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57Pontiac

The Elusive 1150 engine noise

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57Pontiac

Hello all, I have a new to me, 2004 R1150R with 15,000 miles on the clock. I do not have much information regarding the first 14,000 miles, I think it sat a lot. Well, after doing all the basics, like changing/flushing all the fluids, tires, plugs, etc., I am chasing the engine noises like so many of us seem to be. I had the tick, tick, tick, so I followed with the advice found on this forum, and first upgraded the left cam chain tensioner, then adjusted the rocker arm end play, upgraded the pushrods, then re-adjusted the valves. I think I eliminated much of the noises, however, I am still experiencing a clicking noise low in the engine. Seems to be originating about where the right cam chain tensioner is. I have read the article regarding the need to only upgrade the left tensioner, but my question(s) are, has anyone had any luck with changing the right tensioner, and experiencing an elimination of that worrisome noise? Also, I have not been able to determine if the right cam chain tensioner would be the same as the left? MAX BMW seems to sell the right side tensioner as individual pieces, but it does not appear that there is an upgrade kit, as with the left side. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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RPG

The Right side tensioner mounts from the bottom, up towards the chain rail so it doesn't drain and should provide immediate tension on start-up.

 

Are you sure it isn't your clutch throw-out bearing? Its normal for those to exhibit some noise, (idling, clutch engaged, lever out).

 

Try pulling in the clutch to see if the noise goes away.

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dirtrider
Hello all, I have a new to me, 2004 R1150R with 15,000 miles on the clock. I do not have much information regarding the first 14,000 miles, I think it sat a lot. Well, after doing all the basics, like changing/flushing all the fluids, tires, plugs, etc., I am chasing the engine noises like so many of us seem to be. I had the tick, tick, tick, so I followed with the advice found on this forum, and first upgraded the left cam chain tensioner, then adjusted the rocker arm end play, upgraded the pushrods, then re-adjusted the valves. I think I eliminated much of the noises, however, I am still experiencing a clicking noise low in the engine. Seems to be originating about where the right cam chain tensioner is. I have read the article regarding the need to only upgrade the left tensioner, but my question(s) are, has anyone had any luck with changing the right tensioner, and experiencing an elimination of that worrisome noise? Also, I have not been able to determine if the right cam chain tensioner would be the same as the left? MAX BMW seems to sell the right side tensioner as individual pieces, but it does not appear that there is an upgrade kit, as with the left side. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Morning 57Pontiac

 

The L/H & the R/H tensioners are definitely different.

 

It is mounted from the bottom up as Rick mentioned BUT, the R/H side can go soft if the engine is shut down with the R/H valves putting tension on the chain & the tensioner is a bit worn as there is no real seal on the piston so it just slowly squeezes the oil up & out the top.

 

The R/H side usually doesn't outright clack at start up like the L/H side does as the R/H side is usually more of a running engine light rattle.

 

As the cam chains & chain guides wear the piston extends more & more so the internal spring has a lot less base tension.

 

I have shimmed the spring in those R/H tensioners with small washers & in some cases that has stopped or at least lowered the R/H cam chain disturbance.

 

You might also look CLOSELY at the cam chain guide rails as a broken off end (tip) can cause all sorts of chain rattle & chain slapping type noises.

 

Another thing to keep in mind (& VERY DIFFICULT TO ISOLATE ) is the front accessory shaft chain rattling (it also has a small hydraulic tensioner)-- A LOT of older 1100/ 1150 bikes have front chain rattle & not only is it difficult to isolate & find it is difficult to find the actual smoking gun & actually fix the darn thing. The good news is: unless excessive then the front chain rattle is not destructive, it is just annoying.

 

Also, remember that you are basically sitting on top of a mostly open, opposed, boxer engine without any sound deadening water jackets, so THEY MAKE NOISES. Most BMW boxer riders just tune out those normal noises & only the address the ones that get worse or change tone or frequency.

 

Open the hood on you car or truck then revv the engine (it's a LOT noisier than sitting in the acoustically deadened interior.

 

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57Pontiac

Dirtrider and RPG, Thank you for your time taken to respond and for your suggestions. Had not thought about the clutch throw out bearing, I will give that a look. I will also try to get a look at the cam chain guide rails as suggested. I think I will try to shim that right side tensioner a bit. I have found that the bike seems to run better when I have my earplugs in and helmet on! Thanks again.

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AndyS

So does your bike make more noise than other 1150R's? Have you done a comparison? It would be a shame to be chasing your tail, if this is a normal noise you are hearing!

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Lone_RT_rider
I have found that the bike seems to run better when I have my earplugs in and helmet on! Thanks again.

 

Welcome to the Love/Hate world of Oilhead Boxer engines. :)

 

We're glad to have you. :beer:

 

Shawn

 

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Ozonkiller

First, keep it simple.

 

Where are you? Quite often there is somebody close by who is willing to help and lend a second set of eyes or ears.

 

These engines are air cooled with a dry clutch, thus noisier than a water cooled engine.

 

These engines really respond to a really OCD valve adjustment and throttle body synch and I do mean OCD. Use two feeler gauges at the same time and go so far as to mimic the amount of drag on each gauge. Synch the TB's both at idle and about 4000 rpm. There's lots of youtube on this, I'm sure. Anyway, I have fixed a lot of engine noises this way.

 

Understand, it's hard to troubleshoot from my couch;) but, again, keep it simple first.

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AndyS

These engines are air cooled with a dry clutch, thus noisier than a water cooled engine.

 

Haha, A little anecdote. A couple of weeks back I had a guy come along to buy my beloved 130,000 mile R1150RT. Parked next to it was my 2017 (recently serviced) R1200RT.

As a comparison for him, we had both bikes running. My Oilhead was significantly quieter than my Wethead (which is NOT noisy).

 

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