Clearwater or Hexezcan -Inquirig minds want to know

[Paul De]

Hi I've been thinking of adding a real horn and maybe some additional running lights to my 2015 RTW. I have read lots about the Clearwater products and as impressive as their products are, they are not a trivial investment. In another thread a member had a link to Hexezcan. It appears with Hexezcan you buy only the can-bus control module and then are free to buy almost any electrical accessory from whomever and connect them to the controller as long as it remains within the rated load limits. Cost for the controller is quite reasonable.

 

With some shopping around, it looks like you could bring the project in for about 30-60 percent of a Clearwater lighting kit. Granted the light modules may not be of equal quality and you may need to figure out your own bracketing, but saving a few C-notes may make sense for me and my stash of nuts, bolts, and odd lot brackets accumulated over the decades.

 

I know folks have had great success with Clearwater, so I am curious to know if folks here have experience Hexezcan, good, bad, or otherwise.

[moshe_levy]

I was asked to test one recently. I had to decline, if only because it would mean I'd have to undo all of my existing accessory wiring, which would easily take a full day's labor. (I have too many accessories to count, plus the entire Clearwater suit, all going through a Rowe PDU.) But I wish I had my hands on another "clean" Wethead to try this device. It looks promising, and allows dimming very similar to Clearwater's setup. Looks like someone else has cracked the CANbus code!

 

-MKL

[EffBee]

I just use one of these from Touratech.

 

Link

 

I don't have a CANbus RT, but I've used it on CANbus RT's. It simply provides a relay-triggered, battery-direct series of 15A main-fused spade connectors. I run a set of HID driving lights, a set of FIAMM dual horns, and a powered tankbag containing my Autocom, XM Radio, V1 and Garmin from it. On my 99RT, I trigger the relay off the power lead to the non-existent radio. On CANbus RT's, I've used the power lead to the fuel pump. Because the load at the fuel pump can vary, the CANbus never detects the small relay load.

[Caddy57]

I installed the Hex Ezecan last fall to add aux. lights (PIAA LED) to 14 RTW. Plan on adding a better horn and additional brake lights once the weather gets warmer. Install was easy and you can change your settings by USB connection to a computer. Output wires from Ezecan are color coded and included quick connects.

[Paul De]

Thanks for the reply Caddy. It sounds like the Hex Ezecan works as advertised.

 

I couldn't find the user manual on their site and was wondering how you access any features when riding. Does it use the left bar Whizzy wheel, or are features adjusted by pushing special button combos (like a Kisan device). Also how do you turn on/off a circuit that would be attached to accessory like running lights?

[Caddy57]

The features you can access while riding are light intensity, with wonder wheel, and aux. lights on and off by pressing/holding turn signal button. There are four circuits, 2-10 amp & 2- 4amp, that you can tailor to your needs with the software. You can change the amp amounts/channel also. For instance, if you have low amp draw LED lights those can be set up on a 4 amp circuit, leaving a 10 amp circuit to power heated gear or large amp horn.

 

http://hexezcan.com/software/ this page explains the software functions, what you can set up and how to make adjustments/changes.

[Limecreek]

Hex EzCan. Much better value, features and flexibility.

[tsp]

I got a Hex ezcan last week and installed it on my '16 RT. I got it before I purchased lights and horn but I did use it to power my Denali D2 driving lights and Skene P3 brake lights. Works for both even though I'm running power through both of their controllers. The P3 is run vi an aux outlet. No issue there but I am running the D2's through the Denali controller that does the half power adjustment. Just for kicks I tried the on/off and dim/bright functions and it worked. Now I want more powerful driving lights to setup with the ezcan. I'm also using the flash on horn feature.

I like the unit a lot. Cleaned up all my wiring a lot. Only tap is my brake light and even that can be eliminated.

 

tsp

 

[LAF]

Been running the EZcan for a few months now. I can not say enough about it. It is really the fuse block everyone needs. It allows you to use any LED driving lights you wish. PIAA or Rigid or any other one you like and choose. Not locked into any brand of LED lights. It allows any rear LED to be a flashing brake light and a deceleration light just connecting plus and minus to the 1 4A channel. You can run 2 sets of LED driving lights, 1 off each 10A channel, and set defaults how they come on when light and dark outside. Strobe when on the horn just plain works. Cutting the driving light (lights) when your turn signal goes on that side is way cool. No washing out your turn signal with your driving lights. 4 ways are cool as it alternates your amber and the driving lights and that is a pretty distinct pattern. Strobe when you pull flash to pass three times is cool and will get the attention of someone if you need to. Using the turn signal cancel and the wonder wheel to control certain functions is intuitive and becomes second nature very quickly.

