Oil sight glass

[AnotherLee]

 

Having trouble getting old sight glass out. Maybe previous owner glued it in? Prying just destroyed the metal rim. Plastic long gone.

 

Any suggestions?

[KER]

In the past I have used a self tapping screw through the center of the metal ring, then used pliers or a prybar and wedged it out. Once you get some leverage on it they pop right out; it is pressed into place so it does take some effort to remove it.

Edited February 3, 2017 by KER

[Tri750]

Yeah, you're on the way. The rubber seal sits in a "landing" or a ridge so you can't push it all the way in. Just be careful not to hunk out any aluminum.

Hopefully just some silicone or adhesive and not epoxy.

 

 

[SKYGZR]

Some have a snap ring holding it in place..if there isn't one, punch through w/a screw driver & lever it out??

[flars]

Well, since the plastic is gone now, try heating it up and then prying some more. A lot of heat will probably loosen the rubber seal enough, since they come out so easy with the engine chuffing over.

[AnotherLee]

Thanks to all who responded!

Below: sight glass on its way out. I inserted a 5/8" lag screw in an outer hole.

 

 

Then pried it with the crow bar shown below. It worked great. The slide hammer didn't work at all - apparently the wrong kind of force for this.

 

 

 

Edited February 7, 2017 by TheOtherLee

[Tri750]

The 1200 motor (RT, GS, etc.) is the one with the lock ring.

Not the 1100-1150.

When you buy the glass, it comes with the ring as the same glass fits all the boxers. ( and others)

[Trobinson]

How was installation of the new one?

[AnotherLee]

Tom:

How was installation of the new one?

 

Heh. Since you asked -

 

Sharing negative results so you won't make the same mistakes I made.

 

If you go to MaxBMW fiche for R1150RT and look up oil sight glass under Engine > Engine Housing you find a .pdf from BMW-Motorrad titled "Replacing oil level indicator". Interesting array of special tools. Also found the following:

An oil-level indicator installed with lubricant can work loose.

Use only brake cleaner for the installation process.

Spray sealing faces (1) and (2) generously with brake cleaner.

So not really "installed dry". Probably good advice. Wish I had read this before trying the install.

 

I ran into trouble without any brake cleaner lube and cracked the glass. Truth be told, it was going in crooked and I tried to force it. Was using a 32mm socket and it slipped off center just a little. I couldn't see it (lighting, angle) and was trying to do it by feel. Also should have used a smaller hammer and gone slower.

 

Wound up having it towed to dealer ($100) to install a new one (about $200). Just too awkward for me without a lift. The older I get, the more I'm persuaded to let the pros solve problems I find too difficult. Maybe I could have been successful with another new sight glass for about $50. Maybe it would have been worth it to try. But the physical difficulty convinced me to send this one in. YMMV

[szurszewski]

Bummer - but from what I've read, it's pretty common to break the glass your first time - cheaper to spend $350 total to get it done right then have one not in all the way and break while you're riding!

[dirtrider]

 

I ran into trouble without any brake cleaner lube and cracked the glass. Truth be told, it was going in crooked and I tried to force it. Was using a 32mm socket and it slipped off center just a little. I couldn't see it (lighting, angle) and was trying to do it by feel. Also should have used a smaller hammer and gone slower.

 

Morning Lee

 

Unless you have ALL your ducks in a row, all the tools handy, have practiced the procedure so you have the correct moves memorized, & have all angles figured out then there is still great chance of breaking the new glass lens upon installing.

 

Brake cleaner works good & doesn't leave the sight glass slippery when done but it evaporates so quickly that most first time installers just don't get the thing fully installed before the surfaces dry out.

 

My recommendation is to use glass cleaner for a lube as it works good as a lube, does eventually evaporate from the joint, but gives way more working time before it evaporates.

 

The other thing that I find really helps is: when working without a good solid hi-lift bike lift is to fold an old blanket up a as cushion then get some help & lean the bike all the way over on the R/H side valve cover. That way a person can see in there. Also, laying the bike over to the right gives a much better angle to drive the new sight glass as it is a much more natural working angle when kneeling.

 

I know it is too late for you but this might help the next guy.

 

For the riders that want to carry a spare sight glass-- finding an old new-stock plastic lens sight glass is the way to go (if possible) as those plastic lens sight lens are MUCH/MUCH easier to install on the road if need be. (unfortunately not many of the older plastic lens units around anymore).

[Redman]

...

For the riders that want to carry a spare sight glass--

...

 

I know this thread is more about the replacing of the sight glass, but have seen other mentions of carrying a spare.

