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Coolant Flush & Fill


narcosis

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Just had to add some coolant to the reservoir and I wondered if a flush & fill is ever required. Not sure how one would go about doing that. Maybe there's a drain plug. My old C50 had one. Anyway, just wondering.

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dirtrider
Just had to add some coolant to the reservoir and I wondered if a flush & fill is ever required. Not sure how one would go about doing that. Maybe there's a drain plug. My old C50 had one. Anyway, just wondering.

 

Afternoon Ken

 

To drain the system there is a coolant drain plug under the L/H cylinder.

 

As far as if a coolant replacement is required-- I don't know. I have a BMW dealer service manual with automated service procedure printout based on time & or miles entered & I tried yearly out to 160,000 miles & date 2023 with no coolant drain, flush, or replacement specified.

 

I suggest that you check with your selling dealer as they might have a BMW service bulletin or other documentation showing IF a flush or replacement is required.

 

 

 

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There is nor service for the radiator or fluid. It is lifetime. Not thrilled on that myself but technology must be good. I was going to do it at 5 years or something and still may. However reading through the service CD a Dealer friend gave me you do in fact need some type of machine to drain the system. I am not sure if you can bleed it without the equipment and get all the air out of the system. Back in the day you dropped the hose drained it, put the hose on and fill it and try to burp it by squeezing the hose and it usually was fine, don't think we are that lucky here.

 

I will look again and pay more attention to what they are saying. Worst case is you could do a dilution, drain the overflow tank and the radiator and put fresh in and call it a day.

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There is nor service for the radiator or fluid. It is lifetime. Not thrilled on that myself but technology must be good. I was going to do it at 5 years or something and still may. However reading through the service CD a Dealer friend gave me you do in fact need some type of machine to drain the system. I am not sure if you can bleed it without the equipment and get all the air out of the system. Back in the day you dropped the hose drained it, put the hose on and fill it and try to burp it by squeezing the hose and it usually was fine, don't think we are that lucky here.

 

I will look again and pay more attention to what they are saying. Worst case is you could do a dilution, drain the overflow tank and the radiator and put fresh in and call it a day.

 

Hmmm .... wasn''t the final drive on the '05 RT's supposed to never need changing as well :ohboy:

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dirtrider
There is nor service for the radiator or fluid. It is lifetime. Not thrilled on that myself but technology must be good. I was going to do it at 5 years or something and still may. However reading through the service CD a Dealer friend gave me you do in fact need some type of machine to drain the system. I am not sure if you can bleed it without the equipment and get all the air out of the system. Back in the day you dropped the hose drained it, put the hose on and fill it and try to burp it by squeezing the hose and it usually was fine, don't think we are that lucky here.

 

I will look again and pay more attention to what they are saying. Worst case is you could do a dilution, drain the overflow tank and the radiator and put fresh in and call it a day.

 

Morning LAF

 

The equipment isn't needed for draining, it is suggested for filling (specifically vacuum filling & purging).

 

That is the same vacuum filling/purging system suggested on the BMW 700/800 bikes & it does make the job quicker & easier at dealer level as they don't have the time required to fiddle around & get all the air out in steps.

 

I have no problem getting the 700/800 bikes full & purged without the vacuum system but it is fiddly & a bit time consuming to be sure that the cooling system is properly burped & all the air is out of the system.

 

I haven't done the new WC 1200 engine yet but there is no doubt in my mind that it can be filled & purged at home but will take persistence & patience as well as a couple of partial engine heating cycles to assure it is fully charged.

 

I guess worst case-- a person could make a simple vacuum evacuation & fill system with a couple of valves, a couple of containers, some clear hose, & a rubber plug for the coolant fill neck then use a running vehicle as the vacuum source (not a diesel vehicle though).

 

I have both an air pressure venturi type vacuum pump & a Robinair A/C evacuation pump but would probably not make a fill/purge setup unless needing to do a number of 1200WC bikes.

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dirtrider
There is nor service for the radiator or fluid. It is lifetime. Not thrilled on that myself but technology must be good.

 

Morning again LAF

 

On the lifetime coolant probability.

 

The lifetime coolant is only as good as what can be maintained. If even a little non-conforming or non-lifetime antifreeze is added to the existing lifetime coolant then the whole lifetime thing is in the toilet.

 

Personally I won't even mix brands or colors when it comes to maintaining lifetime antifreeze. (some do but personally I won't chance it)-- Working in the auto industry I have seen a number of lifetime antifreeze fills turn to black skunky smelling who-knows-what just from someone adding a small amount of non conforming non lifetime antifreeze.

 

When my personal 800GS was a bit low on coolant it took a fair amount of research to match the factory antifreeze in type & color (for the 800 that is Pentofrost NF)-- not available locally but a local auto parts store ordered some in for me.

 

I guess what I'm trying to get across here is to either buy some OEM BMW antifreeze for your BMW WC motorcycle or research the OEM type/basic chemical makeup, & color then match that from an outside source. Then have that on hand before actually needing it to top off your coolant reservoir. (that will remove the temptation of just pouring basic auto antifreeze into your bike if it is found a bit low)

 

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Here is what I can tell you for sure. If you overfill the holding tank, you can't suck it out with a battery bulb or any small piece of hose as it blocked.... Cmon..ask me how I know. So for at least 2 years mine is above the full line slightly with no leaking. I bought a gallon BMW Branded Anti-Freeze from the dealer when I decided to move it from middle of the full marks to top of full marks...got a little heavy handed.

 

I will look into flushing at the 4 year mark. I flushed the brakes again this weekend (once a year) and I can't tell you how much more pleasant that is versus my whizzy brakes of yesteryear. Completely conventional.

Edited by Skywagon
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I will look into flushing at the 4 year mark. I flushed the brakes again this weekend (once a year) and I can't tell you how much more pleasant that is versus my whizzy brakes of yesteryear. Completely conventional.

 

If you installed Speed Bleeders you'd still be grinning!

 

Jay

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Yes any dilution with non branded or non compatible coolant would void the lifetime warranty for sure.

 

I went to the BMW car dealer down the street and bought a gallon shortly after buying the bike when it weeped about 15 drops and I panicked. At 489 miles I had no clue if I would need it but i have it. It never leaked another drop 9500 miles later.

 

As far as the flush I am sure it can be done in a manual way just needs to be explored a bit. I will give these newer antifreeze 5 years but then I will need to change it out and hope someone has gone before me. I will schedule it for dead winter in case something goes south.

 

Someone mentioned brake fluid every year, here is what mine looked like in 2 year almost to the date of build.

front+fluid+drawn+out.jpg

 

May as well show you the weep also.

weep.jpg

Edited by LAF
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That is for my POD 300 with my Power Commander set up. It is a LCD screen that displays TPS, AFR on each cylinder and RPM so I can make sure the dyno tune is correct in the areas I want.

 

I have seen them for sale on Amazon and flea bay.

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