 

I have to say the ezCAN is all that and a bag of chips with salsa too!

[Paul De]

Thanks for all the input.

 

As I read the posts here and explored their website in greater detail, it does look like all that and a bag of chips. I just got off the farkel schneid and ordered the EZcan from Twisted Throttle today. With the dollars I didn't spend on the Clearwater unit I couldn't resist $175 for a left over Interphone F4XT twin pack as well.

 

With my birthday coming next month the Mrs is getting a wish list of various LED lights and a real honking horn to replace that POS toy they put on at the factory. I am looking forward to a spring launch of a newly farkeled RT!

[Tactical 1]

According to the folks at Clearwater, the ezcan is not compatible with the dimming feature of their lights and, if used to dim, will cause premature light failure.

 

If you are wanting to install Clearwater lights, I would suggest contacting them first regarding using the ezcan.

 

I've sent a note to hexcode with Clearwaters caution on using the ezcan w/Clearwater lights

[Paul De]

Thanks for the heads up. I'll likely go a different driection than Clearwater. Lots of choices out there and some of it good quality too. But I'll be sure to verify comparability based on what you shared. Looking at load capabilities of EZcan circuits, it looks like it can handle old school halogen which wouldn't be so fussy about dimming

[LAF]

And that is the point, you can run ANY lights you want. You are not locked into a 1000.00 pair of lights! That is just insane to spend on lights.

 

Again I do not get the dimming? If you have driving lights and aim them correctly why would you want to dim them?

 

Way too much made over dimming something that does not need dimmed.

 

Maybe buy the lights that fit your needs? Maybe you do not need 8000 lumens a side for lights to see where you are going?

 

And halogen while not as energy efficient sure do get the job done and are a lot cheaper then most quality LED lights.

 

If my 300 dollar Rigid Industries D2's ever go out I will look at halogen myself.

[Gene#3]

As has been said many times before... dimming is useful for conspicuity and/or fog light use. I do this on low beam with yellow filters. High setting is for use with High beams. Nuff said.

[Paul De]

Well with the ezCAN dongle arriving this week I have gone on a farkel hunt.

 

First up is the Stebel Nautilus Compact Air Horn. I put one of these on my '99 RT and changed the please cut me off Meep sound to YO-LTFO, a$$hxxx. Anyway the ezCAN high current circuit is rated at 10A continuous with a surge capability of 25A for 20 seconds. Stebel rates this horn for absorbed current at less than 18A at 12V (what ever that means). I'm assuming absorbed current is some function of peak and continues draw. In any case I sent a Q off to HEX Microsystems to ask if I can wire the horn directly to a high power circuit, or is a relay advisable. I'll let you all know what they advise.

 

I know I will add a second brake light directly on the bike light to take advantage of one of the flashing options (I do not always ride with the monster 49 liter top box so I often loose that brake light). I have to decide on a good one. Choices, Choices.

 

I still haven't begun to decided on the accessory driving lights. So the whole dim ability thing is a TBD feature based on type and where I mount them. Flashing with the horn is a interesting feature though.

[LAF]

I know you said 'Nuff said but what does dimming do to make you conspicuous?

 

I can tell you for a fact nothing is more conspicuous then my D2's on strobe mode. All within a push of the horn, or pull of the flash to pass trigger in a 3 burst pull. Has to be faster using muscle memory then trying to spin a rheostat or the wonder wheel.

 

A pull of your high beam will also make you pretty conspicuous.

 

I also have yellow filters for my driving lights but I do not dim them to use them. And when the fog clears I pop them off and store them in my side case.

 

Each to their own I say and there is no best, just what suites you the best for your needs.

 

 

 

 

[LAF]

If it was me I would run that hog to a relay and direct to battery.

 

18A is pretty serious draw and the two channels on the ezCAN can only take 10A on each side or split like 15 and 5 on those channels. The Aux channels are a strait 4A no way to divide it up between the channels.

 

And I am just asking, but where are you mounting that hog at?

 

EDIT: 18A at 12V is 216 watts.

Edited January 18, 2017 by LAF

[Paul De]

It mounts in the same place as the original horn between the fork stanchions. I did the same on my '99 and never had a problem with wheel travel clearance.

