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RE: Butt Connector or Solder


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Question first...then scenario below.


I need to splice in a new connector and wiring on my heated front seat on 2014 R1200RT. The wire looks to be 24ga and maybe slightly smaller. Is it better conductivity to solder and use shrink tube or just crimp with butt connector. I have room to do either one. I'm concerned for the current flow through that small wire(s) if it might have an effect if soldered versus butt connection. Thanks in advance. See stupid reason why below.





As some of us have discovered if your seat slips out of your hand when you take it off and before you can disconnect the wires to the heated seat...it yanks the wires out. I have tried everything to find that connector on the seat to replace it. My dealer has ordered 3 different things including asking the motherland how to get that connector, and no luck. Last week we took the seat off of a 2016 1600GT to see if it had a part number. They changed the entire cable set up to something that is much better than on my 2014 RT. It won't fit mine, but it does have the right connector with wires attached....so I ordered one and plan to cut it and splice it. BMW's final answer is we cant get the connector so you have to buy a new seat. That wouldn't be terrible if I hadn't already had it changed to a Russell.


I have checked other leads from this site like Amp, tyco, etc. No luck finding the exact connector........So be very careful when you remove your front seat because if it slips out of your hand and yanks the wires loose, you can buy this very special cable for $65 and cut and splice it in versus getting a $.50 connector and doing it the right way.

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I have been very impressed with Posi-Taps, but in your situation, I would probably solder and heatshrink. I have used Posi-Taps on several projects lately, and they make splicing wires so easy! The problem is, I haven't found them offered in retail outlets...only from their website. Very cool connectors though.


We all might consider attaching a safety wire to the seat, so if you drop it it won't fall far enough to rip out the wire.



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There is nothing sacred about the original connector. I'd consider just changing the connector to something that simply disconnects if you accidentally drop the seat. There has to be something that is tight enough to resist normal bike vibrations, yet loose enough that it disconnects before ripping the wire out. Maybe the coax connectors used for heated jackets and vests? Or solder in a couple feet of wire so the seat reaches the ground before the connector is stressed.

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Evening David


I simply hate butt connectors so (Personally) never use those, plus they make it look like Bubba did the job.


You can solder as that is better than a butt connector.


My personal favorite is splice clip then solder the splice clip then cover with heat shrink--(this is what we use at work for best connection & least likely to cause future issues or resistance issues)


You can make a splice clip by cutting the winged end from a terminal.



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Hey DR...thanks...just the advice I was looking for. I probably have a 1000 terminal connectors like that and can clip,clamp,solder, and heat shrink. Thanks for advice. Was concerned about loss or the BMW computer sensing some resistance or load variation.


Krauss...agree. I am going to extend the wire some, but still concerned with loss...so as someone else suggested, I am going to put a tether on it like we use to use on our mirrors so it can never stretch the wires again.


Out to the garage I go!


Thanks all....

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DRs method is fine, but so too are good quality solder and twist joints.

The key is good mechanical contact (hook joint or twist), good soldering technique (ie, good heat to allow solder to flow, but not allowing the solder to 'wick' too far along the conductors as this generates stiffness and leads to potential fractures).

So, good firm twists, nice and compact, a quick, but good solder application, and then an insulating cover. Try to make any joint in an area where there will be good support and little flexation.



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Thanks for that info on nasa standard splice I will use that in the future.


On the seat connector I would solder in a new connector , I think the extra wire option or a connector that will unplug like a powerlet would be a great option. I have tugged on those wires so many times I am waiting for mine to break.

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