So, just how common of a situation is this of needing a replacement? .... any particular model more prone to this....? this preceeded by weeping/leaking first and have time to notice ahead of time, or just go pluchhhhk at any momment...?

 

.

[dirtrider]

...

For the riders that want to carry a spare sight glass--

...

 

I know this thread is more about the replacing of the sight glass, but have seen other mentions of carrying a spare.

So, just how common of a situation is this of needing a replacement? .... any particular model more prone to this....? this preceeded by weeping/leaking first and have time to notice ahead of time, or just go pluchhhhk at any momment...?

 

Afternoon Redman

 

The BMW 1100/1150 engines are the failure prone ones as their sight glass isn't retained or held in with a snap ring like the later 1200 engines are.

 

As for signs of failure or how often?-- Some will seep for a while first, while others will show no signs of leaking then just POP out while riding.

 

The ones that I have seen cause the most problems are when someone warms the engine up before riding & allows it to get too hot sitting still with no cooling air flowing over the engine & exhaust. They usually go about 1/2 miles before the sight glass pops out then another mile or two before the rider notices oil all over the exhaust & their boot.

 

It doesn't happen to all of the 1100/1150's, or even most, but IF it does happen it is definitely a show stopper, especially if miles from civilization. Even worse is one popping out at freeway speeds as all the oil blows out & engine damage can result before the rider notices the oil blowing everywhere.

 

 

[lkchris]

For me, a dealer job for sure.

[PAS]

It would be nice to find an "aftermarket retainer".

[dirtrider]

It would be nice to find an "aftermarket retainer".

 

Afternoon PAS

 

Some riders have drilled small holes in the case then cross wired across the sight glass to hold them in.

 

Others have drilled & tapped 2 or 3 small holes in the case on the rim of the sight glass hole then use small screws with washes to retain the sight glass.

 

[Eckhard Grohe]

How small a screw would one put in?

[dirtrider]

How small a screw would one put in?

 

Afternoon Eckhard

 

About as small as you can work with & tap the hole without fear of breaking the tap off.

 

It doesn't take much to hold them in so a 1.8x.35 or a 2.0x.4 should work. Proper sized washers are the key.

 

I haven't done one in years but just used what I had handy at the time.

[dirtrider]

Afternoon__

 

I haven't ever done it myself but have seen some effective looking safety wire retainers for those 1100/1150 sight glass's.

 

Some of the off-road riders that I used to ride with would safety wire the sight glass in place.

 

Pix link below is borrowed from internet__ I believe rx_mich

 

 

 

[tallman]

...

For the riders that want to carry a spare sight glass--

...

 

I know this thread is more about the replacing of the sight glass, but have seen other mentions of carrying a spare.

So, just how common of a situation is this of needing a replacement? .... any particular model more prone to this....? this preceeded by weeping/leaking first and have time to notice ahead of time, or just go pluchhhhk at any momment...?

 

.

 

Carried a plastic one for xxx,xxx's miles, never needed it. Like an umbrella and rain I guess

Some have used a freeze out plug, not going to look, but a good search should turn up the size.

Easy quick R&R.

Never seen or done myself, but heard it works.

[Jim Moore]

1.5 inch freeze plug. I've thought about how to ensure you have adequate oil after installing a freeze plug. Drain it all the way, then fill 3.75 qts oughta do it. Or fill to the bottom of the sight glass, install plug, then add a quarter quart.

 

Here's my solution btw. I may have a slight leak, or it might be leftover oil from my previous oil pressure sensor leak. I was a little worried about it so I wrapped some wire around the pressure sensor, strung it across the face of the sight glass, then attached it to one of the screws at the front of the engine. Feels pretty secure and only took about ten minutes.

 

https://photos.smugmug.com/2001-R1100S/i-XLMVHDb/0/L/safety%20wired%20sight%20glass-L.jpg

[AndyS]

Hi Jim.

Simple and effective.

[Roger C]

My sight glass was replaced about a year ago by BMW shop. It is the newer window mentioned in an earlier post. Should I be concerned about this one popping loose?

Edited February 10, 2017 by Roger C

[dirtrider]

My sight glass was replaced about a year ago by BMW shop. It is the newer window you mentioned in an earlier post. Should I be concerned about this one popping loose?

 

Morning Roger

 

Yes, No, Maybe So/

 

 

It doesn't happen often on the RT with a properly installed sight glass that isn't cooked by a prolonged engine warm up.

 

I guess I wouldn't worry about it but don't take it for granted either. If you see ANY signs of seeping oil around the sight glass then have it addressed quickly.

 

Also don't overwarm the engine sitting still before riding, especially on high idle.

 

Can it still happen with a glass-lens sight glass? yes.

