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Dreaded brake failure today..


farmerboy

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:(:(

 

Beautiful day with a ride out with my BMW club pals spoilt by the RT throwing a wobbly and ditching its brakes. I was cruising up the motorway when I noticed a nasty red triangle and brake failure. Nasty business methinks and when I try the brakes I realise the bike is being serious!

I know stuff goes wrong but someone at BMW needs a good slapping for this design! The "residual" braking is about as effective as dragging your feet on the ground..

 

I pulled over tried a reset which worked for a while but after 5 resets the warning became permanent. A quick about face and off I go home with my tail between my legs. It is no joke riding a bike with no brakes but a careful 40 mile ride home and Mr Honda to the rescue.

I had lavished a huge amount of love and attention on the RT over the winter and changed every molecule of fluid... the VFR has languished with no attention at all but purred into life and whisked me back up the motorway to the meet. Motto.... treat em mean and keep em keen!

 

I am just about to start googling "2006 R1200 RT brake vasectomy" as I guess the ABS/servo thing is buggered and quite honestly I wouyld rather be without it!

 

If anyone has done it please point me in the right direction and any advice will be gratefully received.

 

Regards

 

John from sunny England.

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I am just about to start googling "2006 R1200 RT brake vasectomy" as I guess the ABS/servo thing is buggered and quite honestly I wouyld rather be without it!

 

If anyone has done it please point me in the right direction and any advice will be gratefully received.

 

 

Afternoon John

 

It can be done but not as easily as it was on the older BMW 1100/1150 bikes.

 

The problem is: on your 1200 bike the speedometer is controlled by the ABS computer. So if simply remove the ABS servo system & re-plumb the brake hydraulics then you will not have a working speedometer or cruise control.

 

You CAN take your ABS controller apart & just use the electronics end of it to work the speedometer but ONLY if your speedometer is operating OK now.

 

Easiest thing is to see what has failed or your current brake system & try to repair it-- could be as simples a stone caught in you brake switch or something complicated & expensive.

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The speedo is OK. I have just had a quick look and topped up the brake fluid - it was a tiny bit low. It is obviously unhappy because when I switch the ign on sometimes I can hear the wizzy noise working away without stopping and the next time I try all is silent! No obvious fluid leaks.

Am I correct in assuming that if the speedo is functional it is possible to just remove the servo (wizzy) bit and leave the electronic wizardry connected?

It may be something simple (fingers crossed) but the bike has 74000 miles on it so it has not done too bad...

 

Anyway, google here I come.

 

John

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The speedo is OK. I have just had a quick look and topped up the brake fluid - it was a tiny bit low. It is obviously unhappy because when I switch the ign on sometimes I can hear the wizzy noise working away without stopping and the next time I try all is silent! No obvious fluid leaks.

Am I correct in assuming that if the speedo is functional it is possible to just remove the servo (wizzy) bit and leave the electronic wizardry connected?

It may be something simple (fingers crossed) but the bike has 74000 miles on it so it has not done too bad...

 

Afternoon John

 

*****--That wizzy sometimes on & sometimes not could easily point to a sticking brake switch. Worth checking out anyhow.

 

*****--You can remove just the servo & hydraulic part but you need to make a waterproof block-off cover for the exposed electronics for that to work.

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Well that sounds promising... thankyou! I really should buy a newer one but this darling of a bike has taken me many happy miles and I would really like to try and keep the old girl going!

 

Resale is probably less than the cost of a new servo unit so a fiendish plan is required.

 

Just nipping out to check the brake switch... ever hopeful!

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Try YouTube.com and search for BMW ABS Servo removal. I have seen some YouTube videos about doing this work and dealing with reconnecting the brake light switches and speedo.

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Still googling well after midnight... :(

The good news is it appears that motorwerks do a kit for the R1200RT (bits of brake pipe) for when the servo/abs is removed so it looks like it is similar to the 1150 procedure. I shall leave this as a last resort as it still leaves the issue of the damn lights flashing. Luckily my speedo is fine.

 

Symptoms were... (mainly for my benefit before I forget!)

1. noticed red triangle and flashing red "brake failure (fast flashing)

2. brakes were in residual mode - ie bloody useless.

