Spring tool

[RPG]

Onto phase 2 of my centerstand project for my 2004 RT. It was looking ratty and chipped up last fall so I managed to remove it and have it powder coated by a local shop. The most fun of the whole project was removing the two part spring apparatus, using thin washers, dimes, herculean effort on sets of vice grips, lots of swearing, tool throwing, etc.

 

So as soon as the powdercoated centerstand was installed and within a week, the paint started flaking off. So I rode all summer and now get to do it all over again, this time with a better powdercoater.

 

I am hoping someone can recommend a better tool for spreading the springs for easier removal installation.

 

thanks,

 

RPG

[AnotherLee]

Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.

-Archimedes

 

I used a crowbar and a block of wood. Worked pretty well, thanks to Archimedes.

[dave_a]

Head down to a metric bike shop and check out the Motion-Pro DIY tool rack. There's usually a T-handle spring tool hanging there.

 

Some OEM's offer less expensive "special tools" (for tech/mechanic use). I got my "push or pull" spring tool from a BRP (Sea/Ski/Canam)dealer for under $10 a few years ago. It'll have to ordered most likely.

 

Fear no spring and bleed no more!

Dave

[RPG]

thanks guys. I found one here.

 

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4758/i/msr-heavy-duty-spring-hook

 

rpg

[Guest Kakugo]

thanks guys. I found one here.

 

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4758/i/msr-heavy-duty-spring-hook

 

rpg

 

The only bit of advice I can give to you is to make sure your spring tool is made from a slightly better alloy than the last two I bought off eBay, both of which became irreparably "bent" while dealing with ordinary springs, meaning those used on some aftermarket exhausts, which are nowhere near as stiff as those used on centerstands.

[RPG]

thanks guys. I found one here.

 

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4758/i/msr-heavy-duty-spring-hook

 

rpg

 

The only bit of advice I can give to you is to make sure your spring tool is made from a slightly better alloy than the last two I bought off eBay, both of which became irreparably "bent" while dealing with ordinary springs, meaning those used on some aftermarket exhausts, which are nowhere near as stiff as those used on centerstands.

 

Duly noted and thanks. I think I'll know right away how strong these are after the first attempt.

 

rpg

[CaptainKcorb]

Sorry to hear of both your powdercoating and spring fitment issues. One thought from having an number of machines powdercoated as part of the restoration process is; If they aren't planning on sand or bead blasting before powder coating, take a pass on them. (the exception is very thin parts like rusted fenders which have to be pickled). Also ask how they handle plugging clearance holes and protecting threaded parts. If they give you a dumb look, move on.

 

Powder coating never flakes in my experience, unless they fail in preparation or don't bake the powder at the appropriate temperature and time. Usually the problem is filing it out of places it shouldn't be. It's not rocket science, merely a simple manufacturing process. Good powder coaters are reasonably large operations, usually handling racking and other mass produced items. If they're not in a facility over 20,000 Sq ft I'd be looking closely at what they are actually doing there. Like chroming and cadmium plating, it can be done in a small shop but usually not well.

 

On the spring tool part of your challenges, something I didn't see mentioned amid the good advice is the old trick of putting coins or other spacers in between the spring coils. It's easy, bend the spring one way, opening a space between each coil, put in a penny between each coil, bend it the other way, put in coins on that side. I don't have a mental image of the RT center stand springs but it's worked for me on many springs, including center stands, side stands, drum brake shoe springs, etc. It's surprising how much a spring can be lengthened this way, to the point where you may not need a puller at all. Fit it in place, remove the coins, rock and roll. It doesn't have to be coins, it can be anything you have in convenient quantity and isn't to big to allow fitment of the spring. As a bonus it removes (most of) the potential of bleeding from the process.

 

Good luck.

[RPG]

Sorry to hear of both your powdercoating and spring fitment issues. One thought from having an number of machines powdercoated as part of the restoration process is; If they aren't planning on sand or bead blasting before powder coating, take a pass on them. (the exception is very thin parts like rusted fenders which have to be pickled). Also ask how they handle plugging clearance holes and protecting threaded parts. If they give you a dumb look, move on.

 

Powder coating never flakes in my experience, unless they fail in preparation or don't bake the powder at the appropriate temperature and time. Usually the problem is filing it out of places it shouldn't be. It's not rocket science, merely a simple manufacturing process. Good powder coaters are reasonably large operations, usually handling racking and other mass produced items. If they're not in a facility over 20,000 Sq ft I'd be looking closely at what they are actually doing there. Like chroming and cadmium plating, it can be done in a small shop but usually not well.

 

On the spring tool part of your challenges, something I didn't see mentioned amid the good advice is the old trick of putting coins or other spacers in between the spring coils. It's easy, bend the spring one way, opening a space between each coil, put in a penny between each coil, bend it the other way, put in coins on that side. I don't have a mental image of the RT center stand springs but it's worked for me on many springs, including center stands, side stands, drum brake shoe springs, etc. It's surprising how much a spring can be lengthened this way, to the point where you may not need a puller at all. Fit it in place, remove the coins, rock and roll. It doesn't have to be coins, it can be anything you have in convenient quantity and isn't to big to allow fitment of the spring. As a bonus it removes (most of) the potential of bleeding from the process.

 

Good luck.

 

hey Captain,

 

The powdercoater in this instance did my sidestand as well and it came out great. And it's held up at least through last summer. But it wasn't in the same beat-up shape as the centerstand and it's in a more protected location too.

 

This powedercoater just started as their main business is bead blasting (which they're very good at). I had them do the mower deck on a used JD lawn tractor at the same time and it too held up well this summer. So my guess is, the centerstand wasn't prepped.

 

I have another powdercoater that's done some work on a few other bike restorations I've done in the past (they're expensive but meticulous) so I'll have them re-do it.

 

Centerstand springs:

I decided to buy two spring tools and double them up for added grip. The pennie/dimes trick didn't work for me last winter. I did manage to get a few of them inserted but the outside of the double spring setup on the stock spring is just a bit thick and it didn't lengthen the spring enough for me to remove it.

 

I'll post results here (good or bad)

 

thanks,

 

RPG

[dan cata]

I found out I can use another spring just like the one on the center-stand and put them in place. It gives you enough grip to pull by bear hand

 

Dan.