2004 R1150RT Integrated ABS system refill

[Rangioran]

Hi there,

 

As the brakes (apart from needing new pads) were fine when I bought the R1150RT a couple of months back, but knowing that the rubber hoses are prone to degeneration, I decided to fit Goodrige braided hose, new pistons and seals on front callipers and re-fill the entire system with new DOT4.

I drained away the old fluid (after emptying both front and rear reservoirs) using a vacuum pump - now beginning to question if that was the bast method?

So, present situation is -

 

New hoses fitted front and back with new copper crush washers on each junction and torqued as per manual.

New pistons and seals on both front callipers.

ABS charging funnel (Servo Assist Brake BBABS3FUNNEL 1 34.95

Bleed/Flush Funnel Tool) arrives tomorrow.

 

I'm planning on following the instructions for removing old fluid from ABS using turkey baster, funnel refill ABS, refill both front and rear reservoirs, then couple up bleed tube to front left hand bleed nipple and using the servo pump fluid through (always keeping the reservoir full) until it's clean and bubble free. Then move to front right hand side, followed by rear.

 

Any suggestions?

[Cap]

Any suggestions?

 

I just did the same procedure on my recently new-to-me 2004 R1150RT. I had one problem, and one caution. First the caution: when you are bleeding the handlebar circuits for the brake and clutch, beware that when you first squeeze the lever, you may squirt brake fluid onto your windscreen and dashboard. That first movement sends a pulse of fluid upwards, and if you remember to squeeze gently you can avoid it.

 

The only problem that I encountered following the instructions posted here and elsewhere was with the "speed bleeders." I purchased 4 speed bleeders, one for each caliper nipple, and one for the clutch. The brake bleeders did not work for me. I researched it, and filed a flat on the tip of one of them, with no effect. I ended up re-installing the original bleeder nipples, and I did the dance: loosen, squeeze, tighten, release. No big deal, but not what I was hoping for. I made contact with tech support at Speed Bleeder and asked for help. They responded with "Gee, that's odd" and refunded my money. I am not impressed. Meanwhile, the speed bleeder for the clutch circuit worked fine.

 

If anyone has some insights why the speed bleeders didn't work, I would love to hear their thoughts.

 

Cap

 

 

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Rangioran

 

 

Not much to it & there are a lot of how-to's on bleeding the BMW I-ABS system

 

A caution: if using a turkey baster or other device to empty the ABS controller reservoir be very careful to not damage the low fluid sensors inside the reservoir.

 

On bleeding the front handlebar master cylinder-- As mentioned above, it can/will squirt fluid when squeezing the lever so I usually just toss a (clean) utility knife (carpet knife) blade into the bottom of the fluid reservoir. That allows good fluid flow but prevents the up-squirt at lever squeeze. Some use a US quarter (25 cent) but I like the knife blade better as it can be easily removed with magnet when done.

 

One more caution: be sure to cover the dash & all Tupperware plastic with something fluid proof (a couple of plastic garbage bags work good)-- Brake fluid is a great paint remover & will quickly ruin the dash plastic if you get any on the plastic.

[Rangioran]

Hi Cap,

 

Thanks for the heads-up re squirting reservoir - appreciated!

[Rangioran]

Hi D.R.

 

Point taken re low fluid sensors, good tip on the kraft blade, thanks!

[PAS]

I have done mine twice and both times had a friend to assist. One that wont twist the bleed screws off when tightening! Take your time and be methodical.