Jump to content
Tracy B

1996 r1100rt issues

Recommended Posts

Tracy B

My 1996 is being a pain in the butt this week. 1) Developed a front master cylinder leak over winter, stock lines I believe, every time I pull the lever I notice brake fluid on the bottom of the assembly.

2) A stutter or sputter at idle and at mid range RPM. Caused it to stall today while leaving a stop sign. What would be the issue/fix?

3) Related to previous issue, as bike stalled while leaving stop sign, about 5 mph, fell over on right side, was turning right, and broke off rider foot peg. Where to get factory replacements? Looking for other options too.

4) low beam headlight works when it wants to, sometimes on when starting bike, sometimes not, other times it goes out while riding (have auxiliary lights installed). I'm hoping that it's just the low beam filament that's going. Usually a slap or two on the housing makes it work. High beam works as it should.

I guess my riding the bike days to work are over for a while, just when the weather is getting nice.

Edited by Tracy B

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
szurszewski

Beemer Boneyard for the foot peg. They also used to have rebuild kits for the master cylinder - not sure if hey do still or not. Probably a good idea to do new steel brake lines if yours are 22 year old rubber lines.

 

Common failure for the headlight is the switch gear - gets full of crud and sort of rewires itself by getting hot enough to melt bits internally. Of course slapping the light housing wouldn't change that, so maybe you're lucky and it's just the bulb.

 

Low idle stutter could be lots of things. When was your last service with valves and throttle adjustments? Could also be fuel - either crud from sitting or the internal fuel lines cracking or some such.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tracy B

I checked Beemer Boneyard -- OUT OF STOCK -- on foot peg

 

Thanks for info on headlight.

 

Not sure when or if previous owner did. I have had for 2 years, have not done it yet.

Not sure when plugs or valves were done either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
szurszewski

I would definitely start with new plugs, valve adjustment and throttle synch before chasing anything else - it's pretty easy to do all of that.

 

Sorry about the out of stock. Did you get on their list? eBay next unless you want to pay retail (I had to replace the left side on the same bike and I remember it seeming very pricey - but maybe not...)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Emfour

I just rebuilt the front master on my '96 R850R. Here's the kit, got it off eBay. It says clutch kit on the box, but the instructions (good quality) are for a brake master. https://www.ebay.com/itm/192504518231

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
szurszewski

That's a very comprehensive kit! I'm pretty sure the one I used was just the piston and o-rings...and was maybe as much money.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dave P

Tracy- I have a 96 R1100RT as well and just last weekend did new SS brake lines, new MC rebuild and brake system bleed. Took a while but not very difficult. I'd do all 3 if I were you, maybe add new pads too. Clean and lubricate the pins.

 

Foot peg- is it possible to patch it up while shopping for a replacement? Zip ties are amazing tools. You could also post a "Wanted to Buy" on Internet BMW Riders marketplace. No luck on eBay? they usually have just about everything. I've been known to inquire on out of town Craigslist postings (R1100RT parting out...) ask if they would ship. Often they will especially a small item thats easy to ship. And if they will ship it doesnt matter if they are 50 miles from you or 1500 miles.

 

New plugs, valve adjustment, Throttle body sync. yada yada yada... Dave

Edited by Dave P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tracy B

Thanks for the replies

 

I will definitely look into that mc rebuild kit and system bleed. Don't have the $$ for SS brake lines at the moment, but will be considered.

 

Haven't really looked for the peg yet, but will try Ebay and online.

 

Going to replace fuel filter and plugs and see if that improves things. Will definitely have to get help on throttle sync and valve adjustment as I am way to 'green' of a mechanic to feel comfortable tackling that myself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
szurszewski

If you're going to replace the fuel filter consider replacing the in-tank fuel hoses as well. Beemer boneyard has a kit with the necessary hose pieces and proper screw type clamps (as opposed to regular hose clamps which are not recommended or the OEM oetiker style clamps which a little less user friendly). It's not a lot of money ($13), and it would be a shame to have to go back into the tank later to replace them.