3. pulled over and switched bike off - restarted and everything was normal.. brakes good.... rode on (nervously)

4. red triangle and flashing text again....

5. pull over and another successful reset..... followed by same failure shortly afterwards.

6. now heading for home and bike ran for a good while normally - I did not try either brake.

7. I "think" I used the rear brake and the warnings re-appeared. Tried a reset but no joy and the red triangle and flashing text were now permanent.

.......at home now and tried a bit of fiddling....

8. Ign on and wizzy sounds are on permanently. Back brake makes no change to wizzy sound but front brake "modulates" the wizzy sound. Key off to stop wizzy noise.

9. Ign on and no wizzy sound at all.... silence. Operating brakes makes no sound. Same dash warning on all the time.

 

There appear to be a range of things to try before ripping the damn thing out. I guess I really need to know what is causing the issue before I proceed. However, I am leaning towards removal because if this had happened on one of my more exuberant rides in the Dales it could have been "interesting"!!!! Apparently the brakes work fine without the servo and I can live without ABS.

 

I suspect I may have got something wrong during the major service over the winter. Brake fluid was flushed through and I may have cocked something up!

 

I have just put the battery on charge as it appeared a bit low. It is of unknown provenance so may be on its last legs.

Check again that speedo and cruise control are working (relates to wheel speed sensors)

I shall check both speed sensor wires for chafing or cuts.

Check brake switches are operating correctly - although I am not sure how to do this... if brake lights work all is good?

Check brake bulbs are ok. (recently changed for new ones)

Remove the tank and check the fluid levels in the servo/abs module.

If all is good borrow or buy a GS911

Isolate problem - assuming that it will be the servo unit by now.... remove it and start researching how to deal with the warning lights.

 

I am spreading the net wide and posting on other BMW forums to try and find someone with the same symptoms.

 

Does this represent a sensible approach?

 

Thanks guys

 

John

Edited by farmerboy
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Results after charging the battery overnight..

 

Ign. on, red triangle and red "brake failure" flashing fast. Servo wizzy sound on permanently and the sound is "modulated" (varies) when applying front and rear brakes.

 

Ign off then Ign on - red triangle plus brake failure but this time SLOW flashing, red triangle turns yellow and goes out- still permanent servo sound. Start bike and left with slow flashing brake failure warning. Ride forward, all lights extinguished and brakes are normal.

 

So, charging the battery appears to have cleared the problem but I am concerned that the servos run permanently when ign is on. I shall leave it for a bit and try again.

 

I have a battery load tester and will check the battery this morning. Maybe, just maybe the battery is on its way out.

 

Again a POX on the designer of this system if it turns out that a bad battery bins the brakes... so so bad design.

 

ps. I have checked the battery voltage and get 13.3V. When the bike is running it is 14.1 volts. The load test shows a good battery - middle of the "good" range on the load meter. It looks like the battery and charging system are ok and the bike now seems to start and run (and stop!) as normal. All indications are normal and everything appears to work just fine.

This worries me as all I have done is charge the battery and fiddle with the cables to the wheel sensors...

I think it is time to buy a gs911.

 

Edited by farmerboy
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Morning John

 

 

1. noticed red triangle and flashing red "brake failure (fast flashing)--This just means a brake failure.

 

2. brakes were in residual mode - ie bloody useless.--Yes, they don't have much power without the servos.

 

3. pulled over and switched bike off - restarted and everything was normal.. brakes good.... rode on (nervously)--This can point to a number of possibilities.

 

4. red triangle and flashing text again....--Again brake failure warning.

 

5. pull over and another successful reset..... followed by same failure shortly afterwards.

 

6. now heading for home and bike ran for a good while normally - I did not try either brake.--This could be pointing towards a sticking brake switch or????.

 

7. I "think" I used the rear brake and the warnings re-appeared. Tried a reset but no joy and the red triangle and flashing text were now permanent.--Rear brake circuit could be causing the problem.

 

8. Ign on and wizzy sounds are on permanently. Back brake makes no change to wizzy sound but front brake "modulates" the wizzy sound. Key off to stop wizzy noise.--This usually points to either a stuck, or open brake switch, or internal Controller failure.

