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2016 R1200RT Options


bmwdavid

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How important is central locking and the alarm? Dealer with the best pricing no longer has any fully loaded Bronze RT's. They do have 4 Bronze with every option except Central locking and alarm. Are these important enough to be a deal breaker? From what I understand these options cannot be added later.

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How important is central locking and the alarm? Dealer with the best pricing no longer has any fully loaded Bronze RT's. They do have 4 Bronze with every option except Central locking and alarm. Are these important enough to be a deal breaker? From what I understand these options cannot be added later.

 

Afternoon bmwdavid

 

That depends on:

 

Do YOU want them?

 

How long do you keep your motorcycles?-- Those options might make bike re-selling easier & appeal to more buyers.

 

Does the alarm lower your motorcycle insurance?--If so how much & for how long?

 

To me personally I wouldn't buy either option but I could care less about an alarm (unless that option significantly lowers my insurance cost)-- I seldom lock anything on my motorcycle & at times even leave my key in the ignition. Can't ever remember locking my panniers & probably only locked the top case a couple of times.

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It's all about you. I've set the alarm a few times but I could live without, I don't believe I get a discount on insurance if so too little to consider that as a factor. I really do like the central locking, if you don't get it and still want the BMW top case don't wast your money on the deluxe case in my option.

 

Jay

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I have all options but no alarm or central locking -- no interest in those myself and saved those costs. I like keyless ride since I never have to take my key out of my pocket so it's pretty hard to forget the key in the ignition and walk off.

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My 2015 RT happens to have the central locking and alarm and I do use them, but neither are options I would care about if the bike didn't have them (and, more importantly, the "deal" was right).

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I have a 2015 RT with many options but without central locking and alarm. I find that not having central locking is no big deal. The only time I lock my panniers is on a multi day ride. I can lock them pretty quick. Not having an alarm is not an issue either. My insurance does not give a discount for it anyway. All in all, those two options are not a big deal to be without..IMHO

 

Steve B.

 

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Well, I forgot that I had the alarm until I read your post. But I'm locking my bike constantly, and now that I have the Nav V it's only gotten more intense. There's no way I'd be without the central locking. If I had to lock and unlock my Multistrada bags like I'm doing now, I'd wear my fingers down to the second knuckle.

 

Me personally - not you - I'd cast a wider net, pay more, or wait for a 2017 (but then I'd pay the price on the colors, so maybe not).

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As others have said, it really depends on you! OTOH, let me point out one thing that others had not mentioned, and that is IF you will be planning on adding the large top-case WITH aux. LED brake light, then you MUST have the central locking option, otherwise the wiring harness under the seat will NOT have the connection for power to the top-case!

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When you say without the central locking there isn't power to the large top case, what is the power for? Lighted tail lights or power to charge an I-pod etc...?

To amplify what gordiet had already said, the new style large top box has an internal light that comes on when you open the lid. The connector also carries the locking circuit, so that the top box will lock with the activation of the central-lock (either via the handle bar button or remote). There are also two other harnesses inside the top box that will hook up to the aux. LED brake light that can be added to the top box, and the last one is generally unused on the RT, but I think that it is for the heated backrest that is perhaps available for the K1600?

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You can add the harness after the fact, but it isn't cheap. I hacked the central locking wires off and was left with just the round connector.

 

It powers the rear LED brake light I have installed, as well as an inside trunk light LED.

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How important is central locking and the alarm? Dealer with the best pricing no longer has any fully loaded Bronze RT's. They do have 4 Bronze with every option except Central locking and alarm. Are these important enough to be a deal breaker? From what I understand these options cannot be added later.

 

1. I've never heard of a BMWRT being stolen. They're not considered a joyride bike (like crotch rockets are) and there's no black market for the parts. Therefore, virtually no interest from thieves.

 

2. Central locking, while it can be convenient, is superfluous to me. If I'm off the bike, the key is in my hand and therefore opening up a case is easy. When I close the case the key comes out only in the locked position, so that's taken care of, and goes right into the ignition.

 

3. Each of the above is something that, while adding little in true value, has the hypothetical potential to fail. And if that happens outside of warranty, it's gonna co$$$t.

 

Your call. But you're sweating details that matter little, if at all. Get what you want and get down to the business of riding the hell out of it. Every day spent worrying is a day NOT spent riding.

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All things have the potential to fail but I don't see many of us using solid steel wheels to avoid any chance of a flat tire.

I agree with the thought that you may be worrying to much and riding to little.