 

Edit to add: if you don't already have ibmwr tech manual for the oilheads, pm your email address and I will send you the PDF. (You can also google it.)

 

Maybe find someone nearby to help you with the valves and throttle sync - it's very doable.

 

 

Edited by szurszewski

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Jim Moore

Can you use one of the rear pegs?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dirtrider

Morning Tracy B

 

My 1996 is being a pain in the butt this week. 1) Developed a front master cylinder leak over winter, stock lines I believe, every time I pull the lever I notice brake fluid on the bottom of the assembly. --Overhaul kits are expensive, so if it were me, before ordering parts I would drain the front brake system then take the cylinder piston out & inspect the piston & cylinder bore for pitting. No use in buying overhaul parts if the cylinder is pitted or piston corroded. Brake fluid (Dot 3/4) it noted for taking in moisture then causing corrosion when a vehicle is stored.

 

2) A stutter or sputter at idle and at mid range RPM. Caused it to stall today while leaving a stop sign. What would be the issue/fix? MANY/MANY possibilities on this one & you didn't give us much background information to base any sort diagnosis on. If this happed after the bike was stored over winter then maybe start with getting the old gasoline out of the tank & new fresh gasoline in the tank with a good dose of Techron in the new gasoline. After storage you very possibly could be looking at bad gasoline or gummed up injectors.

 

It doesn't sound like a fuel pump or fuel filter as both of those effect top speed & power well before they effect a low speed stumble. If engine wont revv under power or you are way down on top speed power THEN possibly look into a fuel filter or internal tank line.

 

Even then, before tearing the tank apart, you need to find a smoking gun so you are addressing the correct area of failure. In this case that would be to run a fuel return flow test. If you are getting plenty of fuel flow out of the fuel RETURN line with engine idling then you don't have an in-tank failure like pump or plugged filter.

 

Related to previous issue, as bike stalled while leaving stop sign, about 5 mph, fell over on right side, was turning right, and broke off rider foot peg. Where to get factory replacements? Looking for other options too.--Usually, E-Bay is a good place on hard items like foot pegs.

 

low beam headlight works when it wants to, sometimes on when starting bike, sometimes not, other times it goes out while riding (have auxiliary lights installed). I'm hoping that it's just the low beam filament that's going. Usually a slap or two on the housing makes it work. High beam works as it should.

I guess my riding the bike days to work are over for a while, just when the weather is getting nice.

--Sounds like either a poor bulb connection, or cracked filament, or burnt terminal in the bulb connector (at least that would be the logical place to start the diagnostics)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
tallman

Sorry to hear of issues.

But, in all best possible intentions, you've had the bike for over 2 years and haven't done maintenance?

That might have something to do with it.

Park it until you have money, time, and interest to do the work.

Bike is on a 6,000 mile interval AND time passed for service.

Can't tell you how many bikes we saw problems that were the 1st beemer purchase and the new owner didn't do maintenance

then came in complaining about BMW quality.

Not saying that is you, just the outcome isw same regardless of attitude.

Oilheads need service, If you do it, they generally run fine with normal wear and tear items.

You have brake problems. That is a potentially lethal concern. REplace all components and service as required.

Replacing fuel filter (getting into tank) without replacing lines is a possible waste of time. If the lines are involved, you'll be back in there.

If they aren't now, they will be, soon.

There are known maintenance issues, like the HES.

Do these things, get to know the bike, have fun and ride.

Stalling at 5 mph and falling over can happen, or, we can do something to cause it.

If the bike "stalled" cut off, again a serious safety issue.

So, again in best possible intention, park it, fix it, then ride it.

Best wishes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lone_RT_rider
Can you use one of the rear pegs?

 

Yes Jim, you can. I broke off a front peg on my 1999 R1100RT and did just that to get me home that day.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tracy B

That's what I plan on doing.

