Center stand springs

[temesvar]

Since i lowered the suspension, time has come to shorten the center stand.

I guess i am one of the few that uses the center stand regularly Removing it

was not a breeze as i thought: managed to strip the hex inside the flat head

screw. Was not easy to drill it out, since it is from inside out, not as the parts

schematic shows. Al set there, removed the stand with the springs on. However,

have no idea how am i going to re install them springs!!Any suggestions? Am aware

of the ferocity of a lose spring, so am trying to avoid experimental attempts.

Any suggestions welcome!

[Hank R1200RT]

I have not done this with BMW springs, but the following works with other brands. Fit one end of the spring in a vise. Apply pressure to one side of the spring. Insert pennies between the coils. Repeat for other side. Spring should now be longer and easier to install. When you put the bike on the center stand, the pennies should fall out. Nickels and quarters may also work. Good luck.

[dirtrider]

Morning temesvar

 

The coin in the spring mentioned above works pretty

good on single springs but unfortunately the BMW

center stand uses a double spring (spring within

a spring) so the coin thing can't be used on the

inner spring.

 

There are a few ways to re-install those center

stand double springs--

 

If the bike is up on a motorcycle hoist I can usually

use a wire loop with a pair of vise grips snapped

on the wire loop to pull first the inner spring into

place then pull the outer spring into place

(probably be very difficult doing this on the ground)

 

OR-- you can hook the springs up before installing

the pivot bolt then use a ratchet strap to pull on

the center stand until the pivot bolt goes in (this

is the BMW book way)

 

[Paul De]

No matter the technique used, the safety nerd in me would add to wear safety glasses.

 

The not so safety nerd in me has used this approach, but I am not sure if there is clearance for this, I have a bad habit to use a robust Phillips screwdriver as a lever with one of the v slots straddling the tab you want to connect the spring to. The down side is ther is the potential for a flying spring. It works great on installing drum brake springs...like anyone does that anymore!

[dirtrider]

No matter the technique used, the safety nerd in me would add to wear safety glasses.

 

The not so safety nerd in me has used this approach, but I am not sure if there is clearance for this, I have a bad habit to use a robust Phillips screwdriver as a lever with one of the v slots straddling the tab you want to connect the spring to. The down side is ther is the potential for a flying spring. It works great on installing drum brake springs...like anyone does that anymore!

 

Morning Paul De

 

Unfortunately the 1200RT doesn't have a tab it has a rounded welded wire loop that

the spring hooks into. Even if the screwdriver would somehow hold onto the smooth

loop I can't see any way that the screwdriver could pull the spring(s) far enough past

the large loop to allow the spring ends to both hook over it. Plus there is a spring

within a spring that both have to hook onto the wire loop.

Edited February 13, 2017 by dirtrider

[lkraus]

There are a few ways to re-install those center

stand double springs--

...

 

OR-- you can hook the springs up before installing

the pivot bolt then use a ratchet strap to pull on

the center stand until the pivot bolt goes in (this

is the BMW book way)

 

I like that method because it does not require the special tools shown by my RepROM.

 

A couple questions:

How exactly does the ratchet strap connect on the FD end?

 

Am I correct in thinking the exhaust must be removed for access to the center stand pivot screws?

 

[temesvar]

I have not done this with BMW springs, but the following works with other brands. Fit one end of the spring in a vise. Apply pressure to one side of the spring. Insert pennies between the coils. Repeat for other side. Spring should now be longer and easier to install. When you put the bike on the center stand, the pennies should fall out. Nickels and quarters may also work. Good luck.

Thanks Hank! Have to admit, who ever came up with the coin/penny way, had some imagination!! However as D.R.mentioned, this is a double spring, so that method will not work. I may ask the silly question:

why double springs?? Am sure one spring would do, either stronger or longer.The response would be: is a BMW!!

[dirtrider]

D.R.mentioned, this is a double spring, so that method will not work. I may ask the silly question:

why double springs?? Am sure one spring would do, either stronger or longer.The response would be: is a BMW!!

