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TEDZ

K1200LT Cruise Ctl After Clutch Job

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TEDZ

I replaced the clutch on a 1999 K1200LT and am chasing two issues.

1) The cruise control won't engage. The indicator light works when the slide lever is slid to the right. The brake lights work O.K., and the ABS syncs up normally. The fuse is good and is getting power. The cable from the controller to the throttle body wheel is secure and doesn't seem to be bound up. How do I check the clutch lever switch?

2) The battery drains down over a couple of days. It's a 2 year old PC680 which held up well before the clutch job.

 

I labelled the electrical connectors during the teardown to ensure the would go back on correctly.

 

Any suggestions for my two problems? The new clutch does pull strong and it shifts smoothly.

 

Thanks, Ted

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szurszewski

Hi Ted -

I was sent pdf of the diagnostics for the cruise system by a friend last year (wasn't having trouble, but was replacing the throttle cables and he wisely suggested I run all the diagnostics BEFORE putting the plastics back on). I can't find my file, but it is very similar to the one linked here

 

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/61833-cruise-control-diagnostic-test.html

 

which the author also, I just discovered, posted here as well, but without the pdf:

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=697848&page=all

 

I didn't have any trouble when I replaced the cables, but later that year when I had a shop (Max BMW) replace the clutch I did get the bike back with the cruise (among other things) not working - they had misrouted the cables just a little and that, in conjunction with a twist grip in need of cleaning, was enough to make the CC non-op.

 

I suggest running through the diagnostics first, but I'm guessing you may need to pull some plastics and make sure the cables are all in the proper places.

 

 

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Tri750

Check the rear brake pedal as well.

A very common problem wth the K12LT is after a tip-over the brake pedal gets bent up a bit and won't allow the cruise to come on because your foot is applying a hair of rear brake.

Use a crescent wrench tightened on the flat of the pedal and ease down on it until the pedal is horizontal.

You get about 3-4 of these over time then the pedal breaks off.

It's the quickest thing to try.

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TEDZ

Thanks for the info. I did need to reseat the cable which closes the throttle. Fortunately, I did the test ride without the plastic on. Time to pull the fuel tank.

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szurszewski

I'd check all the routing and run the diagnostic steps first (maybe you already have), and I'd also check the free play adjustments where the cables go into the twist grip. Do you still have the original throttle cables or have yours been upgraded? (Upgraded go through a hole in the lower handlebar cover and - I think - the originals do not.)

 

 

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TEDZ

I think they are the original cables. The diagnostic went O.K. until the clutch lever/brake pedal check, that gives me a place to start. Working too many hours in my retirement, so it may be a few days to tear into it deeper.

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TEDZ

Finally got around to working on it again. Bad brake pedal switch. Just what the diagnostic pointed to per szurszewski's post. Thanks.

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szurszewski

Glad to hear it!

 

I recently switched from our k12lt sidecar rig to a Ducati st2 as my regular ride. It's hard to even compare the two, but I can say I absolutely miss the cruise control!

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