 

Yes it is my 1st BMW, and i did not buy new. When I bought it in late September of 2016, maybe rode it 3-4 times before I stored it, the fuel level was to the point of the low fuel light on. Same with storing over last winter. After winter storage, the 1st thing I do is fill up with fresh fuel. I have been using the mid grade gasoline (89 octane). The fuels here in southern Wisconsin are mixed with 10% ethanol, if that makes a difference. There are a few stations around that have the 'premium' with NO ethanol.

 

The previous owner 'claimed' to have had done all required maintenance at the time of purchase, so I put off any maintenance besides oil change in 2017.

 

Since joining this forum, I have learned that routine maintenance is required and needs to be done as close to the intervals as possible. This site has been extremely helpful in this area.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Selden

@Tracy B : Just to keep things simple for my memory, I do minor services (engine oil & filter change, brake fluid flush & change) at 5,000 mile intervals; major (all the 5000 mile tasks, plus transmission and FD oil change, air filter change, check valve clearances, TB sync) at 10,000 mile intervals. After the engine is thoroughly run in, valve clearances should rarely need adjustment, but they are not hard to check. The nice thing about the R1100 series is that they are somewhat tractor-like, and easy to work on.

 

Here is a good maintenance guide: http://www.ketchum.org/BMWmc/R1100.pdf

 

When storing a bike, either drain the tank completely and run it dry, or keep the tank completely full with a double dose of stabilizer, such as Sta-Bil.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
szurszewski

For future reference you're better off storing the tank full (with a stabilizer added if it will be more than a few weeks). The more air you have in the tank the more moisture can condense - especially if you are somewhere humid.

 

You might want to add something to the fuel that will help to get any accumulated water out of there.

 

 

My RT ran slightly better on premium but it was really only noticeable under heavy throttle (like opening it all the way going up a good hill, etc).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dirtrider
That's what I plan on doing.

 

Yes it is my 1st BMW, and i did not buy new. When I bought it in late September of 2016, maybe rode it 3-4 times before I stored it, the fuel level was to the point of the low fuel light on. Same with storing over last winter. After winter storage, the 1st thing I do is fill up with fresh fuel. I have been using the mid grade gasoline (89 octane). The fuels here in southern Wisconsin are mixed with 10% ethanol, if that makes a difference. There are a few stations around that have the 'premium' with NO ethanol.

 

The previous owner 'claimed' to have had done all required maintenance at the time of purchase, so I put off any maintenance besides oil change in 2017.

 

Since joining this forum, I have learned that routine maintenance is required and needs to be done as close to the intervals as possible. This site has been extremely helpful in this area.

 

 

Evening Tracy B

 

Yes, 10% ethanol fuel can make a difference (in a bad way). The alcohol in the fuel mixes with moisture & REALLY MAKES A MESS, especially on metal parts & fuel injectors.

 

If your evap canister (black can on rear of bike) is still on the bike & hooked up then it usually isn't to bad as the charcoal in the evap can prevents most moisture entering the tank.

 

If that evap can was removed (a lot were) then moisture getting in the tank from constant warming & cooling (expansion/contraction) during storage is a major possibility.

 

Get some Techron (or better yet Techron concentrate plus) into that tank then put some miles on that bike. Hopefully that will clean out your injectors & clear up your running issues.

 

Being in Wisconsin you should have lots of marinas & lake area gas stations so next year fill your motorcycle tank at last fill-up of the year with alcohol free gasoline. Same for your weed whackers & lawnmower. Alcohol free gasoline REALLY REALLY helps during winter storage & goes a l-o-n-g way towards preventing storage fuel related issues.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lone_RT_rider
Alcohol free gasoline REALLY REALLY helps during winter storage & goes a l-o-n-g way towards preventing storage fuel related issues.

 

And even with Marine grade gas, I still use a Marine stabilizer that helps with water separation from anything that might still be mixed into the tanks of the gas station.