 

Probably 2 major reasons--

 

First being, that you REALLY don't want that stand to drop while riding so 2 springs gives a bit of redundancy. Plus 2 thinner wire springs are usually more durable than a single thick wire spring.

 

Second, to get the same spring tension with only one spring would take much thicker spring wire so the spring would then need to be longer to get enough coils.

 

A possible other advantage is that a spring within a spring gives a bit of self damping so a double spring wouldn't tend to get excited & buzz at certain engine frequencies.

[temesvar]

Morning temesvar

 

The coin in the spring mentioned above works pretty

good on single springs but unfortunately the BMW

center stand uses a double spring (spring within

a spring) so the coin thing can't be used on the

inner spring.

 

There are a few ways to re-install those center

stand double springs--

 

If the bike is up on a motorcycle hoist I can usually

use a wire loop with a pair of vise grips snapped

on the wire loop to pull first the inner spring into

place then pull the outer spring into place

(probably be very difficult doing this on the ground)

 

OR-- you can hook the springs up before installing

the pivot bolt then use a ratchet strap to pull on

the center stand until the pivot bolt goes in (this

is the BMW book way)

 

Thanks again, D.R.

I don't have a hoist, but if it comes to, will try that way, on the floor.

I don't think the ratchet strap would be so easy, since my

2008 RT has two flat head screws going from inside into the

threaded bushings that are not locked. I would need like 3 hands

to get it lined up. I think is better to have the stand installed, and than stretch the spring.

Will try to figure out a gizmo to stretch the spring, hook it into the stand and transfer the

springs to the pin. Will let you know if it works! If not, well...will not! So far i have used a screw

driver(Didn't we all, at some point?) and worked fine, even with the side stand. Mind you, after

20 min of sweating on the floor in freezing conditions, a lot of *#%%*&@ ing, and risking to get hurt.

But with this double spring, no thank you, i will not try it!

[temesvar]

No matter the technique used, the safety nerd in me would add to wear safety glasses.

 

The not so safety nerd in me has used this approach, but I am not sure if there is clearance for this, I have a bad habit to use a robust Phillips screwdriver as a lever with one of the v slots straddling the tab you want to connect the spring to. The down side is there is the potential for a flying spring. It works great on installing drum brake springs...like anyone does that anymore!

Paul, having protective eye wear is not being a nerd. never has! However, a nerd could have a goalie face mask, knee pads,

bullet proof vest, helmet, and a cell phone close by to call for help!!

[dirtrider]

Evening temesvar

 

Well, if you just can't get them on & you don't want to use the strap (that is the BMW

repair manual way).

 

There is another way that I used years ago to put hidden hood springs on cars back in

the 50's.

 

Figure out how much extension that the springs need to go on easily, then find a piece of

steel or stiff wood, then put a couple of bolts in the steel (or wood) that will allow

you to stretch the springs to install length.

 

Next use a tool, or helper, or turn buckle, or ??? to pull & get the spring on those bolts

with the wire loops between the bolts & springs (need about 2" wire loop on each end).

 

Now tape the springs up including the wire ends (completely), then poke a hole in the tape

at top of the spring (you should now have the springs pulled to at least long enough to

install easily)

 

Bet you know where I'm going next?

 

Now fill the taped springs with water & stick in the freezer.

 

Once frozen solid then (quickly) clip the loop wires on the end & pick the ice

out of the spring end hooks.

 

Now just plop the springs on the bracket & center stand, as the ice melts the

springs will self install. If it's cold you can remove the tape before installing,

if warm remove the tape after installation. (work fast & you don't even need

safety glasses)

[dirtrider]

Evening (again) temesvar

 

Another way (maybe)

 

If you can work with the stand in the up position you can probably use a wire loop & stiff screwdriver to pry against the bottom of the center stand foot (use the foot pad as a fulcrum) to pry the spring far enough to get the spring hooks on.

[temesvar]

De good old ICE method!! Now this i want to try, just for the fun of it! Am not sure the ice will be strong enough to hold the spring open..

It is a strong spring! Worth a try! Will be a few days from now, since i have the stand at powder coating.