 

Nice video of the install. In this video the original horn circuit was used to drive the low current side of the relay.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Mounting+an+air+horn+on+2015+R1200RT&biw=1680&bih=920&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjdp9Sx98nRAhUq5oMKHTWLAscQsAQIGQ#imgdii=VuafJLI5TmM0mM%3A%3BVuafJLI5TmM0mM%3A%3B-WA6Q9IB7Vz9fM%3A&imgrc=VuafJLI5TmM0mM%3A

 

[Paul De]

OK so I got a response from Matt at Twisted Throttle on if you can attach an air horn like the Denali Soundbomb, or similar Stebel Nautilus, without using a relay.

 

Here is his reply

 

"Hi Paul,

You can wire the Soundbomb direct to the EZcam's high-current output without any need for a relay. The SoundBomb does have a peak amp draw of around 20A... for the instant the compressor motor is spooling up. Once the motor is turning, the amperage drops considerably to a level that the EZcan high-current output can manage even for a prolonged period. (I doubt that you would ever encounter a situation where you would need to have the horn sounding continually for longer than 25 seconds but I would be more concerned with the horn overheating) Please let us know if you have any other inquiries!

 

Best regards,

Matt"

 

Makes sense because the ezCAN has its own fused lead to the battery making it a very fancy Farkel inducing relay

 

[Stafford123]

You dim because at full power the Clearwater lights, or other high-output LED lights, are too bright if you have oncoming traffic. For example, during the day my Clearwaters are at 30 percent power normally, but I can increase to 100 percent by flashing the high beams. At night, I am at 20 percent on low-beams and 100 percent on high. This allows me to use them with on-coming traffic without blinding them, but have full power on high beam.

 

The last thing I need to do is blind oncoming traffic, making it more likely they will wander in their lane. Just my two cents.

[LAF]

If I were you I would ask the maker at HEX about the ezCAN. They are very responsive to e-mail inquires.

[Paul De]

Not trying to throw shade on Hex but after 4 days of radio silence I asked their reseller, Twisted Throttle, and got a response in 24 hrs. To be fair, maybe I am being impatient.

 

Stepping back to the question I think I am OK. The ezCAN high current circuits are rated for 10A continuous and 25A peak for 20 seconds, before being timed out, and gets the power for the circuits from a direct connection to the battery which is fused at 30A. Accepting that the horn draws a peak of 20A on compressor spin-up and then settles below that for continuous operation and a typical horn blast is not more than a few seconds, it all falls into the system specification... Besides, if I lay on the horn for more than 20 seconds, I deserve to get timed out

[LAF]

Well I am sorry they did not reply, not my experience but who knows what their schedule is? They are in South Africa.

 

I am rooting for you for sure. I looked at the install you posted and it looks like for sure it will go into that hole.

 

And you are right if it times out after that time you should be by the problem or in a problem where the horn wont matter :-)

 

[RTinNC]

I know you said 'Nuff said but what does dimming do to make you conspicuous?

 

I can tell you for a fact nothing is more conspicuous then my D2's on strobe mode. All within a push of the horn, or pull of the flash to pass trigger in a 3 burst pull. Has to be faster using muscle memory then trying to spin a rheostat or the wonder wheel.

 

A pull of your high beam will also make you pretty conspicuous.

 

I also have yellow filters for my driving lights but I do not dim them to use them. And when the fog clears I pop them off and store them in my side case.

 

Each to their own I say and there is no best, just what suites you the best for your needs.

 

 

 

 

Just curious what lights with Yellow filters are you running? I loved my yellow motolights but baulk at $700 for Clearwaters. I too have the D2's and love them but want yellows as well.

 

Thanks

[JR356]

http://www.rigidindustries.com/light-covers/20193

 

Yellow covers for your D series lights

 

 

JR356

[LAF]

I have the snap on ones from Amazon. Like 8 something each. If you search for D2 yellow covers it should come up.

 

They work great in the fog and I was playing with them yesterday as we have been socked in with fog these last few days.

[alexp]

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I have the clearwater set and very happy with them.

[Mike]

I've got Clearwater Darlas and a Billie brake light. The integration of these products and the quality are both fantastic. However, if I were doing it now I'd be tempted to try the ezCAN.

[Tony S]

Greetings.

 

I recently installed a set of ILIUM works engine bars - along with a pair of Denali D4 LED lights - all hooked up to the HexEzcan. Very simple to install and configure. Now able to adjust the brightness of the LED lights by the wonderwheel, and have got it set to strobe the LED lights when the horn is pressed - which has come in most useful when trying to alert a bemused motorist to one's presence! It is a very good piece of kit.

[RTinNC]

Got pictures??

[JR356]

Good to hear about the function with the D4's,I have them on my GSA and have the Hex ready to install.Just have to get some free time to re wire my current setup and add Skene Photon Blasters to the front and a better horn.