 

And a hello from your southern neighbor down here in Germantown! :)

 

Edited by Lone_RT_rider

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Jake
Alcohol free gasoline REALLY REALLY helps during winter storage & goes a l-o-n-g way towards preventing storage fuel related issues.

 

 

 

A huge +1 here. We rent our lakehouse from January to March each year. Thus, everything that burns gas up there is in storage each year for about 4 months (It takes us 2 weeks to pack, then 2 weeks to unpack our stuff). So, that's 2 cars, 2 motorcycles, 2 jet skis, a ski boat, a pontoon boat, a chain saw, a leaf blower, and a pressure washer. Everything but the cars and the motos always run on ethanol free, and I fill (and run) the motos and cars with a tankful of the e-free fuel at the end of every season. It's been 6 season's worth of renting/storage and I never have any fuel issues. Everything starts right up and goes like stink.

 

No Sea Foam nor Sta-bil on my garage shelves. I don't know if that stuff is snake oil, but I will also never have to find out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
AviP

I don't think I can find ethanol free gas anymore in Fairfield county, CT.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
eddd
I don't think I can find ethanol free gas anymore in Fairfield county, CT.

 

I believe this is the fuel Whip uses when storing bike over the Colorado Winter. Pricey, but if you run the tank down before you park the bike it should be too bad.

 

VPfuel

 

Bike dealer will carry this for the off-road racers/riders with high performance engines.

 

 

Edited by eddd

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
tallman

Ok, store with gas tank full, or empty? I was always of the full perusasion?

 

Sea Foam helps.

Stabilizers work.

Can't be too careful

;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lowndes

+1 on the complete (clutch, front & rear brakes) flexible hydraulic lines replacement. I paid about $210 for a very complete set from Spiegler about two years ago when my front wheel locked up. You are WAAAY past due, These are a well-known problem after 15 years

 

+1 on the internal tank rubber fuel tubing along with the filter. Also a very long overdue item. You'll see cracks/splits when you do the fuel filter. Don't use just any fuel tubing, either or you'll re-do and pay twice.

 

Another member had his footpeg welded (alu) back together. Definitely cheaper.

 

If your HES is original, you are overdue for it, too. Another well known R1100 issue with bad wires.

 

All the above are definitely doable at home. I did it on my '99 R11S and R11RT with much excellent info and help from this forum.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tracy B

Thank you for all the replies and tips. They will definitely help.

 

I appreciate everyone taking the time to help a fellow rider out.

 

I haven't gotten a chance to take anything apart and fix yet, a lot of other things going on right now

 

Bike will stay parked until the issues are resolved.

 

Will definitely be doing the SS brake lines and spark plugs.

 

I also will reread the comments on here as I go along and use the ones that help the most.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tracy B

How do I upload a video, about 101mb (55 seconds)?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
AnotherLee

Hi, Tracy -

Go to tinypic.com and upload it. They will give you a forum link that you can post here. Simple, no?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tracy B

View My Video

 

Let me know if this works

Edited by Tracy B

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
AnotherLee

Tracy -

I followed your link and got the following messsage from Tinypic: "This video requires Flash 9 or newer. Click here to get it! ". As soon as I did that, the video played. Worked on both Chrome and Edge.

Nice job.

What the flashing lights mean will need forum people more familiar with the 1100RT than I am if that's what you wanted to show in the video.

Edited by TheOtherLee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
szurszewski

What the flashing lights mean will need forum people more familiar with the 1100RT than I am if that's what you wanted to show in the video.

 

That's what they are supposed to do - flash in unison - until the self-test is completed, and that doesn't happen until you start rolling.

 

http://www.largiader.com/abs/absfault.html

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tracy B

I know about the flashing lights. I was trying to get opinions on the sputtering engine and was trying to get the tachometer dipping as it started to sputter and the engine temperature.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tracy B

Replaced spark plugs and tried syncing the throttle bodies. No matter what, one side read higher than the other. Couldn't get them to read anywhere close. Had both sides all the way down to end of threads and all the way loose, nothing.

