I-ABS Bleeding procedure (2003 R1150RT)

[PAS]

What exactly is the current procedure to bleed this system? In the past I have used the funnel and also bled the master cylinder reservoirs. Is this still the proper way to do it or has it been changed? Did BMW change the procedure at some point?

Thanks.

[dirtrider]

What exactly is the current procedure to bleed this system? In the past I have used the funnel and also bled the master cylinder reservoirs. Is this still the proper way to do it or has it been changed? Did BMW change the procedure at some point?

Thanks.

 

Afternoon PAS

 

Basically it's still the same procedure that has been in effect all along-- bleed the control circuits & bleed the wheel circuits (reservoirs under fuel tank)

 

BMW did make a slight change by eliminating a couple of intermediate bleeders on the control circuit side but that was only for labor time reduction at dealer level (supposed to knock a little time off the dealer pricing) but most dealers didn't lower their brakes service price.

 

When doing the service at home saving a couple of minutes by shortcutting the control circuit side bleeding procedure is not cost or time effective so it is still better to use the old tried & true do ALL bleeders on the control circuits.

 

 

[PAS]

This is what a friend recently gave me hence the confusion:

 

BMW brake service bulletin, the brake fluid replacement in the control circuits is now only to be carried out by the control circuit bleeding ports. It is no longer required to replace the fluid by the bleeding ports of the metering cylinder or from the integral circuit during routine brake fluid replacement.

[dirtrider]

This is what a friend recently gave me hence the confusion:

 

BMW brake service bulletin, the brake fluid replacement in the control circuits is now only to be carried out by the control circuit bleeding ports. It is no longer required to replace the fluid by the bleeding ports of the metering cylinder or from the integral circuit during routine brake fluid replacement.

 

Afternoon PAS

 

That is basically to allow dealers to lower the brake service price (it didn't work).

 

Unless you are REALLY under a time constraint at home then do ALL the bleeders.

[farmerboy]

I wonder which bleed nipples are which? (metering and integral circuit)

 

I have just been "playing" with my iABS (R1200 but similar to yours)and did a complete flush as per the hogranch instructions.

 

I did a total of 9 bleed points (2 of them twice) it is a right palaver! I am guessing the metering and integral circuits are the ones on the modulator unit? (6 bleed screws). The tank needs to be removed even if the wheel circuits are only being done (to top up the reservoirs) so I guess it makes sense to just do the lot whilst you are in there?

 

I would love to see an (animated) explanation of how this system works!

[dirtrider]

I wonder which bleed nipples are which? (metering and integral circuit)

 

I have just been "playing" with my iABS (R1200 but similar to yours)and did a complete flush as per the hogranch instructions.

 

I did a total of 9 bleed points (2 of them twice) it is a right palaver! I am guessing the metering and integral circuits are the ones on the modulator unit? (6 bleed screws). The tank needs to be removed even if the wheel circuits are only being done (to top up the reservoirs) so I guess it makes sense to just do the lot whilst you are in there?

 

I would love to see an (animated) explanation of how this system works!

 

Afternoon John

 

You are kind of hijacking this 1150 thread by introducing the 1200 brake system into it.

 

We don't want to mix different model systems as these threads stay around for a very long time so someone researching this thread in future could end up with incorrect info for their 1150 bike.

 

If you need info on your 1200 braking system please post that on the hexhead thread & we will try to address it for you there.

[Redman]

So... is an 1150RT brake flush something an average owner should think he can do himself....?

 

I have always done it myself on my Honda and Suzukis (1980s), with a wrench for the bleeder valve, a piece of tubing into a jar, and a $5 bottle of brake fluid. Squeeze, bleed, close, release, refill - - repeat.

 

But when I first got the 1150RT, somehow I got the idea that a dealer technicain needed to do it. I know there are 4 circuits. Two for the levers, and two for the controller/wheels. So I thought I would not know what to do for the circuits from the controllers to the wheels.

Maybe it was that idea , or maybe it was the $300(?) estimate from the dealer that made me think I should not do it.

 

And here in Michigan, (humid summer, and cold storage in winter) the fluid flush probably should be done annually, or at least every 2 years.

 

Any comments?

 

 

 

 

[Oldrider51]

I do the brake fluid flush of the control circuits (levers to ABS unit) and the pressure circuits to the calipers myself every year. A little time consuming but not hard. Got the funnel for my bike from Beemerboneyard and you can make or buy the bleeder bottle.

[dirtrider]

So... is an 1150RT brake flush something an average owner should think he can do himself....?

 

I have always done it myself on my Honda and Suzukis (1980s), with a wrench for the bleeder valve, a piece of tubing into a jar, and a $5 bottle of brake fluid. Squeeze, bleed, close, release, refill - - repeat.

 

But when I first got the 1150RT, somehow I got the idea that a dealer technicain needed to do it. I know there are 4 circuits. Two for the levers, and two for the controller/wheels. So I thought I would not know what to do for the circuits from the controllers to the wheels.

Maybe it was that idea , or maybe it was the $300(?) estimate from the dealer that made me think I should not do it.

 

And here in Michigan, (humid summer, and cold storage in winter) the fluid flush probably should be done annually, or at least every 2 years.

 

Any comments?

 

 

Evening Redman

 

It REALY isn't that difficult to do at home, nothing requiring any special skills or special tools (lots of on-line how-to's)

 

You don't even need a special funnel, just a bottle with a small diameter spout with the bottom cut out & a tapered rubber plug that fits your ABS controller reservoir holes with a hole drilled through the center.

 

Then a long clear hose that fits your ABS controller bleed fittings & a catch bottle to terminate that hose into.

