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NorCal Rider

not the fuel strip

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NorCal Rider

Hi everyone...

 

Had my new (to me) 1200 RT in the shop over the last couple days - doing the 48k service - feel good about the bike being in tip-top shape!! Will do my own service from now on tho....Dang! That was expensive!!

 

Anyway - my fuel gauge is not working. PO had problem looked at - had new fuel strip installed - still no good. The guys at Ozzie's BMW here in Chico tell me that what I actually need replaced is the 'flange' to the fuel pump. Fuel pump itself is fine, so I'm just resetting the trip meter with each fill up. Meantime, Ozzie's said they'll be on the lookout for a used fuel pump that can be cannibal-ized.

 

Have any of you encountered this specific issue? Seems like almost everyone has had the fuel strip issue - how about the flange?

 

Thanks,

Kim

 

 

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TEWKS

Still sounds like you need a fuel strip. IIRC there were reports of bad fuel strips being used in the recall. Probably not on purpose.

 

If what they are telling you is true then the Flange Recall should be brought up in that case.

 

Pat

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dirtrider
Hi everyone...

 

Had my new (to me) 1200 RT in the shop over the last couple days - doing the 48k service - feel good about the bike being in tip-top shape!! Will do my own service from now on tho....Dang! That was expensive!!

 

Anyway - my fuel gauge is not working. PO had problem looked at - had new fuel strip installed - still no good. The guys at Ozzie's BMW here in Chico tell me that what I actually need replaced is the 'flange' to the fuel pump. Fuel pump itself is fine, so I'm just resetting the trip meter with each fill up. Meantime, Ozzie's said they'll be on the lookout for a used fuel pump that can be cannibal-ized.

 

Have any of you encountered this specific issue? Seems like almost everyone has had the fuel strip issue - how about the flange?

 

Thanks,

Kim

 

 

Morning Kim

 

What year 1200RT do you have?

 

We need WAY more information to know what you are dealing with. Flanges usually leak, they don't usually cause the fuel gauge to quit working.

 

EXACTLY what is wrong with your flange?

 

Even new fuel strips fail & some new ones even fail to work at all.

 

If your fuel pump flange is leaking or cracked there was a BMW recall on those.

 

To answer your basic question. I have seen a large number of 1200RT fuel gauges stop working correctly & none were do to any type of flange failure.

 

 

 

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NorCal Rider

HI D-Rider.. mine is a 2005 RT.... so here's the word from Ozzie's - the strip was replaced - still no working fuel gauge - the flange was replaced too - still no good...all of the above was done via recalls -- I mentioned to them that I had read here on the forum that often brand new strips were faulty - they said they took a reading and the strip was working fine. They say the problem is the connector on the flange itself... I have seen the bar-b-que zapper fix on youtube - I wonder if that might bring the system back to life...? Seems to me that fix was more to activate the strip itself. So in the meantime, they are on the lookout for a wrecked bike with a good fuel pump assembly - we could then install that flange onto my bike - would be way cheaper than a whole new fuel pump... meantime - trip meter reset with every fill up - no huge big deal for me.

 

Thx

KIM

Edited by NorCal Rider

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dirtrider
HI D-Rider.. mine is a 2005 RT.... so here's the word from Ozzie's - the strip was replaced - still no working fuel gauge - the flange was replaced too - still no good...all of the above was done via recalls -- I mentioned to them that I had read here on the forum that often brand new strips were faulty - they said they took a reading and the strip was working fine. They say the problem is the connector on the flange itself... I have seen the bar-b-que zapper fix on youtube - I wonder if that might bring the system back to life...? Seems to me that fix was more to activate the strip itself. So in the meantime, they are on the lookout for a wrecked bike with a good fuel pump assembly - we could then install that flange onto my bike - would be way cheaper than a whole new fuel pump... meantime - trip meter reset with every fill up - no huge big deal for me.

