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Hall sensor wiring replace


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Decided to do some preventive maintenance on the '93 R1100RSL and replace the Hall sensor wiring. After removing the sensor assembly I am pretty sure it is only necessary to replace the cable from the 5 pin connector to the point where the 4 splices are located. the splices are at the point where the shielded cable connects to the individual sensor pigtails. The short sensor pigtails are not shielded and have a different kind of insulation than the shielded cable harness. It would be not much fun to attempt to replace wiring right to each sensor and I assume not necessary?

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As Stan pointed out you are correct on the wiring at the sensor end.


In case you haven't already seen it there is a thread in the How to Where section:




I added some suggestions that will make the job much easier.

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For anybody that's interested in doing the cable to the HES I have 4' of cable left over and will send two people 2' each for free just send me a PM with your address. The cable I have came from McMaster-Carr and is nice stuff and is shielded cable so no need to pull individual wires through existing wire shield.


Actually, since I seldom log onto this site better to send me an e-mail at: jammessw@hotmail.com

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  • 4 months later...

Old thread I know but I decided to do the re-wiring of the HES on my 98 R1100R as I am at the mileage that the collective says is the right time to do it (72,000). I am going to follow eddd's advice about the actual wiring as it seems much more practical. I do have to say that I did have to insert a metal rod into the the flywheel to hold the engine in place. (The screwdriver in my BMW toolkit worked perfectly!) I could not loosen the bolt on the crankshaft pulley with the engine in gear, the rear wheel on the ground and my wife standing on the rear brake. No problema with the screwdriver blade! I will be working on this among the other 72,000 mile maintenance requirements this week.

eddd all I had to do to release the 5 pin connector was squeeze the release clips inside the dirty, stiff plastic shield. It came apart easily. Hope the rest of the job goes as well.

I really appreciate all the advice from everyone who has done all this stuff before me.

I do have the proper cable ordered from McMaster-Carr.

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I'll probably get some "stuff" over this one. I placed my breaker bar and socket on the bolt and rotated the bar up to the frame and just "bumped" the key. Came loose with no effort on my part.

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I have a HES for sale in the classified section of this board. It's been rewired with the correct wire and came out of a running bike.



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One more pesky question about HES wiring. With the McMaster-Carr cable # 8219K56 that has the wire shielding do I not have to be concerned about the bare shield wire inside the original HES cable? (The 5th pin on the connector)


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While there is no question that getting the proper wire from McMaster Carr and replacing it as referred to above is the right way to go... A while back I washed the bike and went to fill the tank preparatory to a long trip with buddies the next morning. Two blocks from home it died and with the recent wash I suspected the HES wiring, thanks to the information on this site.


Having neither the right wire on hand, nor the time to wait for it to come through the post I pulled the wiring and sensor from the bike and sure enough, the insulation was powder, and shorted near the cable retainer up by the alternator.


What I did have on hand was lots of shrink wrap tubing in a variety of sizes. Necessity being the mother of all kludges, I removed the pins from the connector under the tank and slipped 1/8" shrink wrap over each wire, heated them, then wrapped all that in larger shrink wrap and shrunk that down on the wire bundle. I reassembled it (with the pesky cable retainer loosened and it worked like a charm.


Sadly or happily, depending on your perspective, it is still working 10 years and over 120K miles later. I'm not recommending this repair as an alternative to the right way, but when you're on the road and the HES fails, it's easy to get shrink wrap in nearly any town, and an easy repair with the tools you either normally carry or can get cheap locally. It's durability is impressive too, outlasting the factory assembly by 2:1 so far.


Just something to keep in the back of your mind if it comes up on the road.

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I will bear that in mind. It may come down to a version of your fix. Glad it worked for you and thanks for the input!

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