Followed the instructions in the repair manual.

Help please! What am I doing wrong?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dirtrider
Replaced spark plugs and tried syncing the throttle bodies. No matter what, one side read higher than the other. Couldn't get them to read anywhere close. Had both sides all the way down to end of threads and all the way loose, nothing.

Followed the instructions in the repair manual.

Help please! What am I doing wrong?

 

Evening Tracy

 

What (exactly) did you have down to end of threads (the BBS screws or the cable adjusters?)

 

Are you having a problem syncing the idle (closed throttle) or above idle (part throttle?) or both?

 

If having an issue then first thing to do is remove the BBS air screws & clean the screw tips & the little passages down in the screw holes (use catalytic converter safe carb cleaner). You can't sync the curb idle with plugged passages or dirty BBS screw tips.

 

You also, absolutely, need to back the throttle cables off enough so both side throttle plate cams are resting tightly on the idle stop screws (a tight cable will make closed throttle plate syncing almost impossible)

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tracy B

The cable adjuster lock nuts were all the way down on the threads. How do you get the cable adjusters to turn when lock nuts are loose? (In or out, couldn't get them to turn any direction)

 

Didn't remove the idle screws to clean them or the passageways, will try that tomorrow.

 

Syncing at idle and at part throttle.

 

It was suggested that I may have a vacuum leak as well. I will look into that tomorrow before I start trying to sync again.

 

The repair manual says to sync via the joining cable, that is the rear cable (when sitting next to bike on left side), is that correct?

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dirtrider

Evening Tracy B

 

The cable adjuster lock nuts were all the way down on the threads. How do you get the cable adjusters to turn when lock nuts are loose? (In or out, couldn't get them to turn any direction)-- Try some penetrating oil then use a small pair of pliers on the adjusters.

 

Didn't remove the idle screws to clean them or the passageways, will try that tomorrow. --Yes, those must be clean to get a decent idle balance.

 

Syncing at idle and at part throttle.--Good

 

It was suggested that I may have a vacuum leak as well. I will look into that tomorrow before I start trying to sync again.--On the BMW 1100/1150 boxers a vacuum leak usually gives a high idle speed so if it is idling at or near correct RPM's then no vacuum leak (or not enough to effect much anyhow). If the bike has a lot of miles on it then you will probably find a little vacuum leakage at the throttle shafts due to worn shafts & bushings. .

 

The repair manual says to sync via the joining cable, that is the rear cable (when sitting next to bike on left side), is that correct?--Depends!-- does your bike still have the original single cable system (no Bowden box?). If so then adjust using the crossover cable.

 

On the single cable (crossover cable systems) it is sometimes, or almost, impossible to get the curb idle balance, off-idle balance, & throttle plates to lift off idle stop screws at the EXACT same time. You want the off-idle (above idle) & throttle plate lifting off the stop screws at the same time to take precedence over idle balance as idle balance really isn't that important & you don't ride the bike at idle.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tracy B

My 1996 has 3 cables on the left side TB, from what i've read, it's the choke cable (inside front), main throttle cable (outside front), and joining/crossover cable (rear).

 

Thanks for the tip on the adjusters.

 

Things to work on tomorrow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dirtrider
My 1996 has 3 cables on the left side TB, from what i've read, it's the choke cable (inside front), main throttle cable (outside front), and joining/crossover cable (rear).

 

Thanks for the tip on the adjusters.

 

Things to work on tomorrow.

 

Evening Tracy B

 

When it comes to the early 1100 single cable system (crossover cable system) you just about have to throw the book away as the book assumes the reader has done many before & is only using the book to look good to a customer.