 

Just watched this vid.... maybe it's as easy to fix as this shows

 

Thx

KIM

 

Morning Kim

 

No need to zap it as the strip was replaced so SHOULD WORK & if not you are due a new replacement.

 

I'm not sure what READING they took (those things are difficult to measure) so you either need to trust them or find another dealer to work with.

 

Any idea on "what is wrong with connector on the flange". (did they damage that connector when installing the new fuel strip?)

 

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NorCal Rider

I do totally trust the guys at Ozzie's. Their reputation is second to none on the west coast... they will literally go the extra mile (as in come to your house if you need a part) to provide great service. Small, family run.

 

D-Rider....that video I posted does not show what I thought - it shows a replacement for the controller - not the issue here - so I took that video down. In watching it tho, and also this one:

 

 

I see the zapper fix does not appear to be all that tricky - and if the connector is corroded or in some other way not able to conduct an electrical current, maybe the zapper will help.... i might try it in any case...

 

Thanks,

K

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dirtrider

Morning Kim

 

Personally I wouldn't want to purposely ZAP a brand new fuel strip.

 

In any case even if zapping would make it work I have yet to see or hear of the zapping lasting very long.

 

If you try it let us know how it works out?

 

 

 

 

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NorCal Rider

Sure.... would be an excuse to dig into the bike for the first time... then again.... maybe i'll leave well enough alone for the time being... :thumbsup:

 

thanks!

 

K

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Indy Dave
Morning Kim

 

EXACTLY what is wrong with your flange?

 

Even new fuel strips fail & some new ones even fail to work at all.

 

If your fuel pump flange is leaking or cracked there was a BMW recall on those.

 

To answer your basic question. I have seen a large number of 1200RT fuel gauges stop working correctly & none were do to any type of flange failure.

 

No need to zap it as the strip was replaced so SHOULD WORK & if not you are due a new replacement.

 

I'm not sure what READING they took (those things are difficult to measure) so you either need to trust them or find another dealer to work with.

 

Any idea on "what is wrong with connector on the flange". (did they damage that connector when installing the new fuel strip?)

 

Personally I wouldn't want to purposely ZAP a brand new fuel strip.

 

In any case even if zapping would make it work I have yet to see or hear of the zapping lasting very long.

 

If you try it let us know how it works out?

 

Hi Kim - DT has asked some investigative questions here that have gone unanswered. Certainly, it's your bike and only you can decide what you want to pursue and none of us are there. From Frigid Indiana, it looks like you're grasping for low hanging fruit - which even if it works, it will only be for brief time. If the strip comes to life after Zapping it and then it dies again, then what, pray tell will you do then?

 

I encourage you to have the uncomfortable conversation with the mechanic or service advisor to drill down and answer DR's questions as I think you're going to have to do this one way or another (if the zapping does [temporarily] or doesn't work. While we all make mistakes, Dirtrider isn't a shade tree mechanic.

 

Or take a nice ride to another dealership for the strip recall or second opinion.

 

Best of luck!

 

Dave

 

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NorCal Rider

Hi guys.... hey, I appreciate your time in responding to my posting here.... heading back to Ozzie's later this week to continue the dialog with them. I will let you know how it goes.

 

Thanks,

K

 

 

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NorCal Rider

OK.... so here's the deal on the fuel gauge issue with my bike - from the actual mechanic who worked on it... he says he installed a new fuel strip - gauge still not reading on the dash. Then he uninstalled the strip and tested it - it showed that the strip was alive, conducting current properly. He tested the 4-pin plug - it's good. It's the connector itself that is faulty. And while I did not ask the question, I assume the connector itself cannot be replaced - so the entire flange has to be replaced. The flange, apparently, cannot be purchased separate from the fuel pump, which in my case is working fine. So that is why he and the rest of the crew at Ozzie's are on the lookout for a used fuel pump assembly to cannibalize for my problem.

 

Meantime - life is sweet and the almond trees are blooming - riding in NorCal this time of year is really nice! (Although we've had a super dry winter - I worry about fires again this summer).