 

JR356

[Tony S]

Certainly!

 

 

 

[Paul De]

I see you got the blue RT, which I found to be the fastest color of all the waterheads :smirk:

 

I don't have engine bars, and don't plan on going that way, so I am still struggling with driving light options....seems there is precious little room to place substantial lights on the front of the RT without the engine bars. Need figure out little & effective lights. I was wondering if I could mount something to the top bolt of the valve cover. With the ezCAN I can go either LED or Halogen and have no particular preference. I am leaning toward a fog or flood beam pattern.

 

Looked at, PIAAs, Hellas, Denali, no-name stuff from China, just have not pulled the trigger yet. I'm stalled at the moment and riding season is coming faster than the weather suggests here in the upper Midwest. So, ideas or sharing actual installs are appreciated.

[AndyS]

If you want small but effective lights I can recommend the wonderful but overpriced Clearwater Darla's. They are rubbish as driving lights as they are too bright (even when fully dimmed)and dazzle, but at night for Main (high) beam augmentation they are stunning.

[TJRL]

I see you got the blue RT, which I found to be the fastest color of all the waterheads :smirk:

 

... seems there is precious little room to place substantial lights on the front of the RT without the engine bars. Need figure out little & effective lights.

 

Motolights do a very neat calliper mounting option and they are good lights. Or try getting a set of BMW OME brackets, the one that are used when you get the BMW additional driving lights as an option.

[StuGotz]

If you want small but effective lights I can recommend the wonderful but overpriced Clearwater Darla's. They are rubbish as driving lights as they are too bright (even when fully dimmed)and dazzle, but at night for Main (high) beam augmentation they are stunning.

 

I use the amber colored covers for day driving lights. Easily removed when I need the full pop at night. These are yellow, but you get the point.

 

https://www.clearwaterlights.com/products/slip-on-covers

 

MB>

[KTM Doug]

On my new GS, the dealer installed "Darlas" and I added the "Billie" tail. They are bright, especially with the yellow covers. I was reluctant to go yellow as a few weeks ago I had a bike approach me in daylight running yellow. I could see it waaaay far away. As it approached, I was nearly blinded and could not look at the bike. I thought whatever they were should be illegal. Maybe they were the 6000 lumen units on high?

 

But I bought the covers for protection and tried the yellow. They seemed to amplify the brightness but that can't happen. Different color spectrum I guess. I had the lights on 30% when clear and went down to 10% with yellow. My friend and I went for a ride. He said they were really bright on 10% and showed up really well.

 

As to the "Billie" tail, it is set on 10% for tail and I have it on I think 30% for stop. At 10% it is brighter than the factory LED tail and the stop is much brighter. If I run up the percent on tail, it looks like you are driving with the brake light on. My friend following me says it looks good.

 

Anyway, the "Clearwaters" are BRIGHT

[RTinNC]

On my new GS, the dealer installed "Darlas" and I added the "Billie" tail. They are bright, especially with the yellow covers. I was reluctant to go yellow as a few weeks ago I had a bike approach me in daylight running yellow. I could see it waaaay far away. As it approached, I was nearly blinded and could not look at the bike. I thought whatever they were should be illegal. Maybe they were the 6000 lumen units on high?

 

But I bought the covers for protection and tried the yellow. They seemed to amplify the brightness but that can't happen. Different color spectrum I guess. I had the lights on 30% when clear and went down to 10% with yellow. My friend and I went for a ride. He said they were really bright on 10% and showed up really well.

 

As to the "Billie" tail, it is set on 10% for tail and I have it on I think 30% for stop. At 10% it is brighter than the factory LED tail and the stop is much brighter. If I run up the percent on tail, it looks like you are driving with the brake light on. My friend following me says it looks good.

 

Anyway, the "Clearwaters" are BRIGHT

 

IMHO the yellow or amber lights are more noticeable in daytime. I ran Amber Motolights for a long time before I went to LEDs. Not looking for an amber / yellow option for my new RT. Was hoping to not have to spend $500+ but everyone gives the Clearwaters high fives.

[Paul De]

Well the project is getting some focus. I won an eBay auction of a NIB set of Hella Optilux 1002s (very similar to PIAA X1100). Old school halogen so no dimming issue to worry about.

 

So far still doing this for not too much cash

ezCAN $169

Hella lights $29 (doood soaked me on shipping $19)

Steebel horn $ 29

Need to figure out extra tail light yet

I am thinking on making my own brackets which should keep the whole project under $300 for lights front / rear and horn