 

9. Ign on and no wizzy sound at all.... silence. Operating brakes makes no sound. Same dash warning on all the time.--That sounds like it shut down totally (maybe low voltage or internal problem.

 

There appear to be a range of things to try before ripping the damn thing out. I guess I really need to know what is causing the issue before I proceed. However, I am leaning towards removal because if this had happened on one of my more exuberant rides in the Dales it could have been "interesting"!!!! Apparently the brakes work fine without the servo and I can live without ABS.

 

I suspect I may have got something wrong during the major service over the winter. Brake fluid was flushed through and I may have cocked something up!

 

I have just put the battery on charge as it appeared a bit low. It is of unknown provenance so may be on its last legs.--With engine running the ABS & servo system runs off of the alternator so with engine running battery shouldn't be the cause unless you have a LOT of things that significantly lower the system voltage while running.

 

Check again that speedo and cruise control are working (relates to wheel speed sensors)

I shall check both speed sensor wires for chafing or cuts.--This only tells you that the rear wheel sensor is working. BUT, as a rule a bad or open wheel sensor won't cause a wizzy failure. It can cause an ABS failure but usually not a servo quit.

 

Check brake switches are operating correctly - although I am not sure how to do this... if brake lights work all is good?--With engine & key off just listen for the light click as you operate the lever or pedal.

 

Check brake bulbs are ok. (recently changed for new ones)--Bulbs being out won't cause a servo malfunction, just a light-out dash light on.

 

Remove the tank and check the fluid levels in the servo/abs module.--Not a bad idea.

 

If all is good borrow or buy a GS911--This is a very good idea.

 

Isolate problem - assuming that it will be the servo unit by now.... remove it and start researching how to deal with the warning lights.--Yes, the dash lights will be a problem to solve.

 

I am spreading the net wide and posting on other BMW forums to try and find someone with the same symptoms.

 

Does this represent a sensible approach?--Yes.

 

 

 

 

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Battery test completed and all is good. Everything is working as it should now but I am concerned that I may have an intermittent fault. I have ordered a GS 911 (£270 ....groan ) so I can see what codes are evident. It looks like I shall be sticking with BMW after this investment!

 

 

I think my system is very similar if not the same as the 1150. The module that operates the servos looks the same anyway.

 

I shall have a good check of all the cables etc now that it is working and see if I can reproduce the fault.

 

Weird... and frankly dangerous!

 

I guess I need to go out for a test ride and see what happens!

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Battery test completed and all is good. Everything is working as it should now but I am concerned that I may have an intermittent fault. I have ordered a GS 911 (£270 ....groan ) so I can see what codes are evident. It looks like I shall be sticking with BMW after this investment!

 

 

I think my system is very similar if not the same as the 1150. The module that operates the servos looks the same anyway.

 

I shall have a good check of all the cables etc now that it is working and see if I can reproduce the fault.

 

 

Morning John

 

The ABS part of the 1200 I-ABS system is very similar to the old 1150 I-ABS RT-P servo.

 

The BIG difference is that your 1200 I-ABS controller has a CAN (Controller Area Network) output that talks to other modules on the bike. That is how the road speed signal is passed on to the dash module.

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I thought I would take it out for a test run...

Ign. on - all normal until I hit the start button and I get a red triangle flash up briefly and the brake failure warning is flashing fast. Front brakes are normal but rear brakes seem weak. Stop bike and try again - the brake failure is flashing fast and the servo motors are running permanently. Switch off. Try again and I am back to the original fault with brake failure flashing fast and only residual braking.

My guess is that it is something to do with the rear brake system or a low voltage caused by something. I shall investigate the rear brake switch and charge the battery again and see what happens.

 

This could end up being a long drawn out battle... :(

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I thought I would take it out for a test run...

Ign. on - all normal until I hit the start button and I get a red triangle flash up briefly and the brake failure warning is flashing fast. Front brakes are normal but rear brakes seem weak. Stop bike and try again - the brake failure is flashing fast and the servo motors are running permanently. Switch off. Try again and I am back to the original fault with brake failure flashing fast and only residual braking.