 

thanks,

K

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w2ge

So... I'd try to fix the connector, unless it's a molded plastic sealed piece... most connectors are somewhat fixable. Electrical contact cleaner, bending the pins (female side) tighter, checking the wire to pin connection, resolder if necessary, etc.

 

all ez Peazy (usually! :)

 

 

 

V.O.Meter IS YOUR FRIEND.

Edited by w2ge

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dirtrider
OK.... so here's the deal on the fuel gauge issue with my bike - from the actual mechanic who worked on it... he says he installed a new fuel strip - gauge still not reading on the dash. Then he uninstalled the strip and tested it - it showed that the strip was alive, conducting current properly. He tested the 4-pin plug - it's good. It's the connector itself that is faulty. And while I did not ask the question, I assume the connector itself cannot be replaced - so the entire flange has to be replaced. The flange, apparently, cannot be purchased separate from the fuel pump, which in my case is working fine. So that is why he and the rest of the crew at Ozzie's are on the lookout for a used fuel pump assembly to cannibalize for my problem.

 

Meantime - life is sweet and the almond trees are blooming - riding in NorCal this time of year is really nice! (Although we've had a super dry winter - I worry about fires again this summer).

 

thanks,

K

 

Afternoon NorCal Rider

 

I still have some doubts on your mechanic's info (at least as it is written above). Disconnecting the fuel strip & testing it is about impossible as it isn't a simple resistance type device (unless he installed it in another working motorcycle to test). I guess I have no idea on HOW he tested it, or could have tested it, unless he installed in in another bike??????

 

I also have a little trouble believing that the connector on the FLANGE is the problem as that is molded into the flange (pass through) with the metal pins going straight through (unless he snapped a pin off when replacing the fuel strip I don't see how it could have failed inside the pass through itself. Possibly a pin corrosion problem but that should be repairable. A broken pin not so repairable.

 

A connector problem on the harness side or on the fuel strip side has nothing to do with the flange (pump pass through) so if one or the other of these failed it shouldn't need a new flange.

 

I'm still missing something on understanding this issue?

 

Zpv5Ev0.jpg

 

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NorCal Rider

Thanks for that DT! I will get in there and play with the pins a little... I took off the side panel the other day just to look at all this stuff we've been talking about... Maybe I can bring it back to life. As far as how he tested the strip - I don't know - I figured a multi-meter was used, but I guess that's not the case from what you mentioned. In any case, I did ask him why he didn't just replace the strip again, and he told me for certain that it had been tested and was good.

 

In your picture with arrows I don't see the actual pins/connector - you say that it is molded into the plastic flange.... can it be removed and repaired if there's not a broken pin?

 

Thanks! I really appreciate your input.

 

 

 

 

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dirtrider
Thanks for that DT! I will get in there and play with the pins a little... I took off the side panel the other day just to look at all this stuff we've been talking about... Maybe I can bring it back to life. As far as how he tested the strip - I don't know - I figured a multi-meter was used, but I guess that's not the case from what you mentioned. In any case, I did ask him why he didn't just replace the strip again, and he told me for certain that it had been tested and was good.

 

In your picture with arrows I don't see the actual pins/connector - you say that it is molded into the plastic flange.... can it be removed and repaired if there's not a broken pin?

 

Thanks! I really appreciate your input.

 

 

 

 

Afternoon NorCal Rider

 

The pins are down in that molded in connector shown (you just can't see them in the picture). The mating pins are on the motorcycle harness connector that plugs into the top & on the fuel strip connector that plugs into the bottom.

 

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NorCal Rider

DR... again, thanks. I assume then that the connector cannot be removed. When I get home today I will take a look at the pins visible from the top of the flange. Maybe they are corroded/funky and need a little squirt of contact cleaner to wake them up. Not too optimistic, but we shall see.

 

Thanks again.

