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17 inch wheel r11 rs


Rgiles

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Needed a rear tire so I finally mounted up a new z6 on a k12 wheel i have been saving. 160-70-17 fits fine no clearence issues using k bike bolts and r bike spacer, my question is can I use the fifth lug bolt in the center?

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Just an update, took a short turn around the block, not good rubbing noise in hub area and rear brake failed to work , pedal the wheel spins and no pedal. Spent all day bleeding brakes no difference pulled center bolt no difference, pulled wheel every thing works old wheel every thing works, due to lug length or wheel interference brake disk is tweeked some thing is not right, read through old articles on the swap one mentioned pulling three bolts that may interfer with the wheel. I will test fit it again while i wait for my new tire to fit the 18 inch wheel

 

Basicly I am paying stupid tax of a couple hundred dollars and still don't have the 17 rear figured out

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Just an update, took a short turn around the block, not good rubbing noise in hub area and rear brake failed to work , pedal the wheel spins and no pedal. Spent all day bleeding brakes no difference pulled center bolt no difference, pulled wheel every thing works old wheel every thing works, due to lug length or wheel interference brake disk is tweeked some thing is not right, read through old articles on the swap one mentioned pulling three bolts that may interfer with the wheel. I will test fit it again while i wait for my new tire to fit the 18 inch wheel

 

Basicly I am paying stupid tax of a couple hundred dollars and still don't have the 17 rear figured out

 

Morning Rgiles

 

You didn't give us enough information to help you find the problem.

 

You say the rear brake doesn't work but didn't tell us WHY the rear brake doesn't work.

 

Is it building proper apply pressure but not gripping the brake rotor, or not making any pressure, or something else completely different?

 

The RS can have a couple of different rear brake rotor styles so are YOU SURE that the K bike rear wheel isn't contacting the brake rotor in the outer dish area or some other area then distorting the rotor.

 

 

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The k bike wheel is a 98krs, I used klt bolts about 5 mm shorter than the r bolts, i also used the wheel spacer/shim from the r bike. Upon assembly the wheel torqued to 105nm the wheel turned by hand no problem but would not spin freely i put a speed bleeder on the rear caliper bled the brake got good pedal but upon turning the rear wheel the pedal would go all the way to the stop thinking i had a random bubble i continued in this manner for hours went to town got a mighty vac ran another pint through. Finally pulling the k bike wheel and turning the disk i was able to get full pedal that did not vanish after the hub was turned. Deducing as you have i must be distorting the rotar i switched back to my r wheel and ordered a new tire in 18 inch. Upon reassembly every thing works as it should. I do not know why the rear brak did not work hense my post i believed i had properly installed the "direct replacement 17 inch wheel properly" i believe i missed something....when i pull the r wheel to mount the new tire i will refit the k bike wheel knowing some how i am binding the rotar and try to find out why but pulling the caliper and exhaust again right now not happening, any hints on what i missed would be welcome

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Afternoon Rgiles

 

What rear brake rotor does your bike have?

 

If like the top one in picture below then check wheel clearance between brake rotor & inside of K bike wheel (red arrows).

 

cvs493m.jpg

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Yes mine is a 95 the top illistration. I have thought that doubling the shim/ spacer may allow clearance for the wheel at the toothed anti lock ring as clearence between the wheel and the ring is the only place i can see that would induce flex in the rotor. And may possibly correct wheel ofset if there is any in that the k wheel is 5 mm thinner at the hub. As evidenced by shorter lugs. Thoughts DR?

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Yes mine is a 95 the top illistration. I have thought that doubling the shim/ spacer may allow clearance for the wheel at the toothed anti lock ring as clearence between the wheel and the ring is the only place i can see that would induce flex in the rotor. And may possibly correct wheel ofset if there is any in that the k wheel is 5 mm thinner at the hub. As evidenced by shorter lugs. Thoughts DR?

 

Afternoon Rgiles

 

If your K wheel is distorting the brake rotor there is no guarantee that 1 extra spacer will be enough.

 

If I was working on that issue I would clean the axle hub with brake clean, then put a ball of modeling clay between each bolt position, then hang the wheel on a couple of wheel studs-- Then push the wheel on until it contacts the brake rotor.

 

Then remove the wheel & measure the thickness of the squished clay. (this will give some idea of the spacer thickness needed)

 

I'm not too enthused with using 2 or 3 wheel spacers as about every time I have tried that on a automobile for test purposes I have to keep checking the wheel nuts as the wheels keep loosening up.

 

If you don't need a lot of spacing then maybe you can figure out where the wheel is contacting the rotor tone ring & grind the clearance needed without effecting the tone ring.

 

I haven't ever tried to put a K bike wheel on those deep-dish brake rotors so I have nothing firm for you on what it takes.

 

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