BMW 1100/1150 bikes)

 

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Fugu

Thanks Dirtrider, I haven't found the wires from

the factory switch under the tank yet but if we get that far I'll be doing so. Hopefully there's one wire for up and one for down as opposed to some other arrangement like polarity reversal, but I should be able to relay around either.

 

My short term temporary plan was to unplug the harness and just run two wires from the motor leads to back under the seat. I could then touch them to battery as needed to make manual electric adjustment at no risk to anything but the actuator. Quick and dirty temporary fix.

 

Your solution is what I will do if I never get this fixed properly with factory parts. The only downside is as mentioned earlier- the cheap plastic gear and housing. If I push the button too long at the limit of travel- or more likely hit the button inadvertently and over travel the actuator it will be a contest between the cast metal windshield arms and the plastic gears/ box cover... I guess the MO will become to never leave the screen full up or full down to give a little buffer. It's rarely if ever used in either position anyhow.

 

Appreciate the layout/ plan on the relays. I like that plan of yours and after a minute of staring at them to remember what goes where I can usually handle basic relay wiring.

 

I'm hopeful one of the ZFEs or the actuator fixes things. I'm

a little nervous about the ZFE now, if part of it is dead what's next? Something crucial?

 

Cross fingers one of the used ones works for me or the different actuator does.

 

 

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dirtrider

Evening Fugu

 

Windscreen switch on the 1200RT is pretty simple.

 

SJq8I9O.jpg

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Fugu

Thanks! Maybe if the parts coming don't solve the issue I'll go ahead and relay it up and be done.

 

At this point the bike sets there naked with new shocks looking at me pitifully. I can swap the ZFE and actuator in a few minutes and I'll know if I have to be creative.

 

 

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Fugu

Well I just plugged in a ZFE from a 2006 R1200RT.

 

AND THE WINDSCREEN WORKS.

 

son of a B.

 

it was the %##@$& ZFE the whole time!

 

The Gs-911 reports that the proper equipment is being read by the ZFE- heated grips and seats and whatnot. ABS present.

 

Not sure if I have to recalibrate the fuel strip sensor or some such there.

 

I think I'll put the tank back on and plug the front lights and stuff back in and see if everything works?

 

Don't have a ton more time today but I'm cautiously optimistic about having this resolved.

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Fugu

Everything I can test with the tank off and bike half unplugged seems to be OK.

 

Gonna run through with the laptop Gs-911 not just phone. Run screen calibration (it seems to have self limited already)

 

See if I can do anything else before bolting all back together but seems ok thus far

 

Only anomaly is cruise control says “on” but I'm wondering if it needs speed sensor input or something to work correctly.

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dirtrider
Everything I can test with the tank off and bike half unplugged seems to be OK.

 

Gonna run through with the laptop Gs-911 not just phone. Run screen calibration (it seems to have self limited already)

 

See if I can do anything else before bolting all back together but seems ok thus far

 

Only anomaly is cruise control says “on” but I'm wondering if it needs speed sensor input or something to work correctly.

 

Afternoon Fugu

 

Good news on the new (used ZFE)

 

I'm on the road today so only have a couple of minutes here.

 

You might have to eventually re-calibrate the fuel strip but that will probably take removing it & drying it out. See how close it reads as it might be close enough to work OK (don't run it out of fuel until you know for sure).

 

On the cruise, it should work OK if everything else does but you might try this test--

 

-- With the ignition switch OFF, switch on the cruise control.

 

-- Press and hold the SET button to the SET position and switch on the Ignition switch (SET LIGHT should come on)

 

--Release the SET button (LIGHT should go OFF), move to RESET (Resume) position (LIGHT should be ON)

 

--Release the button (LIGHT should be OFF)

 

--Switch OFF the cruise control switch (LIGHT should be ON)

 

--Switch the cruise control switch back on (LIGHT should be OFF)

 

--Close throttle. (LIGHT should be ON), release throttle. (LIGHT should be OFF)

 

--Pull clutch lever (LIGHT should be ON), release clutch lever (LIGHT should be OFF)

 

--Pull front brake lever (LIGHT should be ON), release lever (LIGHT should be OFF)

 

--Push foot brake pedal (LIGHT should be ON), hold for 5 seconds (LIGHT should go OFF), release foot brake pedal (LIGHT should be ON)

 

--Rotate rear wheel (LIGHT SHOULD GO OFF/ON/OFF/ON)

 

 

-- Done, Switch off ignition.

 

 

 

 

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Fugu

Dirtrider no joking, I need to send you a bottle of good scotch or whatever would give you a big grin. I cannot tell you how much your assistance has been appreciated on this. Thank you.

 

The test you describe gave me the desired results with one exception - rear wheel rotation isn't giving me on off.

 

I am satisfied it is reading brake and control shut off inputs. When I get her buttoned up I will be extra cautious with the cruise while testing until I'm sure it's not Wonky. I've never had better than a throttle lock so if I traded an operable screen for cruise I'm OK with that.

 

I actually have an allegedly identical ZFE coming. The one in the bike was my 2nd choice. If the other arrives today I'm still just a tank removal away from swapping to that other one from another 05.

 

I have to leave the garage now but I'm excited to button my bike up tomorrow AM and go ride the blasted thing.

 

Two used ZFEs were cheap. I'll have a spare!

 

With this thing working I'm still ahead on this bike on dollars if I call my shop time “lessons learned”..

 

Have a great evening.

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