Kim

 

 

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Tri750

Kim, Ozzie's is one of the better dealerships in Calif.

Unless something drastic has changed since Ozzie's passing a few years ago, i can't imagine them not catching a dirty connector.

me? i would check ebay and see just how much or how little a used fuel pump could be . you can check realism.com to see about interchangeability.

see if the seller accepts returns in case it's not any good either .

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NorCal Rider

Yes, I do totally trust these guys - It's small, family fun. Ozzie's grandson runs the place now - Ozzie's wife is still a presence on site! They've been super-accommodating to me in answering my questions, and have invited me anytime to hang in the shop and watch various procedures, i.e. valve adjustments etc... I examined and played a little with the connector pins this aft - they look pretty good to me - clean and shiny -

 

Will check ebay - thanks!

K

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Tri750

Before you buy, call the tech back and give him the "what if" thing. Just to clarify, if you buy a used pump off ebay, then they will swap parts and things will be ok.

I'm still a bit fuzzy on this deal but I don't know if it's losing something from him to you to us or what.

 

 

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NorCal Rider

lost in translation? yes, i'm sure that has happened.... doing my best to be accurate and thorough in getting info to you guys... again - i appreciate everyone who has tried to help with this.

 

 

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AnotherLee

Tri750 said: you can check realism.com to see about interchangeability.

 

I think he meant realoem.com. Autocomplete strikes again.

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dirtrider
DR... again, thanks. I assume then that the connector cannot be removed. When I get home today I will take a look at the pins visible from the top of the flange. Maybe they are corroded/funky and need a little squirt of contact cleaner to wake them up. Not too optimistic, but we shall see.

 

Thanks again.

Kim

 

 

Morning Kim

 

SOMETHING just doesn't seem to compute on this. Unless the flange (pump pass through) connector plastic is damaged (& that would probably have to been done by the tec removing the fuel strip), or the pins are so corroded that they can't be cleaned then I just can't understand how you could need a new flange.

 

New or used flange is expensive so you need to verify that you really do have a flange problem before spending the money.

 

Can you get the tec to explain to you EXACTLY what is wrong with your current flange?

 

such as---

 

Is the plastic broken where a mating connector plugs in? (if so then who broke it doing what?)

 

or

 

The flange has 4 pins passing through it so which of those 4 pins is not conducting ( if he blames the flange then he MUST HAVE measured the resistance across all 4 pins, correct?)

 

or

 

Exactly what does he say is wrong with the flange (he must know if he said it is bad, he surly wouldn't just guess at it would he?)

 

Something tells me there is way more to this story than is getting relayed to you from the dealer.

 

 

 

 

 

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NorCal Rider

I hear you DR.... after taking a close look at the connector yesterday, it's hard to believe that it is the problem - the pins on top were not corroded at all - I am not much of an electrician, but I do have a multimeter - can you tell me how (if possible while on the bike) to test the pins on the connector and the wiring harness that plugs into it? - not sure what setting to use on the multi-meter -. Next time I talk to my tech guy I'd like to tell him that I personally tested some components and here's what I found...

 

As I've said, I have gotten a strong sense from the Ozzie's guys that if they thought it was the fuel strip, they'd simply replace it - they believe it's the connector on the flange - I am not sure how long ago they did the work on the bike - was definitely way before I bought it two weeks ago. (Next time I go in I'll ask to see the maint. records). And I'm not sure if they are 100% confidant of what they are saying to me vs. being super busy and not really spending the time to sort this out for me. Like someone said above, everyone makes mistakes - maybe they made one here in their diagnosis. At the same time, I don't believe they are trying to get me to spend big bucks - as far as they know I might install whatever part is necessary myself - in looking for used parts they are trying save me money and would even instruct me in procedure for the repair. So it just might be, that even tho they are being super accommodating etc etc, they are giving me bad info based on their belief that something is broken that is actually working fine.

 

Maybe I can get them to just simply put in a new fuel strip.