My guess is that it is something to do with the rear brake system or a low voltage caused by something. I shall investigate the rear brake switch and charge the battery again and see what happens.

 

This could end up being a long drawn out battle...

 

 

Morning John

 

2 things--

 

Put a voltmeter across the battery posts then see what the battery voltage is (drops to) when you problem happens. If it drops to below 9.5-9.9 volts then possibly a bad battery.

 

Get a GS-911 on that bike to see what is happening (failure code wise).

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I seem to have managed to get some consistency to the fault now.

Ign on and bike goes through its normal routine with slow flashing brake failure - all good. Leave it alone (no start) and after a few seconds the servos kick in and it throws a fault with the brake failure flashing quickly. The voltage drops a lot when this happens and it appears that the servos take a lot of current.

After I have done this a few times (and as the battery gets weaker) the brake failure comes up flashing quickly and sometimes the servos work and sometimes not...

I have done a video to illustrate..

 

this one is when the battery is "fresh"

 

this is after a few attempts and the battery is weakened.

 

It looks like the fault is voltage sensitive so I shall try a different battery although it tested fine this morning after an overnight charge.

 

Watch this space!

 

Question - do the front and rear master cylinders "feed" the servo reservoirs? ie if the servo is low on brake fluid is it supplied from the master cylinder reservoirs on the handlebars and under the seat?

 

 

 

Edited by farmerboy
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I seem to have managed to get some consistency to the fault now.

Ign on and bike goes through its normal routine with slow flashing brake failure - all good. Leave it alone (no start) and after a few seconds the servos kick in and it throws a fault with the brake failure flashing quickly. The voltage drops a lot when this happens and it appears that the servos take a lot of current.

After I have done this a few times (and as the battery gets weaker) the brake failure comes up flashing quickly and sometimes the servos work and sometimes not...

I have done a video to illustrate..

 

this one is when the battery is "fresh"

 

this is after a few attempts and the battery is weakened.

 

It looks like the fault is voltage sensitive so I shall try a different battery although it tested fine this morning after an overnight charge.

 

Watch this space!

 

Question - do the front and rear master cylinders "feed" the servo reservoirs? ie if the servo is low on brake fluid is it supplied from the master cylinder reservoirs on the handlebars and under the seat?

 

 

 

Morning John

 

The master cylinders at the rear brake pedal & front lever DO NOT feed the under tank reservoirs (they are JUST control circuits)

 

Your problem is sounding more like a brake switch or possibly open wire to a brake switch than a fluid level issue (usually with a fluid level issue the servos don't run)

 

The brake switch's on your bike operate at reverse logic (open circuit- ie switch open= servos ON // closed circuit-ie NC switch = servos off)

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Thanks DR.... I have sprayed the switches with contact cleaner and they both (front and rear) make nice satisfying clicks when operated and the brake lights work as they should. Do I need to attach a meter to check them properly?

 

ps the symptoms have developed now and when ign on the servos do not run at all (no noise) and the brake failure flashes quickly.

 

.......new battery has made no difference.

 

I think I will remove the tank and check the servo unit. I flushed the brakes over the winter and I may have done something wrong or not added enough fluid to the control reservoirs.

I will be happier having a visual inspection of the unit anyway.

 

The more I read about this unit the more worried I get... I have found endless posts regarding failures similar to mine. I had no idea it was so common on bikes of my vintage. No wonder they ditched the system on later models!

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Thanks DR.... I have sprayed the switches with contact cleaner and they both (front and rear) make nice satisfying clicks when operated and the brake lights work as they should. Do I need to attach a meter to check them properly?

 

ps the symptoms have developed now and when ign on the servos do not run at all (no noise) and the brake failure flashes quickly.

 

.......new battery has made no difference.

 

I think I will remove the tank and check the servo unit. I flushed the brakes over the winter and I may have done something wrong or not added enough fluid to the control reservoirs.

I will be happier having a visual inspection of the unit anyway.

 

The more I read about this unit the more worried I get... I have found endless posts regarding failures similar to mine. I had no idea it was so common on bikes of my vintage. No wonder they ditched the system on later models!