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I have about 24k miles on my 2014. One option that I would like if I were to buy it all over again is the central locking. I commute on the RT and my preference is to keep the bags locked. I do use both bags some days and central locking would be a nice feature.

 

Alan

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I don't have central locking, shift assist, or keyless ignition. I would probably use central locking. Shift assist is a "nice" thing to think about having, but it isn't like driving an automatic so I can live without it.

 

I WOULD PAY MORE MONEY TO HAVE A BIKE WITHOUT KEYLESS IGNITION!!!!!

 

I do NOT trust it. I have cars with it. Don't care for it there either.

Edited by realshelby
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We can pretty much live without anything besides wheels and an engine. Then again, I've been clutching bikes and cars for 40+ years so I was skeptical of shift assist and even hill start. I thought cmon who needs those gimmicks. They've turned out to be more than "nice" things for me -- especially hill start loaded with two-up at an uphill stop light.

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I love my keyless ignition & central locking. If or when it breaks I'll just use the key. I've had keyless on several cars and my Concours and it never let me down over 7 years. BMW's system is simple & convenient to use. I could live without it but I like it a lot.

 

Shift assist is something I didn't care whether I had it or not. I did not even use it for the first 6000 miles. But I started using it regularly for the last 3000 miles and find it actually quite nice. I don't think I would ever order it as an option but it came with the bike. The only time I use hill hold is if I need to scratch my nose. :)

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I may end up choosing the 2016 without the two options because I cant find a deal on or find a bronze with every option. The whole story here is I purchased a 2016 Harley road glide ultra and even though it is comfortable it just doesn't run or ride like the bmw. I found a buyer and will take a loss of about $1300. Guess I am stressing because my mistake also cost me such a great deal I had on the fully loaded 16 RT that is now gone. I was able to get the 2016 Bronze Fully loaded in august for $22,500 out the door with the large top case and first service. Now the dealer wants $22,800 for the bike that has a msrp of $850 less and won't include the first service. Their reason is because they don't have many 2016 left and are no longer under any pressure to sell them. The whole experience is eating me up because of my foolish mistake. It took me buying the Harley to finally realize how good the RT is.

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I may end up choosing the 2016 without the two options because I cant find a deal on or find a bronze with every option. The whole story here is I purchased a 2016 Harley road glide ultra and even though it is comfortable it just doesn't run or ride like the bmw. I found a buyer and will take a loss of about $1300. Guess I am stressing because my mistake also cost me such a great deal I had on the fully loaded 16 RT that is now gone. I was able to get the 2016 Bronze Fully loaded in august for $22,500 out the door with the large top case and first service. Now the dealer wants $22,800 for the bike that has a msrp of $850 less and won't include the first service. Their reason is because they don't have many 2016 left and are no longer under any pressure to sell them. The whole experience is eating me up because of my foolish mistake. It took me buying the Harley to finally realize how good the RT is.

 

Afternoon bmwdavid

 

Don't beat yourself up too much as you would have always wondered in the back of your mind about the Harley if you hadn't tried one. (nothing wrong with a Harley it's just not the bike style for everyone)

 

At least now you will be positive that the BMW is the bike style for YOU.

 

It might not be as costly of a mistake as you think as BMW has .9% financing now. I just bought a new BMW recently & even though I usually pay cash for a new bike it was actually cheaper for me to take the .9% financing & leave my money where it is as it was yielding way more than .9%.

 

 

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I have a 2016 bronze with central locking and alarm.

 

The best thing about it is the lighted topbox - very convenient alternative to poking around one-handed at night with the phone light in the other hand. Otherwise it's on the "nice to have" list, not a must.

 

 

 

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...I just bought a new BMW recently & even though I usually pay cash for a new bike it was actually cheaper for me to take the .9% financing & leave my money where it is as it was yielding way more than .9%.

 

 

+1

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I may end up choosing the 2016 without the two options because I cant find a deal on or find a bronze with every option. The whole story here is I purchased a 2016 Harley road glide ultra and even though it is comfortable it just doesn't run or ride like the bmw. I found a buyer and will take a loss of about $1300. Guess I am stressing because my mistake also cost me such a great deal I had on the fully loaded 16 RT that is now gone. I was able to get the 2016 Bronze Fully loaded in august for $22,500 out the door with the large top case and first service. Now the dealer wants $22,800 for the bike that has a msrp of $850 less and won't include the first service. Their reason is because they don't have many 2016 left and are no longer under any pressure to sell them. The whole experience is eating me up because of my foolish mistake. It took me buying the Harley to finally realize how good the RT is.

