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Sidestand faulty switch 1100 RTP


rcassin

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Forgive my rookie question. I am pretty sure that my sidestand switch it not working. I want to go around it to make sure. I found this old post and just want to know when you use the term "JUMP" does that also mean just splice the wires together in this example? The sentence in bold. The fuel pump does work, I tested when i replaced the fuel filter, the bike does crank, put pump not working now.

 

First thing-- with bike on center stand & in "neutral" & "kill switch on", turn the key on then watch the RID & gas gauge as you operate the side stand. (does the RID change?--if so the side stand switch is probably OK)

 

If no go per above find the green/yellow wire at the side stand switch & jump that to the green/red wire at the side stand switch. (this bypasses the side stand switch)

Is neutral light on? If not maybe a bad neutral switch as well as a failed clutch switch. If you suspect this remove the starter relay (in fuse box) then--MAKE SURE BIKE IS IN NEUTRAL--then jump terminal 30 to terminal 87 in the relay socket with a jumper wire (that will by pass ALL starting inhibitors & operate starter). Does it crank over now???

 

Thanks, Rob

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Morning Rob

 

The term JUMP is short for, or mechanic's talk for, jumper (as in using a jumper wire, or cutting the wires & stripping the insulation back & twisting the wire strands together).

 

If you can access the side stand connector you can use a wire pushed into the connector to short the bike side wires together.

 

Or, if you are sure (or pretty sure) that the side stand switch is bad then you can just cut the wires at the side stand switch, strip the insulation back a short ways then twist the bare ends together (if that cures the problem then install a new side stand switch or solder the twisted wires together, then cover with heat shrink tubing or waterproof tape).

 

 

 

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Bear in mind the RT-P will have a sub harness that allows the bike to run while the side stand is down while the civilian model will not.

The RT-P will die when put in gear when the stand is down.

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Dirtrider, if I understand this correctly,, no more power will enter the switch????Thanks, Rob

 

Morning rcassin

 

That depends on--

 

If you cut the wires & twist them together than no power will enter the switch.

 

If you unplug the switch connector then use a jumper wire across the bike harness side of the connector then no power will enter the switch.

 

If you leave the wires connected but just use a jumper wire across the connector then power will still enter the switch. (in this condition the switch will not do anything but will still have power to it)

 

 

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Afternoon rcassin

 

Well, that more than likely points to --

 

A bad pump.

 

An incorrectly wired pump.

 

A faulty pump ground.

 

No 12v volts going to pump even with relay jumpered.

 

So use a 12v test light or voltmeter & verify that the pump is getting 12v with relay jumped. (check right at pump terminal)

 

Verify that the ground side of pump is in fact going to chassis ground.(check right at pump terminal)

 

 

If that pump has a 12v supply & good ground then the pump is either bound up or failed.

 

I have seen a number of old 1100/1150 bikes where there was an open in the pump pass through solder joint (no continuity through pump pass through plate)

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Afternoon rcassin

 

I guess I should also mention the obvious but have you checked fuse #6 to make sure it is good & has continuity? (not just eyeball the fuse but actually removed & tested it)

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Hi DR... When you say pump terminal, do you mean take the pump out of the tank and check it right on the pump? or do you mean the pump plug by the right side if the tank? Thanks, Rob

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Hi DR... When you say pump terminal, do you mean take the pump out of the tank and check it right on the pump? or do you mean the pump plug by the right side if the tank?

 

Morning Rob

 

Start by checking at the pump connector outside the tank, if you have power & ground there you will THEN have to check right the pump motor itself.

 

If you DON'T have power at the tank connector outside the tank then you probably have an external issue (like broken wire, or bad relay connection, or no B+ power to the relay, etc).

 

If you have an external power or ground issue then you FIRST need to find & repair that, then check for pump running before going inside the tank.

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Hi DR, I stand corrected. In the day light I did jump the pump relay and it is working! There is no gas in the tank, is there some sort of safety that does not allow the pump to work with no gas? I know i can burn it out with no fuel? Thanks, again

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Hi DR, I stand corrected. In the day light I did jump the pump relay and it is working! There is no gas in the tank, is there some sort of safety that does not allow the pump to work with no gas? I know i can burn it out with no fuel? Thanks, again

 

Morning rcassin

 

No real Low-Fuel safety --BUT, the pump only runs for about 2 seconds at key on then won't run again until the engine is cranking over, or actually running. So basically no fuel in the tank = no engine running & no engine running = no fuel pump running.

 

Yes, you can burn up an in-tank fuel pump quickly if running it without fuel to cool the pump & lubricate the impeller.

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Hi DR.. Right i did know the pump would run only 2 seconds, but it should still run those 2 seconds with no fuel in the tank?? Correct??? Thanks again, Rob

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Hi DR.. Right i did know the pump would run only 2 seconds, but it should still run those 2 seconds with no fuel in the tank?? Correct???

 

Afternoon Rob

 

Correct.

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