 

Afternoon John

 

Actually I have seen more failures on the later non-servo Gen-II ABS systems.

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Additional info...... I have removed the tank and had a look at the servo unit. When the servo/abs unit was exposed I saw that one of the rubber covers for the bleed nipples was off and it was sat on the servo unit, full of brake fluid. There was also a tiny bit of brake fluid around the nipple. I have nipped it up but suspect that I may not have seated/tightened it properly when I bled the system and some fluid has escaped thus popping off the rubber cap? I am sure it was replaced originally. On checking the reservoir next to it I noticed that the level was lower than the other reservoir. I do remember a peculiar "pulse" when riding last week on the front brake but it did not affect the brakes at the time.

I guess this will have allowed air to enter the system so I shall have a go at flushing the system again as I still have all the gear from my last attempt.

 

Here are some pics..

They show both servo unit reservoirs - one is lower than the other. The other pic is the nipple without its cap... hard to see but it is in the middle of the pic.

 

https://goo.gl/photos/k6FKD7rFxUBBS9NU8

 

Having filled the servo reservoir and tried it again the fault remains the same ie fast flashing brake failure and no noise from the servos.

 

Edited by farmerboy
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Additional info...... I have removed the tank and had a look at the servo unit. When the servo/abs unit was exposed I saw that one of the rubber covers for the bleed nipples was off and it was sat on the servo unit, full of brake fluid. There was also a tiny bit of brake fluid around the nipple. I have nipped it up but suspect that I may not have seated/tightened it properly when I bled the system and some fluid has escaped thus popping off the rubber cap? I am sure it was replaced originally. On checking the reservoir next to it I noticed that the level was lower than the other reservoir. I do remember a peculiar "pulse" when riding last week on the front brake but it did not affect the brakes at the time.

I guess this will have allowed air to enter the system so I shall have a go at flushing the system again as I still have all the gear from my last attempt.

 

Here are some pics..

They show both servo unit reservoirs - one is lower than the other. The other pic is the nipple without its cap... hard to see but it is in the middle of the pic.

 

Having filled the servo reservoir and tried it again the fault remains the same ie fast flashing brake failure and no noise from the servos.

 

Afternoon John

 

Get that GS-911 on it & grab the failure code(s) as that should give us a definite path to follow.

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ref the "additional info" above.. I have checked the minimum levels required for the servo reservoirs and both mine were above minimum (although one was low) so that may not be the problem here.

 

This "residual" braking has made me wonder if I am likely to have further issues with the abs/servo unit even if I get this fault rectified. The bike is getting on a bit and has over 70,000 miles... you know, I think I shall remove it so I can stop worrying about it. I have never had a bike with abs before so I think I can cope...

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ref the "additional info" above.. I have checked the minimum levels required for the servo reservoirs and both mine were above minimum (although one was low) so that may not be the problem here.

 

This "residual" braking has made me wonder if I am likely to have further issues with the abs/servo unit even if I get this fault rectified. The bike is getting on a bit and has over 70,000 miles... you know, I think I shall remove it so I can stop worrying about it. I have never had a bike with abs before so I think I can cope...

 

Afternoon John

 

Personally I wouldn't do anything UNTIL you figure what is wrong with it (might be something simple)

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Update...

 

I got all my bleeding gear together (ha ha) and the instructions... I did not bother with removing the calipers as this is just a bleed not a flush.

I removed the large electrical connector (by mistake) so replaced it and low and behold everything works as it should! I removed the electrical connector again and gave it another spray with contact cleaner and replaced it carefully. Ign on, and I am rewarded with a successful abs check with lovely sounding servos, repeated a few times and all is well.

I elected to proceed with the brake bleed and did the front and back wheels circuits and everything went as advertised and now everything appears to be as it should. I did not notice any bubbles in the fluid. I have switched the bike on and off half a dozen times and each time was successful and consistent.

 

 

So, the question is "have I fixed it?" ...........It may just have been a bad electrical connection all the time causing the odd spike and only working intermittently when voltage was high or maybe I had some air in the system or maybe those rear bulbs played a part in this pantomime?