 

Hi.

I don't know what this seller is smoking but I suggest not partaking from it.

The local BMW dealership has already received the first 2017 boxers (RT's) and will receive the first 2017 GS's (ordinary and Adventure) in October, so they are under tremendous pressure to shift their remaining stocks of 2016 models. Add to this BMW "misjudged" the market and saddled them with more bikes (especially ordinary GS's) than they could sell in face of a saturated market and you get... major discounts!

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The bike has a msrp of $22,660. They are selling the large standard top case without light or central locking for $800. $22,660 + $800 =$23,460. With tax it would be $24,950.

 

They want out the door price of $22,800 including 6.035 Ct tax, Title, Reg, doc fee etc... Is this too high?

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"Too High" depends a lot on you. I live in ND. There are no dealers in my state. Sturgis SD is the closest at about 2225 miles. Next closest is in Minnesota at 300 miles.

 

I would also keep on eye out for 1=2 year old lightly used RT's. Of course for those, I was looking at a typical 1000 mile ride.

 

So for me, I had to figure my time to travel out to look at a used bike and take a chance it's what I want. So my time was worth money.

 

So you have to ask yourself what will it cost you to shop around? For me, Sturgis just so happened to have a 5 month old RT, with every option except central locking and alarm, with 5k miles, and 5k off new. And I just so happened to be taking a summer vacation to the Black Hills with the family. The stars aligned and after riding Honda for 20 years, I'm finally riding the RT I've always lusted over.

 

If the RT is what you truly want, to fret the $100's. Get it and go ride. You'll quickly forget about it...

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The bike has a msrp of $22,660. They are selling the large standard top case without light or central locking for $800. $22,660 + $800 =$23,460. With tax it would be $24,950.

 

They want out the door price of $22,800 including 6.035 Ct tax, Title, Reg, doc fee etc... Is this too high?

 

Evening bmwdavid

 

Maybe & maybe not, not that many left & they might not have what you want.

 

I usually call around to other dealers (& even call dealers in other states) with the EXACT color & options that I am looking for. I see how close other dealers can get option & color wise & their out the door price, plus if they have airport pickup if I fly in & ride it home. (have done that few times)

 

If I can get the same bike cheaper at another dealer I take that price & full deal then go back to my local dealer(s) & give them a fair chance to match it. In most cases they can (or will) get close enough to make buying local the choice for me.

 

I'm not going to fly out of state & ride one home for a $200.00 savings, but will do it for a $1000.00 savings. If my local dealer can get within $200-$300 that is usually close enough to buy local.

 

I have also bargained on accessories & other options at dealer cost thrown in. So if I pay $500 more for the bike but save $300-$400 on future accessories it is a win for me & they sell me a bike (we both win)

 

Basically I'm saying DO YOUR HOMEWORK first THEN go bargain price with your local dealer (if they want to sell YOU a bike they might deal with you a bit, my dealer usually will anyhow)-- They probably won't deal very much if you don't have a firm commitment from a competing dealer though.

 

Now a days, most BMW dealers have their current stock listed on-line so shop around on-line & find what you can live with then call them up & get a delivered OTD price. (you might find that your current local deal is not to bad, or might find they are trying to take advantage of you-- in any case it gives you some bargaining power)

 

 

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The bike has a msrp of $22,660. They are selling the large standard top case without light or central locking for $800. $22,660 + $800 =$23,460. With tax it would be $24,950.

 

They want out the door price of $22,800 including 6.035 Ct tax, Title, Reg, doc fee etc... Is this too high?

 

So to get to the $22,800 from $24,950 it seems they're giving you a $700 discount off MSRP and applying BMW's $1,450 incentive?

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Morning bmwdavid

 

Not sure it is still in effect but BMW had a product recommendation discount in effect that a new buyer got an additional discount if he recommended or was recommended as new buyer. (I didn't do that but when I bought my last BMW but it's discount was figured in as if I had) --you might ask about this from your salesman.

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bmwdavid,

There is also a $400 BMW motorcycle discount available to members of the BMW Car Club of America. Anyone can join online for a $48 fee, then receive the rebate. Here's the web site:

 

https://myaccount.bmwcca.org/PortalTools/NewUser/EmailCheck.cfm

 

 

My understanding is that you have to have been a CCA member for one year before being eligible for vehicle rebates/discounts.

