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Rear brake calliper bolt


Alba

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Annoyed with myself big style, I was not focusing this evening and I managed to strip the head on one of the rear calliper bolts while trying to remove the calliper for some cleaning.

 

My bike is a 02 1150RT, does anyone one know the bolt reference and where I could source one in the UK?

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Hi,

I would have a look on real OEM.com. You should find the part number on there and then get one mail ordered from your local dealer. At least that way the spec and finish match your other bolts.

 

Mike

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Struggling to remove the stripped bolt on the rear calliper. I have a screw extractor which is secure in the bolt head but my drill can not apply enough torque. I tried a set of mole grips but they slip. I have used plenty of anti-seize to no effect.

 

Can you suggest any garage tricks to try?

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Morning Alba

 

We need more info (or better yet a picture) of the stripped bolt to better guide you.

 

First thing-- explain stripped bolt? Do you mean frozen/stuck bolt?

 

Are you talking about a rounded off bolt head or rounded out bolt socket?

 

In any case, be REAL CAREFUL in using a screw extractor as those things are known to expand a bolt making it more difficult to remove (or snapping off)

 

One thing to keep in mind-- if a bolt was stuck too tight to remove with a wrench/socket then it is WAY too tight to remove using a screw extractor.

 

Tell us IN DEATIL what you have going on there.

 

 

 

 

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Guest Kakugo

Heat the bolt with a heat gun at least 90°C, then apply a bag of ice cubes, tap with a rubber mallet, try undoing the bolt. Repeat as many times as needed.

 

If possible use a cheater bar instead of a drill.

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thanks for the super quick responses :thumbsup:

 

The photo below shows the internal of the bolt has been rounded

DSCF4468_zpsbgalfm8e.jpg

 

below is the screw extractor I have used;

 

DSCF4474_zpskkkwyxzz.jpg

 

 

 

It become rounded as I did not concentrate and ensure the torque head was seated properly, not sure how tight it is in.

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Afternoon Alba

 

That bolt can be a real pain to remove.

 

Again I will caution you to BE VERY CAREFUL in using

that screw extractor as those things are harder than

snails nuts & break off easily (that then makes a

difficult job so much more difficult)

 

My usual way of removing a stripped-out socket head

bolt is to-- first weld a washer to the bolt through

the center hole, then tack weld a nut to the washer.

Then allow to cool for about 2 minutes--- at that

time the welding heat & that welded on washer/nut

usually allows the bolt to be backed out without

problems.

 

The other option is to find (or grind) a torx or allen

wrench to be a force/drive fit into the bolt head. Then

use a small pin-point torch & heat the bolt head as hot as possible,

then drive the torx/allen driver into the bolt

head with a hammer then attempt to remove it.

 

The washer/nut welding usually works best though.

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cheers dirtrider.

 

Coming week its off to the local garage to get it off, welding is out of my league.

 

Is there any issue removing the sensor (not sure what it is called) which is plugged into the final drive? Don't want the cable with heat damage.

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Afternoon Alba

 

No problem removing the wheel speed sensor. If it's stuck just be careful removing it.

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The head of that bolt doesn't look totally stripped.

Are you using the correct size Torx socket on it?

You haven't accidentally been using an hex (Allen) socket on it have you?

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szurszewski

I was thinking the same - I find that sometimes a smaller size torx bit will "seem" to fit just about right...until you try a larger size and realize it fits better - with smaller fasteners I've been two or more sizes too small and thought I had the right one (works ok for low torque fasteners, but will really cause problems if you try them on something that's tight).

 

 

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Hi Alba.

I have had a close look at that picture again. It looks like an undersize Torx bit was used.

Get a good fitting torx bit and drive it firmly onto the bolt with a good thwack. While trying to unscrew it, keep firm inward pressure to reduce the chance of it moving out.

If the correct size Torx fails, try driving in a good quality hex bit.

The suggestion of heat around the housing is a good point, along with a good application of penetrating fluid.

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Thanks for all the feedback and tips.

 

I tried the significant pressure with the correct size, would not grip at all. This has got me and its off to the garage on Friday. My own stupidity for not focusing on what I was doing initially. Should be a 15min job for them.

 

Itching to get some miles under the belt, dry cold weather at the moment the way I like it, feels like the world I waking up :)

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