I guess I may as well continue with the bleed procedure and do the remaining circuits.... my concern is that I do not feel that I have found a definite and conclusive reason for the failure and that I may end up with brake failure further down the road.

 

OK... complete re-bleed is now done successfully and everything is working exactly as it should. (I will need to buy a new set of bleed nipples ready for next time as one of them is starting to round off)

 

Only one of the circuits (on the ABS/servo unit showed any air bubbles.... this surprised me as they were all clear the last time I did it (recently). It makes me wonder if I missed one (there are 6) or if I was disturbed and did not bleed enough fluid through. The circuit in question bled clear at first but I then decided to give it another "reservoir full" and quite a few tiny bubbles appeared.... I kept going for SIX reservoirs worth of fluid until it cleared! I guess this servo unit contains more fluid than I thought!

 

NOTE: when re-fitting the big electrical connector I thought it was seated ok but I got the old "no servo and fast flashing brake failure" symptoms. I simply remade the connection and noticed a satisfying click.... this time all was well. I have tried the brakes for a considerable period and I have no leaks and everything is just as it should be.

 

 

Conclusion.....

 

The wide variety of symptoms makes me think that I had more than one issue with the brake system.

 

I am sure I had an electrical problem and I am reasonably confident that it was related to the large connector block not being seated properly and/or a poor connection on one or more of its terminals.

 

The air in one of the circuits was a bummer as that points to poor workmanship on my part! The front brake lever now feels MUCH firmer than it was before and my guess is that I missed that circuit completely when I was flushing the system over the winter. I am often summoned to get the horses in from the field when mid "repair" so it is quite possible that I thought it was done but was not! Silly me.

 

 

I have to say that it looks like the issues were caused by my inexperience and poor attention to detail so I shall have to put this down to experience and do it right next time! :(

 

Under the circumstances I am happy to leave the brakes as Mr BMW intended and ride on...

 

Happy bunny and the sun is shining... just a gizzillion screws to put back now!

 

Thanks to all for the valuable help.

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Afternoon John

 

You might have repaired it & might not have (if I had to guess then it would be that the problem will return at a later date)

 

In any case, if you still have access to that ABS connector then remove it again then look VERY CAREFULLY to make sure that no terminals are pushed partially back into the connector. If the terminal locks are not working then it is easy to push a terminal partially out of place when installing the connector.

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Afternoon John

 

You might have repaired it & might not have (if I had to guess then it would be that the problem will return at a later date)

 

In any case, if you still have access to that ABS connector then remove it again then look VERY CAREFULLY to make sure that no terminals are pushed partially back into the connector. If the terminal locks are not working then it is easy to push a terminal partially out of place when installing the connector.

 

 

Thanks DR, yes I did check it very carefully... reading specs on and bright flashlight! I removed a few bits of corrosion and used some contact cleaner. Everything looks good now and I am happy that it is seated correctly with a nice click.

 

Time will tell and I am sure it will have further surprises for me but for now I am content that it is working correctly. Next step is a full system check with the GS911.

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"You might have repaired it & might not have (if I had to guess then it would be that the problem will return at a later date)"

 

....right again DR! Failed again after about 200 miles half way down a mountain pass in Wales! (exact same symptoms) Time to remove it methinks!

 

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Update... So far so good.... Brakes bled and feel really good - (no test ride yet). Re-connecting the electronic brain of the abs/servo has restored all functions, speedo, cruise, brake lights and the only issue was the flashing warning lights.

In the vain hope that abs modulators may become cheaply available in the future I want to be able to reverse all of this so I decided to just blank off the warning lights. I removed the dash and cover from the instrument panel to reveal the led's that were busily flashing away. The "brake failure" led recess was plugged with some high density foam, cut to shape and the red triangle recess had a red and a amber led. I cut a piece of high density foam to cover just the red one so I will still get the amber low fuel etc warning. All good and tested with a blanket over my head to ensure it will be ok at night! (wife thinks I have lost the plot!) I just need to seal the open side of the abs brain electronics and then have a test ride.

