R1150RT Footpeg lowering

[Rawed]

Has anyone found a way to lower the rider footpegs without investing a couple hundred dollars to see if they'll help. I'm at that "in between" leg length - with the seat on mid setting, I can reach the ground but not comfortably. On the low setting, I can reach the ground comfortably but my knees are too bent to be comfortable for long periods.

Any suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks

[BFish]

I installed Suburban Machinery peg lowering kit years ago. Quality product, easy install and it was perfect for me. Didn't mess with the shift lever.

[Tri750]

There was a product called a "Seat Jack" that worked great to tilt the nose of the sea up and give you "half a notch" spacing.

Not available anymore that I know of, here is a picture of it.

http://vanollefen.nl/seatjack.htm

 

It is 4 pieces of high density plastic (2 thicknesses) with longer bolts that you install under the front seat mount. (The part that holds the spring loaded adjuster)

You can ad 2 or four spacers, thin or thick .

One could make their own out of wood or Alu.

The spacers go between the frame and the adjuster brackets.

 

You could use flat washers instead, but that always made me cringe to see.

 

[Rawed]

I have the seat jacks and used them with the stock 'comfort' seat. I took them out when I upgraded to Sargent seats. Better on the bum but still have to leg length issue.

R

[Tri750]

This may be splitting hairs, but you can shave the ribs off the bottom of the round rubber seat bushings, clear silicon them in place of the rod and be half way (approx) between adjustments.

Your seat may rock a bit but not bad.

 

I think you may just get used to it being a bit high if you just don't want to spend the money on the peg lowering kit.

[Cap]

... with the seat on mid setting, I can reach the ground but not comfortably. On the low setting, I can reach the ground comfortably but my knees are too bent ...

 

I am tall, and have done both the peg lowering and the seat raising. And also a Sargent seat, with a sheepskin pad. So, I can speak to all of this. The seat-raising process is pretty easy with a piece of 3/16" aluminum stock, and some longer bolts, it takes only a few minutes to raise the seat. I raised the front of the seat mount only, to change the angle a bit, so that I didn't slide forward into the gas tank. A consequence of this mod is that the seat will rock forward and back, about a sixteenth of an inch. It is irritating, and easily remedied by wrapping many layers of electrical tape around the tang that projects to the rear of the seat. This is the best mod of all, in my opinion, because it fixes the tendency to slide forward in the seat.

 

I dropped the pegs about an inch using a part from Suburban Machinery. There is no requirement to modify the foot brake or the shift lever, but if you are trying to improve the ergonomics then you will not be happy unless you also lower the foot controls. The brake requires that you trim some threads from the adjustment screw. No big deal. Lowering the shifter takes some effort but does not require any modification. You remove the side plate and turn the adjuster about 6 turns. If you lower the shifter any more, it will bind on the slot in the side plate, and you won't be able to shift.

 

I have owned several motos for which I bought custom Russell Day-Long saddles. They are great seats, although I was always frustrated that it would take them 2-3 iterations to get the fit right. And the waiting time is long. I find that the Sargent seat fits me very well, and with the sheepskin pad it is just as comfortable as any of my Russells, and much less expensive. YMMV.

 

So, here's my concern with your situation: if the difference between the mid-height setting and the low-setting is a larger step than you need, then lowering footpegs will be too much for you. Why don't you start with the shim idea, and see how it feels? Then later, you can try a sheepskin pad on the low setting to obtain a small increment of increased seat height.