Light Bulbs Source

[RPG]

Is there a known source for the Toshiba A14v3W bulbs found in the indicator lights for a 2004 R115RT?

 

There's 10 of them for the turn signal's oil pressure alternator, neutral indicator, etc., and that's what it says on the glass. (Toshiba A14v3w bulb)

 

I assume they're 3 watts.

 

thanks,

 

RPG

[lkraus]

Like these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOSHIBA-V2-V-2-size-T6-5-Grey-A14V3W-bulb-Lot-of-4-Toyota-Honda-cluster-bulb-/261669813920

[Lowndes]

You might try these guys. I've been very pleased with them. Call or email.

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/instrument-cluster-gauge/

[Lowndes]

Larry,

 

After looking at the pic of the "Toshiba A14v3w bulb", I'd bet it is a 194 wedge bulb in that plastic holder. Try pulling on the bulb, see if it doesn't pop out. Then you can re-use the base and select from a slew of bulbs, LED's and incandescent.

 

The guys at Superbright could advise you on the color and watts/lumens that would be best for your needs. I'd want more lumens on warning lights, maybe less for gauge illumination, not sure.

Edited December 10, 2016 by Lowndes

[Guest Kakugo]

If you have a Honda, Toyota or Subaru dealership which has been in business for twenty years or more nearby, chances are they can help you.

Those are standard items on older Japanese cars and Honda motorcycles, I've replaced a lot of them in the latter.

They are surely easier to come by than those silly bulbs Suzuki used in instrument clusters back in the 90's...

[RPG]

Thanks for the advice y'all.

 

RPG

[RPG]

These appear to be the right ones.

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/74-led-bulb-1-smd-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/227/7256

 

RPG

[Lowndes]

RPG, those are #74, but they are 'wedge" bulbs, might fit a 194 socket. Then you have to choose the color of light you want.

 

You might call superbright just to be sure you get the ones that work best fo you.

[RPG]

These seem to be the right ones.

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo...it-car/227/7256

 

RPG

 

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Rick

 

Do not install an LED or other higher resistance non-stock generator light bulb. Your alternator needs at least the stock bulb resistance to properly initiate the alternator charging. (in fact installing a slightly lower resistance bulb than stock will bring the alternator charging on at an earlier RPM after starting)

 

 

[RPG]

Afternoon Rick

 

Do not install an LED or other higher resistance non-stock generator light bulb. Your alternator needs at least the stock bulb resistance to properly initiate the alternator charging. (in fact installing a slightly lower resistance bulb than stock will bring the alternator charging on at an earlier RPM after starting)

 

 

Afternoon D.R.,

 

thanks for the tip. I'm aware of that due to the same issue with Airhead's and the GEN light. So I only changed the bulbs in the speedo and tach to LED's. I'm still running regular old incandescent bulbs in the indicator lights.

 

Appreciate it,

 

RPG

[Tycham]

I recently changed all of my bulbs to LED. Do you have a link to the thread that mentions charging output relying on sensing the resistance from anything? Have you put a voltmeter and ammeter in the charging circuit to verify when the alternator comes on?

 

[dirtrider]

I recently changed all of my bulbs to LED. Do you have a link to the thread that mentions charging output relying on sensing the resistance from anything? Have you put a voltmeter and ammeter in the charging circuit to verify when the alternator comes on?

 

Afternoon Tycham

 

Try these old links-- pretty well explains the need for proper generator light resistance.

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=957744&Searchpage=1&Main=87099&Words=charging&Search=true#Post957744

 

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=817515&page=1

[Stevie Ray]

I am putting a 1996 R1100RS back on the road after several(13) years. After new fluids and a new fuel pump, the bike started and ran like new. During some of my cleaning and maintenance process, the alternator light came on. It's bright at idle and will dim slightly with increased rpm. The only change of note is that I disconnected the abs and removed the abs pump and the control module. I'm not sure if that's when the light came on but now I have a charging issue. I am only getting about an 8 volt reading when I probe the blue exciter wire to the alternator. If I apply 12 volts to that wire, the charging voltage will slowly increase. I had pulled the abs bulbs, but after reading several threads regarding the importance of bulbs and their voltages, I replaced them with no improvement. What's next?

[dirtrider]

I am putting a 1996 R1100RS back on the road after several(13) years. After new fluids and a new fuel pump, the bike started and ran like new. During some of my cleaning and maintenance process, the alternator light came on. It's bright at idle and will dim slightly with increased rpm. The only change of note is that I disconnected the abs and removed the abs pump and the control module. I'm not sure if that's when the light came on but now I have a charging issue. I am only getting about an 8 volt reading when I probe the blue exciter wire to the alternator. If I apply 12 volts to that wire, the charging voltage will slowly increase. I had pulled the abs bulbs, but after reading several threads regarding the importance of bulbs and their voltages, I replaced them with no improvement. What's next?

 

Evening Stevie Ray

 

 

Once you ran a full 12v to the blue wire that should have magnetized the alternator rotor enough so that it should start charging even without the blue wire connected if the engine RPM's are raised enough so I don't think the generator light itself (or that circuit) is the issue.

 

Have you verified that the large red wire on the back of the alternator has full continuity to the battery (+) post? (if that is open or has resistance you won't get charging amps to the battery).

 

With the generator light ON that usually points to no (or low) alternator output. Could be from oxidized rotor slip rings if the bike sat for a long time.

 

Or a voltage regulator issue.

 

Or a slipping alternator belt.

 

If the red wire on back of alternator is solidly connected to the battery (+) post the alternator belt is not slipping then your next move is probably to remove the alternator & have it's output tested at a proper alternator shop (or maybe even a local auto parts store)

 

 

[Stevie Ray]

Thanks. I'll check the wire to the battery in the morning along with the belt. This is my first BMW and I've heard that the R1100RS is a good bike. With only 14,000 miles on it, I'm hoping that it won't take too much to get it road ready.

[Stevie Ray]

Couldn't wait. Went back outside and checked the wiring-all ok and tight. The belt looked good, although I might change it now that it's off. I pulled the alternator and plan to take it to AutoZone tomorrow for testing.