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bmwdavid,

There is also a $400 BMW motorcycle discount available to members of the BMW Car Club of America. Anyone can join online for a $48 fee, then receive the rebate. Here's the web site:

 

https://myaccount.bmwcca.org/PortalTools/NewUser/EmailCheck.cfm

 

 

My understanding is that you have to have been a CCA member for one year before being eligible for vehicle rebates/discounts.

 

Looking at the CCA website under Benefits for Members, Motorcycle rebates, it says only " Recipient must be an active BMW Car Club of America member at the time of the motorcycle delivery." Discount varies by model, R-series is $400.

 

More details at https://www.bmwcca.org/motorcycle-rebate or on the websites of BMW Motorrad USA dealers. My dealer lists it under OEM promotions. Expires December, 2016.

 

The car rebate program does have a one year minimum, but the rebate seems to go through BMW CCA. The motorcycle rebate seems to be through the dealer, direct from BMW Motorrad USA.

Edited by lkraus
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bmwdavid,

There is also a $400 BMW motorcycle discount available to members of the BMW Car Club of America. Anyone can join online for a $48 fee, then receive the rebate. Here's the web site:

 

https://myaccount.bmwcca.org/PortalTools/NewUser/EmailCheck.cfm

 

 

My understanding is that you have to have been a CCA member for one year before being eligible for vehicle rebates/discounts.

 

Looking at the CCA website under Benefits for Members, Motorcycle rebates, it says only " Recipient must be an active BMW Car Club of America member at the time of the motorcycle delivery." Discount varies by model, R-series is $400.

 

More details at https://www.bmwcca.org/motorcycle-rebate or on the websites of BMW Motorrad USA dealers. My dealer lists it under OEM promotions. Expires December, 2016.

 

The car rebate program does have a one year minimum, but the rebate seems to go through BMW CCA. The motorcycle rebate seems to be through the dealer, direct from BMW Motorrad USA.

 

In that case $48 will get you a quick $400.

 

Over the years I've gotten two CCA car rebates (for CPO cars) and one motorcycle rebate. Even if I hadn't, their excellent monthly Roundel magazine is worth it to me. You're correct that I got car rebates as mailed checks after submitting applications; my motorcycle dealer must have gotten the CCA rebate directly since it was an extra line-item credit on the bike invoice. I just had to show a current membership card.

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As for the BMW Car Club incentive, I took advantage of it in November of last year, joining at the time I was negotiating my deal for a new GSA. I checked BMW Motorrad USA's website yesterday, and I see that the wording in the fine print has been changed. It now adds this condition:

 

"One year membership required for eligibility."

 

This condition was not there the last time I checked, and I'd suggest it's open to interpretation. Does it mean one would have to have been a member of BMW CCA for at least a year, or does it mean you have to have signed up for at least a one-year membership? I suspect it's the former, as I don't think it's possible to get a membership for less than one year.

 

Here's the link to BMW Motorrad USA's website. Look under "Promotions". It lists all available incentives, the applicable conditions, and which ones can be stacked/combined.

 

http://www.bmwmotorcycles.com/us/en/index.html

Edited by marcopolo
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"Recipient must be an active BMW Car Club of America member for a period of greater than 1 year at the time of motorcycle delivery."

 

Hmmm... I'm pretty sure that line was not there yesterday.

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"Recipient must be an active BMW Car Club of America member for a period of greater than 1 year at the time of motorcycle delivery."

 

Hmmm... I'm pretty sure that line was not there yesterday.

 

It clearly is a recent change. A number of people, like me, reported being able to take advantage of the incentive without being a BMW CCA member for a year. When I did it, that condition was not there on BMW's website.

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I cannot say how it is done internally by BMW. Obviously they are trying to plug a loophole. But I can tell you that rebates, similar to this and many others, can be claimed by a Ford dealer on the buyers paperwork. Yes, you get the rebate, but if the dealer made a mistake in claiming it they are liable. That can really hurt them, if you knew what profit margins are you would see that. There are ways to double check compatibility, but if a dealer had just given this rebate a week ago and BMW allowed it they might not double check. Might be interesting to follow.

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"Recipient must be an active BMW Car Club of America member for a period of greater than 1 year at the time of motorcycle delivery."

 

Hmmm... I'm pretty sure that line was not there yesterday.

 

It clearly is a recent change. A number of people, like me, reported being able to take advantage of the incentive without being a BMW CCA member for a year. When I did it, that condition was not there on BMW's website.

 

You lucked out on their fuzzy qualifications. For my July '16 RT purchase my m/c dealer xeroxed my CCA card -- which lists a "Member Since..." date. Not sure where the dealer actually gets the rebate reimbursement from -- Motorrad USA?