The bike, strangely, starts easier and the tickover is less lumpy.... no idea why that should be? Cannot wait to ride it sans servo.. Note, the servo is surprisingly heavy - maybe 10kg so I will be about 2 gallons of fuel lighter permanently!

This is not technically difficult to do, just a bit "long winded" and fiddly.

Pics to follow... :)

 

I have just been out for a test ride and I am absolutely delighted. I know everyone always thinks their "mod" is the best thing since sliced bread but removing the damn servo has transformed the brakes. So much better. It is hard to believe that Mr BMW decided to bugger about with such a fine standard brake set up. OK, add a bit of abs but the servo nonsense is ridiculous....

 

No damn wizzy sounds, no grabby brakes at low speed, rear brake has more feel and easier to use on a hill start and the front brakes are epic - great progressive feel and real power when pulled in anger. I should have done this years ago! I hesitate to say this but they "feel" more efficient without the servo!

 

All I have to worry about now is brake fluid and seals.... like every other bike on the planet!

 

The bike also feels as if it drops into corners more readily, maybe this is my imagination or due to no luggage and only a gallon of fuel but it certainly feels "sportier".

 

So.... if anyone is considering removing the servo on an early model R1200RT my advice is a big definite yes.

 

Happy bunny......

 

ps.....I must have a look and find out what else the red triangle warns me about so I know which warnings will not work anymore!

 

 

link to pics...

https://goo.gl/photos/rdmUjj3jjA8z4Ziq7

Edited by farmerboy
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Afternoon farmerboy

 

I don't see in the pictures where you built or installed a block-off cover for the brake electronics?

 

Was that just missed in the pictures or did you leave the electronics open?

 

If you left them open moisture will get into the electronics & eventually kill that black box.

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Afternoon farmerboy

 

I don't see in the pictures where you built or installed a block-off cover for the brake electronics?

 

Was that just missed in the pictures or did you leave the electronics open?

 

If you left them open moisture will get into the electronics & eventually kill that black box.

 

I forgot to take pics of that bit... I am useless at multitasking!

All I did was drill out the security bolts, remove the electronics bit and make a plastic cover from an old plastic lid. Superglued it in place and silicone sealed all round. (same for the holes in the side). I then covered it in layers of foam and popped it back were it used to live.

 

I was delighted that all the electrical stuff worked ok. Brake lights, speedo, cruise control and self cancelling indicators are all good. :)

 

ps.... an additional benefit is that a weird noise I have had for ages when the bike is cold has disappeared!!

info here...the joys of old bikes!

 

http://www.bmbikes.org.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=85&t=23779&p=167825#p167825

Edited by farmerboy
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So farmerboy, do you have brakes when the bike is off? That is one of my biggest complaints. Parking on a hill and then holding the bike still while starting - then the brakes engage.

Of course in thinking about a full brake failure like you had causes me to rethink this bike entirely.

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So farmerboy, do you have brakes when the bike is off? That is one of my biggest complaints. Parking on a hill and then holding the bike still while starting - then the brakes engage.

Of course in thinking about a full brake failure like you had causes me to rethink this bike entirely.

 

Yes, brakes work all the time now - just like any other bike. If I thought anything was unsafe or dodgy in any way I would not recommend it but I am genuinely astonished at how good the brakes are without the servo system. I have a 2010 Honda VFR as well and the brakes on the RT are now better than that.

 

The only down side is the loss of the abs but having lost my brakes on the RT twice, once at 80mph on the motorway and the second time descending a mountain pass in Wales I think I can live without abs if the brakes are now trustworthy.

 

The "residual braking" is truly frightening - no use whatsoever above 15 mph.

 

The bike is lighter, easier to maintain, and I am now confident that the brakes will do what they are supposed to do. I bet a lot of bikes of my vintage (2006) will be having this crazy servo thing removed soon.

 

John

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The "residual braking" is truly frightening - no use whatsoever above 15 mph.

 

I'm assuming that the residual braking on the '06 felt similar to that of my '03 1150RT. I wouldn't say it's that bad. You certainly have to grab and stomp the thing hard to get decent braking power. Like others, I recommend anyone with a "whizzy" bike practice stopping the bike w/o servo power a couple times to get used to the feel in case of a failure.

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