 

Every 2 years is fine for Michigan area, OR what I used to do is just do it every time that you have your fuel tank removed for some other service any time over 6-8 months from the last time it was done.

 

Even if you don't have a reason to remove the tank at least do it when you have the Tupperware removed for some reason .

 

Buy a quart of Dot 4 brake fluid (it probably won't take a quart but a quart makes sure that you have enough to complete the service).

 

You can make (or just guess at) the brake pad pry-back spacers--they really aren't required to properly bleed the brakes but should be used to properly set the fluid levels in the under-tank ABS controller reservoirs.

 

Added: If you do decide to do it yourself be SURE to cover your painted areas around & under the master cylinders & especially your instrument cluster as brake fluid IS a good paint remover & can ruin you dash plastics in a nano-second if any gets on the dash (I use large plastic garbage bags to cover the important areas)

 

Also, toss a quarter, or better yet toss a carpet knife blade into the bottom of the front handlebar master cylinder as that keeps the fluid from squirting out all over everything when you pump the front brake lever. (easier to get the carpet knife blade out as you can use a small pocket magnet) or just leave the quarter in there.

Edited March 28, 2017 by dirtrider

[farmerboy]

I wonder which bleed nipples are which? (metering and integral circuit)

 

I have just been "playing" with my iABS (R1200 but similar to yours)and did a complete flush as per the hogranch instructions.

 

I did a total of 9 bleed points (2 of them twice) it is a right palaver! I am guessing the metering and integral circuits are the ones on the modulator unit? (6 bleed screws). The tank needs to be removed even if the wheel circuits are only being done (to top up the reservoirs) so I guess it makes sense to just do the lot whilst you are in there?

 

I would love to see an (animated) explanation of how this system works!

 

Afternoon John

 

You are kind of hijacking this 1150 thread by introducing the 1200 brake system into it.

 

We don't want to mix different model systems as these threads stay around for a very long time so someone researching this thread in future could end up with incorrect info for their 1150 bike.

 

If you need info on your 1200 braking system please post that on the hexhead thread & we will try to address it for you there.

 

No problem DR.

I thought my 2006 iABS system was essentially the same as the 1150. My apologies.

 

John

[dirtrider]

 

No problem DR.

I thought my 2006 iABS system was essentially the same as the 1150. My apologies.

 

 

Evening John

 

The pressure modulators are pretty close but the mounting & access is vastly different so the procedure on one might be misleading for working on the other-- Best just to keep the 2 models separate.

[AndyS]

Best just to keep the 2 models separate.

 

Amen!

[PAS]

Thanks DR! Let me ask another question. I still have the original brake lines on the 03. If I were to replace them with the Spieglers, how hard is it to bleed all the air out of the system?

 

Is their a procedure listed on how to do this? I'm afraid of creating a situation that I cant resolve.

 

Seriously thinking of selling the bike but want to make sure its at least bled and maybe new lines.

[dirtrider]

Thanks DR! Let me ask another question. I still have the original brake lines on the 03. If I were to replace them with the Spieglers, how hard is it to bleed all the air out of the system?

 

Is their a procedure listed on how to do this? I'm afraid of creating a situation that I cant resolve.

 

Seriously thinking of selling the bike but want to make sure its at least bled and maybe new lines.

 

Morning PAS

 

It's not that bad to bleed the entire system but it can take some playing around to get ALL the air out of the control side circuits. The wheel side circuits bleed out pretty easily as they use the servo pumps to push the fluid through.

 

What lines are you planning on updating? If just the lower (wheel side lines then no problems at all bleeding the system)

[PAS]

Thanks DR! Let me ask another question. I still have the original brake lines on the 03. If I were to replace them with the Spieglers, how hard is it to bleed all the air out of the system?

 

Is their a procedure listed on how to do this? I'm afraid of creating a situation that I cant resolve.

 

Seriously thinking of selling the bike but want to make sure its at least bled and maybe new lines.

 

Morning PAS

 

It's not that bad to bleed the entire system but it can take some playing around to get ALL the air out of the control side circuits. The wheel side circuits bleed out pretty easily as they use the servo pumps to push the fluid through.

 

What lines are you planning on updating? If just the lower (wheel side lines then no problems at all bleeding the system)

What lines would you recommend be replaced? Spiegler lists a kit with 5 lines included?

Edited March 29, 2017 by PAS

[dirtrider]

What lines would you recommend be replaced? Spiegler lists a kit with 5 lines included?

 

Evening PAS

 

That is difficult to answer or easy to answer depending.

 

The quick answer is to replace any line that has issues or could have issues.

 

I suppose the 5 line kit makes sense as that way you will only have to bleed/flush it once.

 

 

[ltljohn]

Thanks DR! Let me ask another question. I still have the original brake lines on the 03. If I were to replace them with the Spieglers, how hard is it to bleed all the air out of the system?

 

Is their a procedure listed on how to do this? I'm afraid of creating a situation that I cant resolve.

 

Seriously thinking of selling the bike but want to make sure its at least bled and maybe new lines.

 

Morning PAS

 

It's not that bad to bleed the entire system but it can take some playing around to get ALL the air out of the control side circuits. The wheel side circuits bleed out pretty easily as they use the servo pumps to push the fluid through.

 

What lines are you planning on updating? If just the lower (wheel side lines then no problems at all bleeding the system)

What lines would you recommend be replaced? Spiegler lists a kit with 5 lines included?

 

I did the 5 line kit on my 02 RT the speigler kit is worth the price. It is not hard to do just take your time and get all of the air out.