 

Several local BMW car dealers offer 15-20% CCA discounts on service parts, so over 12 years, in total it's saved me probably a couple of thousand dollars on purchases I would have made regardless. And again I like the magazine.

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"Recipient must be an active BMW Car Club of America member for a period of greater than 1 year at the time of motorcycle delivery."

 

Hmmm... I'm pretty sure that line was not there yesterday.

 

Still isn't on my dealers site: Motohio

 

Nor on the BMW CCA site: BMWCCA

 

:dontknow:

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"Recipient must be an active BMW Car Club of America member for a period of greater than 1 year at the time of motorcycle delivery."

 

Hmmm... I'm pretty sure that line was not there yesterday.

 

Still isn't on my dealers site: Motohio

 

 

 

Nor on the BMW CCA site: BMWCCA

 

:dontknow:

I'm sure the only one that really counts is BMW Motorrad USA's. When I negotiated my deal last fall, the sales rep at the dealer checked Motorrad's website to confirm the conditions that applied at the time. As I understand it, the dealer gets the incentive "reimbursed" from BMW, hence the dealer copying the membership card etc. Can't imagine anyone else picking it up, though I wonder if BMW CCA throws a couple of bucks into the pot.

Edited by marcopolo
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bmwdavid,

There is also a $400 BMW motorcycle discount available to members of the BMW Car Club of America. Anyone can join online for a $48 fee, then receive the rebate. Here's the web site:

 

https://myaccount.bmwcca.org/PortalTools/NewUser/EmailCheck.cfm

 

 

My understanding is that you have to have been a CCA member for one year before being eligible for vehicle rebates/discounts.

 

I noticed the same thing on the BMW website but some of the dealer pages still say you just need to be an active member.

 

That was the one rebate I was counting on for a 2017 RT.

Does anyone know if there is a supplier discount ? We do work for the BMW car plant in South Carolina

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bmwdavid,

There is also a $400 BMW motorcycle discount available to members of the BMW Car Club of America. Anyone can join online for a $48 fee, then receive the rebate. Here's the web site:

 

https://myaccount.bmwcca.org/PortalTools/NewUser/EmailCheck.cfm

 

 

My understanding is that you have to have been a CCA member for one year before being eligible for vehicle rebates/discounts.

 

I noticed the same thing on the BMW website but some of the dealer pages still say you just need to be an active member.

 

That was the one rebate I was counting on for a 2017 RT.

Does anyone know if there is a supplier discount ? We do work for the BMW car plant in South Carolina

 

It's easy to check on any, and all, BMW incentives. Just go to BMW Motorrad USA's homepage, and click on "Promotions" (at the top). There all there.

 

http://www.bmwmotorcycles.com/us/en/index.html

 

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I am honestly suprised BMW Motorrad, in what is their first or second market by importance, adopt such a ridiculous attitude to discounts.

 

My brother just bought a GS-Adventure. Like me he's not a member of anything. The salesman simply told there was a certain discount if he financed the purchase and another considerably larger one if he paid cash and that this only applied to 2016 models.

And this was before haggling.

 

In short as long as you can pay for the bike, one way or the other, and you pick a leftover 2016 model you'll get a discount.

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In short as long as you can pay for the bike, one way or the other, and you pick a leftover 2016 model you'll get a discount.

 

Morning Kakugo

 

But the big question is (at least in USA here) will you get ALL the discounts that you at entitled to?

 

Some you have to ask for, some come automatically with the bike deal, & others you (the buyer) have to fit a certain category.

 

My local dealers will usually give all the discounts that THEY KNOW are available but just because they are a BMW dealer doesn't mean that they know about all available deals (especially if a 3rd party incentive is involved).

 

A couple of new motorcycles ago I bought a new BMW & researched all the incentive deals that I could find, the dealer salesman found me another as well as significant reduction in accessory prices.

 

I was just about to sign when a friend that I know happed to come into the dealer-- he just simply asked me out of the blue if I got the first time buyer discount-- I told him I couldn't as it wasn't my first BMW motorcycle bought new.

 

He said what about your wife-- I said A'ha --so long story short, my wife just bought a new BMW.

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...He said what about your wife-- I said A'ha --so long story short, my wife just bought a new BMW.

 

So how does she like it? ...

 

Morning John

 

That is how DID she like it as it is long gone now.

 

I'm not real sure as I always rode it for her as it was too tall for her to ride it herself.

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