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shift lever adjustment

Bob Boro

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I installed a pair of lowered foot pegs from Suburban Machinery. I'd like to try lowering my shift lever on my 2003 R1150RT. It's a little too high. Manageable but would be nicer to lower the lever a little bit. I've already adjusted the brake foot lever. Anybody try doing this? I'd need to remove the left foot peg plate and adjust the linkage so the shift lever would sit a little bit lower. Any problems encountered in doing this? Any advice before I begin? Thanks!!

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Evening Bob


Maybe, how much room does your shift lever have in the side plate slot with the shifter pushed all the way down?


Suburban Machinery used to make a lower shift lever (I think it moved it forward a bit also) but as far as I know those haven't been available for a while now. (maybe E-Bay)


Suburban Machinery Inc.

37127 Ben Hur Ave.

Willoughby, Ohio 44094

Phone 1-800-297-1341


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DR is right, barring attacking it with a grinder, the side plate is the limiting factor to shifter travel. I have the opposite problem — the shift lever is too low.


There should be 2 positions for the shifter: the higher position will move it down and the lower position will move it up — but only within the travel limits defined by the side plate. You might be able to improve on your situation by putting an oversized piece of rubber over the shifter.

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I was able to shift mine down some. I didn't move it much, as I was just looking for a little better feel on the top of my boot. But, I just looked again and I still have some room to move it further down without it hitting the plate. I would guess you probably have at least a 1/2" play in there before the plate becomes an issue. Not sure if this is enough with the lowered foot pegs.


No problems actually doing it. You just separate the ball/socket joint, loosen the nut then thread it in or out.

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No problems actually doing it. You just separate the ball/socket joint, loosen the nut then thread it in or out.

If I remember right, up is limited by the length of the linkage; at some point it will either not have enough thread left for a reliable connection, or will run up against the base.




Also, be very careful with the little clips that secure the ball sockets. I once spent an hour looking for one, before finding it embedded in the sole of my shoe.


Final note: If you're going to take off the shift assembly, before doing so check for side to side movement of the shift lever. It pivots on a plastic bushing, which gets sloppy with age. My rather than replace the plastic bushing, my solution was to cut a very thin old feeler gauge so that it was just the length of the inner circumference of the bushing. Polish the shaft, grease, and reassemble — zero side to side movement, more precise shifting. Depending on the amount of wear, you may need to experiment with difference thicknesses of feeler gauge. I would have preferred to use brass, but couldn't find any thin enough. I had it apart yesterday, no galling from steel-on-steel contact and no side play after ~5 years of use.


And don't forget to secure the pivot bolt with a tiny bit of Loctite — DAMHIK.

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Cut up 2 shifters and had a welder friend match the diagonal drop of the Suburban lowering block - did similar on the brake side - was well worth the mods DCP_1111.jpg

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Brake side I fashioned a crude, but functional, extension out of a scrap piece of aluminum DCP_1113.jpg and replaced the "curb feelers" with teflon buffers as I tend to drag the pegs a bit playin in the mountains

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