[BrianM]

I grease my center stand during my winter maintenance - 2011 RT.

 

I remove the exhaust to be able to get at the bolts (I think the GS has the bolts in the opposite direction). Not hard, but a pain.

 

I use a tool for doing car drum brakes to install the springs, hook the springs onto the side stand, use the tool on the frame tab. Not the easiest with 2 springs, but I can get it to work. Next year I will have to give the ratchet strap a try.

[RPG]

I picked one of these up over the winter as I need to remove my centerstand ('04RT) to have it powdercoated. Well, re-powdercoated as the last place didn't prep it.

 

I'm planning on trying it out over the weekend.

 

http://pitposse.com/pomihedusppu.html

 

RPG

 

 

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

I picked one of these up over the winter as I need to remove my centerstand ('04RT) to have it powdercoated. Well, re-powdercoated as the last place didn't prep it.

 

I'm planning on trying it out over the weekend.

 

 

Afternoon Rick

 

I have (had anyhow) a spring tool just about like that one.

 

It will work OK if bike is on a lift but more difficult to use with bike on the floor.

 

I will just caution you to wear a heavy glove & be very careful of what is under or behind your hand.

 

My similar spring tool broke with a spring pulled to near max & when it let loose & I banged my knuckles up pretty bad, I'm just glad there was nothing sharp or jagged behind my hand when it broke. (I now use a wire loop as that is less likely to bend then break off)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 14, 2017 by dirtrider

[temesvar]

I grease my center stand during my winter maintenance - 2011 RT.

 

I remove the exhaust to be able to get at the bolts (I think the GS has the bolts in the opposite direction). Not hard, but a pain.

 

I use a tool for doing car drum brakes to install the springs, hook the springs onto the side stand, use the tool on the frame tab. Not the easiest with 2 springs, but I can get it to work. Next year I will have to give the ratchet strap a try.

 

I have a 2008 RT and had the exhaust removed to have them ceramic coated. Contrary to the parts fiche, the screws on my bike are from inside out.(same with the side stand, different from the parts catalogue.)

I managed to strip the hex on the flat head screw, so had to drill it out. Not easy task, but done with that.Even if the screws came out easy, am not sure if i could take them out without removing the headers.

[temesvar]

I picked one of these up over the winter as I need to remove my centerstand ('04RT) to have it powdercoated. Well, re-powdercoated as the last place didn't prep it.

 

I'm planning on trying it out over the weekend.

 

 

RPG

Neat tool, i hope will help.

As for powder coating, i hear good things about

Custom Concepts Performance

Coatings & Components

19330 Mt. Elliott

Detroit, MI 48234

313.369.2447

CCPcoatings.com

info@ccperformance.com

 

Was gonna have my headers ceramic coated there, but found

someone on this side of the border. Just a suggestion.

[RPG]

I picked one of these up over the winter as I need to remove my centerstand ('04RT) to have it powdercoated. Well, re-powdercoated as the last place didn't prep it.

 

I'm planning on trying it out over the weekend.

 

 

Afternoon Rick

 

I have (had anyhow) a spring tool just about like that one.

 

It will work OK if bike is on a lift but more difficult to use with bike on the floor.

 

I will just caution you to wear a heavy glove & be very careful of what is under or behind your hand.

 

My similar spring tool broke with a spring pulled to near max & when it let loose & I banged my knuckles up pretty bad, I'm just glad there was nothing sharp or jagged behind my hand when it broke. (I now use a wire loop as that is less likely to bend then break off)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good points D.R. Actually, I'm going to use my Condor Work lift to lock the bike in place AND have the it in first gear. I'm also hoping to have a buddy stop by to assist. Heavy gloves will definitely be worn.

[blackbrick]

center stand can be installed or removed while the bike is on the side stand. no heroics with coins, washers, screwdrivers or brake spring pullers needed. install the factory way with one exception. install springs on bike and stand, install the bolt on the spring side first using the strap, THEN install bolt on the non spring side of the stand. this can be done by hand easily. no danger..no drama.

 

at least this is what works for my on my K13.