 

Anyway... if you can help me out with the multimeter, that would be great!

 

Thanks again (and again and again)

KIM

 

Edited by NorCal Rider

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dirtrider
I hear you DR.... after taking a close look at the connector yesterday, it's hard to believe that it is the problem - the pins on top were not corroded at all - I am not much of an electrician, but I do have a multimeter - can you tell me how (if possible while on the bike) to test the pins on the connector and the wiring harness that plugs into it? - not sure what setting to use on the multi-meter -. Next time I talk to my tech guy I'd like to tell him that I personally tested some components and here's what I found...

 

As I've said, I have gotten a strong sense from the Ozzie's guys that if they thought it was the fuel strip, they'd simply replace it - they believe it's the connector on the flange - I am not sure how long ago they did the work on the bike - was definitely way before I bought it two weeks ago. (Next time I go in I'll ask to see the maint. records). And I'm not sure if they are 100% confidant of what they are saying to me vs. being super busy and not really spending the time to sort this out for me. Like someone said above, everyone makes mistakes - maybe they made one here in their diagnosis. At the same time, I don't believe they are trying to get me to spend big bucks - as far as they know I might install whatever part is necessary myself - in looking for used parts they are trying save me money and would even instruct me in procedure for the repair. So it just might be, that even tho they are being super accommodating etc etc, they are giving me bad info based on their belief that something is broken that is actually working fine.

 

Maybe I can get them to just simply put in a new fuel strip.

 

Anyway... if you can help me out with the multimeter, that would be great!

 

Thanks again (and again and again)

KIM

 

Morning Kim

 

About the only way to test the pins on the flange (fuel pump pass through) is to remove the flange from the fuel tank so you can access the pins on the top & bottom at the same time so you can ohm them out one at a time for continuity.

 

As far as testing the harness or fuel strip connector terminals, that is somewhat difficult as you need to access bare wire or another connection upstream then ohm the actual crimp continuity.

 

You can check the motorcycle side of the harness for push fit integrity (IF) you have a proper size male pin (you probably don't have this) by doing a push/pull test to see how much drag the terminal to terminal push fit has.

 

 

 

 

 

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NorCal Rider

So here's the latest on the fuel gauge saga…. I spoke with Ozzie's about simply replacing the fuel strip – they told me no, at least not under warranty, because the official BMW data base now shows (rightly or wrongly) that it's the flange that's the issue, not the fuel strip. They had done a diagnostic etc etc etc….Blah Blah Blah….anyway, new info: Last weekend I parked the bike in my garage with a full tank of gas. Next morning my garage stunk to high heaven of gas. Ah ha! I sniffed around and it really seemed like the smell was coming from the left side of the bike, then I noticed a 2 inch diameter damp spot on the floor below the bike – definitely leaking gas!!!! I took off the side panel and voila! - the flange was wet all around. This had not happened before because I had never parked the bike with a full tank in my garage. Now the gas was right up to the top of the inside of the tank and it founds its way out of the flange somehow. Talked to Ozzie's about this – this was a new twist for sure – there had never been a fuel leak reported to them. End of story: The bike is now ready for me to pick up WITH A NEW FUEL STRIP INSTALLED UNDER WARRANTY. Yay! The leak was just a loose connector on the fuel line – no biggie – but since I'd been so persistent (thanks to you guys in cluing me in) they decided to just make it right for me and get the whole fuel system back in perfect shape! So there ya go!

