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99 rt starting problem


Kenny Haynes

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Kenny Haynes

My 99 has about 73k on it and has an intermittent starting issue.

 

It starts good when it is cold and when just restarting after fueling when it hasn't been off long. However, when it has been off for a while it sometimes takes multiple attempts and a long time turning over to fire. It will increase rpm on the starter with a bit of throttle and eventually fire if the battery is good.

 

For example, if I ride it to work it is often difficult to start at lunch or at the end of the day. I've been chasing the problem a while, originally thinking it was turning over way too slow.

 

The starter died and it improved a bit after replacement but still does it. Seems worse when it is warmer weather.

 

I've done the following so far.

1. new starter

2. valves and tb synch

3. new plugs and wires

4. new fuel filter

5. hall sensor is low mileage.

6. Battery is a fresh odyssey.

 

Bike runs as always once it is running. I rode it about 700 miles in the last couple days and it ran great, but the starter problem occurred a few times on the trip.

 

Feels fuel related. Perhaps one of the lines in the tank is leaking so the pressure is not what it should be.

 

Any other thoughts from the experts? THANKS

 

 

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roger 04 rt

Just a couple more questions. Do you have any add-on fueling products like techlusion or boosterplug?

 

Also, what coding plug is installed? Should be yellow. Is your O2 sensor still connected?

 

When the bike is fully warmed up, if you bring the fast idle lever to the detent position, what is the idle speed? What is your idle soles with no fast idle.

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Morning Kenny

 

That problem is probably going to take some trying different things to get t othe root of it.

 

It might be as simple as air bubbles in the fuel system or even a fuel adaptive issue, or ?????

 

First thing to try is simply turning the key on & allowing the fuel pump to pressurize the system then key off & wait a short while then key back on again (do this a about 3 times). If it then starts better suspect a problem with air bubbles in the fuel system or a pump pressurization problem.

 

If the above doesn't change things then remove fuse #5 after shutting the engine off then reinstall fuse 5 just before your re-start. If that changes things then suspect a fueling adaptive problem. (maybe a bad o2 sensor or an incorrect or removed CCP)

 

If nothing found in the above then you might have to disconnect the fuel return hose & see if you are getting fuel return flow when attempting to re-start. (maybe use a piece of clear hose in the fuel return so you can view it at every troublesome re-start).

 

Otherwise look for a good bluish colored spark at restart & remove spark plugs to inspect for oil fouling at re-start.

 

Also try opening the fuel cap at shutdown to allow air in to see if your might have a tank venting problem causing negative pressure at shutdown cool down.

 

Otherwise you might have to monitor the engine sensors (like oil temp & TPS) during the re-start & compare a good re-start to a bad re-start.

 

Even then don't discount the HES as the culprit.

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Kenny Haynes

Thanks for the suggestions. I've had some venting issues previously, enough to cause the fuel gauge tube to warp and cause sticking on the float. Been a while, but I've never removed the canister/plumbing.

I'll give some of these a try. Doesn't do it every time either so it has been a bit hard to duplicate.

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Thanks for the suggestions. I've had some venting issues previously, enough to cause the fuel gauge tube to warp and cause sticking on the float. Been a while, but I've never removed the canister/plumbing.

I'll give some of these a try. Doesn't do it every time either so it has been a bit hard to duplicate.

 

Afternoon Kenny

 

The first thing you need to do, get your fuel tank venting properly.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Kenny Haynes

Update:

I tried cycling the ignition/pump a few times today prior to starting and it fired right up every time after sitting for a while. I'm pretty sure it is related to pressurization. Think I'll replace the hoses and clamps inside the tank. They are original and suspect.

Also removed the cannister. Should have done that some time ago.

Roger, no add on fueling mods. When it is warm the fast idle lever will take it up to about 1200 rpm. Regular idle is around 1000 or a tad less. I'm not sure what plug is on there, but the 02 sensor is still plugged up.

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roger 04 rt

Kenny, When you open the electrical box under the seat, you should see a Yellow plug in the spot shown in the photo (courtesy dirt rider).

 

CCPjumperpinsnumbered_zpsbfb87ad3.jpg

 

Your bike should idle at around 1100 warm with no fast idle lever, and at least 2000 with the fast idle lever in the mid detent position.

 

Before opening the tank, you can measure the amount of fuel returning to the tank at idle. If it is 2 liters per minute there is no reason to open the tank.

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