 

Personally I'm usually more concerned with the 1100/1150 GS as those are (or can be) used off-road so can get stuck in deep sand in 100°f ambient temps.

 

The chance of an 1100/1150 sight glass popping out while riding is low but it can happen. Probably the reason that BMW went with a retaining snap ring on the 1200 hexhead/camhead engines.

[tsuintx]

It doesn't happen often on the RT with a properly installed sight glass that isn't cooked by a prolonged engine warm up.

 

Since I'm a newbie in the world of oilheads, could you elaborate on this why the engine warm up is not good? Is it just when the engine is cold, or should I not let it idle long even after it's warmed up (after a ride, for example)?

 

I usually let mine warm up a couple of minutes while I put my helmet on etc., but I guess I may need to rethink that procedure.

[dirtrider]

It doesn't happen often on the RT with a properly installed sight glass that isn't cooked by a prolonged engine warm up.

 

Since I'm a newbie in the world of oilheads, could you elaborate on this why the engine warm up is not good? Is it just when the engine is cold, or should I not let it idle long even after it's warmed up (after a ride, for example)?

 

I usually let mine warm up a couple of minutes while I put my helmet on etc., but I guess I may need to rethink that procedure.

 

Afternoon tsuintx

 

A short warm up such as putting on riding gear isn't usually a problem. The (possible) problem occurs when the engine is started & allowed to fast idle for extended periods of time. Some riders start the engine & allow to fast idle while they go back inside the house to make a phone call or use the bathroom then get distracted & leave the engine fast idling for half an hour or more.

 

The extended fast idle warm up (with no cooling air moving over engine) gets the exhaust red hot as well as heats the oil & crankcase. This excess heat can allow the sight glass rubber to become soft or distorted or lose some of it's retention.

 

As far as engine warm up goes-- you should read your riders manual about no need of pre-warming the engine before riding.

 

 

[lkraus]

If you are looking, it is not too unusual to find an Oilhead RT fairing with slightly blistered paint or even droopy plastic near the exhaust header pipe. I think this why the Hexhead fairing has a cutout in that area rather than wrapping around the cylinder.

[tsuintx]

Thanks for the info. Nothing too much for me to worry about, then, I guess. I don't do any fast idling. And the PO of my bike put a new one in a couple of years ago, so I'm hoping it'll still last at least for a while.

 

Engine warm up is just an old habit that's hard to kill, I guess. I'll try to learn...

 

[Redman]

.................

 

 

THanks DR.

 

I imiage this has been discussed before and you yourself have said that all before. Thanks Again.

 

.

[Tri750]

1.5 inch freeze plug. I've thought about how to ensure you have adequate oil after installing a freeze plug. Drain it all the way, then fill 3.75 qts oughta do it. Or fill to the bottom of the sight glass, install plug, then add a quarter quart.

 

Here's my solution btw. I may have a slight leak, or it might be leftover oil from my previous oil pressure sensor leak. I was a little worried about it so I wrapped some wire around the pressure sensor, strung it across the face of the sight glass, then attached it to one of the screws at the front of the engine. Feels pretty secure and only took about ten minutes.

 

 

https://photos.smugmug.com/2001-R1100S/i-XLMVHDb/0/L/safety%20wired%20sight%20glass-L.jpg

 

The thing is, you still have the plastic window. The glass one has a non-red, convex center bullseye. It's slightly opaque in the dead center.

For my 10 minutes, I would have the wire tighter than that too. (Over a glass window)

 

The commonly carried freeze plug is the rubber expansion type. It's a rubber bung that expands with a few turns of a wrench to prevent it from popping out. A true freeze plug would be very hard to install and tools would be needed and extra care to not damage the sealing area for the new window.

 

Edited February 11, 2017 by Tri750

[RAUL LLERA]

Hi guys! When trying to replace the oil sight in my R1100R, seems that it was dry and hard to push, and a small lip (1mm thick) shaved out. No oil leak was seen after a 50Km ride, so I want to know your opinions if it is worth replacing again this new/damaged oil sight or this would last some thousands kms at least!

[dirtrider]

2 minutes ago, RAUL LLERA said:

Hi guys! When trying to replace the oil sight in my R1100R, seems that it was dry and hard to push, and a small lip (1mm thick) shaved out. No oil leak was seen after a 50Km ride, so I want to know your opinions if it is worth replacing again this new/damaged oil sight or this would last some thousands kms at least!

 

Evening RAUL LLERA

 

Personally, I sure would replace it, the way it is now it might stay in but it could just as easily pop out so you lose all your oil.

 

Do not install the next one dry, use some brake clean as lube if you work fast or use Windex glass cleaner as lube if you work slower.