 

On the single cable system NEVER adjust the cables or adjust the above idle balance after using the choke to start the engine as the choke cable pulls the main cable in the wrong direction on the L/H side cam so the cable works around the cam slightly. If adjusted after starting with the choke it will look & act balanced but will be off after the first ride as the main cable works it's way back to proper location. (if using the choke just before or during a TB balance always work the twist grip through full travel a few times before doing any cable adjusting).

 

The single cable system is not a tough nut to crack but sure is difficult for most first timers. Due to the single cable design one cable adjuster can effect the other cable runs & upset the entire process.

 

The cross side balance also changes as the lower (crossover cable heats up & expands from engine heat).

 

Persistence & patience are the key words when it comes to single cable systems.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tracy B

Went to sync the throttle bodies and found that the left side injector fits loosely in the socket (able to move it around easily) while the right side fits snug and tight.

 

I followed the instructions in the manual to remove the injectors, thinking maybe it had come unseated somehow and just needed to be pushed back into the cylinder and tightened up. This was not the case, still loose fitting and also I must have messed up an o- ring because when I gave it a tiny bit of throttle, fuel leaked out of the line and the engine stalled and died.

 

Do I need a new injector?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dirtrider
Went to sync the throttle bodies and found that the left side injector fits loosely in the socket (able to move it around easily) while the right side fits snug and tight.

 

I followed the instructions in the manual to remove the injectors, thinking maybe it had come unseated somehow and just needed to be pushed back into the cylinder and tightened up. This was not the case, still loose fitting and also I must have messed up an o- ring because when I gave it a tiny bit of throttle, fuel leaked out of the line and the engine stalled and died.

 

Do I need a new injector?

 

Evening Tracy

 

No way to know if you need a new injector until you tell us EXACTLY where it is leaking from (not just general area but exact spot). Or post a good clear picture of the leak.

 

Could be a leaking injector, or a leaking line, or a leaking connection, or a leaking????

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tracy B

Here is a short video:

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tracy B

After the last video I posted, some people, on here and the BMW Facebook pages, had suggested that I could have a vacuum leak.

Would a bad injector o-ring cause a similar issue?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dirtrider
After the last video I posted, some people, on here and the BMW Facebook pages, had suggested that I could have a vacuum leak.

Would a bad injector o-ring cause a similar issue?

 

Evening Tracy

 

 

A vacuum leak will usually cause a high idle speed--Is your idle speed high?

 

As far as that loose injector goes, it I difficult to tell much with the camera jumping around from place to place & not staying on the problem for long enough to tell much.

 

It does look like the clip (metal plate) that holds the injector in is bent up a little too much so maybe remove it & re-bend it to hold the injector in tighter.

 

Also, look closely at your injector to see that the area that the red arrow (in the picture) is pointing at is not degraded or broken/missing, etc.

 

9YkoUyF.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tracy B
After the last video I posted, some people, on here and the BMW Facebook pages, had suggested that I could have a vacuum leak.

Would a bad injector o-ring cause a similar issue?

 

Evening Tracy

 

 

A vacuum leak will usually cause a high idle speed--Is your idle speed high?

 

As far as that loose injector goes, it I difficult to tell much with the camera jumping around from place to place & not staying on the problem for long enough to tell much.

 

It does look like the clip (metal plate) that holds the injector in is bent up a little too much so maybe remove it & re-bend it to hold the injector in tighter.

 

Also, look closely at your injector to see that the area that the red arrow (in the picture) is pointing at is not degraded or broken/missing, etc.

 

9YkoUyF.jpg

 

If the piece that the arrow is pointing to is missing or degraded, can it be purchased separately from the injector or do I need to replace the entire injector?

 

I can snap a picture or two of the injector if that helps.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Pierre-Andre

It seems that you are simply missing the circlip that keeps the big O-ring from moving around. This O-ring should sit against the lip that is just under the one pointed on the image and the circlip should be under the O-ring . Any automotive store should have an appropriate circlip for you. Since there is no groove for the circlip, the pressure has to be strong enough to keep it from moving as well.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×