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dirtrider
So here's the latest on the fuel gauge saga…. I spoke with Ozzie's about simply replacing the fuel strip – they told me no, at least not under warranty, because the official BMW data base now shows (rightly or wrongly) that it's the flange that's the issue, not the fuel strip. They had done a diagnostic etc etc etc….Blah Blah Blah….anyway, new info: Last weekend I parked the bike in my garage with a full tank of gas. Next morning my garage stunk to high heaven of gas. Ah ha! I sniffed around and it really seemed like the smell was coming from the left side of the bike, then I noticed a 2 inch diameter damp spot on the floor below the bike – definitely leaking gas!!!! I took off the side panel and voila! - the flange was wet all around. This had not happened before because I had never parked the bike with a full tank in my garage. Now the gas was right up to the top of the inside of the tank and it founds its way out of the flange somehow. Talked to Ozzie's about this – this was a new twist for sure – there had never been a fuel leak reported to them. End of story: The bike is now ready for me to pick up WITH A NEW FUEL STRIP INSTALLED UNDER WARRANTY. Yay! The leak was just a loose connector on the fuel line – no biggie – but since I'd been so persistent (thanks to you guys in cluing me in) they decided to just make it right for me and get the whole fuel system back in perfect shape! So there ya go!

 

Afternoon NorCal Rider

 

Well, this goes to show that sometimes persistence trumps dealer denial.

 

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Roger C

Hmm. The 2011 R1200R I recently purchased came with repair records indcating 2 fuel sensors being replaced under warranty at different times. Is this the same part as a fuel strip? BMW has a different language for parts, as I have discovered in the past.

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NorCal Rider

HI Roger.... sorry for the delay.... just now seeing your post. But, yes, Fuel Strip, Fuel Sensor - same part.

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speedybee

Dropped my bike off on Saturday for another fuel strip replacement. I think this is number six. Anyway, I was told that the strips are on backorder. Wouldn't it be nice if this meant that a new version was being produced? Probably just wishful thinking...

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CoarsegoldKid

That would be wishful thinking. Simply determining how much fuel is in the tank became complicated when BMW decided to design a fuel gauge. Maybe the fuel strip, headlamp system and seat designer are one in the same.

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bimmers

i have now ridden 70 miles on new to me 09/1200RT after filling up the tank with 7Gallons. the gauge still shows full and miles to go is 304 still. Theoretically possible but certainly a high mpg so far. My 06 has a different tank opening and can never fill it up with more than 5.5-6G. On that I do get the range to over 300miles so maybe i just need to wait for the gauge to react etc.... I tend to remember that the gauge did show 1/4 when I filled it up so I am a little weary and do follow the trip meter closely.

The 09 has a red insert that seem to block splashing etc. Is this a change in design since 06 or an after market insert?

I also saw in the records that the bike has had two sensors installed, maybe it is the same problem rearing its ugly end here as well, we will see.

 

H

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dirtrider
i have now ridden 70 miles on new to me 09/1200RT after filling up the tank with 7Gallons. the gauge still shows full and miles to go is 304 still. Theoretically possible but certainly a high mpg so far. My 06 has a different tank opening and can never fill it up with more than 5.5-6G. On that I do get the range to over 300miles so maybe i just need to wait for the gauge to react etc.... I tend to remember that the gauge did show 1/4 when I filled it up so I am a little weary and do follow the trip meter closely.

The 09 has a red insert that seem to block splashing etc. Is this a change in design since 06 or an after market insert?

I also saw in the records that the bike has had two sensors installed, maybe it is the same problem rearing its ugly end here as well, we will see.

 

H

 

Afternoon bimmers

 

Give it a few more miles to see if the gauge starts read in the level (if you are riding cautiously then it might go 70 miles before the gauge starts showing the drop).

 

On the orange (red) tank insert?-- the 2009 1200RT has that for sure & I haven't been able to figure out exactly when it went into production but I think somewhere in the mid to late 2008 time frame.

 

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greiffster

Afternoon bimmers

 

Give it a few more miles to see if the gauge starts read in the level (if you are riding cautiously then it might go 70 miles before the gauge starts showing the drop).

 

On the orange (red) tank insert?-- the 2009 1200RT has that for sure & I haven't been able to figure out exactly when it went into production but I think somewhere in the mid to late 2008 time frame.

 

My 2008 GSA has a June build date (as I recall) and has the orange tank insert. But that probably means nothing to an RT. :dopeslap:

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