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R1100RT Quit Running But Now Runs Fine


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My 2000 RT quit running last fall as I was riding to work in dense fog. It died as though I had turned the key off. After some research I assumed the Hall Sensor had quit working as the bike is at 85,000 miles and the sensor had not been replaced. Unfortunately I was injured in January and haven't had the ability to get out and work on it until today, and what do you know but it started right up as though nothing had been wrong. Now I'm wondering what is really wrong. I'm going to install the Hall Sensor anyway, but is it possible for a bike ro run after the sensor went bad? Or, could the sensor wires have allowed moisture to seep in that has dried out in the past couple of months. Any Ideas?

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Please keep the forum posted of the results. I am keenly interested as my '96 will probably fail at some point unless I have the HES rewired. From what I have read, one never knows when the HES will fail so it is better to repair before being stranded.

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I agree. I thought I would go ahead and replace it with the new one I purchased and have the old one rewired to keep for next time. Any idea where I can have it rewired?

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... but is it possible for a bike ro run after the sensor went bad? Or, could the sensor wires have allowed moisture to seep in that has dried out in the past couple of months...


Yes and yes. Keep in mind that the actual sensors rarely fail. The wiring from the sensors is the problem area.


This recent related thread will give you additional information.

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Another vote for the HES wires.


If you're replacing yours, please don't throw the old one away. Have it rewired (info in the thread linked above) or sell it on to one of us (on the cheap) who will do it and keep it for a spare. I've been looking for a cheap one to rebuild, but haven't come across one yet.


Though I've heard its rare on these, heat related failures can also be the coil pack. I've got an ongoing saga with my bike and D.R. mentioned a resistance value to test the coil. Keep us posted.


Glad you're recovered enough to be thinking about riding and working on the bike again!



Edited by avu3
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Thanks Scott. Tore my right bicep muscle in January but it is recovering slowly. I'm just now getting to the point I can turn a wrench again. Couple more months it should be good as new I hope.

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Hey, Mustangman40,


GSAddict (one of the gurus on this forum and the MOA) rewires HES units with the proper hi-temp wire and returns to you. Quick turn-around. He has one of mine now.


Contact GSAddict at arbcon@sunshinecoast.ca


He recommends (highly) USPS (and NOT UPS) to Canada. I sent mine First Class for $15.40. Priority is $25 but trackable. You need to fill out a Custome Declaration slip at the PO with: "Motor Cycle Parts For Repair And Return". That way it doesn't get caught up in CA customs. My PO fussed at me for that; I told them it wasn't FOR them!!


This is the connector (located beside the alt under the tank) from the HES on my '99 RT (the one GSAddict has now). The wiring under the sheath is in the same condition usually, I'm told by several.



This connector lives in the open boot in my hand. You have to snake it out from under the alt. _Jcu580KmyXyC_XMC2I5NWdIO9RljoIqMWZQziAf45Q3ok_H71j6PfN4m8xJlY0XmOWZHtbAjrTwKb4oUkeAbv8MJH0LsIalSKR_2cPXiVcDO3eExykY9sssgSgW15h_zKO4VdwcvlR-sl3H43ftEA1kV48hzPGKG2zpM41Ysisnl_C69XeHiauz0OdR1xvONfhG2-trfgpvyneNrp1wpCuUgH0ztDlKqN3XNW1_yXUj18XbvN6GFIFgFfOITfZQmRzdEiS3JilqItFHlg28853e_lyjy7n9dwTe2XFp-glqgsYXuENEKrMpapICH7U850yjtYhSdeWKb-CfHvCNKnd0-9vZlwnsQ8QTYt-Ot-WB4UXVA6ODyItLigtoWubQ-GlCJRud7ytovh_eTO2e1H4m2LXEy5tzHNq0H5XHjKsM-1YaUgAHiRcGAsQzbBFDOUF4Vd40Noc7upOFK5PBhZhQu1XY-gnUwIPJWtE-mwr1SZqGga2MUF3YSF0iSUYbG7ysaK83VSS7NEY-0r5Con0vXJdcRLnwY1G_kif0Q68k1hpE8r3JvhP_cCP5tLBxpI1GoLdShRTmKASr553LBc0-x_MpWajF4OIfe2Fk52eH4QcUaDNr2m_V_nYZaGsTesyiMUKiLMt9lYjFRAoIZtjTY_CHbA_Ge2GazgtXnQ=w336-h596-no?.jpg



Edited by Lowndes
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I replaced the Hall Sensor this morning. The entire job took about 3 hours and the bike now seems to run fine. Looking at the old sensor, I don't see any broken wire coatings or frays in any wires. The job was pretty simple to do. Most of the time was spent removing things in order to get to the sensor and putting it all back on. I will send the old sensor to GS addict and have it rewired to be used again. Thanks for all your help!

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You have to cut through the shrink wrap and then handle the wires.


I was just like you "shrink wrap looks fine". Cut it away some and the wires looked fine. "this was a waste of time". Then I wiggled the wires to work them so I could cut more of the shrink wrap (without nicking them) and got a pile of confetti on my bench.












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Thanks avu3, I was suprised when I looked at the old HES because I expected to see that mine was in the same condition as your pics. I'm sure it is bad under the shrink wrap, I just didn't see any obvious problems on the exposed wires. I'm sending it to GS addict this week to have it rewired.

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Yeah, and since it is a sensor, the breaks in the wire cause shorts and interference that are invisible to the naked eye.


You would not believe the performance improvement I had fixing it. Its unreal. I wish I had listened to DR and done it sooner.


The butt dyno says 30% improvement in performance. Easier starting. Idles with less hold over choke. Less warm up in general. Way more power rolling on the throttle.

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